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boulderpaul
Dec 1, 2002, 7:29 PM
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i climb v0 what should i do?
Paul R.
[ This Message was edited by: boulderpaul on 2003-02-12 16:07 ]
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camhead
Dec 1, 2002, 8:23 PM
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strength is NOT the only factor in climbing "hard." just climb a lot, and specifically, BOULDER. try to make up super hard problems that consist of less than four moves.
that said, lots of situps and pushups help with core strength. personally, I stay away from weight lifting.
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cid0680
Dec 1, 2002, 9:03 PM
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I've been climbing for not quite a year now, but I did a lot of lifting before that. I can tell you that climbing requires a certain level of strength, sustainable over a period of time. There's all kinds of theories on how to lift to be stronger. The old lifting philosophy of "more is better" is slowly giving way to newer methods that recognize few sets, few times per week, are all that are required to become stronger. However, once you reach the right level of strength, you need to work on being able to use it more than for just one set - so once you're strong enough to do that hard move just once or twice before tiring, it's time to switch from short, highly intense (i.e. heavy) workouts to more repetitions and more sets. That being said - I'd say the average person needs to strengthen their grip the most. Other areas include the legs (particularly the calves) and back (focus on pulling in and/or down). And lots of experienced climbers will tell you the best way to get better is to climb - a lot.
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xanx
Dec 1, 2002, 9:26 PM
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with respect to weight lifting, there was another topic on that, which i could give u the link to if i weren't so lazy, but basically they said that doing more reps with less weight (like normal lifters, like 10 reps, 3 sets) adds a lot of unnecesary bulk. instead, you should really push yourself until you can only do like a max. of 5 reps to add strength without bulk.
personally i find lifting and training a bore. i just climb a lot. the only thing i do is, i have a hangboard, so i practice doing a straight arm hang from the worst sloper to work on contact strength. also, i do 3 part pullups on the pockets and crimps (hang straigt arm 3 seconds, go halfway up, hold 3 sec. go all the way up, hold 3 sec, come half way down, hold 3 sec, go straight arm, hold 3 sec. and repeat.) on the 3 finger pockets (not really juggy, but basically flat) i can do 5 of these in a row before i have to rest. i can hang from the worst sloper (anyone know the pusher hold "the pond" or the "boss"? it is sort of like that, but w/out texture) for 30 sec.
later
mike
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wv5ten
Dec 1, 2002, 11:09 PM
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i boulder. sit ups, push ups. might get into a little weight training. but for now I mainly just boulder.
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nbrown
Dec 1, 2002, 11:42 PM
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Just Climb
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jono13
Dec 2, 2002, 5:41 AM
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wow boulderpaul, i thought youd have it all figured out having climbed V10
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boulderpaul
Dec 2, 2002, 7:40 PM
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though i have sent v10 i still do have trouble with real steep problems and long ones. On crimpy and slopey slightly overhung stuff i can climb pretty well but when it comes to roofs and other steep problems it becomes a lot harder for me.
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boulderpaul
Dec 2, 2002, 7:40 PM
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though i have sent v10 i still do have trouble with real steep problems and long ones. On crimpy and slopey slightly overhung stuff i can climb pretty well but when it comes to roofs and other steep problems it becomes a lot harder for me.
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lox
Dec 2, 2002, 8:42 PM
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Build your foundation.
Learn steep technique... you never know when a heel-toe cam will save the day.
Think more about locking holds down further and further.
BOLDER MORE.
hehe...
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bouldersocal
Dec 3, 2002, 3:31 AM
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If your local gym has a really steep wall, like more than 45 deg, campus up and down it with you knees pulled up. Campusing is really good, but be careful you can really jack yourself up with it. Pulling your knees up will give you a great core workout, core stregnth is something a lot of climbers overlook, and its really important. The gym is good for stregnth but I belive techinque is best improved outdoors.
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johnny_g
Dec 4, 2002, 8:48 AM
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I'm relieng on gravitatin most of my training
hangs ,pull-ups ,abs ,one arm pull-ups ,levers and a lot of weird boulderin whit strange positions .
Later
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sharmagod
Dec 4, 2002, 6:09 PM
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I believe all exercises help but again....like all climbers say....nothing is as good as climbing.
Jason
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gumbygurl
Dec 4, 2002, 6:19 PM
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I am in agreement with previous statements- just keep climbing. However, if cant get to a rock buildering is always fun (just stay under the second floor)
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boulderpaul
Dec 5, 2002, 10:26 PM
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thanks guys i will try some of these techniques and see how they work!
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mustclimb69
Dec 5, 2002, 10:36 PM
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Climbing helps everything....
Stregnth (core and contact), abs, flexibility, cool scars, its event got me laid!! off topic but I love it
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marcsv
Dec 10, 2002, 10:40 AM
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boulder more. hit the campus board, i only touch iron weights when in rehab. what else . . . intervals and laps
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blueeyedclimber
Dec 12, 2002, 7:36 PM
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This has been said. The correct term for it is specificity of training. If you want to develop climbing skills, including strength, then you need to climb.
Josh
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psirro
Dec 12, 2002, 8:07 PM
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bouldering,joking,climb at least twice a week at gym and once at real rock,practice every day with your fingerboard ...
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climbingjunky
Dec 12, 2002, 8:53 PM
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Take some steroids!
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grandwall
Dec 12, 2002, 9:04 PM
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indy: I am interested in knowing why you think steroids will make you stronger for climbing. Does it look like Chris Sharma or David Graham takes steroids? They are strong.
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msecoda
Dec 12, 2002, 9:43 PM
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Lift weights, workout, climb hard...
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grayhghost
Dec 12, 2002, 10:21 PM
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you dont need to train to climb hard. just lie! I always like to add a 1 to any bouldering grade I just sent, it really works, V0=V10, V4=V14! It's just that easy! Then you can spray your name in all the mags and get the hottest chicks at the gym, but be careful to climb alone so as to not let anyone in on the little secret that you cant pull off the ground on V2. Good luck!
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boulderpaul
Dec 13, 2002, 1:34 AM
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great idea greyhghost!!!!!
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tyraidbp
Dec 15, 2002, 5:24 PM
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Three simple things you can do to get stronger would go as this.
1. Take two weeks off from climbing. This means give no thought to any kind of movement, specific problem(s), or even getting stronger.
2. Once you have started your two weeks off, begin running. Start off kinda slow, something like 1 mile the first day, then 1.5 miles your second day and work up to about 2 to 3 miles. Run 4 to 5 times each of the two weeks.
3. Before and after your run, take about 30 to 45 minutes each side to stretch. This should be a total body stretch all the way down to your feet and toes. Do a search via the net to find some good stretches.
After your two weeks has ended cut your running down to 2 to 3 days per week. Start your climbing workout with some light but long bouldering(something like 30 to 45 moves). Begin stretching after a couple of rounds on your easy traverse. Do some situps, pushups, and pullups, but only a light amount of each(find your limits and maybe only do something like 10/10/30). Once your day or evening is coming to an end, do your long traverse until you fall off(keep going until your body gives out completely)take a short rest, drink more water and start doing some more situps, pushups, and pullups(double what you did of each in the beginning of your work out.
After a round of this, drink more water and repeat this whole thing one more time. Make sure to stretch your arms in all directions before starting the second round.
This system has worked for me numerous times and the people that know me here will attest to the fact that it will make you stronger as it has for me. Any questions please let me know.
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