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gigz5
May 18, 2008, 2:01 AM
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I need some help putting together the ultimate rack. It's my first so I'm starting with nothing. Cost aside, what mix and size of cams, hexes, nuts, and tri cams would I need to create the ultimate 1st rack. Any help would be appreciated.
The areas that I have been trad climbing are: The New, The Red, Gunks, Seneca. These are the areas that I will spend most of my time.
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reno
May 18, 2008, 2:20 AM
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*sigh*
Upper right corner of any page on RC.com, you'll see "Search" then a drop down (default is "Forums" then a blank box to enter text.
Start there. This topic has been covered more times than I care to count.
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MikeSaint
May 18, 2008, 2:37 AM
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gigz5 wrote: I need some help putting together the ultimate rack. It's my first so I'm starting with nothing. Cost aside, what mix and size of cams, hexes, nuts, and tri cams would I need to create the ultimate 1st rack. Any help would be appreciated. The areas that I have been trad climbing are: The New, The Red, Gunks, Seneca. These are the areas that I will spend most of my time.
It might be best to ask the locals/ frequent visitors what they feel the best rack for those locations are.
By the way, only 84.4% believe them if whether they're accurate statistics or not. 
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brownie710
May 19, 2008, 12:42 PM
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here is my thought regarding active/passive gear assuming you've got other stuff like nut tools/biners/etc.
Active-
00-3 Metolius ultralight powercams or master cams
.75-3 Black Diamond Camalots
Tricams- pink, red,brown
Passive-
Black diamond Stoppers- 3-13
A few of the BD Microstoppers (not the smallest sizes that are only good for bodyweight)
Some people will talk about needed hexes but when i first started i was informed that this led to the telltale clinking know as "the call of the gumby" They might be awesome but i've never used them nor been in a position where the above stuff was not useful. This includes seconding and leading(this is my first season leading so take the above advice with a grain of skepticism)
Good luck!
Edit: I just saw that you will climb in the gunks, this rack was what i bought at the advice of friends who are long time gunks locals (they are also the ones who explained the "call of the gumby") They also climb with aliens but that issue has been beat to death on this site and i honestly will not buy any since all of the hoopla.
(This post was edited by brownie710 on May 19, 2008, 2:48 PM)
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notapplicable
May 19, 2008, 1:31 PM
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Yeahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
RACK THREAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
awsome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You know you love it Reno, you know ya do.
(This post was edited by notapplicable on May 19, 2008, 1:32 PM)
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Arrogant_Bastard
May 19, 2008, 8:46 PM
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gigz5 wrote: I need some help putting together the ultimate rack... The areas that I have been trad climbing are...
What have you been using? What on the rack haven't you been using? What do you feel you've been missing? Which brand's of whatever various pieces do you like more or less than others you've been using?
Free thinking really is that easy. Or you could just follow Reno's idea and look up any of the other gazillion threads that have covered this exact issue, at those exact places.
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minexploration
May 19, 2008, 9:39 PM
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You will get a million answers to the best rack. One thing that I would like to throw in is don't underestimate the importance of slings. The different cams, nuts, ect. sold by name brands are all solid and you don't really have to worry about them. But, being able to properly sling the gear that you place is very important. If you think you have enough slings buy six more. I use them all the time.
Just my 2 cents.
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climbingtrash
May 19, 2008, 10:18 PM
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This...
And then some...just my 2 cents.
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notapplicable
May 20, 2008, 12:38 AM
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reno wrote: notapplicable wrote: You know you love it Reno, you know ya do. Yeah, you're right. I do love it. In much the same way I just LOVE sticking a finger in my ass to wipe the hemorrhoids with Preparation H ointment. 
Good god man, where is the CRINGING emoticon when you need one.
Not a pretty word picture sir, not a pretty word picture at all.
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granite_grrl
May 20, 2008, 5:22 PM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: climbingtrash wrote: This... [image]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f277/climbingtrash/Myrack.jpg[/image] And then some...just my 2 cents. 1 set of nuts to 50 some cams? ...and hardly any extendo draws. Hmmmm, splitter cracks much?
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jon06
May 20, 2008, 5:32 PM
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reno wrote: notapplicable wrote: You know you love it Reno, you know ya do. Yeah, you're right. I do love it. In much the same way I just LOVE sticking a finger in my ass to wipe the hemorrhoids with Preparation H ointment. It's the kind of love that grows on a man, ya dig?
No, I don't. maybe with time though.
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acorneau
May 20, 2008, 6:53 PM
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I can't believe no one has done this yet...
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salamanizer
May 21, 2008, 12:52 AM
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Mine has suited me through all situations.
So shoot for something like this.
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reno
May 21, 2008, 3:52 AM
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Bottom of the pic, just right of the hexes, about dead center:
Are those Edelrid Bivo 2 cams?
