|
mrtristan
Feb 16, 2010, 5:40 PM
Post #1 of 35
(4137 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 21, 2002
Posts: 596
|
I really want a Fish Snake Charmer...
|
|
|
|
|
shimanilami
Feb 16, 2010, 6:13 PM
Post #2 of 35
(4117 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
|
A pair of USHBA's. And I need a new rope.
|
|
|
|
|
danull16
Feb 16, 2010, 6:23 PM
Post #3 of 35
(4110 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 30, 2009
Posts: 67
|
new shoes. not sure which ones, maybe moccs.
|
|
|
|
|
hafilax
Feb 16, 2010, 6:26 PM
Post #4 of 35
(4107 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2007
Posts: 3025
|
Yeah, new rope.
Some micro-nuts and ball nuts are on the list too.
Oh and a #4 C4.
My slings are getting pretty old and fuzzy.
Most of that will have to wait until I'm rich. 
|
|
|
|
|
devildog0801
Feb 16, 2010, 6:33 PM
Post #5 of 35
(4098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 15, 2010
Posts: 34
|
I still rent, so I'll be getting a harness and shoes mighty soon! Maybe this weekend.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Feb 16, 2010, 7:48 PM
Post #6 of 35
(4023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
I'm tossing around the possibility of Totem Cams.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Feb 16, 2010, 7:51 PM
Post #7 of 35
(4020 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
A 00 Tcu or equivalent.
|
|
|
|
|
wallwombat
Feb 16, 2010, 8:13 PM
Post #8 of 35
(3999 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 727
|
Some light weight biners for my cams.
And a new head torch to replace my missing Petzl Tikka Plus.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Feb 16, 2010, 8:17 PM
Post #9 of 35
(3998 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
j_ung wrote: I'm tossing around the possibility of Totem Cams.
Whenever I watch the Totem Cams video, I think to myself, every single route at Looking Glass is going to have pro every two or three feet.
|
|
|
|
|
patmay81
Feb 16, 2010, 8:23 PM
Post #10 of 35
(3992 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2006
Posts: 1081
|
wallwombat wrote: And a new head torch to replace my missing Petzl Tikka Plus.
I think my next buy will be the 'new' link cam sizes. i could use a new rope too.
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Feb 16, 2010, 9:52 PM
Post #11 of 35
(3947 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
Crack Shoes
Haul Line
|
|
|
|
|
zeke_sf
Feb 16, 2010, 10:06 PM
Post #12 of 35
(3935 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
|
j_ung wrote: I'm tossing around the possibility of Totem Cams.
They finally came out?!
I'm thinking shoes whenever REI gives me back a little from this years gear whorery. Leaning towards Miuras.
|
|
|
|
|
jbro_135
Feb 16, 2010, 10:08 PM
Post #13 of 35
(3932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 15, 2009
Posts: 662
|
just ordered some new moccasyms, next purchase is either a rope or some draws
|
|
|
|
|
mtnkid85
Feb 16, 2010, 10:26 PM
Post #14 of 35
(3910 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2005
Posts: 221
|
Well ordered a set of Awaxs today, so need to put a lid on the spending. But Ill pickup some strikes, grip tape and some hammer picks for them in the future.
Also want a bivy sack, screamers and a few dead men.
Oh yea, I need to put a lid on the spending!
|
|
|
|
|
tigerlilly
Feb 17, 2010, 1:11 AM
Post #15 of 35
(3861 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 564
|
Plane tix to Red Rocks!
Woot!
Kathy
P.S. And maybe a v-thread tool for the next time I think "oh, I can climb that" without consulting a guidebook.
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Feb 17, 2010, 1:41 AM
Post #16 of 35
(3841 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
a protaledge x 2 with fly plus other hi-alt expd gear
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Feb 17, 2010, 1:45 AM
Post #17 of 35
(3837 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
An NRG charger and a 3 person 4 season tent.
|
|
|
|
|
potreroed
Feb 17, 2010, 5:55 AM
Post #19 of 35
(3777 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
|
shimanilami wrote: A pair of USHBA's. And I need a new rope.
Ushba ascenders suck--get something else.
