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squamishdirtbag


Jun 30, 2007, 1:03 AM
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unbelieveable video group soloists
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This is one weird movie
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwCyM84HCcA&mode=user&search=


pylonhead


Jun 30, 2007, 1:29 AM
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Re: [squamishdirtbag] unbelieveable video group soloists [In reply to]
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They win.


time2clmb


Jun 30, 2007, 1:36 AM
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They win for sure.... Speechless.


truello


Jun 30, 2007, 2:11 AM
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I can't wait to show this to my Russian coworker who calls me crazy for climbing.


skidawg


Jun 30, 2007, 3:01 AM
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Wow, intense...A little sad though too.


grover


Jun 30, 2007, 3:36 AM
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WOW!!!!!

That's bad-ass!!!!

150 years of climbing?

Down-sliding head first?

And not a Vodka bottle in sight.. impressive.

WOW!!!


dreday3000


Jun 30, 2007, 4:17 AM
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my god that is crazy... I think I might have to go.


bent_gate


Jun 30, 2007, 4:41 AM
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Wow. Well that definitely proves they didn't loose the Cold War from lack of cajones!


time2clmb


Jun 30, 2007, 4:56 AM
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skidawg wrote:
Wow, intense...A little sad though too.

Sad by who's standards? They all seemed pretty fucking stoked to me.


skidawg


Jun 30, 2007, 9:09 AM
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'cause of the kid that died, and how "normal" it was. I solo all the time...just think something like that being treated in such a way is sort of sad.


notapplicable


Jul 1, 2007, 5:05 PM
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That would throw me completely off my game. There is no way I could focus or feel comfortable unroped with all those people around me.

That being said they seemed to be having a hell of a time and I say good for them.


dingus


Jul 1, 2007, 6:10 PM
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What an amazing tribe of people. Those people are tradder than trad. They're like climbing-Spartans or something.

The climbing world would be a much smaller place without them.

Fill up the pitcher
Raise up the glass
The climbers from Stolby
Kick some serious ass!

I'd heard grannies free soloed and some 70 year old dude augered in once.

A far cry from our western Convenience Store Climbing eh?

Thanks for posting this link.

DMT


(This post was edited by dingus on Jul 1, 2007, 6:11 PM)


dingus


Jul 1, 2007, 6:58 PM
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From supertopo.com

http://www.supertopo.com/...msg=183208#msg183208

Cheers
DMT


notch


Jul 1, 2007, 8:04 PM
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squamishdirtbag wrote:
This is one weird movie
http://www.youtube.com/...ode=user&search=
sigh


112


Jul 1, 2007, 8:24 PM
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Re: [pylonhead] unbelieveable video group soloists [In reply to]
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pylonhead wrote:
They win.

time2clmb wrote:
They win for sure.... Speechless.

I don't think it is a competition. Kind of like feeling the wind on your face isn't a competition...


time2clmb


Jul 1, 2007, 10:05 PM
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Re: [112] unbelieveable video group soloists [In reply to]
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112 wrote:
pylonhead wrote:
They win.

time2clmb wrote:
They win for sure.... Speechless.

I don't think it is a competition. Kind of like feeling the wind on your face isn't a competition...

Gee no shit. No need to read into everything so much eh.


bent_gate


Jul 1, 2007, 10:14 PM
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112 wrote:
pylonhead wrote:
They win.

time2clmb wrote:
They win for sure.... Speechless.

I don't think it is a competition. Kind of like feeling the wind on your face isn't a competition...

But where feeling the wind on your face is a competition, These guys win:




112


Jul 1, 2007, 10:14 PM
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time2clmb wrote:
112 wrote:
pylonhead wrote:
They win.

time2clmb wrote:
They win for sure.... Speechless.

I don't think it is a competition. Kind of like feeling the wind on your face isn't a competition...

Gee no shit. No need to read into everything so much eh.

I think you mean, don't be so literal. I read nothing into either of your posts.


112


Jul 1, 2007, 10:18 PM
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Re: [bent_gate] unbelieveable video group soloists [In reply to]
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Typical American... Everything has to be optimized, competed for, and won...


bent_gate


Jul 1, 2007, 10:27 PM
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112 wrote:
Typical American... Everything has to be optimized, competed for, and won...

I bet my dad is stronger than your dad...

USA!... USA!... USA!...


bent_gate


Jul 1, 2007, 10:56 PM
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time2clmb wrote:
skidawg wrote:
Wow, intense...A little sad though too.

Sad by who's standards? They all seemed pretty fucking stoked to me.

Perhaps sad by the parents of that kid's standards...

