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zeke_sf
Feb 3, 2010, 4:13 PM
Post #26 of 34
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Gmburns2000 wrote: OK, I'm hoping BEC can come in here and discuss, but apparently a yosemite finish can untie a figure 8. I'm not sure how it can happen, but apparently BEC had someone show him that it can be done, and apparently it is the yosemite finish that does this. Personally, I've always been a bit suspicious of a yosemite finish, so I've always gone with a figure 9, but I can't say any more than that other than I know someone who I trust who has seen it happen. I'd love to hear someone else's perspective on this.
The figure 9 is what I use, I just call it the Yosemite finish. That's what I learned it as. I'm still much more suspicious of stiff rope with a slick sheath. I actually commented on those qualities of the rope before my knot came partially untied.
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AntinJ
Feb 3, 2010, 4:30 PM
Post #27 of 34
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Gmburns2000 wrote: OK, I'm hoping BEC can come in here and discuss, but apparently a yosemite finish can untie a figure 8. I'm not sure how it can happen, but apparently BEC had someone show him that it can be done, and apparently it is the yosemite finish that does this. Personally, I've always been a bit suspicious of a yosemite finish, so I've always gone with a figure 9, but I can't say any more than that other than I know someone who I trust who has seen it happen. I'd love to hear someone else's perspective on this.
A reputable NH Guide showed me how a Yosemite finish can untie itself. It took him quite a bit of manipulating, but eventually the knot cam untied.
Regardless, I still use the Yos Finish 95% of the time.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 3, 2010, 4:31 PM
Post #28 of 34
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zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: OK, I'm hoping BEC can come in here and discuss, but apparently a yosemite finish can untie a figure 8. I'm not sure how it can happen, but apparently BEC had someone show him that it can be done, and apparently it is the yosemite finish that does this. Personally, I've always been a bit suspicious of a yosemite finish, so I've always gone with a figure 9, but I can't say any more than that other than I know someone who I trust who has seen it happen. I'd love to hear someone else's perspective on this. The figure 9 is what I use, I just call it the Yosemite finish. That's what I learned it as. I'm still much more suspicious of stiff rope with a slick sheath. I actually commented on those qualities of the rope before my knot came partially untied.
So I'm a total n00b on this, but I was under the impression that a yosemite finish was when you took the end and passed it back down through the bottom of the knot, and that the figure 9 was when you wrapped the end around the rope at the top (the part that goes back to the belay device - eventually) and then tucked it back down through the bottom.
in other words, the only difference between the two is that a figure 9 goes up and around before being tucked in while a yosemite finish doesn't do the extra wrap.
the reason I mention this is because the conversation I had I was under the impression that it can't happen with a figure 9 but can with a yosemite finish (the figure 8 coming untied, that is)
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Gmburns2000
Feb 3, 2010, 4:33 PM
Post #29 of 34
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AntinJ wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: OK, I'm hoping BEC can come in here and discuss, but apparently a yosemite finish can untie a figure 8. I'm not sure how it can happen, but apparently BEC had someone show him that it can be done, and apparently it is the yosemite finish that does this. Personally, I've always been a bit suspicious of a yosemite finish, so I've always gone with a figure 9, but I can't say any more than that other than I know someone who I trust who has seen it happen. I'd love to hear someone else's perspective on this. A reputable NH Guide showed me how a Yosemite finish can untie itself. It took him quite a bit of manipulating, but eventually the knot cam untied. Regardless, I still use the Yos Finish 95% of the time.
sorry, to be more clear, I was under the impression that a yosemite finish can lead to the figure 8 coming untied. I can totally believe a yosemite finish by itself coming out.
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bkalaska
Feb 3, 2010, 4:36 PM
Post #30 of 34
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erolls wrote: When I tie a yos finish I leave enough of a loop in the last pass to get a finger underneath. But, you must properly dress and tighten the entire knot after making last pass or it will remain loose. Cheers-E
I used to do that until one time... I got to an anchor, clipped into the anchor with a locker, looked down to double check before asking to be taken off belay and realized that I had clipped into the finger sized loop by accident.
I still use that finish while leading, but I never leave a loop for loosening anymore.
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zeke_sf
Feb 5, 2010, 2:36 PM
Post #31 of 34
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Gmburns2000 wrote: zeke_sf wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: OK, I'm hoping BEC can come in here and discuss, but apparently a yosemite finish can untie a figure 8. I'm not sure how it can happen, but apparently BEC had someone show him that it can be done, and apparently it is the yosemite finish that does this. Personally, I've always been a bit suspicious of a yosemite finish, so I've always gone with a figure 9, but I can't say any more than that other than I know someone who I trust who has seen it happen. I'd love to hear someone else's perspective on this. The figure 9 is what I use, I just call it the Yosemite finish. That's what I learned it as. I'm still much more suspicious of stiff rope with a slick sheath. I actually commented on those qualities of the rope before my knot came partially untied. So I'm a total n00b on this, but I was under the impression that a yosemite finish was when you took the end and passed it back down through the bottom of the knot, and that the figure 9 was when you wrapped the end around the rope at the top (the part that goes back to the belay device - eventually) and then tucked it back down through the bottom. in other words, the only difference between the two is that a figure 9 goes up and around before being tucked in while a yosemite finish doesn't do the extra wrap. the reason I mention this is because the conversation I had I was under the impression that it can't happen with a figure 9 but can with a yosemite finish (the figure 8 coming untied, that is)
Yes, figure 9 is what I use. That's why I'd say I didn't use it because it was my 8 that was coming untied.
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dingus
Feb 5, 2010, 3:18 PM
Post #32 of 34
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erolls wrote: When I tie a yos finish I leave enough of a loop in the last pass to get a finger underneath.
Why do you do this? I've seen others do it too and have meant to ask but haven't. And if you don't mind, where did you learn this method?
Curiosity
DMT
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csproul
Feb 5, 2010, 3:47 PM
Post #33 of 34
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The idea is that leaving a small loop makes it easier to untie the knot after you fall on it. You can get your finger in the loop and pull the finish out and then untie the rest of the knot.
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gunkiemike
Feb 8, 2010, 11:23 PM
Post #34 of 34
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FYI to the OP - ropes don't feel windchill. They will cool down to the thermometer reading and no lower (if they are dry anyway. But evaporative cooling isn't that great once you get below freezing).
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