I'm buying a new hammer drill.
|
|
|
|
|
Blammo
Feb 17, 2010, 10:35 AM
Post #20 of 35
(3751 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2010
Posts: 2
|
Another Jensen pack from Rivendell Mountain works.
Any of you guys use one?
|
|
Attachments:
|
Giant Profile.JPG
(49.2 KB)
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Feb 17, 2010, 2:25 PM
Post #21 of 35
(3693 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
zeke_sf wrote: j_ung wrote: I'm tossing around the possibility of Totem Cams. They finally came out?!
Not sure. But, I'm also not sure I'm going to buy them, since I really don't need them, or any other gear for that matter.
Actually, you know what? My next gear purchase will almost certainly be two of these: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...1;page=unread#unread
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Feb 17, 2010, 2:40 PM
Post #22 of 35
(3674 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
What do you get a guy who has lost his gear-lust???
thanks in advance!
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Feb 17, 2010, 2:48 PM
Post #23 of 35
(3666 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
Next gear for me: probably the 3rd edition of the RRG guide book.....assuming it comes out this spring, otherwise I'm sure I'll buy something else before then.
|
|
|
|
|
zeke_sf
Feb 17, 2010, 3:22 PM
Post #24 of 35
(3654 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
|
j_ung wrote: zeke_sf wrote: j_ung wrote: I'm tossing around the possibility of Totem Cams. They finally came out?! Not sure. But, I'm also not sure I'm going to buy them, since I really don't need them, or any other gear for that matter. Actually, you know what? My next gear purchase will almost certainly be two of these: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...1;page=unread#unread
I was a googlin', and it sounded like Summer 2010. But then you run into all these other proposed release dates...
I need to get into buying more guidebooks. I spend too much on gear and too little on finding where to place it.
|
|
|
|
|
climbinginchico
Feb 17, 2010, 4:39 PM
Post #25 of 35
(3612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 3032
|
A long, skinny rope, and hopefully a bunch of new uber-light biners. Oh and a new harness to replace my old Cadillac.
|
|
|
|
|
jeepnphreak
Feb 17, 2010, 9:32 PM
Post #26 of 35
(709 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259
|
as Soon as I rob a bank or win the lottery I want a set of black diamond cobras, 1 adze and 1 hammer
(This post was edited by jeepnphreak on Feb 17, 2010, 9:32 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
photo_trev
Feb 17, 2010, 11:16 PM
Post #27 of 35
(686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2008
Posts: 15
|
Going to MEC tomorrow to get a new rope. and maybe a Reverso 3. Stoked.
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Feb 18, 2010, 6:52 PM
Post #28 of 35
(658 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
Arc'teryx R320, this time small.
Drawback of losing weight...
|
|
|
|
|
Rudmin
Feb 18, 2010, 7:21 PM
Post #29 of 35
(644 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2009
Posts: 606
|
j_ung wrote: I'm tossing around the possibility of Totem Cams.
I don't like the Totem Cam design much. All of the extra complexity of a Link Cam with none of the range. Way too many finicky parts. I am betting they will not be cheap.
The advantage of holding in larger downward flares is moot because nobody places cams at the current limit for holding downward flares (about 28 deg for most cams) because if it slides a tiny amount, the cams will probably fall out and it just plain looks scary.
And when you get up to the 40 deg that they claim is possible, geometry is not the limiting factor, but friction is. Each cam is pushing on the rock at 20 deg from perpendicular. If all rock could hold at 20 deg, we would see more regular cams with a 20 deg cam angle (which would also be able to hold a 40 deg flare)
The only real new advantage of their off-centre loading design is greater holding power, and I think that is kind of moot as well, because who really wants greater holding power? A cam either holds or it doesn't. If it holds, you have enough holding power. If it doesn't you don't. Most cams have enough and more doesn't help you. They should have ditched the logarithmic spiral and swapped holding power for range.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Feb 18, 2010, 9:24 PM
Post #30 of 35
(628 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
Rudmin wrote: I don't like the Totem Cam design much. All of the extra complexity of a Link Cam with none of the range. Way too many finicky parts. I am betting they will not be cheap.
They are not an extended range cam. They do cost extra.
