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snoopy138
Mar 27, 2015, 6:43 PM
Post #104726 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: curt wrote: lena_chita wrote: Switching topics, I am so frustrated with my training right now. (or the inability to do it, more like) I'm supposed to be in PE stage. Which means 4x4s and linked boulder circuits. This used to be SOOOO easy to do, the easiest thing to do in the gym. but it is all changed now. In the first place, the gym is a lot busier, so it is hard to find time when you can do this. In the second place, they are switching the setting to one-color-holds-per-boulder problem. It looks good on the wall, and they are getting positive feedback from people who found it too difficult to follow the tape color. But it SUCKS!!!!! for me. Because the walls are much more sparsely set, there are only so many hold colors you can put in one place. So before, if there was no set of 4 problems on the wall that were in the range I needed for 4x4s, I could just throw couple extra holds on the wall, to modify the problems that were already there, or make up another problem or two, from the holds that were already on the wall, and all was good. Now I can't. And the setting is the same, in terms of how frustrating and all over the place the problems are for me. The wall where I was going to do my 4x4s was recently reset. they put 2 easy, ~6 moderate, and 1 "hard+" problems on the wall. And that's all you can do, in terms of color possibilities. Guess what? I can do two easy problems, and 1 hard+. Except it is not hard for me. It is moderate at most, with 2 hard moves right off the ground, and the rest is easy. I guess the holds were too small and crimpy to put them far apart... I haven't been able to do a single "moderate" route. I keep trying... I can see maybe eventually getting two of them. But regardless of grading, this means I can't do 4x4 on that wall. The easy ones are too easy for what I need. The hard one is not continuously pumpy, if I can get through the first two moves, it is a walk. And I can't really put more routes or holds on the wall, because colors! Now the other section was reset, and it is the same story. There are maybe 2 problems that would be in the 4x4 difficulty range for me, but they are not exactly the kind of problems I wanted in 4x4s that I had in mind. I was hoping that if i got to set on this new section from the get-go, I would be able to put 3-4 problems there, that would be what I needed, but I had to leave before I finished, to get Alisa, and when I came back the next day, the wall was filled up, and we are out of colors again, so... it is filled up, but not so filled up that you could just do random add-on and make up your own problems. Sigh... I guess I'll just have to do more road trips. You live in Ohio, not a former SSR anymore. You're technically free to go anywhere.  Curt TECHNICALLY... yes! But wars have been fought over smaller technicalities than this one.
at least once, a war has been fought over a PTFTW.
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snoopy138
Mar 27, 2015, 6:44 PM
Post #104727 of 105309
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well, it was more of a minor skirmish
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snoopy138
Mar 27, 2015, 6:45 PM
Post #104728 of 105309
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and now folks have to put all sorts of protections in place to prevent future occurrences.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Mar 30, 2015, 8:13 PM
Post #104729 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: and now folks have to put all sorts of protections in place to prevent future occurrences.
I'm an ultimate pacifist when it comes to PTFTWs
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snoopy138
Mar 31, 2015, 12:52 AM
Post #104730 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: and now folks have to put all sorts of protections in place to prevent future occurrences. I'm an ultimate pacifist when it comes to PTFTWs
well, it's common knowledge that you're unable to actually have one anyway. green rules.
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dr_feelgood
Mar 31, 2015, 1:49 AM
Post #104731 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: and now folks have to put all sorts of protections in place to prevent future occurrences. I'm an ultimate pacifist when it comes to PTFTWs
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malechoke
Mar 31, 2015, 12:39 PM
Post #104732 of 105309
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I'm in page 4,190, wow! *slowclap*
(This post was edited by malechoke on Mar 31, 2015, 12:40 PM)
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dr_feelgood
Mar 31, 2015, 2:39 PM
Post #104733 of 105309
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malechoke wrote: I'm in page 4,190, wow! *slowclap*
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snoopy138
Mar 31, 2015, 4:04 PM
Post #104734 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: malechoke wrote: I'm in page 4,190, wow! *slowclap* Did you miss something in the thread title or first post?
and an edit.
so weke.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Mar 31, 2015, 6:24 PM
Post #104735 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: and now folks have to put all sorts of protections in place to prevent future occurrences. I'm an ultimate pacifist when it comes to PTFTWs And this was your Munich conference.
