Nov 13, 2007, 12:04 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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thw wire is lighter.... nut it is ecually strong.. check the biner ..... you can find how strong they are... and buy the stongest wiregate any way they are not going to brake...and they are all the same (wiregate bent gate from madrock... are really easy to clip)
Nov 13, 2007, 12:39 PM
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Re: [omalavet] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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I've always heard that wire gates were stronger when cross loaded. Solid gates rely on the small pin connecting the body and the gate for its gate strength.
Nov 13, 2007, 2:21 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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just go into a store and read the minor axis strength. You will see that it is independent of wire or solid gate construction. Either one can be constructed to very high standards.
Gate flutter is a true phenomenon, and wire gates are one way to minimize the chances of it happening.
Nov 13, 2007, 2:30 PM
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Re: [microbarn] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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...I use both, on the same draw...
On "top" goes the solid gate biner (of the notchless variety) and on the "bottom" goes the wire gate.
I like having the "notchless" at the top for clipping nuts, bolts (not that it happens much), manky (and not so manky) pins, ice screws... Well for pretty much clipping any metal or sling... As they don't catch as easily...
Don't find that I need that non-catchiness on the lower end, so I use wire gates to reduce flutter and I guess a little weight...
As far as safety, what everyone else has been saying... Both are good (they wouldn't be sold otherwise, by reputable companies) and both are as safe as the use... In otherwords, it's only as safe as YOU make it!
Nov 13, 2007, 3:41 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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I've heard that wire gates aren't as safe as solid gates because they can backclip easier. But I've also heard that wire gates are better because the entire gate is one piece. So I'm pretty much torn between the two. Do wire gates backclip easier than solid gates?
Nov 13, 2007, 3:50 PM
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Re: [northfacejmb] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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northfacejmb wrote:
I've heard that wire gates aren't as safe as solid gates because they can backclip easier. But I've also heard that wire gates are better because the entire gate is one piece. So I'm pretty much torn between the two. Do wire gates backclip easier than solid gates?
You've heard wrong. Gate type has nothing to do with back clipping.
I can't think of many, if any at all, reasons to use anything other than wiregate biners.
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.
But then again it really comes down to personal preference, I dont mind the extra weight. My Petzl Spirits clip like a dream.
Yeah, carabiners are one thing where there is not significant difference in safety between different styles. If there were, then we would only see one style of carabiner.
I've heard that wire gates aren't as safe as solid gates because they can backclip easier. But I've also heard that wire gates are better because the entire gate is one piece. So I'm pretty much torn between the two. Do wire gates backclip easier than solid gates?
You've heard wrong. Gate type has nothing to do with back clipping.
I can't think of many, if any at all, reasons to use anything other than wiregate biners.
noobs and idiots backclip easier, has nothing to do with the gate type.
when backclipped, bent gate biner (solid or wire gates) unclip easier than straight gate. This however, is easily remedied by not being a noob and getting your belayer to check your clips as you go.
In terms of safest option, id go with solid on the bolt end since these get unclipped from the bolt less easily (see self unclipping biner http://www.climerware.com/unclip.shtml) and straight wire gate on the rope side.
in terms of performance vs. safety, your best bet is prolly straight solid gate on the bolt end (keylock for ease of cleaning) and bent wiregate on the rope side
Nov 13, 2007, 6:48 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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For single pitch sport climbing, there isn't a big difference, IMO.
If I'm doing mult-pitch, however, I like to have some solid gates for the belays. I often clip draws into the bolts, and then clip other items (e.g. tag line, gear, etc.) into the bolt-side 'biner. I've found that solid gates don't get pried open as easily when other 'biners shift around on them.
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.
DMM Shield. Notch-less wiregate.
But difficult to clip.
If you say so. I've never found them difficult to clip.
I have them and find them easier to clip than most other biners. DMM in general always has great gate action. But I guess everyone has different clipping styles.
Nov 13, 2007, 8:14 PM
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Re: [bent_gate] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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bent_gate wrote:
reno wrote:
jt512 wrote:
reno wrote:
fancyclaps wrote:
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.