In reply to: The advantage of holding in larger downward flares is moot because nobody places cams at the current limit for holding downward flares (about 28 deg for most cams) because if it slides a tiny amount, the cams will probably fall out and it just plain looks scary.
Nobody places cams at the limit of downward flare because it is the limit of downward flare. The Totem cams move the limit.
In reply to: And when you get up to the 40 deg that they claim is possible, geometry is not the limiting factor, but friction is. Each cam is pushing on the rock at 20 deg from perpendicular. If all rock could hold at 20 deg, we would see more regular cams with a 20 deg cam angle (which would also be able to hold a 40 deg flare)
There is a video on the Totem cams website of the things being thoroughly bounce tested in extreme flairs.
In reply to: The only real new advantage of their off-centre loading design is greater holding power, and I think that is kind of moot as well, because who really wants greater holding power? A cam either holds or it doesn't. If it holds, you have enough holding power. If it doesn't you don't. Most cams have enough and more doesn't help you. They should have ditched the logarithmic spiral and swapped holding power for range.
The greater holding power means they will hold in more marginal placements.
|
|
|
|
|
Rudmin
Feb 18, 2010, 9:42 PM
Post #31 of 35
(620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2009
Posts: 606
|
What kind of marginal placement are you considering here?
The only situation where more holding power is better is if the rock is slippery enough that a normal cam will slide.
If it is marginal as in soft rock, or behind a flake, then that extra holding power is a bad thing.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Feb 18, 2010, 9:45 PM
Post #32 of 35
(617 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
Rudmin wrote: What kind of marginal placement are you considering here? The only situation where more holding power is better is if the rock is slippery enough that a normal cam will slide. If it is marginal as in soft rock, or behind a flake, then that extra holding power is a bad thing.
I mean flared, awkward, uneven, etc, etc.
|
|
|
|
|
phang_nga
Feb 20, 2010, 2:29 AM
Post #33 of 35
(578 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 2, 2006
Posts: 326
|
Definitely getting a few of the smallest ball nuts for the many tiny flared cracks in the limestone here in southern Thailand.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Feb 20, 2010, 3:02 PM
Post #34 of 35
(553 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
Rudmin wrote: j_ung wrote: I'm tossing around the possibility of Totem Cams. I don't like the Totem Cam design much. All of the extra complexity of a Link Cam with none of the range. Way too many finicky parts. I am betting they will not be cheap. The advantage of holding in larger downward flares is moot because nobody places cams at the current limit for holding downward flares (about 28 deg for most cams) because if it slides a tiny amount, the cams will probably fall out and it just plain looks scary. And when you get up to the 40 deg that they claim is possible, geometry is not the limiting factor, but friction is. Each cam is pushing on the rock at 20 deg from perpendicular. If all rock could hold at 20 deg, we would see more regular cams with a 20 deg cam angle (which would also be able to hold a 40 deg flare) The only real new advantage of their off-centre loading design is greater holding power, and I think that is kind of moot as well, because who really wants greater holding power? A cam either holds or it doesn't. If it holds, you have enough holding power. If it doesn't you don't. Most cams have enough and more doesn't help you. They should have ditched the logarithmic spiral and swapped holding power for range.
Have you watched the video? No offense, but I think it does a pretty decent job of debunking several of your points. Totem cams are a simpler design than most SLCDs (especially Link Cams), they're utterly flexible at the head (again thanks to the DLCD design), the dual cable allows for use of only two cams in a bottoming vertical placement, and the increased holding power is a huge plus for such spots, too. Individual articulation means that you'll almost never have an irregular placement in which one or more lobes are completely disengaged (DLCD, again). They also have an obscenely narrow head width, and might just end up being the go-to cam for pin scars. I have to say, on paper these things are f-ing rad. I've held them in my greasy hands, too, and was similarly impressed.
All that remains, IMO, is to hear first-hand accounts of them being used on rock.
|
|
|
|
|
chrisJoosse
Feb 21, 2010, 12:16 AM
Post #35 of 35
(526 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2009
Posts: 150
|
It's getting about time for a new rope. Somethin' 70m/bi-pattern. And those dragon cams sure look spiffy.
|
|
|
|
|
|
