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Spidermite
Mar 27, 2009, 8:15 PM
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Just wondering what people were at after your first year of climbing ? .7's .10's ?
I feel like i'm taking steps backwards and not doing so well anymore.
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tigerlilly
Mar 27, 2009, 8:20 PM
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I'm entering my 3rd season of climbing and I still don't climb 5.10. Starting at 42 didn't help. Progress at your own pace. It doesn't matter how hard anyone else climbs. You can't be anyone else no matter how hard you try. If you aren't progressing with your current exercise plan, try something different.
Kathy
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Diablotin
Mar 27, 2009, 8:23 PM
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I'm at my first year mark and I can climb confidently most 5.11s (5.10+ on overhanging walls) at the gym I go to on lead. I also try to lead on 5.12 (no redpoint or onsight yet).
It will be my first time out this summer so I can't really tell you how I do on natural routes.
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gogounou
Mar 27, 2009, 8:36 PM
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Boston.
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ladyscarlett
Mar 27, 2009, 8:39 PM
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Just starting to thrash my way up the 5.8s - following, no lead.
but I've learned to sport lead, trad lead, set up trad anchors, belay someone 60lbs heavier than me, catch leader falls, clean routes placed by a leader over a foot taller than me, belay from the top, how to be comfy from a hanging belay, rope management, night climb...
and most importantly...to really enjoy the view from the top
It can get a little discouraging sometimes, but it helps me to remember that there is more to climbing than physically pulling/pushing oneself up the rock. Also, the rocks going to be there for a while, so we have some time!
have some fun out there!
ls
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kennoyce
Mar 27, 2009, 8:40 PM
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As was said, don't worry about how hard you are climbing, just worry about having fun. It seems like after my first year of climbing I was leading easy to mid 5.10's sport. I know people who are leading 5.12's after their first year, I also know people who have been climbing for years and have never gotten past 5.8 but still love climbing. Have fun and only worry about grades to increase the number of high quality climbs that you can do.
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cologman
Mar 27, 2009, 8:44 PM
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I was still lliving at home and trying to decide which piton was going to be my next purchase. That was also 42 years ago. I'll add that I climbed my most technically difficult grade a year ago. Take a breath, it will happen if you hang in there.
The bigger question is what are you climbing for, the grades or the love of it?
(This post was edited by cologman on Mar 27, 2009, 8:47 PM)
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coastal_climber
Mar 27, 2009, 9:22 PM
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cologman wrote: The bigger question is what are you climbing for, the grades or the love of it?
Camaraderie - nothing beats it!
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fxgranite
Mar 27, 2009, 9:24 PM
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Tendonitis in both elbows so bad I couldn't open doors and had to take the next 6 months off.
Yeah if I could go back to then I'd beat the ever loving shit outa myself
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jeepnphreak
Mar 27, 2009, 9:34 PM
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5.9 to maby 5.10a lead
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Spidermite
Mar 27, 2009, 9:44 PM
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I was just feeling like the slow kid in class or something being that my best onsight was a 5.9 nearly 5 months after i started climbing and that same climb I cant even lead it up now 7 months later.
This month is my 1 year month...
On TR I climb around 5.11 but leading to me is a different story trying to trust the gear. I still haven't taken any big falls but whats big ? I've fallen ~ 10 feet on sport and almost made a mess in my pants, that was my first fall though.
over the winter months i went ahead and got a hangboard and promptly mounted it up as well as reading as much as my brain can absorb.
5 months after i started i could belay from the top, hanging belay, catch leader falls and had learned how to set up a cordelette among other things and I still remember all of that stuff but coming into this season I'm discouraged that i'm stuck on my plateau and stuck on all the same routes we've climbed a hundred times.
I'm mainly climbing to be out in nature and enjoy it. have fun with the buds and go new and cool places i've never been. but i want to be sufficient and not held back by fear and higher difficulties than i'm used to.
i like on here being able to keep track of what i've climbed but some locations or routes aren't on here or i've just been to lazy to do anything about it.
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krusher4
Mar 27, 2009, 10:21 PM
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this is the best answer
for me it would be V-fun....ummm ...&...5.fun.....
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roquentin
Mar 27, 2009, 10:26 PM
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Whatever my gym calls V2 (I don't lead or top rope). I suck, but I'm ok with that.
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angry
Mar 27, 2009, 10:32 PM
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After a year or so I had a better understanding of what could kill me. So even though I felt like a better climber, I wasn't getting up anything harder.