Life has tremendous up and down sides. That day, someone more than that child lost something that was everything to them.

But actually that is why I give that video credit for including both the good with the bad. Learn your risk, and reward. Then choose the amount that is right for you.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ost=1359232;#1359232
kostik wrote:
These are photos of Vladimir Teplyh's last climb in 1989. He was a well-known soloist in the Stolby Reserve in Siberia.
Before his last climb:

Climb begins:

Half-way up


Right before the fall:

Last moment of life:

Body carried away:


http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ost=1359256;#1359256
kostik wrote:
Apparently, it was a route he had done solo many times before. This time a flake of rock got stuck to his shoes and caused him to slip at the top of the route.

He belonged to a community of soloists, called 'stolbists'. There are perhaps 500 or so stolbists now. Climbing for sport started in that area in 1851. People die or get injured on Stolby on a regular basis. The oldest stolbist to die was a 74 year old woman with 50 or so year experience.

There is a story about Vladimir Teplyh (pictured above). A girl named Duska said that she would sleep with whoever sends a particularly difficult bouldering problem. Vladimir was in his 20-ties at that time. He was the only one to climb it. Duska kept her promise. This problem is since called 'Duska's cleft'.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ost=1362896;#1362896
kostik wrote:
In reply to:
In Estes we solo, drunk, high, happy, sad, on Tuesday Morning or Thursday afternoon.

Old Vlad was a climber, lived it, died it, embraced it...G's up Stolbist's.

Well, you may want to visit Stolby some time. They also solo, engage each other in drinking matches, sing with a guitar and enjoy other human pleasures. They'll probably challenge you to solo some easy route in the first time, since their huts are usually placed high in the middle of the cliffs, not unlike Anasazi dwellings.

Here are videos of a 13 year old kid soloing some of Vlad Teplyh's routes:

Teplyh's Rib (20 Mb each part):
http://www.stolby.ru/...eenko/bRebro1.00.avi
http://www.stolby.ru/...eenko/bRebro2.00.avi
http://www.stolby.ru/...eenko/bRebro3.00.avi
http://www.stolby.ru/...eenko/bRebro4.00.avi

Teplyh's Loop (each part is about 20 Mb):
http://www.stolby.ru/...enko/bPetlya1.00.avi
http://www.stolby.ru/...enko/bPetlya2.00.avi
http://www.stolby.ru/...enko/bPetlya3.00.avi
http://www.stolby.ru/...enko/bPetlya4.00.avi

Woman's Prizes
http://www.stolby.ru/...veenko/bPrizy.00.avi

Crazy route on Mitra:
http://www.stolby.ru/...nko/bMitraMad.00.avi

Some watercolors of Stolbists by Yuri Subborin:

http://www.stolby.ru/...06_Stolby_odejda.jpg
http://www.stolby.ru/...09_Stolby_odejda.jpg
http://www.stolby.ru/...13_Stolby_odejda.jpg
http://www.stolby.ru/...15_Stolby_odejda.jpg


coopershawk


Jul 2, 2007, 12:07 AM
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Excellent, radical shit.


sausalito


Jul 2, 2007, 12:37 PM
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That is one of the single most intense things I have ever seen in regards to an internet video for so many reasons. I would really like to know more about the reasoning behind donig it in that style if anyone happens to know. Like is it environmental ethics, pride, history, ect.


dingus


Jul 2, 2007, 12:56 PM
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They were cranking high ball free solos about 100 years before the term was invented. Literally.

Check out that link I posted above and also:

http://www.stolby.ru/eng/History.asp

comes back to you courtesy of Jaybro on the Taco.

DMT


climbinwv


Jul 2, 2007, 1:19 PM
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I just showed this to one of my coworkers who is from Russia and she acted like it was no big deal....I have watched it like 20 times and can't even fathom some of this stuff. Apparently over there when someone dies doing this it is considered an honorable death and the person is remembered as courageous. She explained to me that I don't need to spend tons of $$$$$ on shoes/gear to enjoy climbing. Her friends husband is a manager of a park where thousands of people climb and many people die every year. I explained to her that a park here with that kind of record would be closed almost immediately. She didn't understand this...she said that if a person want's to go out and do something dangerous that is their choice. I explained that in the western world we are obsessed with safety and the things being done in that video would be viewed here as unsafe. She asked me" what makes climbing safe? What makes climbing exciting? Why do you climb in the first place?" I don't know how to answer these questions after watching this video. I do know that if there is a hot chick that's gonna put out if I send something crazy I might ditch my rope and fancy climbin shoes and go Russian....Sly

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