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squishy654
Aug 12, 2009, 4:27 PM
Post #26 of 98
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Registered: May 18, 2008
Posts: 137
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Climber has a helmet at the crag: -25 points: Always
Climber is wearing a helmet belaying: -20 points: Always (rocks/ice fall where I climb)
-15 for 4th+ class and/or alpine approaches: plenty of those, always have a helmet on.
Climber's shoes are made from natural leather: -10 points
Lace up: -10 points
Climber has a good selection of pieces somewhat tailored to the area: -20 points: I call it the "Leap Rack"
-2 points for each locker that serves an obvious purpose on harness
PAS locker
autoblock locker
extra belay locker keeper
-10 points for each rap ring on the climber's harness: always carry at least one
Prussic cord on harness: -5 points: does a small auto block escape piece count?
+5 for every sport draw (unless it looks like it's been run over several times, then -5)
I have narrowed it down to only two and I barely use them, scratched to hell.
+ 10 for matching cams: I have all Metolious cams, FCU's, TCU's and Mastercams, what can I say they are bomber.
- 30 if their guide is older than you are: My Yellow Tahoe guide is the same age as me.
Total: -149 (and I've only been climbing seriously for a few years, it pays to learn from the old masters)
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jt512
Aug 12, 2009, 4:31 PM
Post #27 of 98
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squishy654 wrote: I've only been climbing seriously for a few years
Then stfu about the butter knives, already.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Aug 12, 2009, 4:31 PM)
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caughtinside
Aug 12, 2009, 4:32 PM
Post #28 of 98
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jt512 wrote: squishy654 wrote: I've only been climbing seriously for a few years Then stfu about the butter knives, already. Jay
Dude, that butter knife is from Curry Village, and it is drilled out and has a keeper loop.
WTF is it for??
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cracklover
Aug 12, 2009, 4:42 PM
Post #29 of 98
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If I rate myself for the last time I went trad cragging, my score is 11. Same number of years I've been climbing. Coincidence?
GO
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fresh
Aug 12, 2009, 5:21 PM
Post #30 of 98
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-36, sigh. I'm much happier with my sport score.
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squishy654
Aug 12, 2009, 5:24 PM
Post #31 of 98
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caughtinside wrote: WTF is it for??
nut tool...
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jt512
Aug 12, 2009, 5:50 PM
Post #32 of 98
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cracklover wrote: If I rate myself for the last time I went trad cragging, my score is 11. Same number of years I've been climbing. Coincidence?
If not, then you'll be a noob in 14 more years.
Jay
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jt512
Aug 12, 2009, 5:51 PM
Post #33 of 98
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caughtinside wrote: jt512 wrote: squishy654 wrote: I've only been climbing seriously for a few years Then stfu about the butter knives, already. Jay Dude, that butter knife is from Curry Village, and it is drilled out and has a keeper loop. WTF is it for??
Read hardmen cut the rope with it.
Jay
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caughtinside
Aug 12, 2009, 5:59 PM
Post #34 of 98
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jt512 wrote: caughtinside wrote: jt512 wrote: squishy654 wrote: I've only been climbing seriously for a few years Then stfu about the butter knives, already. Jay Dude, that butter knife is from Curry Village, and it is drilled out and has a keeper loop. WTF is it for?? Read hardmen cut the rope with it. Jay
I chew through these days. Slow partners get the
CHOMP.
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ladyscarlett
Aug 12, 2009, 7:16 PM
Post #35 of 98
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Registered: Dec 17, 2008
Posts: 376
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gmggg wrote: bill413 wrote: ladyscarlett wrote: I was trying to take this just to see how accurate it is. Since I am confident in my n00b status, I better come up as a n00b! However I couldn't finish the test cause I don't know what these 'bracelet' things are... coolcat83 wrote: +10 for sewn nalgene bracelets -10 for duct tape nalgene bracelets Yeah, it's n00b question and I'm asking it... cheers! ls I think, from the context, that he means those wet-suit material carriers for Nalgene bottles. (n00b) Ahh... I thought it was a keeper for slinging the bottle up. How would camel backs count? +10 (unless your free soloing)
Damn I think I lose, mine has a little harness of 'booty' webbing. Hand sewn - sewing machines are hard to find in the Tuolumne campground.
and then when I looked back, it's been changed! so now my score does too - damn.