DMM Shield. Notch-less wiregate.
But difficult to clip.
If you say so. I've never found them difficult to clip.
I have them and find them easier to clip than most other biners. DMM in general always has great gate action. But I guess everyone has different clipping styles.
I have some also and find them a little problematic to clip with respect to more standard biners. I think the very thin gate profile (with respect to the rope) makes them tend to rotate along the long axis and slip along the rope as opposed to opening the gate.
Nov 13, 2007, 10:57 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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shockabuku wrote:
bent_gate wrote:
reno wrote:
jt512 wrote:
reno wrote:
fancyclaps wrote:
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.
DMM Shield. Notch-less wiregate.
But difficult to clip.
If you say so. I've never found them difficult to clip.
I have them and find them easier to clip than most other biners. DMM in general always has great gate action. But I guess everyone has different clipping styles.
I have some also and find them a little problematic to clip with respect to more standard biners. I think the very thin gate profile (with respect to the rope) makes them tend to rotate along the long axis and slip along the rope as opposed to opening the gate.
Yeah, the thin gate profile combined with the narrow spine makes them prone to twisting in your hand when you clip. In addition, you have to get the rope over the biner's nose, and the biner's nose profile fails to guide the rope into the biner. It's mostly a problem on difficult redpoints, when you want to clip as fast and as smoothly as humanly possible.
Nov 13, 2007, 11:05 PM
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Re: [jt512] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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jt512 wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
bent_gate wrote:
reno wrote:
jt512 wrote:
reno wrote:
fancyclaps wrote:
Because carabiners with keylock noses are, for me, substantially easier to clean and use.
DMM Shield. Notch-less wiregate.
But difficult to clip.
If you say so. I've never found them difficult to clip.
I have them and find them easier to clip than most other biners. DMM in general always has great gate action. But I guess everyone has different clipping styles.
I have some also and find them a little problematic to clip with respect to more standard biners. I think the very thin gate profile (with respect to the rope) makes them tend to rotate along the long axis and slip along the rope as opposed to opening the gate.
Yeah, the thin gate profile combined with the narrow spine makes them prone to twisting in your hand when you clip. In addition, you have to get the rope over the biner's nose, and the biner's nose profile fails to guide the rope into the biner. It's mostly a problem on difficult redpoints, when you want to clip as fast and as smoothly as humanly possible.
Jay
I can't say I ever really liked the Shields either for the same reasons stated.
Nov 13, 2007, 11:14 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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i have heard similar things, i love the wire gate draws i have(and i have used both kinds) they are lighter than solid gate draws and just as strong, i think wire is the way to go
I can't think of many, if any at all, reasons to use anything other than wiregate biners.
Handling?
I still use barrel-gate biners on the equipment end of all my draws and for racking because I find wires excellent to clip but fiddly to work with my digits. I spend more time fuddling with the wiregates than is worth the (very minor) weight savings.
I can't think of any reasons not to put a wiregate on the rope end of stuff though, other than potentially cost.
Nov 14, 2007, 5:39 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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Solid gates make more noise when clipping which is important for your belayer when he can't see you make the clip. That is the biggest factor to me for choosing solid over wire gates.
Nov 14, 2007, 7:18 PM
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Re: [getoutmore] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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getoutmore wrote:
Solid gates make more noise when clipping which is important for your belayer when he can't see you make the clip. That is the biggest factor to me for choosing solid over wire gates.
this makes me laugh. see if you think the same thing next time you miss a clip, but your partner hears the noise and starts to take in slack.
learn to say "clipping" which means give me slack and "clipped" which means the rope is in the biner, so take up slack.
Nov 14, 2007, 7:36 PM
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Re: [Carnage] Solid or wire gate? Whats the safest option?
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I've found intelligent partners who can decipher a missed clip from a successful one by the large amount of slack created by me dropping the rope without it being clipped. It's pretty elementary.
Very little slack=successful clip
Lots of slack = unsuccessful clip
And if they are still confused the "Oh shit, I missed the clip" might be a good hint.
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