God, I love the history nuts. 
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camhead
Apr 7, 2015, 5:04 PM
Post #104736 of 105309
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It's dead around here. Today I actually have an entire day off and am too tired to climb, so I decided to ignite a rap/lower debate across facebook. Woo!
Also (get out the umbrellas), the training finally kicked in! Three new one threes this week, and I can't even get myself pumped on Apollo Reed. ok that's awl.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 7, 2015, 5:47 PM
Post #104737 of 105309
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camhead wrote: It's dead around here. Today I actually have an entire day off and am too tired to climb, so I decided to ignite a rap/lower debate across facebook. Woo! Also (get out the umbrellas), the training finally kicked in! Three new one threes this week, and I can't even get myself pumped on Apollo Reed. ok that's awl.
I hate you. I tried not to, I really did... I mean, I DO have a big umbrella, and I love rain.
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cracklover
Apr 8, 2015, 6:52 PM
Post #104738 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: It's dead around here. Today I actually have an entire day off and am too tired to climb, so I decided to ignite a rap/lower debate across facebook. Woo! Also (get out the umbrellas), the training finally kicked in! Three new one threes this week, and I can't even get myself pumped on Apollo Reed. ok that's awl. I hate you. I tried not to, I really did... I mean, I DO have a big umbrella, and I love rain.
Speaking of training, I'm heading to Utah on Friday for a week in the desert. It will be interesting to see how a grand total of one day climbing outside in the last six months, basically no real crack climbing in the last year, and climbing nothing but bouldery routes in the gym will prepare me for classic desert towers and routes. I am going to get destroyed.
GO
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snoopy138
Apr 8, 2015, 10:03 PM
Post #104739 of 105309
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camhead wrote: It's dead around here. Today I actually have an entire day off and am too tired to climb, so I decided to ignite a rap/lower debate across facebook. Woo! Also (get out the umbrellas), the training finally kicked in! Three new one threes this week, and I can't even get myself pumped on Apollo Reed. ok that's awl.
you didn't want to respond to the rap/lower debate on hear?
which has now become a "can you tard climb at stover" debate. It was more than 10 years ago, but I've followed a route or two there. Don't remember the rock quality being that bad, and the guy pushing that also seems to think the water gap is crappy rock (pretty sure it's fairly solid).
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snoopy138
Apr 8, 2015, 10:05 PM
Post #104740 of 105309
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camhead wrote: It's dead around here. Today I actually have an entire day off and am too tired to climb, so I decided to ignite a rap/lower debate across facebook. Woo! Also (get out the umbrellas), the training finally kicked in! Three new one threes this week, and I can't even get myself pumped on Apollo Reed. ok that's awl.
weren't you supposed to be going to UT and climbing moonlight pretty soon?
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camhead
Apr 8, 2015, 11:39 PM
Post #104741 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: It's dead around here. Today I actually have an entire day off and am too tired to climb, so I decided to ignite a rap/lower debate across facebook. Woo! Also (get out the umbrellas), the training finally kicked in! Three new one threes this week, and I can't even get myself pumped on Apollo Reed. ok that's awl. weren't you supposed to be going to UT and climbing moonlight pretty soon?
Two weaks!!!
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granite_grrl
Apr 9, 2015, 1:19 PM
Post #104742 of 105309
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So I finally got most of the creakiness out of my fingers and I'm trying a much more regulated hangboard workout. Just trying out the beginner workout in the manderson book to try to get a feeling for how much weight to take off, etc. It would be sweet to have the rock prodigy board, but I have the beastmaker 1000 and I'll deal with that.
My biggest issue is that I'm limited with the pockets and sloppers on there (as in, I have 4, 3 and 2 finger pockets and two sloppers and I'm not capable of using all the holds) and I'm throwing in some repeat holds to get 9 sets. Still feeling some tweakiness on the two finger pockets even with a bunch of weight removed, so I'm not pushing too hard.
