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tdsharkey
Sep 14, 2007, 5:12 PM
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I have a buddy who wants to do a little climbing, but is pretty cheap and does not want to buy approach shoes AND technical rock climbing shoes. He'd rather get a pair of shoes that does both as well as is practical. I know that some approach shoes can have nice technical characteristics. I have an old pair of 5.10 Guide Almighties which I use, for example, which handle both jobs pretty nicely, but you can no longer get those. Any suggestions?
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shoo
Sep 14, 2007, 5:16 PM
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Don't buy the approach shoes and get a decent pair of beginner rock shoes. Search "beginner shoes" on the forum for more info. A technical approach shoe isn't really needed for the vast majority of popular climbing areas.
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shimanilami
Sep 14, 2007, 5:45 PM
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My approach shoes are a pair of flip-flops. And if I need more than that, I wear running shoes.
IMO technical approach shoes are really only necessary if your scrambling around alpine-style or aid climbing.
Tell your friend to get some decent climbing shoes.
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tahamsh
Sep 14, 2007, 5:47 PM
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Check your local gym... they often have old rental shoes for sale in the $15-20 range. They may require a little Lysol but should do the trick until he gets more serious about climbing.
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kevinheiss
Sep 14, 2007, 5:50 PM
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I totally agree with Shoo.
And if your friend is so cheap that he doesn't want to buy or rent a pair of climbing shoes, than he probably shouldn't be going rock climbing (not to be mean).
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tdsharkey
Sep 14, 2007, 6:08 PM
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Thanks for your input. I think I'll suggest to him the 5.10 Guide Tennie...
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8flood8
Sep 14, 2007, 6:12 PM
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ok, but that's not what we told you to do
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tdsharkey
Sep 14, 2007, 6:20 PM
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8flood8 wrote: ok, but that's not what we told you to do
And no one answered the question I asked.
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krusher4
Sep 14, 2007, 6:34 PM
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haha, rent some 'rock' shoes 10-15 bones and wear pretty much any shoe for approach.
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EPiCJAMES
Sep 14, 2007, 6:52 PM
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tdsharkey wrote: 8flood8 wrote: ok, but that's not what we told you to do And no one answered the question I asked.
the answer you wanted to hear would be the "incorrect" answer. instead, they gave you a better alternative. here's ANOTHER, buy a pair of used shoes from the gym, then go down to payless and buy a cheap pair of walking/running shoes fo 20 bucks. after everything, he'd have 2 pairs of shoes, for about 30-40 bucks. now go buy your APPROACH shoes.
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reg
Sep 14, 2007, 7:01 PM
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i've climbed 60' of 5.6 with 30 lb pack in my
la sportiva exum ridge with FirXion rubber soles - excellent shoes - sometimes u can find them here for more then half off!
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shoo
Sep 14, 2007, 7:27 PM
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That's because the question you asked does not lead to the ideal situation. Approach shoes are, in your situation, a complete waste of money. They are almost worthless for any real rock climbing (in comparison to any actual rock shoe) and aren't really necessary for an actual approach. They just won't cut it.
Then again, it's your (friend's) money. Feel free to waste it as you please.
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baja_java
Sep 14, 2007, 7:31 PM
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i just bought a pair of La Sportiva Barr Trail
http://www.explore64.com/...nning-Shoe-Mens.html
they're trail runners, technically. but they do have the very sticky FriXion rubber, and a flat spot at the big toe area for decent edging, and are ridiculously light and nimble. did a 4-pitch 5.6 in them recently, and felt very good in them. better than Guide Tennies, but that's just my opinion. never cared much for dot rubber. got mine at the Bishop shop on sale. you can probably get them at closed-out price, if you look around. i've also tried on the La Sportiva Exum Ridge. also a very nimble shoe that you can do easy stuff in. neither i'd use for climbing harder stuff though
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tdsharkey
Sep 14, 2007, 7:33 PM
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Thanks Reg, if I remember correctly, a about five or more years ago Nike had the Exum Ridge name. As far as I know, it is the only time that Nike has gone into anything like a climbing or mountaineering shoe. The Nike version had the reputation for falling apart kind of quickly. I'm hearing the same thing about the 5.10 Guide Tennie, but it looks like a good all-purpose shoe. I'll be sure to point the Exum Ridge out to him as well..
