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joeforte
Apr 10, 2009, 1:42 AM
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truello wrote: joeforte wrote: I've solo'd up to booty gear in the gunks, then downclimbed back to my pack several times... did I break the booty law by not finishing the route? That must have been one nice piece of booty to risk it without protection.
I've claimed plenty of booty without protection... before I knew about stds, ehem I mean... microfractures
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climbingpa
Apr 10, 2009, 3:02 AM
Post #27 of 86
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The route is an old TR line that is to the left of the center scramble. We climbed it back in 2000/2001? Thought it was too short for bolts. CraziePetie and friends bolted it over the winter (not my work). its only 2 bolts and connects to the 4th bolt on Revisited. "Revisited" got the name from the fact that I revisited that section of wall for a better line. My instincts told me revisited was the better of the 2 lines. So I bolted it several years back. Now the "New" line comes into it as a var. Pete says he sent it. I havn't cilmbed it since the bolts have been added. I only found out a couple days ago that they were put in. Hope this helps.
(This post was edited by climbingpa on Apr 10, 2009, 3:04 AM)
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joeforte
Apr 10, 2009, 11:12 AM
Post #28 of 86
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So it was not a project...and it sounds like the "stolen" draw was actually hung on revisited anyway. Did they contact anyone before slapping those bolts in?
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jaablink
Apr 10, 2009, 12:22 PM
Post #29 of 86
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No they did not…. I was up there last week running laps and noticed the new mad-rock bolts everywhere. Al and Mike said they don’t know anything about them ,and Steve from the EC said no one asked for permission from the conservancy.
As for the stolen draw. I was told, Bloom U was there last weekend and they probably took your draw as booty. They were also at paradise bailed all over the place as I found out yesterday. Thanks for the donations. Come back any time…
Edit to add:
Thanks for the catch Joey
(This post was edited by jaablink on Apr 10, 2009, 12:41 PM)
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jaablink
Apr 10, 2009, 12:52 PM
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lodi5onu
Apr 10, 2009, 2:12 PM
Post #31 of 86
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Evidence of what? That somebody put 2 more bolts in? Could there seriously be drama over bolting at Breakneck?
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Lazlo
Apr 10, 2009, 2:22 PM
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lodi5onu wrote: Evidence of what? That somebody put 2 more bolts in? Could there seriously be drama over bolting at Breakneck?
It's bad form no matter what rock it is.
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lodi5onu
Apr 10, 2009, 2:26 PM
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It's bad form to bolt unprotectable face climbs? Damnit, i'm selling my gri-gri and quickdraws.
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hansundfritz
Apr 10, 2009, 3:21 PM
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lodi5onu wrote: It's bad form to bolt unprotectable face climbs? Damnit, i'm selling my gri-gri and quickdraws.
Not a modern view, I know, but many consider it bad form to bolt a face that can be easily top-roped. I've only been there once (many, many years ago), so my memory of the place is hazy in terms of the TR set-ups.
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Lazlo
Apr 10, 2009, 3:58 PM
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hansundfritz wrote: lodi5onu wrote: It's bad form to bolt unprotectable face climbs? Damnit, i'm selling my gri-gri and quickdraws. Not a modern view, I know, but many consider it bad form to bolt a face that can be easily top-roped. I've only been there once (many, many years ago), so my memory of the place is hazy in terms of the TR set-ups.
(I'm going to check out of this conversation from here on due to the fact that I'm not a local.)
But what i was referencing is the fact that someone bolted without permission from (seemingly) the first ascensionist or the land management.
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jaablink
Apr 10, 2009, 4:10 PM
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The normal start to Al’s 20+ year old FA… is a boulder start to the first piece of trad pro. The bolt was placed , without permission from the EC or the FA even though the number for the EC is at the trailhead and states that “any questions regarding activity on this land please call x#”
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lodi5onu
Apr 10, 2009, 4:26 PM
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Well it doesn't sound like crazypetie had any questions regarding activity on the land. He just wanted to create another line. I'm just saying that it doesn't seem like something that warrants ppl getting all fired up about 2 more bolts going in. I would say the place has reached it's "potential" for routes, therefore adding 2 more bolts to augment the limited number of options doesn't seem like that big a deal. Do you see ppl taking their trad gear to climb that variation?
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jaablink
Apr 10, 2009, 5:07 PM
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lodi5onu
Apr 10, 2009, 6:18 PM
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ROFLMAO, awesome!! A few more things and I'll leave you to your hardmanship...
1. I've only climbed at Breakneck once, Just enough time to piss on every route there, including the "projects" and determine that there was no reason for me to return to your mega-crag
2. I don't know who crazypetie is, I was just trying to add some perspective to the situation because I think it's funny when access issues arise due to blown up ego's at little shit for nothing crags such as breakneck...the sense of entitlement by ppl who don't even own the land, but who were the first to climb a piece of rock...can't we all just play nice?
3. You're exactly right, I don't know who you are and couldn't give a shit less, but you must be somebody important...to somebody...somewhere
4. fighting development is futile in lesser known areas that lack an offical alliance or governing organization EX: Franklin...if it makes you feel better, chop the bolts (or just bash them in, if they're really mad rock hangars it won't be that hard)
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notapplicable
Apr 10, 2009, 6:24 PM
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joeforte
Apr 10, 2009, 6:54 PM
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The climb in question is "Do you like apples". It is in the route database, where Pete claims the FA. I toproped the route a few years ago, after the begining of "Diesel" spit me off about a million times.