Wrote down what I did, noted what weights I should be trying next week. Hoping to get out climbing this weekend, so I don't think I'll be doing a dedicated hangboard cycle.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 9, 2015, 5:59 PM
Post #104743 of 105309
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cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: It's dead around here. Today I actually have an entire day off and am too tired to climb, so I decided to ignite a rap/lower debate across facebook. Woo! Also (get out the umbrellas), the training finally kicked in! Three new one threes this week, and I can't even get myself pumped on Apollo Reed. ok that's awl. I hate you. I tried not to, I really did... I mean, I DO have a big umbrella, and I love rain. Speaking of training, I'm heading to Utah on Friday for a week in the desert. It will be interesting to see how a grand total of one day climbing outside in the last six months, basically no real crack climbing in the last year, and climbing nothing but bouldery routes in the gym will prepare me for classic desert towers and routes. I am going to get destroyed. GO
You'll be fine. Haven't you heard camhead talk about how gym climbing is awesome?
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 9, 2015, 7:01 PM
Post #104744 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: So I finally got most of the creakiness out of my fingers and I'm trying a much more regulated hangboard workout. Just trying out the beginner workout in the manderson book to try to get a feeling for how much weight to take off, etc. It would be sweet to have the rock prodigy board, but I have the beastmaker 1000 and I'll deal with that. My biggest issue is that I'm limited with the pockets and sloppers on there (as in, I have 4, 3 and 2 finger pockets and two sloppers and I'm not capable of using all the holds) and I'm throwing in some repeat holds to get 9 sets. Still feeling some tweakiness on the two finger pockets even with a bunch of weight removed, so I'm not pushing too hard. Wrote down what I did, noted what weights I should be trying next week. Hoping to get out climbing this weekend, so I don't think I'll be doing a dedicated hangboard cycle.
Don't you have a small wall? If you have two identical holds of the right shape, you could mount them shoulder-width and have that as your "hangboard" for some of the holds. I did that with pinches, until I got the rockprodigy board.
I never did the beginner workout. I started with the intermediate, and so did Ed. Well, to be precise, the first two hangboard cycles that I did, I didn't do the timing that RCTM lists, this was before the RTCM, the original rockprodigy method was 6 holds, 6 sets of 6...
In other non-climbing gnus, I started doing the tabada-style workout (you know, one of those 7 minute complete whole body workouts that are "scientifically proven"... 30 sec on, 10 sec off, interval training. Everything from jumping jacks to pushups to crunches to step-ups, lunges, plank, squats, triceps dips, etc.). Today was day 3. And I am sore as hell. But it's nice to have a partner in crime... I mean in a workout. Ed's doing it, too. And 7 minutes is manageable. Though after this week we are going to add a second circuit and make it 15 minutes. Maybe.
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dr_feelgood
Apr 10, 2015, 3:47 AM
Post #104745 of 105309
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For those of you who do not know, Jasper is currently in a cone.
Jasper managed to shatter his cone on day 5.
Luckily, he is cute enough*
That the PETCO(C) ladies gave me a free new one.