As an aside, the purpose of the shoes in question is for a trip to the Tetons next summer. The wearer is looking at climbing a number of class 3 or 4 summits (Teewinot Mountain, Buck Mountain..) and do some sport climbs, likely top roped, at easier grades (probably 5.8 and under, perhaps much under..) some of which have a fairly long approach with a fair amount of scrambling. He may do a fairly small amount of gym climbing to prepare (we are in Florida..) but I don't think it will become a hobby..It may be just me, but flip-flops seem inadequate to the task..
So, again, thanks Reg for answering the question I asked, and not answering the question you think I should have asked.
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tdsharkey
Sep 14, 2007, 7:39 PM
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baja_java wrote: i just bought a pair of La Sportiva Barr Trail
Huh, interesting...With that more lugged bottom, did they seem to suffer much when smearing? I guess it would make them better on muddy terrain though..
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shoo
Sep 14, 2007, 7:53 PM
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tdsharkey wrote: As an aside, the purpose of the shoes in question is for a trip to the Tetons next summer. The wearer is looking at climbing a number of class 3 or 4 summits (Teewinot Mountain, Buck Mountain..) and do some sport climbs, likely top roped, at easier grades (probably 5.8 and under, perhaps much under..) some of which have a fairly long approach with a fair amount of scrambling. He may do a fairly small amount of gym climbing to prepare (we are in Florida..) but I don't think it will become a hobby..It may be just me, but flip-flops seem inadequate to the task..
That's a bit of a different question than the one you originally asked. If the primary purpose of the shoe is class 3 and 4 ascents, then by all means go with the approach shoes. However, this is not technical rock climbing and therefore not what you asked to start.
Also, for the record, "sport climb" refers to leading a bolted route, not top roping.
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baja_java
Sep 14, 2007, 7:55 PM
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Barr Trail and Exum Ridge have similar bottoms, both treaded like trail runners. neither forefoots are flat, but good enough to smear with, at least they felt good enough for me on lead. more key for me is the little flat spot around the big toe area for edging. not all approach shoes have that
another option would be to resole an old pair of running shoes with Stealth or whatever rubber of choice. Positive Resoles at JTree is willing to slap on a half sole like that for you, for example. i was getting ready to do that with a pair of runners that was slightly on the tight side. might still do that at some point
runners are light by design. plus, when people see you climbing in running shoes, they just naturally think you're badass. and that's what's important!!
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tdsharkey
Sep 14, 2007, 8:04 PM
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Shoo, I asked for a suggestions on approach shoes which have some ability to do technical rock climbs. It seemed like a pretty straight forward question to me that did not require me to post an complete trip itinerary to get a straight forward answer. Other people didn't seem to have a problem doing that.
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reg
Sep 14, 2007, 8:24 PM
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tdsharkey wrote: As an aside, the purpose of the shoes in question is for a trip to the Tetons next summer. The wearer is looking at climbing a number of class 3 or 4 summits (Teewinot Mountain, Buck Mountain..)
great shoe for that, as long as the weather holds. on an attempt of Grays Peak in early september we were turned back by snow that kept gettin deeper by the minute - had all the right gear and supplies but the shoes, damit!
tdsharkey wrote: So, again, thanks Reg for answering the question I asked, and not answering the question you think I should have asked.
ur welcome on the frist part - 2nd: wish i could take credit for that!
p.s. - chk out baja java's responce
(This post was edited by reg on Sep 14, 2007, 8:27 PM)
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tdsharkey
Sep 14, 2007, 8:37 PM
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reg wrote: great shoe for that, as long as the weather holds. on an attempt of Grays Peak in early september we were turned back by snow that kept gettin deeper by the minute - had all the right gear and supplies but the shoes, damit!
