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colatownkid
May 7, 2009, 11:50 AM
Post #26 of 28
(1177 views)
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Registered: Nov 27, 2007
Posts: 512
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Guran wrote: colatownkid wrote: i don't really have a problem with inline clove hitches, especially on easier terrain. if the pieces are bomber then i'm not super concerned. the only reason i actually posted anything was to attempt to clarify the setup that jt512 was asking about. i think both inline cloves and the setup i drew up are fine in the right situations. as with everything in climbing, it's all situational. Ok, I'm with you. One reason I like cloves on the rope is that if the first piece of my ancor is solid enough, I'm safe once I've tied that first clove. Than I can worry about the anchor and my second, not my own survival. With a cordalette, Y-sling, sliding x or whatever it's always a bit more rigging before I can secure myself to something. But as you wrote, it's all situational.
that one for me depends on the terrain at the belay. if i'm on a nice big ledge and i feel the risk is low, i might take the time to rig an anchor and then clip to the masterpoint. if i'm building a hanging belay, i'll place the most solid piece i can find, clove to that, call off belay, finish building the anchor, and then move my clove to the masterpoint if i feel it's necessary.
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creemore
May 7, 2009, 3:53 PM
Post #27 of 28
(1141 views)
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Registered: Jan 22, 2003
Posts: 61
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rtwilli4 is right. In a two piece anchor, each leg gets clipped normally, then a clove hitch is made as the master point.
Sure if there's some traversing as your second comes up might not be the greatest, then I'll stick to slidding X with overhands knots in the slings. But for straight up pitches, alpine or not, I use it quite often.
And sorry, you won't get a drawing from me explaining alpine anchors...
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EvilMonkey
May 25, 2009, 11:50 PM
Post #28 of 28
(1065 views)
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Registered: Mar 19, 2008
Posts: 195
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if i know i'm gonna be building 2 piece anchors in good ice, i like to carry a pre-tied 7mm quad equallette. since i know that one screw's going 2 be higher than the other, i tie the knots a little off-center to one side. feels super secure, no equalizing to dick around with, and you do't have to waste time tying knots to prevent extension. another plus is that you could always cut it up on your way down and get 4 or 5 v-threads out of it. double that if you're carrying 2 of 'em for a multi-pitch ice climb.
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