The prana hurt me - damn their $15 sale pants!!
I come in at -5. I think this test might need to be reassessed if I'm coming into the negatives. Just sayin...
cheers
ls
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shimanilami
Aug 12, 2009, 7:30 PM
Post #36 of 98
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Posts: 2043
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What do you have against crocs? They're functional and stylish at the same time.
Not that I have a pair or anything ...
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shimanilami
Aug 12, 2009, 7:35 PM
Post #37 of 98
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65 points. If I was at a crag and saw myself in the mirror, I'd have to run in the other direction. (No helmet, matching draws, and crocs did me in.)
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welle
Aug 12, 2009, 7:57 PM
Post #38 of 98
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Registered: Aug 8, 2008
Posts: 212
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I once climbed with someone who had all rigid stems and pretty worn old gear (as opposed to my shiny-ish gear whore rack). Turns out the person had no clue of gear placements and had to be coached to girth hitch a tree with a sling (asks what is girth hitch?). Pretty scary - prolly got the rack off some yard sale or something. So the screening test should be if the climber looks about the same age as his gear or younger - run away!
and I do carry an extra ATC on my harness, because it's so much easier to rig a rappel with these - it's not that heavy anyway... IIRC, munter is not recommended to for multiple rappels...
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welle
Aug 12, 2009, 8:17 PM
Post #40 of 98
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csproul wrote: welle wrote: and I do carry an extra ATC on my harness, because it's so much easier to rig a rappel with these - it's not that heavy anyway... IIRC, munter is not recommended to for multiple rappels...
because of the rope kinks - rappels are usually done when you are mentally and physically tired, mostly at the end of a long day, sometimes with a dark/storm approaching. Less things you have to mentally check on - the better, just my preference...
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welle
Aug 12, 2009, 8:18 PM
Post #41 of 98
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shimanilami wrote: 65 points. If I was at a crag and saw myself in the mirror, I'd have to run in the other direction. (No helmet, matching draws, and crocs did me in.)
did you just acquire crocs within 5 minutes from the previous post?
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csproul
Aug 12, 2009, 8:27 PM
Post #42 of 98
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welle wrote: csproul wrote: welle wrote: and I do carry an extra ATC on my harness, because it's so much easier to rig a rappel with these - it's not that heavy anyway... IIRC, munter is not recommended to for multiple rappels...because of the rope kinks - rappels are usually done when you are mentally and physically tired, mostly at the end of a long day, sometimes with a dark/storm approaching. Less things you have to mentally check on - the better, just my preference...
BTW There should be +100 points for anyone who shows up at the crag in the middle of the day with their headlamp attached to their helmet "just in case".
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shimanilami
Aug 12, 2009, 8:29 PM
Post #43 of 98
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welle wrote: shimanilami wrote: 65 points. If I was at a crag and saw myself in the mirror, I'd have to run in the other direction. (No helmet, matching draws, and crocs did me in.) did you just acquire crocs within 5 minutes from the previous post?
No. Maybe. I'm not saying. It's just that ...
SCREW YOU!!! CROCS RULE!!!
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tigerlilly
Aug 12, 2009, 8:33 PM
Post #44 of 98
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 564
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"jt512 wrote: Helmets for routine trad climbing is totally n00b. Look back at old pics of Yosemite hardmen from the day. Good luck finding a helmet.
If the old ways are always best, then give up your cams and dynamic ropes, oh, and your cell phone, and the car......
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welle
Aug 12, 2009, 8:45 PM
Post #45 of 98
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csproul wrote: BTW There should be +100 points for anyone who shows up at the crag in the middle of the day with their headlamp attached to their helmet "just in case".
LOL, I've seen that early AM in the Gunks with huge expedition style headlamps - cut them a slack as prolly visiting climbers (or nyc show-offs)...
+100 for Arc'Teryx packs to carry gear (tend to be shiny)
-100 for Cold Cold World or Dana Design packs (tend to be dirty)
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rtwilli4
Aug 12, 2009, 8:46 PM
Post #46 of 98
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Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
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I dunno. Depending on the +30 points for tight shoes, I'm either a -6 or a +24. They are lace-ups though.
I get extra points for having a few matching draws.
So I'm somewhere in between a sport climber and a climber who knows more than you... that's about right.
What if I don't have any sort of guide at all? Is that plus or minus?