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kennoyce
Mar 27, 2009, 10:42 PM
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sounds like technically you're doing fine. you just need to work on your lead head. I would suggest that you should go to the overhanging section of your gym's lead wall, or an overhanging sport climb, and just practice falling a few times. Start with your waist just 6 inches above the last bolt and let go, do that once or twice, and move up to 2 or 3 feet. Once you have taken a few controlled short falls, you will start to trust the gear more and not be to bad. Just so you know, I used to nearly mess my pants just climbing above the bolt when I started leading and lets not even talk about falling. Now 12 years later I took a good 30' whipper last week and it didn't even phase me. Just go have fun and take a change of pants with you.
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UpwrdlyMobile
Mar 27, 2009, 11:16 PM
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I started climbing just before turning 46 and am at about the two year mark now. At a year I was pretty comfy with gym-level .8s and .9s and green bouldering problems, depending on who set them. I could start, but rarely finish 10a and 10b routes as I flailed up them, bleeding energy like crazy. I have made great progress (leading now, indoors and out, and starting to trad climb on the low 5s), but at times I feel like I have hit a wall - pardon the pun. It helps me to watch "graceful" climbers and visualize my way through the route. Then I try REALLY HARD to position myself better before making those reaches. I'm afraid I'll be forever "work in progress", but hey, aren't we all? 
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Spidermite
Mar 27, 2009, 11:18 PM
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kennoyce wrote: sounds like technically you're doing fine. you just need to work on your lead head. I would suggest that you should go to the overhanging section of your gym's lead wall, or an overhanging sport climb, and just practice falling a few times. Start with your waist just 6 inches above the last bolt and let go, do that once or twice, and move up to 2 or 3 feet. Once you have taken a few controlled short falls, you will start to trust the gear more and not be to bad. Just so you know, I used to nearly mess my pants just climbing above the bolt when I started leading and lets not even talk about falling. Now 12 years later I took a good 30' whipper last week and it didn't even phase me. Just go have fun and take a change of pants with you.
i totally would at the gym but they make you take a rigorous lead test and my partner isn't up to par just yet so we cant take it. and i still have to teach him the soft catch method because my little fall was fairly abrasive with only 25 feet of rope out when he caught me hard style. and thats something I just learned about today on here..
a guy i met on here is taking me to a local climbing spot to learn to take some falls so i'm excited in a way but kind of scared too lol.
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rockandlice
Mar 27, 2009, 11:20 PM
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Not sure, it was ages ago. Maybe 5.9?
It's already been mentioned, but is the most important thing when it comes to climbing. Well, two things actually. Having fun, and being safe. You can push the "safe" boundries years down the road once you have a solid foundation.....if you want. There again though, it must be fun. Keep in mind "fun" can mean pissing your pants for some, and nothing of the sort for others.
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lofstromc
Mar 27, 2009, 11:28 PM
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After a year of climbing I had three new (fake) front teeth.
In the previous twelve months, I was climbing, even leading 5.10 sport climbs. My first trad lead sketched me out so much I fell and wound up almost toothless.
I'm better now.
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UpwrdlyMobile
Mar 27, 2009, 11:44 PM
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Nice advice. Not long ago I was in the gym, leading a pretty simple route. When I got to the anchor (about 30' up), I pulled a butt-load of slack to snap in. The next thing I know I was on my way back down. The foothold I had all my weight on spun out. I think the only thing I got out of my clenched teeth was "SHHHT"! My belayer had to duck the swing of my feet. My 'lead head' needs work too, but it is getting better. kennoyce wrote: sounds like technically you're doing fine. you just need to work on your lead head. I would suggest that you should go to the overhanging section of your gym's lead wall, or an overhanging sport climb, and just practice falling a few times. Start with your waist just 6 inches above the last bolt and let go, do that once or twice, and move up to 2 or 3 feet. Once you have taken a few controlled short falls, you will start to trust the gear more and not be to bad. Just so you know, I used to nearly mess my pants just climbing above the bolt when I started leading and lets not even talk about falling. Now 12 years later I took a good 30' whipper last week and it didn't even phase me. Just go have fun and take a change of pants with you. |
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clee03m
Mar 27, 2009, 11:55 PM
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I was scared to death leading sport 7's and 8's, I think.
I think plateaus are normal for most people. Don't get discouraged. After what felt like a plateau and a steady decline in my sport climbing ability for the last few years, I finally feel like I am getting stronger. Be patient. This is supposed to be fun, remember?
Now, only 5 minutes until I go to Smith!!!!
