|
achilles
Feb 25, 2002, 8:11 AM
Post #26 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 52
|
Rock on kman!
I am also doing my first trad climb this weekend. I have been 2nd for about a year and a half now and have picked up some great experience by removing placements and checking carefully at how they were put in. Afterwards me and my climb-bud would discuss the placements and rocktype, giving me a good idea what to look out for.
I will most definitely start on a much lower grading than I am used to, to build up confidence.
Rock-a-bye!
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Feb 25, 2002, 9:11 AM
Post #27 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
Get your gear, and go for it. When I started climbing in 1976, there was no trad, rad, sport, short, or whatever the hell they call things now. You approached the rock (virgin) and went for it. I have NO idea how this thing of rapping to place bolts came about. Warren Harding climbed El Cap from the base, not the summit. Back then, that was the logical thing to do.
Besides, a good whipper now and then is good for the soul.
|
|
|
|
|
bubbala
Feb 26, 2002, 10:28 PM
Post #28 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2001
Posts: 10
|
When I learned how to climb, I learned by setting up top ropes. You can set a million pieces, so that you're safe, but you learn a ton about GOOD placements, rope work, anchors and everything else every climber should know.
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Feb 27, 2002, 3:34 AM
Post #29 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
It's best to start at ground level, except possibly when climbing sea cliffs, in which case, it is acceptable to start at sea level.
-Jay
|
|
|
|
|
inflight
May 2, 2002, 2:30 PM
Post #30 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 28, 2002
Posts: 172
|
You can start leading at anytime. learn all you can from the trad course, read books, and from others you meet. Hire a guide if you have the money. They are a great resource and some world famous climbers work as guides. Start very low on the rating scale until you are certain the gear you place can save your life.
|
|
|
|
|
fat_tony
May 2, 2002, 8:32 PM
Post #31 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2002
Posts: 10
|
Take some gear and place it while standing on the ground.
Give it a yank to see if it's placed properly,
if it pops out and nails you in the forehead, you'll understand:
1. Bad placements
2. Always wear a helmet
|
|
|
|
|
iclimbtoo
May 5, 2002, 6:11 AM
Post #32 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 10, 2002
Posts: 645
|
Wow, everyone on this site gives awesome advice!!! I love it! Somewhere where at least MOST of the people know what they're actually saying! All I'm going to add is I'm way proud of you for wanting to go Trad man! It seems nowdays there's not many of our breed left! I'm glad you're joining us! Trad is the heart of climbing man...you'll love it!
|
|
|
|
|
frawg
May 5, 2002, 6:33 AM
Post #33 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 175
|
I've never climbed trad. However, i'm planning on it.
I've been setting up my toprope routes using my nuts that i've started collecting. The first time was sketchy, but i provided myself good backups. I'm on it. I am feeling like i'm ready to do some way easy trad.
I'll be sport climbing first, i'm sure, though, because i think i will have all my quickdraws before i finish my nut collection..
So basically, the only advice i can give is settuing up toprope routes using nuts and stuff. Equalizing them, triple backup etc.. This way you can learn to trust yer gear, and it helps you get to know how to use them.
Following second on a lead climb would be great, however. If you don't know anyone who climbs trad, i think you have no choice but to go at it when YOU think you're ready.
|
|
|
|
|
beyond_gravity
May 5, 2002, 6:47 PM
Post #34 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2002
Posts: 5078
|
I didn't even take a course. I was only sporting 5.9, I hoped on a 5.4 and climbed 60 feet to a Tree and rapped down. I wasn't scared at all because I knew I wasn't going to fall. But I did have lots of experience scrambling on 5th class terrain with no rope so that probley helped, eh?
I dont think you really need a Mentor. you can tell how to set gear just by looking at the shape of it and carefully inspecting pictures in Rock and Ice.
Almost all of my technical skills have been self taught mainly because I dont know any experienced climbers. Use your gut feeling, it's held me back from pushing my grades, but it's also kept me alive.
Play Safe,
Jeremy
|
|
|
|
|
joemor
May 6, 2002, 12:47 AM
Post #35 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 3, 2001
Posts: 609
|
one basic rule...... with placements if you think to your self "that'll do" chance are it wont, every piece should be the most bomber possible. not to say you wont place dodgy pieces, but if u do makesure you find somewhere not to far away to put pro that will do.
joe
|
|
|
|
|
pelliott
May 6, 2002, 1:55 AM
Post #36 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 10, 2002
Posts: 317
|
You might try placing pro while leading sport. In some places where I climb the bolts are far apart and the route could use some more protection anyway between the first and second bolts especially to prevent a grounder. At least this way you could pull some pro and still fall on a bolt.
|
|
|
|
|
joemor
May 6, 2002, 3:35 AM
Post #37 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 3, 2001
Posts: 609
|
i thought that climbs were bolted because you couldnt climb them trad?
ah whats the world comming to?
joe
|
|
|
|
|
crux_clipper
May 6, 2002, 10:20 AM
Post #38 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 14, 2001
Posts: 531
|
Your almost becoming obsessive about your dislike for sport climbing. I'm a bit worried.
1. Never say 'she'll be right', cos' 'she' wont.
2. Never climb at your limit on your first lead
3. Never place gear half assed. Always place the best possible peice before moving up.
|
|
|
|
|
pelliott
May 6, 2002, 1:59 PM
Post #39 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 10, 2002
Posts: 317
|
I have to clarify. Perhaps it wouldn't be possible on just any crag to place pro while clipping bolts. I usually go to a limestone cliff to climb in Red Wing, MN. The bolts are there because many climbers don't feel comfortable placing pro in limestone.
|
|
|
|
|
quickclips
May 6, 2002, 2:48 PM
Post #40 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2002
Posts: 477
|
I really want to get into trad, but where can I take classes, and how would I find a mentor. I'm a college student so I'm broke, but I'm addicted to the sport. I typically climb devils lake in WI and Wild Iowa in Montecello IA. I'm either going to be in Columbus OH (not much climbing) or Milwaukee WI (some indoor and devils lake is about 2 hours). If anyone knows where I can take a class or even is willing to teach an eager student. Please PM me. Thanks for all your help on this topic and others in the past.
|
|
|
|
|
kman
May 7, 2002, 8:50 AM
Post #41 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 16, 2001
Posts: 2561
|
Whoa...this thread is still getting replies! Thanks again for the advice people. I have lead about 8 or so routes so far and am having a blast. Trad rocks!!!
|
|
|
|
|
robscate
May 8, 2002, 5:59 AM
Post #42 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 16, 2000
Posts: 348
|
I led a 5.7 trad route after having only followed up a 5.8 route. Prior to both route I had spent numerous hours standing firmly on the ground a placing pro in various rocks for practice.
Rob c
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
May 8, 2002, 6:34 AM
Post #43 of 43
(4357 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
Go lead something! If you can follow 5.10 or 5.11, then you shouldn't have any trouble with leading a 5.7-5.8, or better (watch out for those Old School 5.9s in the Valley, though....).
If you understand how to place pro and set up the belay at the top, GO FOR IT! Take an easy climb first, to settle your nerves, then just keep at it.
The only reason someone with your ability shouldn't lead trad is if they are uncomfortable with placing the pro. If that's that case, then go lead a 5.4 and sew it up for practice.
Then again, if the rock you're on is hard to protect (loose, flared tiny cracks, whatever), then it might be a good idea to either hold back or go somewhere else.
|
|
|
|
|
|
