I would never ever ever climb a mixed route. It's either got to be fully sport or all trad.
Why not?
Because if I spray about climbing the route, people will say it was just a mixed route, and I will not get as many props from my bros.
So... you will get more "props from your bros" from doing a splitter crack with cam placements every three feet than from doing a runout bolted-on-lead slab with occasional rattly tcu's in horizontals?
I would never ever ever climb a mixed route. It's either got to be fully sport or all trad.
Why not?
Because if I spray about climbing the route, people will say it was just a mixed route, and I will not get as many props from my bros.
So... you will get more "props from your bros" from doing a splitter crack with cam placements every three feet than from doing a runout bolted-on-lead slab with occasional rattly tcu's in horizontals?
Heh, troll'd.
We have a winner.
damn, I feel stupid. eating pwnbread right now.
I climb routes with mixed pro all of the time. Especially ones with rattly Tcus. If only I had bros to spray to though. That would be the life.
Quite a few in NC. If you're feeling brave you can hit only the bolts, but plenty of gear placements
But is it a sport bolted route? Josh has a ton of routes that are just face and bolted, but 3 bolts in 100-120 feet is not a sport route. Furthermore, they have trad climbs that take gear, but have a bolt or two. Since the crack crosses the climb, or ends half way up. Like my profile pic. Again not a mixed route, just the rock required some protection, but didn't provide an option for gear. OK rant off...
Quite a few in NC. If you're feeling brave you can hit only the bolts, but plenty of gear placements
But is it a sport bolted route? Josh has a ton of routes that are just face and bolted, but 3 bolts in 100-120 feet is not a sport route. Furthermore, they have trad climbs that take gear, but have a bolt or two. Since the crack crosses the climb, or ends half way up. Like my profile pic. Again not a mixed route, just the rock required some protection, but didn't provide an option for gear. OK rant off...
If he is talking about the same North Carolina as I am, they are definitely not sport routes by any stretch of the imagination.
One of those terms that changed over the course of time. At least this one still has some reliance on context.
Actually, it's just another example of a well defined and understood climbing term being employed incorrectly--and a bunch of retards not knowing any better.
Awhile back I remember seeing some pictures of outdoor rock faces that had plastic holds bolted on to form "routes". I highly doubt I would ever climb a route like that.
Quite a few in NC. If you're feeling brave you can hit only the bolts, but plenty of gear placements
But is it a sport bolted route? Josh has a ton of routes that are just face and bolted, but 3 bolts in 100-120 feet is not a sport route. Furthermore, they have trad climbs that take gear, but have a bolt or two. Since the crack crosses the climb, or ends half way up. Like my profile pic. Again not a mixed route, just the rock required some protection, but didn't provide an option for gear. OK rant off...
If he is talking about the same North Carolina as I am, they are definitely not sport routes by any stretch of the imagination.
I'm not from that part of the country, but that is what I have heard about NC.
One of those terms that changed over the course of time. At least this one still has some reliance on context.
Actually, it's just another example of a well defined and understood climbing term being employed incorrectly--and a bunch of retards not knowing any better.
Curt
So-called "mixed" routes are trad climbs as far as I'm concerned, but we pick our battles, and this ain't one of mine.
Yea, that could be called a mixed route. The bolts are close, qualifing for sport status, leading to an unbotled crack that takes gear.
[terrible Aussi accent] You call this a mixed climb?!
THIS is a mixed climb! [/terrible Aussi accent]
Yea, I know. I'm just saying, if they want to use the term for mixed trad/sport, then I would accept the top photo. Not a route w/ the occassional bolt on the slab section on a long trad route.
One of those terms that changed over the course of time. At least this one still has some reliance on context.
Actually, it's just another example of a well defined and understood climbing term being employed incorrectly--and a bunch of retards not knowing any better.
Curt
So-called "mixed" routes are trad climbs as far as I'm concerned, but we pick our battles, and this ain't one of mine.
That is my thought too.... besides, how many trad routes have bolted belays? I'm sure there are plenty.
I wouldn't really consider face up to that crack a mixed route. It is more like a sport climb with an optional piece or two of protection at the easiest (and only good part) of the climb.
One of those terms that changed over the course of time. At least this one still has some reliance on context.
Actually, it's just another example of a well defined and understood climbing term being employed incorrectly--and a bunch of retards not knowing any better.
Curt
So-called "mixed" routes are trad climbs as far as I'm concerned, but we pick our battles, and this ain't one of mine.
That is my thought too.... besides, how many trad routes have bolted belays? I'm sure there are plenty.
Yup, either it's a trad climb that has a bolt or two, or a sport climb where you have to place a piece of gear (which is stupid, IMO, but they exist....yay Ontario! ).
Quite a few in NC. If you're feeling brave you can hit only the bolts, but plenty of gear placements
But is it a sport bolted route? Josh has a ton of routes that are just face and bolted, but 3 bolts in 100-120 feet is not a sport route. Furthermore, they have trad climbs that take gear, but have a bolt or two. Since the crack crosses the climb, or ends half way up. Like my profile pic. Again not a mixed route, just the rock required some protection, but didn't provide an option for gear. OK rant off...
If he is talking about the same North Carolina as I am, they are definitely not sport routes by any stretch of the imagination.
I'm not from that part of the country, but that is what I have heard about NC.
There are quite a few bolted sport routes at Pilot Mtn, Crowder's Mtn, and Rumbling Bald. And at least one at Stone Mtn.
Quite a few in NC. If you're feeling brave you can hit only the bolts, but plenty of gear placements
But is it a sport bolted route? Josh has a ton of routes that are just face and bolted, but 3 bolts in 100-120 feet is not a sport route. Furthermore, they have trad climbs that take gear, but have a bolt or two. Since the crack crosses the climb, or ends half way up. Like my profile pic. Again not a mixed route, just the rock required some protection, but didn't provide an option for gear. OK rant off...
If he is talking about the same North Carolina as I am, they are definitely not sport routes by any stretch of the imagination.
I'm not from that part of the country, but that is what I have heard about NC.
There are quite a few bolted sport routes at Pilot Mtn, Crowder's Mtn, and Rumbling Bald. And at least one at Stone Mtn.
Quite a few in NC. If you're feeling brave you can hit only the bolts, but plenty of gear placements
But is it a sport bolted route? Josh has a ton of routes that are just face and bolted, but 3 bolts in 100-120 feet is not a sport route. Furthermore, they have trad climbs that take gear, but have a bolt or two. Since the crack crosses the climb, or ends half way up. Like my profile pic. Again not a mixed route, just the rock required some protection, but didn't provide an option for gear. OK rant off...
If he is talking about the same North Carolina as I am, they are definitely not sport routes by any stretch of the imagination.
I'm not from that part of the country, but that is what I have heard about NC.
There are quite a few bolted sport routes at Pilot Mtn, Crowder's Mtn, and Rumbling Bald. And at least one at Stone Mtn.
You mean to say bolted trad(ish) route, right?
There are legitimate sport routes in North Carolina, but they are few and far between.
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