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rschap
Mar 28, 2009, 12:25 AM
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I had a plateau around the year and a half mark, I started controlled down climbing everything I climbed (in the gym anyways). It really helped me with my foot work. I went from 5.10a/b to 5.11b/c after that.
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i_h8_choss
Mar 28, 2009, 12:36 AM
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After 1 year, I was sending V4 outside and I dirtbagged a season at Josh, and I was reading tons of books about climbing, watching videos, and engulfing myself in all things Climbing. Second year I bought a rack and did more roped climbing.
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patmay81
Mar 28, 2009, 1:20 AM
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I dunno what the big deal is with people and grades. I really enjoy fun, easy, exposed routes! Sure I've made some redpoint attempts at 12's, but they just aren't as much fun for me as the moderates. I like difficult climbs, but difficult for me turns out to be 11+.
sorry, I'm starting to spray (and neither my ability to spray or the spray itself is going to impress anyone).
to answer your question after a year of climbing I had half a rack, was leading 8+ trad 10+ spurt, learned all things (yeah right) multi pitch, and left the gym for good.
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andrewG
Mar 28, 2009, 1:23 AM
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lofstromc wrote: After a year of climbing I had three new (fake) front teeth. In the previous twelve months, I was climbing, even leading 5.10 sport climbs. My first trad lead sketched me out so much I fell and wound up almost toothless. I'm better now.
I want the story.
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Mar 28, 2009, 1:35 PM
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Here, posting snarking comments on RC.com.
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lofstromc
Mar 28, 2009, 1:52 PM
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No big story.
I pumped myself out placing and clipping some gear and then peeled. I yanked my belayer up into me as I fell. I think I whacked my mouth on his shoulder, dislodging the top three teeth.
That's it.
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andrewG
Mar 28, 2009, 5:19 PM
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I was expecting rockfall, faceplant on slab, biting rope to reach for a highly placed cam etc...
Well, after a year I was still mostly gym climbing, followed a few routes outside both trad and sport, hanging all over 9s and easy 10s. I could climb 5.9 in the gym on tr, lead 8s/9s, boulder v2/v3 (ouside v0/v1). When I started climbing outside regularly I got a lot stronger pretty fast, but that was after my first year. I think it is/was largely a motivation thing. I still have trouble pushing myself in the gym but on real rock I push myself a lot more. Just find routes that inspire you and are at/near your limit and have fun working on them. Colored routes don't count.
I like to push myself into new numbers because it opens up more climbs to me. There are probably 20 5.9s within an hour, 50+ 10s, and several hundred 11s and 12s.
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jsj7051
Mar 28, 2009, 6:51 PM
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I was following up to 5.9 and had a shinny new rack of assoc. stuff, 25 cams , and did my 1st trad lead on the 1st route I'd climbed, 5.7. 2nd year and I,m TR and following into .10d .
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swoopee
Mar 28, 2009, 7:19 PM
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5.7 - 5.8 fairly well. Some 5.9 but it wasn't very pretty. 
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 29, 2009, 1:39 AM
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After a year of climbing, the biggest change was that when I started I knew nothing of climbing and after a year, I thought I knew everything.
Now, after 7 years, I realize that I was smarter before I even started, than i was after a year. My point is this. You have barely even started to climb. It's natural to want to get better, but focus on your technique and the strength will come. Grades mean nothing (at least right now).
Good luck.
josh
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meanandugly
Mar 29, 2009, 2:18 AM
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After my first year of climbing I was 11 years old and still didn't know much about grades.
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olive
Mar 29, 2009, 2:52 AM
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There are so many factors that go into climbing performance that I dont know if it makes any sense for you (or someone else) to compare themselves with how people were doing after one year of climbing. The comparison is pointless when you dont know how old those people were when they started, how fit, how much/how long did they climb a week, how much did they train, how much did they go out, did they mainly climb outside or inside, did they climb with experienced people and learnt a lot or tried to learn stuff themselves?? Maybe you have a bad lead head because you are way stressed or concerned about something that is going on in your life which is affecting your head while this other person has great lead head because of...god knows what... etc. etc. etc. You get the point. It is a very personalized thing - you need to think about what you have to tweak to get over your plateau, the comparisons here would not be very useful, but maybe stories about how people thought about and got over their plateaus might.
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ja1484
Mar 29, 2009, 2:56 AM
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Burlington, North Carolina, in a Moe's Southwest Grill I think.
Coulda been Target. I don't remember that day to every detail.
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notapplicable
Mar 29, 2009, 5:14 AM
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Climbing harder than I do now.