Haha..I appreciate your concern, but this trip is =next= summer in July, as opposed to the last few days of what passes for summer in September in the Tetons. I know how you feel though. Two years ago practically to this day I was in Death Canyon in the Tetons and had an early snow storm rudely dump on us. We weren't set up for that and got the hell out!
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sidepull
Sep 14, 2007, 8:42 PM
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tdsharkey wrote: Shoo, I asked for a suggestions on approach shoes which have some ability to do technical rock climbs. It seemed like a pretty straight forward question to me that did not require me to post an complete trip itinerary to get a straight forward answer. Other people didn't seem to have a problem doing that.
snarky.
Shoo is right to point out the difference between your OP and what you're now telling us. If you had asked "what is a good shoe for the class 3/4 scrambling needed in the Tetons to get to the class 5 stuff?" then maybe you would have received "better" answers. But you posed a poorly worded question, expected people to read your mind, and then responded with a know it all attitude. Assholes like you don't need advice, they want to be told what they already think they know (and sadly, they never realize that they're assholes). Good luck.
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wolfski
Sep 16, 2007, 9:58 PM
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where do you climb that a beginner needs approach shoes anyways?
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lithiummetalman
Sep 16, 2007, 11:22 PM
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This might sound unusual, but how about a pair of water moccasins? Can pick up a pair from wal-mart for less than $5.
I've been using the same pair (with reinforced toe) for the last two years for general walking, technical approaches, and light climbing. They have worked wonderfully for smearing, light jamming and smedging
One thing I like about them is that they breathe better & dry out faster than running shoes, plus the fact they're light and have a very low profile. (great for clipping to the harness on a climb)
just my two cents
cheers
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vegastradguy
Sep 17, 2007, 12:02 AM
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Acopa Lowriders- meant as a street shoe, but with a smooth sole on the bottom made of Acopa sticky rubber. My buddy is currently using them as his approach shoe, and while he doesnt climb in them, he feels very comfortable in 4th class- much more so than other shoes he's tried.
personally, i'm pretty sure i could climb 5.9/5.10 in them if sized right. my only concern is the lack of any padding/eva.
Acopa has another model coming out this spring (the name escapes me at the moment) which is essentially the Lowrider with an EVA sole.
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deltav
Sep 17, 2007, 12:56 AM
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When I am guiding, I use the La Sportiva Cirque Pro. I can hike in them, do 3rd & 4th class plus climb 5.7 with a pack on. All around great shoe.
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tdsharkey
Sep 17, 2007, 3:38 AM
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deltav wrote: When I am guiding, I use the La Sportiva Cirque Pro. I can hike in them, do 3rd & 4th class plus climb 5.7 with a pack on. All around great shoe.
Thanks for input. I had not come across that one. That does look like a nice shoe. How durable are they?
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hamptoncomesalive
Sep 17, 2007, 3:58 AM
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Yea I've been looking at the new Acopa shoe. It looks like they are on
my to get list for this spring
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split15
Sep 17, 2007, 4:32 AM
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I heard "Roller Blades" work really well...
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NSFW
Sep 17, 2007, 11:21 PM
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split15 wrote: I heard "Roller Blades" work really well...
Wow, you really suck at this. I mean seriously, you’re terrible. Rollerblades? I wasn’t sure if there was some real low level humor in there somewhere that I missed (and I’m pretty low brow), so I slammed my head into my desk a couple of times, huffed some glue, and then re-read your post. It still sucked. Don’t get me wrong, I love smart ass replies. But yours was missing a crucial element: something funny or offensive. Leave the comedy to the professionals, son. Here, have a lollipop.
