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rockprodigy
Oct 16, 2002, 8:24 PM
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We were tied together with an 8.8(?) mm x 200' rope It worked pretty well, except that my partner was so far away that the pictures look kinda wierd. I lead most of it and he would usually catch me on the hard spots, makinf for less rope drag, but like you said, most the cruxes are boulder problems with long easy sections in between. The exception would be the pitch right above Cassin Ledge which was pretty sustained, about 100' long, but if you bivy there, then you have a good belay for the pitch.
As for climbing in gloves or tools, it depends...have you climbed mixed before? (I sure hope so!)If so, then you know how it goes.
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jhump
Oct 16, 2002, 8:36 PM
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Yes I understand. It's just the pics I have seen from the mixed parts of the route look like steps that you mantle up on at a time. I was just wondering how much torquing and hooking was involved as a way to judge the sustained sections.
While simuling did you keep pro between you or just go? If he caught you it sounds like a huge bow would be in the rope. If one fell, the other would surely go. Was this how you did it?
How is the Cowboy Hat Traverse?
[ This Message was edited by: jhump on 2002-10-16 13:39 ]
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rockprodigy
Oct 16, 2002, 10:28 PM
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We had pro, but we generally climb with the understanding that you don't fall. There are some short, sustained mixed sections, like 10 foot boulder problems. You have to realize that people don't usually pull out their cameras at the hardest parts, they pull them out during the easiest parts. Go to the NA classics website and buy the CD, it has tons of good photos with very specific beta.
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rockprodigy
Oct 17, 2002, 1:41 PM
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...And another thing...the Cassin ain't crowded...once you drop into the NE fork, you'll feel like you just landed on the moon. That mountain is so big!
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drake
May 24, 2005, 1:13 PM
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I wonder how it went?
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graniteboy
May 24, 2005, 10:22 PM
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Dude....If you hafta ASK about the Cassin, you shouldn't be on it. Really.
If this will be your first "big trip" to the AK range, set your sites a little lower this first time, cause it will pay off in the end.
The Cassin is serious enough to snuff you. Try the wet butt route to the upper west rib as a decent starter route in the range.
If you REALLY feel you hafta do the cassin....you might wanna try getting acclimated on the wet butt route first. Spend some time at 16,200 camp to get your blood and lungs in order, then drop down and haul ass up the NE fork.
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njbourne
May 29, 2005, 7:22 AM
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In reply to: Dude....If you hafta ASK about the Cassin, you shouldn't be on it.
Are you saying that any route that anyone attempts to pick up beta on is automatically out of there league because they didn't already know everything there was to know about the route. That is total ridiculous. I know the guy. He's not some Gumbie who is out there throwing himself at routes because he seen them on a poster.
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andrewph
May 29, 2005, 10:19 AM
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In reply to: If this will be your first "big trip" to the AK range, set your sites a little lower this first time, cause it will pay off in the end. The Cassin is serious enough to snuff you. Try the wet butt route to the upper west rib as a decent starter route in the range. If you REALLY feel you hafta do the cassin....you might wanna try getting acclimated on the wet butt route first. Spend some time at 16,200 camp to get your blood and lungs in order, then drop down and haul ass up the NE fork.
Your input may have been apreciated 3 years ago when this was posted. But I think its probably too late now, so why not let old posts lie in the grave where they belong!
Andy
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drake
May 31, 2005, 6:55 PM
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njbourne:
How did it go for them?
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njbourne
Jun 1, 2005, 9:59 AM
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Drake:
He was turned back during the approach. He and his partner wanted to avoid a return to the base of the route to recover there ski's. They attempted to do the approach on boot soles. Snow conditions were such that it would have added a couple of days onto an itinerary that was cutting it close already. They were near the end of there trip and decided it would have to wait another year.
His attempt this year was cut short by tragedy. After summiting via the West Rib and the Messener(Sp?) he had to leave the mountain due to an emergency.
I have no doubt that he will return to the mountain and accomplish his goal.
Nick
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drake
Jun 1, 2005, 4:29 PM
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Thanks Nick! He sounds tenacious, which is what it takes to get up the Cassin. Definitely a worth while objective.
I hope to be taking a shot at it in June of 07, if I can find a partner.
Drake
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graniteboy
Jun 2, 2005, 11:00 PM
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Hey...My bad on the timing of that post...Didn't read fine print and didn't realize it was from 2 yrs ago.
Still, though, my advice does not change, and jumping on the cassin as your first route in the big range is probably over the heads of 99% of climbers who haven't climbed in the big range, unless they have significant himalayan experience.
Just an opinion I've come to after seeing too many deaths in the range. Biased? yes. Sound advice...definitely.
Glad he made it up a relatively easy route. next time, he'll probably bag the big route.
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davidvaldes
Jun 7, 2005, 1:00 AM
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Topo for future Cassin climbers:
There is a detailed topo for the entire Cassin Ridge on page 91 of Alaska A Climbing Guide by Michael Woods and Colby Coombs.
Good luck....:shock:
I would like to climb the West Rib in '07.
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clintoris
Jun 8, 2005, 6:52 AM
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I'm climbing The West Rib this next Spring (2006) for my first time on Denali. I ain't too worried, I ice climb extensively and by next may I will have climbed Rainier 4-5 times by at least one AK grade IV route.
The Buttress is too crowded and cliche, I'd rather take a serious challenge other than just altitude. I'd like to work for the summit.
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