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thebadgerrogers
Dec 29, 2009, 10:32 PM
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Hi all,
I live in UK and will be travelling to the US specifically for sport climbing next year (season depends on destination). So where's the best place to visit? I climbing mid-grades up to French 7a.
Ideally I want somewhere that has a cool vibe and plenty to do aside climbing if the going gets wet or hungover!
Any advice gratefully received. I've never been to the States so I'm hoping for a bit of adventure!!
Thanks
Nathan
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shockabuku
Dec 29, 2009, 11:00 PM
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I'd recommend Ten Sleep Canyon in Wyoming but there's not really much else there. The climbing is great though.
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pfwein
Dec 29, 2009, 11:37 PM
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People say Red River Gorge is the only "world class" sport climbing destination in US.
I'm most familiar with Colorado: Rifle, CO is pretty good but at your level you will not be able to get on most of the popular, classic routes, which tend to be harder than 7a. Shelf Road (CO) is also good but I doubt it's considered to be destination quality from a long way a way--otherwise, CO has OK climbing but not really great sport--don't let the huge number of climbers from Boulder fool you.
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rhythm164
Dec 30, 2009, 12:29 AM
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pfwein wrote: People say Red River Gorge is the only "world class" sport climbing destination in US.
those folks have never been to Rumney
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jajen
Dec 30, 2009, 12:39 AM
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rhythm164 wrote: pfwein wrote: People say Red River Gorge is the only "world class" sport climbing destination in US. those folks have never been to Rumney
Yes we have.
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rock_fencer
Dec 30, 2009, 1:26 AM
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or smith rock, though i didn't climb a single sport route when i was there. Oh and i second that Rumney is way better than RRG
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munky
Dec 30, 2009, 2:06 AM
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I hate to say it but most of the great sport climbing areas in the states are on not in what I would call the most exciting areas culturally. With that said, you might want to look at the New River Gorge, Smith Rock, Red River Gorge, Maple Canyon, American Fork, Boulder Canyon, Clear Creek, and Red Rocks. Of the fore mentioned areas Red Rocks is probably your best bet for night life (general debauchery- though I hate to have you think America is really like Vegas) to compensate the climbing. Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek along with the various Denver area crags are not world class (not even close to the best in the US) but between the craggin and the cultural attractions you might be happy there. Also, the Utah crags are a good mix of culture and climbing but again not the best climbing in the states. If climbing is the focus and not seeing Americana, my pics would be the New River Gorge, Red River Gorge, and Smith Rocks for America's best sport climbing areas. the NRG is about 5 hrs from Washington DC, 3.5 hrs from Charlotte and Pittsburgh two other decent cities. If you want to see the best of the best of American climbing you should go to California and see Yosemite Valley, Zion and the rest of the Desert is also awesome. It's a big country man, and impossible to see all of it and its various different styles and vibes in one trip. It would take at least a half a year or more to do that but do your research and you're sure to have fun. HOpefully some of this babble helps.
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zeth01
Dec 30, 2009, 4:58 AM
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southern utah. arizona border
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cracklover
Dec 30, 2009, 5:21 AM
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What time of year?
GO
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dudemanbu
Dec 30, 2009, 5:47 AM
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rhythm164 wrote: pfwein wrote: People say Red River Gorge is the only "world class" sport climbing destination in US. those folks have never been to Rumney
I love Rumney, but the Red totally manhandles it.
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dagibbs
Dec 30, 2009, 6:52 AM
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Does it have to be strictly USA? Because I would say the best sport-climbing destination in North America is probably El Potrero Chico, in Mexico. (Though, it isn't too far from the US border in Texas.)
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thebadgerrogers
Dec 30, 2009, 10:42 AM
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Coolio, thanks to everyone for replying. There are some great suggestions here and some of the place names keep coming up!