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deltav
Sep 20, 2007, 4:37 PM
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Very durable...so far
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ocary
Sep 20, 2007, 5:21 PM
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NSFW wrote: split15 wrote: I heard "Roller Blades" work really well... Wow, you really suck at this. I mean seriously, you’re terrible. Rollerblades? I wasn’t sure if there was some real low level humor in there somewhere that I missed (and I’m pretty low brow), so I slammed my head into my desk a couple of times, huffed some glue, and then re-read your post. It still sucked. Don’t get me wrong, I love smart ass replies. But yours was missing a crucial element: something funny or offensive. Leave the comedy to the professionals, son. Here, have a lollipop.
http://www.amazon.com/.../102-9693421-6003330
These better? You sound cranky, maybe you need a time-out instead of a new pair of skates ya whiny little bitch. 
To the OP. No matter what you get, make sure it fits. Buddy of mine got the shoes everyone was saying "these be the cats pajamas" so he bought them. He hated them. Got something else that fit right but came with less acclaim and has been way happier.
Personally, my approach shoes are Vasque trail runners I picked up at REI half price. They were half price for a reason. Marginal comfort and they stink to high heaven --- worse than my climbing shoes.
N.
p.s. NSFW, Gimme a lollipop. Now!
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paulraphael
Sep 23, 2007, 2:57 PM
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The bigest issue with approach shoes (besides fit) is whether to get ones that are closer to climbing shoes or closer to trail/running shoes. there's a whole continuum.
I got some 5.10 insights this year, and love them for long approaches. I backpacked into the Cirque of the Towers with them (with six days worth of food and gear) and had no trouble. And they were great on technical approaches, wet slabs, dirt, boulder hopping, etc.
They were not so great last weekend when I went to Cannon and forgot my rock shoes! I tried to climb a 5.8 hand crack in them. They literally torqued off of my feet whenever I tried to jam them and stand up! And they're too fat and sloppy to edge well. I gave up!
I borrowed my partner's 5.10 guide tennies for the 5.7 multipitch we did the next day. These were much better for climbing on cracks and smaller edges than the insights. But I would not have wanted to hike a long approach in them, or a long mountain descent.
[edited ... i got the name of the insights wrong]
(This post was edited by paulraphael on Sep 23, 2007, 5:41 PM)
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grampacharlie
Sep 23, 2007, 3:43 PM
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I have a pair of 5.10 insights
http://www.backcountry.com/store/FVT0010/c5/s100000040/Five-Ten-Insight-Approach-Shoe-Mens.html?id=yzVbVp5S
They're great all around comfortable shoes, and I have bouldered up to V3 and climbed up to 5.9 trad in them (not on lead), but it's only because my footwork was been the focus of my climbing since i started.
I think some of these folks are correct in saying that it's better to get a $15 pair of actual climbing shoes that one could re-sell for $15 if one does not agree that climbing is for them then it would be to buy a $95-150 pair of approach shoes that are not meant for beginners.
In all honesty, my first pair of climbing shoes were Chuck Taylors. I could get up most 5.7s-5.8s n them, but they were not good for edging/face climbing.
Approach shoes, even with sticky rubber are going to be just as clumsy and difficult to climb for a beginner as any pair of sneakers, but they're more expensive and will wear out faster because the rubber is softer if the footwork is not highly developed.
I'm not saying it couldn't work, but I think you're buddy would be dissapointed with the durability for everyday wear that most sticky-rubber approach shoes have, and that the price would not be worth what you have in mind for the shoes.
(This post was edited by grampacharlie on Sep 23, 2007, 3:45 PM)
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slablizard
Sep 26, 2007, 11:34 PM
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I just bought the same shoes....I am amazed how well they climb, I did up to 11b in the gym, but I still haven't took them outdoor, they are 2 days old today...
I believe someone's suggestion of cheap snickers + cheap gym climbing shoes is the best one...
deltav wrote: When I am guiding, I use the La Sportiva Cirque Pro. I can hike in them, do 3rd & 4th class plus climb 5.7 with a pack on. All around great shoe. |
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