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Hennessey
Apr 6, 2008, 8:35 PM
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Has anyone tried out the new Evolv Optimus Prime's?
If so how is the fit? How is the sizing compared to other Evolv shoes? How does the shoe preform?
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irregularpanda
Apr 6, 2008, 8:39 PM
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Hennessey wrote: How does the shoe preform?
I haven't tried them out, but with a name like optimus prime how could they be anything but perfect?
Does it come in fire-engine red?
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getout87
Jun 10, 2008, 2:18 PM
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Bump.
Anybody have any experience now that they are actually out?
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Adrian_Falcus
Jun 10, 2008, 2:40 PM
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The Optimus Prime and Optimus size fairly consistent with the rest of evolv's lineup. Both shoes are more aggressive than I imagined they would be, but do not have the down turned toe that the DTP series has. Both shoes perform well, good edging and smearing particularly. I prefer the Optimus for bouldering, the ridiculous amount of rubber on the toe makes them great for toe hooking/bicycling.
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getout87
Jun 10, 2008, 4:44 PM
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Thats exactly what I wanted to hear. thanks adrian.
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bimmer3ci
Jun 29, 2008, 2:56 AM
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so has anyone climbed in the optimus primes yet? are they the most amazing things ever? thoughts?
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Hennessey
Jun 29, 2008, 3:32 AM
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bimmer3ci wrote: so has anyone climbed in the optimus primes yet? are they the most amazing things ever? thoughts?
Once broken in they are pretty comfortable to climb in. They work great on steep walls and overhangs
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wraith
Jun 29, 2008, 10:20 PM
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They hurt my toes in the toe box. I think it has to do with the width of the box in that all your toes are spread out evenly. Weird feeling. Tried on the Miura VS. Totally different sensation.
Evolv rocks though. Great company. I love my Pontas!!!
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sungam
Jun 30, 2008, 8:42 AM
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wraith wrote: They hurt my toes in the toe box. I think it has to do with the width of the box in that all your toes are spread out evenly. Weird feeling. Tried on the Miura VS. Totally different sensation. Evolv rocks though. Great company. I love my Pontas!!!
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brijoel
Jun 30, 2008, 10:58 AM
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sungam wrote: My friend got free shoes from them for a while, but (his opinion) the rubber was so shitty that he just bought shoes instead. He is a gym monkey, though, so perhaps they are better outdoors?
I've been forced to be a bit of a gym monkey this past year as well. Short of climbing on polished metal, their rubber works pretty damn well. Five.Ten. is a little stickier, but it was never near enough that it made the difference between completing something or not.
With that said though, I've yet to slip on anything in the optimus lineup yet (probably this week), mostly because I'm very skeptical of a shoe made for overhangs that doesn't have a nice super asymetrical, pointed toe to really pull with.
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angry
Jun 30, 2008, 11:04 PM
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Two things here.
Evolve Rubber.
I've climbed on almost nothing but trax for the last 5 years. I don't have a single complaint. If my shoe slips, it's not the fault of the rubber. Those that complain about trax (or stealth, XSV, madrock, fusion, or anything similar) are blaming their own shortcomings on gear. I hate to say that because I really do want to blame my own inability on my gear. It's really a fantastic excuse. It's however total BS though.
Now to the Optimus Primes. I don't know. I did climb for the first time in my Optimus today. Mostly vertical to just past vertical, techy little sport stuff. They really surprised me. They are soft, once they get warm are quite comfortable, and are very capable. They weirded me out, I was climbing just fine in them, totally confident on the feet, and not in a pair of downturned sport shoes. We'll see how they do on more varied terrain but on a 12c (some people call it 13a but they are wrong) sport route with super shitty feet, I had no complaints.
I'd guess the Prime's to be similar.
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alexfritz
Jun 30, 2008, 11:52 PM
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So about the new Optimus Primes.
First off; the the are obviously down turned, so great for steep problems, but they work pretty well on slab also. The stick to basically everything, from big jugs to small little nubs.
Another, the toe box is fairly thick, meaning a lot of rubber, but that does not really affect your climbing that much. You will more than likely be able to feel the thickness when you first start wearing them, but no harm done.
They loosen up pretty fast, but since they are down-turned, I do not recommend just walking around in them like some shoes; they will hurt after a while, but that is normal. The shoes will become comfortable though, so do not freak so fast.
I have not been able to test the heel the much, because I have only had them for about a week or more now, but it seems perfectly well to me.
I am sure there is a lot more I could add to the review about these shoes, but I will stop. If anyone has any problems with these, or disagrees, please feel perfectly free to state otherwise.
Hope this helps everyone.
Evolve has done it again! :D
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brijoel
Jul 1, 2008, 8:37 AM
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Totally agree with you about the rubber Angry.
Granted, my concerns about the shoe design are not about whether they're downturned last or not; they most certainly are (though not a downturned toe).
My query goes to the rounded "moderately" asymetric toe on the shoes... I guess with every other shoe I've tried, I've gotten used to a sharp toe for pockets and pulling.
...Just wondering if that decision to chop the sharp toe takes away from pockets and pulling on the steeper stuff.