I've got one, bought on eBay, and hanging on my office wall next to other "really old climbing gear" stuff.
Very cool.
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salamanizer
May 21, 2008, 4:24 AM
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Right you are...
They are Bivo Banditos I believe. Bought a whole set a couple years ago off ebay. They're very rare but I've seen them show up from time to time.
Crudest cam I've ever seen. Makes those Russian Patrinko World cams looke like Swiss clocks.
If better engineered and made smaller like blue/green/yellow Alien size, they would be the narrowest and probably lightest cam on the market. Not sure how well they'd work though.
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gigz5
May 21, 2008, 12:02 PM
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I've read many of the other threads on trad gear, I just love talking about gear, seeing others gear, hear what others have to say even if its been said before, to me it always new. Thanks everyone for sharing, i love it.
After the input here, this is what i've gotten to far:
I have a smatering of cams, little to fairly big (i don't understand why there isn't universal sizing on cams) 15 total, bd camelots, metolious power cams, trango. I was deal shopping.
I'd say 1/2 in inch spread on the smallest cam, to a #9 metolious power cam.
bd stoppers 3 to 13
A couple hexes, #8 & #10 for bail out pieces
a shat load of slings, as advised, 24" and 48"
I already have a lot of quickdraws so no need to buy any more
20 extra carabiners, a mix of different brands, all wire gate
I'm gonna lead my first trad route tomorrow!!
just kidding.
One more thing, i noticed on ebay there are a lot of carabiners made by "Fusion", does know anything about these? are they credible?
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CaptainPolution
May 25, 2008, 4:00 AM
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salamanizer wrote: Mine has suited me through all situations. So shoot for something like this. [IMG]http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o293/salamanizer1/ha.jpg[/IMG]
LOL before I looked who posted this I saw the valley cams and was like, fuck, i knew it!. picked up some pitons today. number 7 lost arrow and a 1" angle. b dogg got a knifeblade and a 3/4 angle and a #8 lost arrow. hella ready to send.
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petsfed
May 25, 2008, 4:18 AM
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The ultimate rack is one that suits the areas you're climbing at the best, for easier routes.
A good place to start is a set of nuts and a single set of cams from about tips/tight fingers up to tight fists. Don't bother with the very small or the very big. Have at least half as many slings as you do pieces on this initial rack, maybe even parity. Pick the cam brand to match the area you climb (so go by what your partners use).
If you have to ask here what a good first rack is, there is nothing, not a goddammed thing that you need doubles in, as there are no routes that you should be getting on that would require it of you.
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gigz5
May 27, 2008, 3:24 AM
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Thanks for the input. Got a starter rack of nuts and cams, nothing to big or too small but everything in the middle. I got to play a little with them this last weekend at The New. Threw up some top ropes over some cracks. Good fun, thnx yall.
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anthonymason
May 29, 2008, 1:23 AM
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Thats all you have?
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uni_jim
May 29, 2008, 3:37 AM
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My ultimate rack would be 5-11mm cord with two strand figure eights, 5-11mm cord with single eights, and 9-11mm cord with monkeys fists. I would also have various legnths of slings, and an oval biner for every pice of pro.
- seriously, i want to start climbing like that, that would be so cool.
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austin.timm
May 29, 2008, 4:41 AM
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climbingtrash wrote: This... [image]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f277/climbingtrash/Myrack.jpg[/image] And then some...just my 2 cents.
And THAT my friends is an aid rack.
Gotta love quadruples.
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petsfed
May 29, 2008, 3:33 PM
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austin.timm wrote: climbingtrash wrote: This... [image]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f277/climbingtrash/Myrack.jpg[/image] And then some...just my 2 cents. And THAT my friends is an aid rack. Gotta love quadruples.
Looked like an anemic Creek rack to me.
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climbingtrash
May 30, 2008, 1:41 AM
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petsfed wrote: austin.timm wrote: climbingtrash wrote: This... [image]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f277/climbingtrash/Myrack.jpg[/image] And then some...just my 2 cents. And THAT my friends is an aid rack. Gotta love quadruples. Looked like an anemic Creek rack to me.
Anemic? Why...because there aren't any Camalots on it?
Quads? pffft...I'm 5 and 6 deep in individual hand sizes and if you're aiding hand cracks you just as well take up golf.
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petsfed
May 30, 2008, 2:44 AM
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Nah, cuz there no really off brands in there.
Its not a creek rack until you have a few kongs or something to leaven it a bit.
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iclimbhigh01
Jun 14, 2008, 4:01 AM
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I know a place where you can get excellent gear at low prices. Try http://stores.ebay.com/ShopEZ4you. You can get sling combos with quickdraws, bolt hangers, carabiners, etc.
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