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joeforte
Apr 10, 2009, 11:35 PM
Post #42 of 86
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jaablink wrote: No they did not…. I was up there last week running laps and noticed the new mad-rock bolts everywhere. Al and Mike said they don’t know anything about them ,and Steve from the EC said no one asked for permission from the conservancy. As for the stolen draw. I was told, Bloom U was there last weekend and they probably took your draw as booty. They were also at paradise bailed all over the place as I found out yesterday. Thanks for the donations. Come back any time…
Hey John, are you sure you're talking about the same area? Al and Mike have nothing to do with the development of Breakneck, near Connellsville. This area is on the other side of the state, and was developed by Tim Anderson.
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jaablink
Apr 10, 2009, 11:43 PM
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Oh shit… I see… I read main wall and since there was allot of bolting going on in the area I figured it was the same area.
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joeforte
Apr 10, 2009, 11:49 PM
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jaablink wrote: Oh shit… I see… I read main wall and since there was allot of bolting going on in the area I figured it was the same area.
Gotcha
Does Main wall (Mocanaqua) have room for new routes, or are these retrobolted trad climbs?
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Lazlo
Apr 11, 2009, 12:12 AM
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notapplicable wrote: Lazlo wrote: notapplicable wrote: Can I have some? Pull up a chair my good man. It looks like the fireworks are mostly over but theres no reason we can't hang out, have a few beers and hope the fall out starts a brush fire. 
I'm enjoying a Sierra Nevada Porter. You?
(This post was edited by Lazlo on Apr 11, 2009, 12:12 AM)
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notapplicable
Apr 11, 2009, 12:25 AM
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Lazlo wrote: notapplicable wrote: Lazlo wrote: notapplicable wrote: [img]http://www.mysmiley.net/imgs/smile/party/party0051.gif[/img] Can I have some? Pull up a chair my good man. It looks like the fireworks are mostly over but theres no reason we can't hang out, have a few beers and hope the fall out starts a brush fire. I'm enjoying a Sierra Nevada Porter. You?
A cup of green tea actually. I don't drink much anymore, I'll clink your glass anyway though.
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jaablink
Apr 11, 2009, 1:45 AM
Post #49 of 86
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If you are not strong enough to do it . Work on it until you get it, or leave it for the next person. Without changing the climb. I thought you may like this Joey.
The Bicycle Route
“The climb has one of the most colorful histories of any rout in the area. To ensure the facts are recorded with some degree of accuracy, the story will be told in full. While cleaning the rout on rappel in 1976, Ed Webster placed a bolt on the final slab, then was unable to even climb up to it. Everyone got a chuckle out of this, but the best was yet to come. Several years later, just for fun, Alain Comeau and several conspirators “barrowed” Webster’s ten speed bicycle, rappelling down, and hung it off the offensive bolt, no doubt as a warning against any future ethical slippages! Paul Ross even went so far as to sneak Webster’s camera along to photograph the event for posterity. But - as fate would have it - John Bragg & Jay Wilson were climbing INTIMIDATION later that same day. One can only imagine their incredulity upon noticing a ten speed bicycle suspended out in the middle of a blank wall, and the subsequent argument over who saw it first! The bicycle was speedily rescued, albeit on top-rope. When the conspirators discovered the premature rescue of the bicycle, it was seized from Bragg and Wilson, and returned to its ignominious perch for the second time in the same day! There it remained for about two weeks until Webster finally rescued it - and alas, the poor bicycle was never quite the same again. On September 23, 1980, Ed Webster & Susan Patenaude made the routes first ascent, but found an easier way around the famous bicycle bolt - which was finally incorporated into the next variation. Training Wheels I, 5.11b R…“
(p.181-182 Rock climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire 3rd ed / By Ed Webster)
(This post was edited by jaablink on Apr 11, 2009, 2:22 AM)
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joeforte
Apr 11, 2009, 3:27 AM
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jaablink wrote: If you are not strong enough to do it . Work on it until you get it, or leave it for the next person. Without changing the climb. I thought you may like this Joey. The Bicycle Route “The climb has one of the most colorful histories of any rout in the area. To ensure the facts are recorded with some degree of accuracy, the story will be told in full. While cleaning the rout on rappel in 1976, Ed Webster placed a bolt on the final slab, then was unable to even climb up to it. Everyone got a chuckle out of this, but the best was yet to come. Several years later, just for fun, Alain Comeau and several conspirators “barrowed” Webster’s ten speed bicycle, rappelling down, and hung it off the offensive bolt, no doubt as a warning against any future ethical slippages! Paul Ross even went so far as to sneak Webster’s camera along to photograph the event for posterity. But - as fate would have it - John Bragg & Jay Wilson were climbing INTIMIDATION later that same day. One can only imagine their incredulity upon noticing a ten speed bicycle suspended out in the middle of a blank wall, and the subsequent argument over who saw it first! The bicycle was speedily rescued, albeit on top-rope. When the conspirators discovered the premature rescue of the bicycle, it was seized from Bragg and Wilson, and returned to its ignominious perch for the second time in the same day! There it remained for about two weeks until Webster finally rescued it - and alas, the poor bicycle was never quite the same again. On September 23, 1980, Ed Webster & Susan Patenaude made the routes first ascent, but found an easier way around the famous bicycle bolt - which was finally incorporated into the next variation. Training Wheels I, 5.11b R…“ (p.181-182 Rock climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire 3rd ed / By Ed Webster)
Hey Pete, do you have a bike?
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