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rizzuh
Jun 6, 2007, 4:50 PM
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Hey;
I'm working on a few routes that look like they haven't been climbed in years... cracks and edges are caked up with dirt/mud. Figure I'll use a rest day to go up and clean'em off... so what would you recommend as the best plan of attack? Toothbrush, wire toothbrush, bbq grill brush, etc? Sounds like a dumb question but the holds are really small and friction is minimal; wasn't sure if a big wire brush would reduce my odds.
Thanks,
-Nic from San Diego
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summerprophet
Jun 6, 2007, 4:57 PM
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Go get a large wire brush, the best ones I have found have a square wooden handle and are about 10 inches long. The bristles at the tip are going to wear out fast, so a saw is handy to cut the tip off.
Also recommended are good gloves, glasses and a dustmask if is is windy at all.
Good luck, and a preemptive thanks for all your hard work.
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mturner
Jun 6, 2007, 5:02 PM
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summerprophet wrote: Go get a large wire brush, the best ones I have found have a square wooden handle and are about 10 inches long. The bristles at the tip are going to wear out fast, so a saw is handy to cut the tip off. Also recommended are good gloves, glasses and a dustmask if is is windy at all. Good luck, and a preemptive thanks for all your hard work.
I hope you're not serious. Wire brushes will wear the holds away. Use one of those toilet or dish brushes with heavy plastic bristles. Cut them down if they are too long to make them stiffer and use water on an off day of climbing, but you might as well use a sand blaster if you're going to use a wire brush.
(This post was edited by mturner on Jun 6, 2007, 7:33 PM)
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caughtinside
Jun 6, 2007, 5:05 PM
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ditto the NO wire brush bit. It can be appropriate in some places, but often times you will damage the rock. Use a hard plastic bristled brush.
A toothbrush is generally not helpful for brushing off anything but a few small holds/chalk.
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codhands
Jun 6, 2007, 5:34 PM
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Opiate is pretty good, but I prefer Undertow.
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wonder1978
Jun 6, 2007, 5:38 PM
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I think it depends,
What kind of rock, how dirty is it?
If you're going to start cleaning a whole route that needs thorough brushing with a toothbrush or toilet brush, well you're going to be brushing till kingdom come.
Might as well do a first run with a wire brush. The only thing is to use it intelligently. It's rock after all, you'll notice if you're making significant damage.
Don't brush the holds away is sorta no brainer.
If it's solid granite a wire brush (or sandblast for that matter) in small dose won't do much harm.
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diebetes
Jun 6, 2007, 5:53 PM
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I don't see what damage a wire brush would do that a person CLIMBING ON THE ROCK wouldn't do, except maybe on sandstone, where I could see it taking some gription away. If it's hard rock, go for the wire.
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caughtinside
Jun 6, 2007, 6:00 PM
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if it's hard rock, the wire brush will polish it and make it slick. Sure, if it gets climbed enough this will happen too, but why accelerate it if you don't need to?
If it's softer rock, you will damage the holds.
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mushroomsamba
Jun 6, 2007, 6:56 PM
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I forget what issue it was of climbing that had an idea for using one of the pesticide sprayers filled with water. "one of the hand pump ones that sprays like 20+feet under pressure"
I used it for cleaning a few boulders, and it works well.
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diebetes
Jun 6, 2007, 7:07 PM
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I've never seen a wire brush polish hard rock when used long enough to clean the rock. ever.
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caughtinside
Jun 6, 2007, 7:13 PM
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diebetes wrote: I've never seen a wire brush polish hard rock when used long enough to clean the rock. ever.
If you are just giving it a general brush down, sure. but if you are working on cleaning out a crimp, or even a jug, I've seen it.
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socalbolter
Jun 6, 2007, 7:50 PM
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diebetes wrote: I've never seen a wire brush polish hard rock when used long enough to clean the rock. ever.
Seen it many times. Even on hard granite or basalt, it simply shouldn't be done.
If there is as lot of dirt caked on the holds the easiest thing is to take a screwdriver and give the edge a quick drag to knock most of the dirt off. Then hit it with a nylon (toothbrush or larger) brush.
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diebetes
Jun 6, 2007, 7:51 PM
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I don't think that qualifies as "hard" rock then.
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8flood8
Jun 6, 2007, 9:47 PM
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I also prefer Undertow... hence my profile name...
i must say though the evolution of the lyrics and music calls me to the later albums; however they just don't
ROCK quite as hard as the first 3.
