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karma274
Jan 20, 2003, 6:18 AM
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Heh. The coffee quote is classic.
And word to whomever said that Ben Moon was in a lousy position to downgrade Action Directe.
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okieterry
Mar 1, 2003, 3:06 AM
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God....Kalcario, you are sooo right!!!
You should have seen him in Boulder!
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dewiman
Mar 1, 2003, 3:22 AM
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Here's a great story my room mate in college told me anout Wolfy. My buddy was visiting his brother in Germany and got introduced to Kurt adn Wolfy by a friend. They went climbing in the Frankejura, and both Kurt and Wolfy climbed 5.10's blindfolded, and with one hand, and on the way down from the crag Wolfies car (which had no accelerator return spring, but instead had a piece of twine from the gas pedal up and over the rear view mirror, and tied to a brick) went totally out of control and they screamed down the road passing everyone on the wrong side of the road, on the shoulder , and screaming with excitement and loving every minut of it. Wish I had the chance to see him climb. Rest in piece.
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xanx
Mar 1, 2003, 4:48 AM
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that could explain the car accident that ended his life...
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mtengaio
Nov 10, 2003, 7:18 PM
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it was Ron Kauk that doubled Stallone in Cliffhanger.
Ron Kauk got turned down for the fillm becuase he couldn't bulk up although, he did alot of help with the film crew. Wolfgang is the one you see on film. The director wanted him to use steriods to hasten the bulk up but Wolfgang refused and ended up bulking up naturally anyway. Stallone was so impressed with Wolfganf initially due to the fact that he could do one arm, one finger pullups! Needless to say, Wolfgang Gullich was and still is the greatest ROCK climber ever!
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melekzek
Nov 10, 2003, 8:01 PM
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In reply to: You don't climb then go for coffee, coffee is part of climbing
This is one of my all time favorite quotes...
In reply to: For interst he also broke his back falling from Masters Edge E7 6c. He climbed up to the gear, came down, got his mates to test it by weighting the rope, then fell off the crux and the gear ripped. Doh
Than he came back and free soloed it.... how cool is that...
I found "Life In The Vertical" through ebay, it is an excellent book. I wish I got the original german copy though, english translation is not that great. Great pics in large format makes it worth
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climbsomething
Nov 10, 2003, 8:12 PM
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And, I believe Kauk was Tom Cruise's double in MI2?
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muncher
Nov 10, 2003, 9:19 PM
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Just getting back to the clown who claimed that Action Direct may be closer to 8c+ than 9a. I am not aware that Ben Moon made those comments but if he did it is a bit rich since he has never climbed it. Everyone else who has climbed it or attempted it considers it to very solid for the grade and these are climbers that have actually sent other 9a's, eg Pou, Graham, Huber, Loskot...... all say 9a, (has Moon sent 9a? I am not sure). The fact is WG raised the bar in climbing difficulty and his most famous route, Action Direct, is considered benchmark 9a.
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erdeneruc
Nov 10, 2003, 9:37 PM
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Wolfgang was a very modest and low key personality who accomplished a great deal in the time that he had.
I first met him in Yosemite in 1986 after having read about him briefly before my first visit to the Valley. It was fun to run into this by then famous climber both at the camp and at the top of Seperate Reality.
I was heading down to the top of Separate Reality with two other friends in early September of 1986 when we ran into Wolfgang and Kurt who were just returning back to their cars. We hangdogged and played on that roof for hours, taking pictures while dreaming of returning one day to send it. I later saw pictures of Wolfgang free soloing Seperate Reality and have always wondered since if he had just sent the free solo just as we were approaching the site. I will never know...
Another noteworthy achievement that is not often mentioned is that Wolfgang (and also Kurt I believe) received a medal of honor from the German Chancellor for life time athletic achievement.
A nice memory about a kind person that has stuck with me over the years.
Erden.
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alwaysforward
Dec 1, 2003, 9:53 AM
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I just watched Cliffhanger. The opening seen with Gullich is awesome heh. The guy styles the roof with the chalk blows. Pimp.
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s_darris
Feb 23, 2004, 4:43 AM
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...was anyone else in camp 4 the night ..WG and friends stole bar stools from the bar and brought them back to camp.....?...