So, I'm gonna check out some of the local websites for all of the crags you recommend and make some plans. The only one I've looked up so far is Red River Gorge which looks very good albeit the woodland, rolling hills and sandstone sound very much like home! (Kent, UK) Although Miguel's pizza's sounds good!!
Once I've done some hunting and made some decisions I'll post again. It'd be great to meet up with some locals for the low-down on the best routes.
Thanks again.
Nathan
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dbogardus
Dec 30, 2009, 1:33 PM
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*Hoping this thread turns into Rumney vs RRG.*
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sidepull
Dec 30, 2009, 3:33 PM
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zeth01 wrote: southern utah. arizona border
Yep. if you make St. George your basecamp you have your choice of limestone, sandstone, and volcanic.
Maple canyon is hard to beat in terms of the quality of movement and the sheer amount of routes. Every time I've been there I've run into some international group that decided to stay for a month. Not much to do on rest days so bring a good book and a guitar.
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scottek67
Dec 30, 2009, 4:00 PM
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thebadgerrogers wrote: Hi all, I live in UK and will be travelling to the US specifically for sport climbing next year (season depends on destination). So where's the best place to visit? I climbing mid-grades up to French 7a. Ideally I want somewhere that has a cool vibe and plenty to do aside climbing if the going gets wet or hungover! Any advice gratefully received. I've never been to the States so I'm hoping for a bit of adventure!! Thanks Nathan
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zeth01
Dec 30, 2009, 4:09 PM
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cracklover wrote: What time of year? GO
you can climb in the area year round but getting into arizona might be dfficult this time of year you'll want to ask locals before heading if theres been snow and if theres access to the climbing. it's all unpaved roads once you enter arizona. i just like the area because theres limestone, sandstone, basalt... trad, bouldering and sport all near each other. this is st. george area that 'm talking about.
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pfwein
Dec 30, 2009, 4:33 PM
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scottek67 wrote: thebadgerrogers wrote: Hi all, I live in UK and will be travelling to the US specifically for sport climbing next year (season depends on destination). So where's the best place to visit? I climbing mid-grades up to French 7a. Ideally I want somewhere that has a cool vibe and plenty to do aside climbing if the going gets wet or hungover! Any advice gratefully received. I've never been to the States so I'm hoping for a bit of adventure!! Thanks Nathan Skip it! Head for Canada or go south to Mexico!
Great idea: make sure you take your own advice.
Look forward to NOT seeing you. 
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olderic
Dec 30, 2009, 4:57 PM
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zeth01 wrote: cracklover wrote: What time of year? GO you can climb in the area year round but getting into arizona might be dfficult this time of year you'll want to ask locals before heading if theres been snow and if theres access to the climbing. it's all unpaved roads once you enter arizona. i just like the area because theres limestone, sandstone, basalt... trad, bouldering and sport all near each other. this is st. george area that 'm talking about.
He started out saying "season depends on destination" (read before you respond) - so it sounds like he is flexible. But it is an important qusetion. You probably don't want to focus on any place east of the Mississippi or in the Southwest in the summer. Don't want to be in Wyoming, Colorado or Utah - for sport climbing anywasy - in the winter. So it does depend.
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sspssp
Dec 30, 2009, 8:57 PM
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You might also add how long you are going to be in the states (do you have time for more than one location) and what appeals to you as a "cool vibe".
I don't really care for Las Vegas, but it is a party town and the strip is a rather surreal place.
Utah (Salt Lake City) would not be on my list of party places, but there are a lot of scenic attractions that you aren't going to find in the UK. Especially if you are willing to drive down to the Arches, Canyon Lands National Parks area.
The areas in the eastern part of the US aren't the places I would necessarily recommend to first time visitors to the US (excepting New York), but I'm probably biased living on the west coast. They do have some good sport climbing areas thoughs.