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Myxomatosis
Mar 29, 2009, 8:48 PM
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At the end of my first year I sucked the big time, Had no idea how to climb... I think I was doing 5.10a's on lead (only going to gym once a week if that). Gave me alot of time to work on technique and movement but still didnt have much understanding.
Another six months on from that I got more into climbing, started twice a week, got a mentor/coach and started going outdoors more, then started onsighting 5.10's and did a few 5.11's outdoors (r/p's)
Nothing world beating but now currently injured so just enjoy being out of the city.
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rangerrob
Mar 30, 2009, 12:59 AM
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Seriously dude....you should be concentrating on keeping yourself safe. Most sane and normal people follow a competent leader for a year or two before ever tying into the sharp end. There is sooo much to learn in order to keep yourself safe in most situations. Keep pushing that process and you will inevitably hurt yourself, or worse, someone else. Think about it this way...if you or your partner can't pass a lead test in a gym, you have ABSOLUTELY NO BUSINESS leading outdoors...period. This isn't just something cool to do....if you mess up there is little to no room for error. You WILL hurt of kill yourself or someone else. Learn to climb from someone experienced. I don't mean to be an asshole, but when you watch enough beginners deck from 40, 50, 100' up because of mistakes they should not be making, you want to start preaching to people. Don't be a statistic...forget the grades..learn to be safe first. Then you can nitpick over climbing 10d or 11a.
RR
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Climbing_Pink
Mar 30, 2009, 1:25 AM
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Eating pizza at Miguel's
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rangerrob
Mar 30, 2009, 2:06 AM
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I did qualify that by saying most SANE and NORMAL people follow for a year or two. I am certainly not sane and normal and I led two or three routes way above anything I should be doing on my first 2 trips. When I sufficiently scared the shit out of myself, I found a competent leader and followed him for a full year before I tied into the sharp end again. I was trying to illustrate that a lot of accidents happen because people start leading without knowledge of how to keep themselves safe.
I do like that you critiqued my post for usefulness and bullshit factor.....makes me feel good to know there are professional post reviewers out there doing their jobs! Cheers!
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phillygoat
Mar 30, 2009, 2:43 AM
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1. Occasionally wearing a bandanna. (I don't really know why- I think I somehow equated bandannas with being Old School, and by wearing one, no one would notice what a nOOb I was)
2. Clipping my chalkbag to my harness with a biner.
3. Wearing blown-out Katanas.
4. Climbing horrible routes in worse weather. (Think 80 degrees, polished basalt and less than 30ft)
5. Daydreaming about freesoloing (ya know, after a few more weeks of honing my skills)
6. Studying climbing magazines as if they were religious tomes.
7. Sending Smith Rock .10b's cause I didn't have sense enough to be terrified of their slabby, pebbly nature.
8. Leading Wavy Gravy at Indian Creek by laying back the entire thing- a mix of different cam brands that took 2-3 tries per placement to find the right size.
9. Thinking that climbing 5.12 would be the coolest thing ever.
10. Completely and irrevocably in love with it...
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whitenuckled23
Mar 30, 2009, 4:25 PM
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Everyone progresses at their own rate. No need to compare where you stand with where others stand after thier first year. There are so many variables that go into how a climber progresses: body type, dexterity, workout routine, TIME, Patience....the list goes on and on. If a year from now you are still enjoy a sunny weekend afternoon at your favorite route (whether it be a 5.8 or 5.11d) I say you have progressed nicely.
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taydude
Mar 30, 2009, 4:39 PM
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after about a year I was leading ~ 5.9-5.10b sport and bouldering about v4
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kachoong
Mar 30, 2009, 6:10 PM
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Certainly use what time you have in the first few years to experience as many facets of climbing as possible and to expose yourself to multipitch (with a mentor). Try and climb on lots of different rock types, and as said, don't worry about grades, just enjoy getting out there!
After a year I knew I had found my niche in the outdoors.
I was spending as much of my climbing time on as many types of rock as possible. Also scoping out what it was like to climb upside down at the gym (I remember how weird it felt). Seconding as much trad as possible. Leading a little sport up to about 5.8. Most memorable point around 1 year after I started climbing was a trip to some long multipitch routes. Lots of shitting myself on 5.6, a long way off the deck. It was great for my confidence.
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vegastradguy
Mar 30, 2009, 6:39 PM
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at the end of my first year, i was leading...5.8 trad, and could fumble my way a 5.10 sport route.
i had already experienced a near FF2, been injured, and had lived to tell the tale.
i look back on that year and shake my head sometimes- i think alot of us are lucky to survive those first couple of years....