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gunsmoke
Dec 5, 2004, 11:11 PM
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With all due respect, you are both wrong in one way or another about both Güllich and Kauk.
Wolfgang did indeed double for Stallone. I remember in an interview in Climbing, where Wolf talked about turning down the offer of steroids to help him bulk up to double for Stallone.
Because he was lifting so much weight for his work as a double, he would often make comments about his fore arms getting pumped out while shooting his sequence.
And Ron also doubled in the film, but he doubled for the female lead in her climbing sequences.
Wolfgang died shortly before the film Cliffhanger was finished in post production. If you watch to the end of the credits, the producers offer a memoriam to him.
Anyway, I started climbing in the late 80's when Wolf and Kurt were on a whirlwind world climbing tour, visting the Gunks and climbing in Yos., Patagonia, China, Australia, etc.
Like others, I have a route of his that I admire. It's called "Ghetto Blaster". It used to take several days for even the most accomplished climbers to figure out the first move. It was made up of one finger dead points.
For those of us who were around when he was alive, Wolfgang Güllich was a climbing idol for many of us and a legend to all of us. And not just because of his prowse as a climber, but also because of the way he conducted himself in a sport full of egomaniacs. He was always a gentleman, humble and thoughtful in his responses and remarks.
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guangzhou
Dec 5, 2004, 11:39 PM
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Let's not forget about WG's accent of "Riders of the Storm innPAtagonia.
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adnix
Dec 6, 2004, 1:06 PM
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He turned more into alpine stuff in his late years.
Free ascent of Yugoslavian route on Nameless Tower (1988)
Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (1989)
Riders on the Storm on Central Tower of Paine (1991)
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thebingman07
Jul 4, 2005, 11:41 PM
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Know what makes a climber great? Is who he/she was a stunt double for. All climbers who stunt double are better than climbers who don't stunt double. It's science.
Who was the stunt double for Tom Cruz in mission impossible?? I think he is obviously the greatest climber in the history of the world for his incredibly efficient technique, using ill advised moves such as reverse dynos and resting in the iron cross position. BEST CLIMBER EVER!
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dustehodet
Aug 13, 2005, 9:33 AM
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Hi everyone. I had to register just to give you a link to a movie with WG and co, in which he climbs seperate reality:
:arrow: http://climbing-area.info/photos/videos/klettern/long-movie/sportspiegel.wmv
Climb on! :P
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maltabiabl
Aug 13, 2005, 1:57 PM
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Wolfgangs younger brother died in a climbing accident...his parents wanted him to stop climbing but he didn't.
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overlord
Aug 13, 2005, 2:23 PM
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added the url tags for lazy ppl.
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426
Feb 24, 2006, 6:55 PM
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In reply to: I just watched Cliffhanger. The opening seen with Gullich is awesome heh. The guy styles the roof with the chalk blows. Pimp.
You are correct. They bolted on holds for him. He was pretty laconic about the danger factor. Some of the stuntmen "puff up" (whine and complain) for more $$$. Not Mr. Gullich.
Groundbreaking. Cutting edge. Not even these words really describe for me what Gullich did.
http://www.mountain.ru/..._WolfgangGullich.jpg
Kids, don't try this at home.
http://edicionesdesnivel.com/roca/images/Gullich.jpg
PS-that movie link was awesome...check out Midnight Lightning (SANS PADS!) about 4 1/2 minutes in.
http://www.cac.or.kr/...WolfgangGullich2.jpg
Besides being a "sport" climber, he did some pretty rad stuff in the mountains. One of my favorite images is him on Trango Tower, hanging of a hook, drilling a bolt, wearing boreal ninjas with socks....
He also did some "pretty hard cracks"...like the 2nd ascent of "Grand Illusion." Read his bio "A life in the Vertical" for the story on that one...
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mdude
Feb 25, 2006, 4:35 AM
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I was the stunt double for Cruise.
MM
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bighigaz
Feb 25, 2006, 5:49 AM
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Indeed it does.
Not that anyone cares, but it also lists Jeff O'Haco! He's from WINSLOW, Arizona, and my Mom dated him when they were in High School! I guess that's the closest I've come to being a part of a Hollywood movie... 8^) :roll: :shock: :wink: 8^)
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