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healyje
May 20, 2009, 3:00 PM
Post #26 of 40
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That definitely looks like it was cut over an edge rappelling...
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marc801
May 20, 2009, 3:10 PM
Post #27 of 40
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healyje wrote: That definitely looks like it was cut over an edge rappelling...
Let's keep it simple and in perspective:
If your rope is getting "heavily fuzzed out" or has core shots "after only a few uses" - you're doing something grossly incompetent and you need proper instruction. Ropes today are better than they've ever been and this kind of stuff just doesn't happen without abuse.
Again, neither the OP or anyone else has explained exactly and in detail what they did and all the variables that led to these supposed rope defects.
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cadaverchris
May 20, 2009, 3:16 PM
Post #28 of 40
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i did that to a rope once. it looked exactly like that.
i led a route- clipped to cheap-a$$ quickdraws at the top, lowered and then pulled the rope so the next could lead.
the route was a little slabby at the top, and the rope got stuck when the tail whipped up through the anchoring draws. I gave it a few tugs and it came down.
i got a core shot because the gates of these cheap biners had really sharp edges where they would envelope the nose of the biner.
-cadaver
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ford4x4
May 20, 2009, 3:57 PM
Post #29 of 40
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hehe i know how it happened to mine a 7 yo rope and cat piss dont mix..... how tthe eell the cat got in my gear closet i dont know but oh well. thankfully she didnt get any ofmy gear of my good rope just my backups
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phillygoat
May 20, 2009, 3:58 PM
Post #30 of 40
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ford4x4 wrote: i think my mammut was about 7 yrs old, took it out and trailed it for raps only and just the friction caused it to show core, only to find out it was one my cat pissed ok, fortunately we didnt need it and my lead rope is new new!
Please go on. I have a feeling you have a wealth of knowledge and experience that can really get to the bottom of this.
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healyje
May 20, 2009, 6:03 PM
Post #31 of 40
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marc801 wrote: healyje wrote: That definitely looks like it was cut over an edge rappelling... ...or heavily abused in some other manner - maybe sliding back and forth over an edge while top roping.
Pretty localized for happening while top roping. Typically such damage would be spread out along a longer section of rope in such instances.
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marc801
May 20, 2009, 6:08 PM
Post #32 of 40
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healyje wrote: marc801 wrote: healyje wrote: That definitely looks like it was cut over an edge rappelling... ...or heavily abused in some other manner - maybe sliding back and forth over an edge while top roping. Pretty localized for happening while top roping. Typically such damage would be spread out along a longer section of rope in such instances.
(This post was edited by marc801 on May 21, 2009, 5:45 AM)
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ford4x4
May 20, 2009, 7:44 PM
Post #33 of 40
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go on about what philly thats all there was to it, as far as scarpas rope goes it looks like it pinched over an edge durring a fall or something, its hard to say when you wernt there
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bill413
May 20, 2009, 8:06 PM
Post #34 of 40
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healyje wrote: marc801 wrote: healyje wrote: That definitely looks like it was cut over an edge rappelling... ...or heavily abused in some other manner - maybe sliding back and forth over an edge while top roping. Pretty localized for happening while top roping. Typically such damage would be spread out along a longer section of rope in such instances.
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altelis
May 20, 2009, 8:48 PM
Post #35 of 40
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ford4x4 wrote: i think my mammut was about 7 yrs old, took it out and trailed it for raps only and just the friction caused it to show core, only to find out it was one my cat pissed ok, fortunately we didnt need it and my lead rope is new new!
how does one "find out" after the fact (of both the pissing and the core shot) that a cat pissed on one's rope?
i really mean this seriously....i mean, cat piss smells badly enough i'd think you'd smell it long before the core shot happens....
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ford4x4
May 20, 2009, 9:49 PM
Post #36 of 40
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to tell you the truth my nose is soo messed up i can hardly smell cat piss unless im right on top of it. i still dont know to this day how the hell she got in the gear closet, its always closed except when i need to get into it.
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healyje
May 20, 2009, 9:50 PM
Post #37 of 40
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bill413 wrote: healyje wrote: marc801 wrote: healyje wrote: That definitely looks like it was cut over an edge rappelling... ...or heavily abused in some other manner - maybe sliding back and forth over an edge while top roping. Pretty localized for happening while top roping. Typically such damage would be spread out along a longer section of rope in such instances. The one I destroyed was while top-roping, and it was fairly localized.
Well, there you go. I've never seen or heard of that happening in 35 years of climbing - always something new to learn. Was it a one fall deal, or multiple falls? Seems like the sort of thing you'd feel through the rope during the fall...
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spikeddem
May 20, 2009, 11:23 PM
Post #38 of 40
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healyje wrote: That definitely looks like it was cut over an edge rappelling...
This agrees perfectly with the fact that only half the rope is fuzzed. The side not pulled on when pulling the rope post-rap is likely the fuzzed side.
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bill413
May 21, 2009, 4:38 AM
Post #40 of 40
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healyje wrote: bill413 wrote: healyje wrote: marc801 wrote: healyje wrote: That definitely looks like it was cut over an edge rappelling... ...or heavily abused in some other manner - maybe sliding back and forth over an edge while top roping. Pretty localized for happening while top roping. Typically such damage would be spread out along a longer section of rope in such instances. The one I destroyed was while top-roping, and it was fairly localized. Well, there you go. I've never seen or heard of that happening in 35 years of climbing - always something new to learn. Was it a one fall deal, or multiple falls? Seems like the sort of thing you'd feel through the rope during the fall...
from my knowledge of the climb...
We would have set it up as a top rope, and several people probably took turns on it. The crux is pretty localized (one of those where you either get the the first two moves or you're off of it).
When we went back to the top to break down the anchor several of us were ... ummm ... discombobulated by what we found.
So, I'd say multiple TR falls, with a fair amount of rope out.
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