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Equallette with 4 strand powerpoint
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majid_sabet


Jun 6, 2008, 4:39 PM
Post #26 of 33 (6897 views)
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390

Re: [spikeddem] hopefully not Tufa King Much III (equalette-esque anchor) [In reply to]
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spikeddem wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
failure = fall = death = your stuff on ebay

Thanks for not being so ambiguous. It's a good help considering how great your English is in the first place, Major.

Just playing. :)

Edit: Ironically, I added a forgotten word.

You see, you think it is ok to have failure in anchor setup cause there is always a #2 or # 3 point which will take the load in event one goes down.

What I am trying to tell you is this; It is not ok to have failure in anchor setup and you should never treat a real climbing anchor setup as an experiment especially when your life is depending on it. Anchor failure or any type of failure in climbing could result with sever consequences.

So repeat after me;

I build myself a bomber anchor with no failure ever
I build myself a bomber anchor with no failure ever
I build myself a bomber anchor with no failure ever
I build myself a bomber anchor with no failure ever
I build myself a bomber anchor with no failure ever
I build myself a bomber anchor with no failure ever


Partner j_ung


Jun 6, 2008, 4:41 PM
Post #27 of 33 (6895 views)
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690

Re: [reg] Equallette with 4 strand powerpoint [In reply to]
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reg wrote:
j_ung, is this a serious effort on your part?

Only half. Like I said, I'm not going to forsake rope anchors for this any time soon. I think it's a neat idea, just like a lot of the others, but it lacks the simple elegance of an atomic clip.


majid_sabet


Jun 6, 2008, 4:59 PM
Post #28 of 33 (6885 views)
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Re: [adatesman] Equallette with 4 strand powerpoint [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
Wow, Jay. That's... Um, quite the knot you've got there. Wink

Give this one a try. Take your basic ELET and throw a pair of overhands onto the sling to give it two unequal sides. You get 3 full strength loops/shelves (possibly 4 if you use 2 runners) and is dead simple to tie (no real need to keep it pre-tied). I didn't have cord lying around at the moment, so here it is with a pair of runners instead.

[image]http://www.shariconglobal.com/misc/pulltesting/anchors/elet.jpg[/image]

And since it looks like I already posted a pic of the standard ELET, here it is for comparison:
[image]http://www.shariconglobal.com/misc/pulltesting/anchors/anchor.jpg[/image]


adatesman

Can you remove the right side anchor on your first image and load the power point and post a photo. I just want to see how ugly that power point will look like with those spectra slings and knots once load is shifted.


skinner


Jun 6, 2008, 7:51 PM
Post #29 of 33 (6837 views)
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747

Re: [j_ung] hopefully not Tufa King Much III (equalette-esque anchor) [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:







My observation, based on 30+ years of climbing experience in all disciplines, with the exception of sport being rather limited by choice.. There are three things that jumped off the page when I saw j_ungs photos.

1) judging by the patches in his lawn, this dude probably has a dog.
2) It looks like he's got more clover then grass in some places.
3) He probably doesn't care about his lawn, and would rather be out climbing or doing something climbing related then pushing a lawn mower.

It gave your post an instant credibility boost.
Wink


(This post was edited by skinner on Jun 6, 2008, 8:01 PM)


Partner j_ung


Jun 6, 2008, 8:18 PM
Post #30 of 33 (6821 views)
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Re: [skinner] hopefully not Tufa King Much III (equalette-esque anchor) [In reply to]
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OMG, how easy am I to read?


dlintz


Jun 18, 2008, 4:29 AM
Post #31 of 33 (6416 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2002
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Re: [majid_sabet] Equallette with 4 strand powerpoint [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
adatesman wrote:
Wow, Jay. That's... Um, quite the knot you've got there. Wink

Give this one a try. Take your basic ELET and throw a pair of overhands onto the sling to give it two unequal sides. You get 3 full strength loops/shelves (possibly 4 if you use 2 runners) and is dead simple to tie (no real need to keep it pre-tied). I didn't have cord lying around at the moment, so here it is with a pair of runners instead.

[image]http://www.shariconglobal.com/misc/pulltesting/anchors/elet.jpg[/image]

And since it looks like I already posted a pic of the standard ELET, here it is for comparison:
[image]http://www.shariconglobal.com/misc/pulltesting/anchors/anchor.jpg[/image]


adatesman

Can you remove the right side anchor on your first image and load the power point and post a photo. I just want to see how ugly that power point will look like with those spectra slings and knots once load is shifted.

Why would you care to see this Majid? Afterall you only build anchors where nothing ever fails?

d.


markt


Jun 30, 2008, 2:42 PM
Post #32 of 33 (6112 views)
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Registered: Jun 5, 2008
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Re: [dlintz] Equallette with 4 strand powerpoint [In reply to]
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I came up with this, just messing around. The cord is different diameters, only because it was all that I had. The arms would work just like a regular equallette. The only concern that I could see was in the case of failure in an entire side, the overhand knots might roll and come apart. Any thoughts?



or with fisherman's knots, which is bulky, but with all 7mm cord it might not be to bad.



(This post was edited by markt on Jun 30, 2008, 8:08 PM)


shockabuku


Jun 30, 2008, 3:01 PM
Post #33 of 33 (6103 views)
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868

Re: [markt] Equallette with 4 strand powerpoint [In reply to]
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markt wrote:
I came up with this, just messing around. The cord is different diameters, only because it was all that I had. The arms would work just like a regular equallette. The only concern that I could see was in the case of failure in an entire side, the overhand knots might roll and come apart. Any thoughts?
edited to add picture

Picture?

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