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suprasoup
Aug 12, 2009, 8:49 PM
Post #47 of 98
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Registered: Mar 7, 2005
Posts: 309
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csproul wrote: welle wrote: csproul wrote: welle wrote: and I do carry an extra ATC on my harness, because it's so much easier to rig a rappel with these - it's not that heavy anyway... IIRC, munter is not recommended to for multiple rappels...because of the rope kinks - rappels are usually done when you are mentally and physically tired, mostly at the end of a long day, sometimes with a dark/storm approaching. Less things you have to mentally check on - the better, just my preference...[/quote ]For that *once every ten year event* when I actually do drop my belay device, I think I can manage to use a munter to get down (or up). This saves me from looking like a gumby the other 1000 climbing days when I haven't dropped my belay device. BTW There should be +100 points for anyone who shows up at the crag in the middle of the day with their headlamp attached to their helmet "just in case". Guess you've never dropped your one and only belay device in the middle of of the night during an ice storm with gale force winds threatening to rip you off your perch and having to do multiple rappels off a munter on frozen ropes.  I hope you never ever experience that one. At the risk of looking like a gumby or noob I'm taking that extra atc.
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welle
Aug 12, 2009, 8:56 PM
Post #48 of 98
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rtwilli4 wrote: What if I don't have any sort of guide at all? Is that plus or minus?
minus at least couple of hundred points - pure onsight, no?
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csproul
Aug 12, 2009, 8:58 PM
Post #49 of 98
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suprasoup wrote: csproul wrote: welle wrote: csproul wrote: welle wrote: and I do carry an extra ATC on my harness, because it's so much easier to rig a rappel with these - it's not that heavy anyway... IIRC, munter is not recommended to for multiple rappels...because of the rope kinks - rappels are usually done when you are mentally and physically tired, mostly at the end of a long day, sometimes with a dark/storm approaching. Less things you have to mentally check on - the better, just my preference...[/quote ]For that *once every ten year event* when I actually do drop my belay device, I think I can manage to use a munter to get down (or up). This saves me from looking like a gumby the other 1000 climbing days when I haven't dropped my belay device. BTW There should be +100 points for anyone who shows up at the crag in the middle of the day with their headlamp attached to their helmet "just in case". Guess you've never dropped your one and only belay device in the middle of of the night during an ice storm with gale force winds threatening to rip you off your perch and having to do multiple rappels off a munter on frozen ropes. I hope you never ever experience that one. At the risk of looking like a gumby or noob I'm taking that extra atc. Not quite that bad, but the one and only time I have dropped my belay device was rapping off Notch Top (RMNP) in the middle of a snow storm. The ropes were pretty frozen (it was winter), but it wasn't quite dark yet. We made it back to our tent as the sun went down. This was well over ten years ago, and I haven't dropped one again, so I think I'll take my chances without the extra.
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suprasoup
Aug 12, 2009, 9:01 PM
Post #50 of 98
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csproul wrote: suprasoup wrote: csproul wrote: welle wrote: csproul wrote: welle wrote: and I do carry an extra ATC on my harness, because it's so much easier to rig a rappel with these - it's not that heavy anyway... IIRC, munter is not recommended to for multiple rappels...because of the rope kinks - rappels are usually done when you are mentally and physically tired, mostly at the end of a long day, sometimes with a dark/storm approaching. Less things you have to mentally check on - the better, just my preference...[/quote ]For that *once every ten year event* when I actually do drop my belay device, I think I can manage to use a munter to get down (or up). This saves me from looking like a gumby the other 1000 climbing days when I haven't dropped my belay device. BTW There should be +100 points for anyone who shows up at the crag in the middle of the day with their headlamp attached to their helmet "just in case". Guess you've never dropped your one and only belay device in the middle of of the night during an ice storm with gale force winds threatening to rip you off your perch and having to do multiple rappels off a munter on frozen ropes. I hope you never ever experience that one. At the risk of looking like a gumby or noob I'm taking that extra atc. Not quite that bad, but the one and only time I have dropped my belay device was rapping off Notch Top (RMNP) in the middle of a snow storm. The ropes were pretty frozen (it was winter), but it wasn't quite dark yet. We made it back to our tent as the sun went down. This was well over ten years ago, and I haven't dropped one again, so I think I'll take my chances without the extra. Well, if you and I ever go climbing together and you drop yours I've got your back 
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