(This post was edited by sspssp on Dec 30, 2009, 9:00 PM)
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marc801
Dec 30, 2009, 9:13 PM
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sidepull wrote: zeth01 wrote: southern utah. arizona border Yep. if you make St. George your basecamp you have your choice of limestone, sandstone, and volcanic. Maple canyon is hard to beat in terms of the quality of movement and the sheer amount of routes. Every time I've been there I've run into some international group that decided to stay for a month. Not much to do on rest days so bring a good book and a guitar.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned Owens River Gorge in Bishop, CA as an option.
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thebadgerrogers
Dec 30, 2009, 9:30 PM
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Fantastic advice, now I really have options!!!
From what you've said and from some Googling earlier today, here's what I've deduced so far...
Rumney; The climbing sounds excellent and the local vicinity sounds, well a bit British! (hope there's no offence in that comment). Red River Gorge sounds like it has similar climbing but the local area is quieter. Bit worried I might feel like it's a bit like home/Central France?
Southern Utah and the area North of Salt Lake City both sound awesome and I figure staying North means Rifle, CO might be an option too?
I'm aiming for a two-week stay so maybe Utah/Colorado has more to offer?
I spent 10 days in Squamish last summer (well, May so it rained a lot) and loved the chilled out feel of the place. If anyone has been to the Howe Sound Inn, you'll know exactly what I mean and if I could recreate that 'feel' I'd be stoaked!
All of your advice has been welcomed and it's really helping me suss out my plans :-)
I have to stay I assumed the US would be filled with countless crags so I'm surprised that a relatively small number of top-locations have come up again and again. It makes me realise that the UK has a huge number of sweet destinations - I'm clearly spoiled!!
Nath
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Gmburns2000
Dec 30, 2009, 9:52 PM
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There are a TON of great destinations in the US, but you limited the options when you specifically asked for sport destinations.
Not that it means anything, just saying.
Have fun when you come over, and if you can, hook up with some folks who have trad gear and you're options will expand quite a bit.
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camhead
Dec 30, 2009, 10:03 PM
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Nath, there are tons of little sport crags throughout the US, but very few are worth touting to someone who is making the trip over here; that's why the same ones are coming up over and over here.
As for my input, it all depends on if you want JUST a climbing destination, or if you are looking for general outdoor or even tourist activities, with some climbing on the side. For the best pure climbing at your level, opportunity to improve, accessible climbers' amenities, and ease of finding partners, etc., I would go ahead and recommend the Red River Gorge.
One area that has not yet been mentioned here (I don't think) is City of Rocks in Idaho. Plenty of crags walking distance from the campground, easy to find partners, beautiful area. It's best in early fall or late spring, and is climbable through the summer. Almost all sport climbs there are slabby, technical, and sometimes sparsely bolted.
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shockabuku
Dec 30, 2009, 10:03 PM
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thebadgerrogers wrote: I have to stay I assumed the US would be filled with countless crags so I'm surprised that a relatively small number of top-locations have come up again and again. It makes me realise that the UK has a huge number of sweet destinations - I'm clearly spoiled!! Nath
I don't follow your logic. How many first class destinations did you expect? There's lots of other places, these are the ones at the top of the list.
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marc801
Dec 30, 2009, 10:19 PM
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camhead wrote: One area that has not yet been mentioned here (I don't think) is City of Rocks in Idaho. Plenty of crags walking distance from the campground, easy to find partners, beautiful area. It's best in early fall or late spring, and is climbable through the summer. Almost all sport climbs there are slabby, technical, and sometimes sparsely bolted.
* While there are pure sport routes, the general ethic there is: if there is a gear placement, there will not be a bolt. There are many fully bolted routes (including a number of excellent 5.7s - 5.10s), but there are also quite a few "sport" routes that demand a couple of cams and a nut or two on the rack to do safely.
* There are no local diversions for rest/weather/hangover days. The nearest town of any significance - Burley - is about an hour away, and Burley is hardly party-central. (The same applies to Maple Canyon in Utah, by the way.)
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