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i_h8_choss
Mar 30, 2009, 6:49 PM
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rangerrob wrote: I did qualify that by saying most SANE and NORMAL people follow for a year or two. I am certainly not sane and normal and I led two or three routes way above anything I should be doing on my first 2 trips. When I sufficiently scared the shit out of myself, I found a competent leader and followed him for a full year before I tied into the sharp end again. I was trying to illustrate that a lot of accidents happen because people start leading without knowledge of how to keep themselves safe. I do like that you critiqued my post for usefulness and bullshit factor.....makes me feel good to know there are professional post reviewers out there doing their jobs! Cheers!
youre an idiot and a wuss.
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Parkerkat
Mar 30, 2009, 6:59 PM
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after one year of climbing, I'm still trying to find a ride to RRG!
: (
Please kill me!
; p
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cracklover
Mar 30, 2009, 7:24 PM
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Seeing as how I was the same chickenshit then as I am now, I had only just started to venture outside, learn how to set TR anchors, and technical stuff like that.
I had also experienced for the first time the thrill of getting shut down by a climb, getting stronger (mentally and physically), and coming back months later to send it.
After one year of climbing, I was totally addicted.
GO
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dingus
Mar 30, 2009, 7:32 PM
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Spidermite wrote: Just wondering what people were at after your first year of climbing ?
Tennessee.
DMT
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Parkerkat
Mar 30, 2009, 8:04 PM
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this statement is a little arbitrary is it not? 1-2 years sitting around watching before taking the sharp end? For serious?
There are a lot of skill involved and alot of learning, but I don't think I've ever even met a person yet who waited some arbitrary multi-year time frame before taking on sport and modest trad routes.
If its sport climbing, take a course, learn what you need to smart and safe and go...it does not take 1-2 years to do this if you are willing to learn, smart about risk assessment and learn from the right people.
Be safe!
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Upperlimits
Mar 30, 2009, 8:43 PM
Post #53 of 56
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Registered: Aug 23, 2007
Posts: 42
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At the first year mark I was still looking at these guys in the gym bringing their own ropes wondering why they do that when there are perfectly good ropes hanging all over in the gym.
Started leading soon after that. Got very frustrated with my step backwards in grade due to leading. Got through that.
Now I'm just generally frustrated.
What really helped me was stepping it up to 3 times a week climbing. Even if it's just a short workout. That has helped me step it up. I can't help but be a grade seeker. At least I can admit it. But I still suck compared to good climbers.
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rangerrob
Mar 31, 2009, 2:05 AM
Post #54 of 56
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Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
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Well dude, consider me your first one. Like I said, after scaring the shit out of myselfon Broken Sling, I decided to learnfrom someone and it was a year again before I took up the sharp end. That was the best thjing I ever could have done. I never clipped a bolt until about year 9 of climbing, so there's goes that theory. I'm sure there are many more people than you realize that do it this way.
Oh and by the way Chosshead...nice avatar picture. Can you even name the feature on the north side of the peak in it? I know I can call myself a wuss because I've been battered by the wind at the base of that route, and it scared the hell out of me. But please, tell me why YOU think I'm a wuss. The idiot part I accept however.
RR
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angry
Mar 31, 2009, 2:28 AM
Post #55 of 56
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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Stop preaching weaksauce like it's right.
It might have been right for you but it's not "right".
If I found myself a beginner that I regularly got out with and s/he didn't take a lead now and then, at any level, we'd have to seriously have the "what do you want out of climbing" discussion.
You don't need to scare yourself to lead and you don't learn (much) competency on toprope.
I hope you're a texas ranger, anything else would be a joke.
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dingus
Mar 31, 2009, 3:04 PM
Post #56 of 56
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
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In my backwoods little town, oh hell I didn't get to live in a town, any town, till I was 18 and had done flown the coop.
Anyway, there were no climbers about. None.
We had to learn 'how'd they get the rope up there' on our own, from a book. Then we proceeded to 'get the rop up there.'
Even our top roping was leading, in that sense.
There are lots of personalities in climbing. For the aggressive types, in good physical fitness with a decent head on their shoulders?
No reason at all this sort of person can't be leading STOUT routes inside one year. I'd put such a person on lead just as soon as I could talk them into it.
Don't coddle the noobs. Self-selection is the Darwinian way of rock climbing. Those who will get good at it will self-select. The rest of us just sort of muddle along through our careers - never getting 'good' but so frickin what????
DMT
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