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gunkiemike
Jun 6, 2007, 11:25 PM
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8flood8 wrote: I also prefer Undertow... hence my profile name... i must say though the evolution of the lyrics and music calls me to the later albums; however they just don't ROCK quite as hard as the first 3.
Boy, I don't understand a thing you just said.
To the OP - a good compromise is a BRASS bristled brush. Many grill brushes are this type.
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knieveltech
Jun 7, 2007, 12:49 AM
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Arguments about bristle type aside (why argue? get one each of wire, brass, and nylon, and use whichever is apropriate for the rock in question) check this bad boy out.
Extendable reach, quickly swaps out brushes, and even comes with a tube for blowing crap off of holds (also doubles as a beer bong if you can find a funnel)
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cintune
Jun 7, 2007, 1:25 AM
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Been using a long-handled brass-bristle grill brush to clean off some little rocks nearby. Short handled one ripped up my knuckles too much.
Before:
After:
(This post was edited by cintune on Jun 7, 2007, 1:26 AM)
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8flood8
Jun 7, 2007, 1:26 AM
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gunkiemike wrote: Boy, I don't understand a thing you just said. To the OP - a good compromise is a BRASS bristled brush. Many grill brushes are this type.
TooL the band... i was riffing off of the other guy posting about them
(opiate and undertow are their first two albums followed by aenima, salival [live], lateralus and their last installment 10,000 Days)
flood happens to be song #9 on Undertow
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healyje
Jun 7, 2007, 1:39 AM
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rizzuh wrote: Hey; I'm working on a few routes that look like they haven't been climbed in years... cracks and edges are caked up with dirt/mud. Figure I'll use a rest day to go up and clean'em off... so what would you recommend as the best plan of attack? Toothbrush, wire toothbrush, bbq grill brush, etc? Sounds like a dumb question but the holds are really small and friction is minimal; wasn't sure if a big wire brush would reduce my odds. Thanks, -Nic from San Diego
We're all dying to know, are you just cleaning or are you retrobolting as well...
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rocknice2
Jun 7, 2007, 2:31 AM
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diebetes wrote: I've never seen a wire brush polish hard rock when used long enough to clean the rock. ever.
I use a wire brush to clean all my routes. Mostly granite but lately I've been developing some sandstone. The amount of brushing needed to clean dirt, mud or lichen off a route does not polish the rock. Just leave the angle grinder at home.
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bent_gate
Jun 7, 2007, 3:17 AM
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healyje wrote: rizzuh wrote: Hey; I'm working on a few routes that look like they haven't been climbed in years... cracks and edges are caked up with dirt/mud. Figure I'll use a rest day to go up and clean'em off... so what would you recommend as the best plan of attack? Toothbrush, wire toothbrush, bbq grill brush, etc? Sounds like a dumb question but the holds are really small and friction is minimal; wasn't sure if a big wire brush would reduce my odds. Thanks, -Nic from San Diego We're all dying to know, are you just cleaning or are you retrobolting as well...
Remember, it's not chipping if you just create a hold by vigorously brushing!
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tanner
Jun 7, 2007, 3:34 AM
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Wire bush is ok to give a route its very first rough clean. After than nylon is best, to avoid polishing the rock. A "piss can" used for wild fire fighting gets rid of dirt in a hurry. Also scrubing using water, before a good rain gets the best results I think. Get some work gloves!!!
I've seen a pressure washer do a good job in the past. Gas fire pumps w/ a fire hose can do some damage as well. All you need is a water source (pond or creek) and a rental shop.
Power is good!!!!
I scub w/ brushes though.
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ronolsen
Jun 7, 2007, 9:18 AM
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Wire brushes work great on Boulder Canyon granite.
Before:
After:
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svilnit
Jun 7, 2007, 11:47 AM
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ronolsen wrote: Wire brushes work great on Boulder Canyon granite. Before: [image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/62/42/105856242_large_650af5.jpg[/image] After: [image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/62/38/105856238_large_57ef1b.jpg[/image]
Good lord... don't let the environmentalists see this thread. You will have them all knocking at your back door. Remember the studies that were up on here a couple of years ago about the impact of climbers on vegetation? Can you imagine what they would say if they saw this?
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iceravines
Jun 7, 2007, 12:13 PM
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I zoomed in 400% and seen the dried leaves on the rock...wire brush it off and then use a paint brush of good size to remove the dirt and leaves ! Start at the top and work down or you will have to clean it over again. Use the brass to touch up certain areas that may be used as holds. I have been with others doing the same on unclimbed boulders and routes.
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