#goodstorybro
*and, my masculine rugged appearance didn't hurt
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granite_grrl
Apr 10, 2015, 12:28 PM
Post #104746 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: So I finally got most of the creakiness out of my fingers and I'm trying a much more regulated hangboard workout. Just trying out the beginner workout in the manderson book to try to get a feeling for how much weight to take off, etc. It would be sweet to have the rock prodigy board, but I have the beastmaker 1000 and I'll deal with that. My biggest issue is that I'm limited with the pockets and sloppers on there (as in, I have 4, 3 and 2 finger pockets and two sloppers and I'm not capable of using all the holds) and I'm throwing in some repeat holds to get 9 sets. Still feeling some tweakiness on the two finger pockets even with a bunch of weight removed, so I'm not pushing too hard. Wrote down what I did, noted what weights I should be trying next week. Hoping to get out climbing this weekend, so I don't think I'll be doing a dedicated hangboard cycle. Don't you have a small wall? If you have two identical holds of the right shape, you could mount them shoulder-width and have that as your "hangboard" for some of the holds. I did that with pinches, until I got the rockprodigy board. I never did the beginner workout. I started with the intermediate, and so did Ed. Well, to be precise, the first two hangboard cycles that I did, I didn't do the timing that RCTM lists, this was before the RTCM, the original rockprodigy method was 6 holds, 6 sets of 6... In other non-climbing gnus, I started doing the tabada-style workout (you know, one of those 7 minute complete whole body workouts that are "scientifically proven"... 30 sec on, 10 sec off, interval training. Everything from jumping jacks to pushups to crunches to step-ups, lunges, plank, squats, triceps dips, etc.). Today was day 3. And I am sore as hell. But it's nice to have a partner in crime... I mean in a workout. Ed's doing it, too. And 7 minutes is manageable. Though after this week we are going to add a second circuit and make it 15 minutes. Maybe.
I was going to start with the intermediate workout, but I thought a few sessions of the beginner workout to figure out the weight thing and get a bit more of the creakiness out of my fingers was a good idea.
I think I mentioned I was going to make Nathan make me some pinches. We have very few doubles for holds at home, and the few I can think of are one the wall on problems already. Besides, wooden grips will be easier on my skin anyway.
I have two pretty okay sloppers on the Beastmaker, and the 4 finger pockets are essentially a rail I figure. I think it's just the pinches that I'm really missing.
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granite_grrl
Apr 10, 2015, 12:30 PM
Post #104747 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: For those of you who do not know, Jasper is currently in a cone. Jasper managed to shatter his cone on day 5. Luckily, he is cute enough* That the PETCO(C) ladies gave me a free new one. #goodstorybro *and, my masculine rugged appearance didn't hurt
I saw that on instagram (the cone thing). What did he do to himself in the first place?
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cracklover
Apr 10, 2015, 1:03 PM
Post #104748 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: It's dead around here. Today I actually have an entire day off and am too tired to climb, so I decided to ignite a rap/lower debate across facebook. Woo! Also (get out the umbrellas), the training finally kicked in! Three new one threes this week, and I can't even get myself pumped on Apollo Reed. ok that's awl. I hate you. I tried not to, I really did... I mean, I DO have a big umbrella, and I love rain. Speaking of training, I'm heading to Utah on Friday for a week in the desert. It will be interesting to see how a grand total of one day climbing outside in the last six months, basically no real crack climbing in the last year, and climbing nothing but bouldery routes in the gym will prepare me for classic desert towers and routes. I am going to get destroyed. GO You'll be fine. Haven't you heard camhead talk about how gym climbing is awesome?
Ya, maybe for the New and the Gunks. My massive (yeah right) bouldering overhanging crimp strength will be about as useful for the next nine days as my Creek rack has been for the last five months.
Still, I have been trying to work power endurance for the last three weeks, so I may not be completely useless.
Time to go find out. Have a good week, gerks.
GO
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dr_feelgood
Apr 10, 2015, 7:49 PM
Post #104749 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: For those of you who do not know, Jasper is currently in a cone. Jasper managed to shatter his cone on day 5. Luckily, he is cute enough* That the PETCO(C) ladies gave me a free new one. #goodstorybro *and, my masculine rugged appearance didn't hurt I saw that on instagram (the cone thing). What did he do to himself in the first place?
Oh he scratched himself some dermatitis.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 13, 2015, 5:37 PM
Post #104750 of 105309
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Weekend report.
I have it on good authority that Mr Camhead, the NRG local (!!!!!) got lost (!!!!!) hiking to the crag at the New this weekend, and accidentally ended up at Sandstonia, in n00b paradize.
Can jack come here and do his "poyntz and laffs" thing?
He also made his girlfriend carry the bigger pack, under the guise of getting her to do some easy climbs. Hurray for gunkie girlfriends who like this kind of treatment.
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