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vegastradguy
Jul 1, 2008, 8:38 PM
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sungam wrote: My friend got free shoes from them for a while, but (his opinion) the rubber was so shitty that he just bought shoes instead. He is a gym monkey, though, so perhaps they are better outdoors?
Trax went through a bad batch of rubber some years back, managed to get a bad rap over it with some folks. i think it happened very early on for them.
like angry, i've been climbing on Trax for 4 or 5 years now (i resole with Yos Bum) on all my shoes at some point, and i've never had an issue with it.
that said, i do not buy into the one rubber is better than another thing, although i will say that mad rocks needs some breaking in time- its like it comes with some kind of skin on it that needs to be worn off before the stuff with stick to anything....but after that, its as good as any other rubber i've used.
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mcernie
Sep 24, 2008, 3:55 PM
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do the primes have a synthetic upper? to phrase it another way, should they be fit more for comfort out of the box or are they going to stretch significantly? i had defy's about 4 years ago, and they didn't stretch a bit.
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sidepull
Sep 24, 2008, 4:25 PM
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vegastradguy wrote: that said, i do not buy into the one rubber is better than another thing
The fact that people are still talking about it says more about the efficacy of 5.10's marketing than their product.
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dlintz
Sep 24, 2008, 4:54 PM
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mcernie wrote: do the primes have a synthetic upper? to phrase it another way, should they be fit more for comfort out of the box or are they going to stretch significantly? i had defy's about 4 years ago, and they didn't stretch a bit.
All five of the Evolv models (synthetic) I've owned have had little to no stretch. This leads me to believe that the Optimus Prime wouldn't be any different.
d.
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vegastradguy
Oct 1, 2008, 6:33 PM
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the primes not only have a synthetic upper, they're covered in rubber as well (very little upper shows through the rubber). they dont stretch at all.
been climbing in them for a few weeks now- really like them for steep face climbing where the camber really kicks in.
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NO0B
Oct 2, 2008, 3:41 AM
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Can anyone compare the Optimus or Optimus Prime with the Predator?
Thanks.
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Adrian_Falcus
Oct 2, 2008, 5:37 AM
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The Optimus is not as downturned as the Predator, and it feels as such in my opinion. The more asymmetrical toe box of the Predators gives the shoe much more of a point than the Optimus. Smearing felt slightly more confident in my Optimus' I would say, but both shoes are great in my opinion. The Talon however, is still my favorite.
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byrclimb12
Feb 15, 2009, 3:04 PM
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As a climber with a case of mortons toe, i dont fit into a whole lot of shoes. These shoes really surprised me. Although they're symetrical they still perform with sergical precision. Theyre great for edging and roofing and the heel is solid. One thing i like is the non stretch layer and the little extra room for my fourth and fith toe. As for sizing a single size down from my street shoe gave me a performance fit. Overall these shoes are a full 5/5 for me.
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Rubicon
Feb 26, 2009, 10:03 PM
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The Optimus Primes were actually really comfortable for how tight I tried them on at my gym's Evolve expo. they climbed pretty well and the symmetric toebox didn't give me any issues in performance.
Very nice shoe overall.
But I'm a poor college student and $20 Mad Rocks are the SHIT!!
gotta love paying $20 for a $90 bad ass shoe
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kvochatzer
Mar 19, 2009, 4:40 AM
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Have you size-compared the Optimus Prime with any other shoes by Evolv? Since there are none locally I'm wondering if you might have the same size or larger than another pair of Evolv's like the Evo, Defy or Pontus. I wear a size 9 Evo and was told by Evolv to get a 9.5 in the OP for aggressive fit or 10 for a more comfortable, but snug fit.
Cheers for any info on size comparisons of other Evolv's.
Karl
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vegastradguy
Mar 19, 2009, 6:04 AM
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kvochatzer wrote: Have you size-compared the Optimus Prime with any other shoes by Evolv? Since there are none locally I'm wondering if you might have the same size or larger than another pair of Evolv's like the Evo, Defy or Pontus. I wear a size 9 Evo and was told by Evolv to get a 9.5 in the OP for aggressive fit or 10 for a more comfortable, but snug fit. Cheers for any info on size comparisons of other Evolv's. Karl
i wear a size 9 in the pontas for a comfortable fit and can barely tolerate the primes in a 9.5, but if i went to a 10, there'd be too much dead air in the shoe. check my review of the shoes for pictures.
i also wear a size 9 in just about every other flavor of evolv shoe that i've tried (predator not included).
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kvochatzer
Mar 19, 2009, 1:13 PM
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Cheers for the reply. I saw the photo - it gave me a good idea however the comparison to other known Evolv's seems to give me the best info for personal fit. I'm pretty comfortable in a size 9 Evo, and I can manage to squeeze down into an 8.5 without damage to my feet - well at least not for one climb at a time. Judging from your experience then my best fit is likely a 9.5 in the OP. I've got Morton's foot with the third toe on the left foot longest while the second toe on the right foot is longest.
Again, cheers, and say hello to the RR climbs for me - my first trip out there got me back into climbing and leading sport.
Karl
Austin, TX
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