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aethyr
Jul 12, 2011, 11:13 PM
Post #26 of 33
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Registered: Jun 27, 2011
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erisspirit wrote: aethyr wrote: erisspirit wrote: my finger and grip strength definitely is stronger now, and that just came with more climbing. I for the most part disagree with your comment about pull strength being stronger though. I can BARELY do 2 pullups, and in most cases that doesn't limit me. What limits me is bad body tension, sloppy footwork, bad positioning etc. On a roof I use way more core tension and footwork than pull strength. There is a reason most here are saying technique technique technique... I don't feel that my pulling strength is my limiting factor. 1st, if you've seen my other thread on gloves, its, uh, my weak, girly skin that gives out before anything. 2nd its my finger/grip strength. Even on solid holds, on roofs, my fingers weaken just from hanging upside down...that is if the skin on my fingers don't wuss out first. Damn it, all this talk is making me itch to get back to the climbing gym. you mentioned pull strength in this thread so I was responding. feel free to ignore what everyone is saying to you... it's your climbing not mine... sounds like you are totally convinced of what you are missing, so good for you! (btw - right now I have soft girly skin so I can't really give you that as an excuse  )
Ok, the fault is mine. I actually have specific problems in mind and I'm making generalizations and everyone is responding with generalizations in turn. And I'm trying to apply those generalizations to my specific problem and its not helping because everything is too vague.
So, let me start over. What is the proper technique to climbing roofs? What is the proper placement of my feet? What is the general principle I want to adhere to while on the roof to help alleviate fatigue? What is the proper way to reach for the next hold, again to minimize fatigue?
Am I the only person that ever had their skin raw and sore from climbing?!
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rnevius
Jul 12, 2011, 11:29 PM
Post #27 of 33
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Registered: Jan 1, 2011
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I'll bite again...You mention that you are "spent". This does not necessarily relate to grip strength at all. It sounds more like an endurance issue. You'll better your endurance by climbing longer, not necessarily harder (which relates back to climbing more V0's like I mentioned before). Do some traversing, down climbing, anything to keep yourself on the wall longer and not simply pulling harder. Do some core workouts if you feel like you need to supplement. The Self Coached Climber is a highly recommended book for people starting out. Watch a bunch of videos and pay attention to footwork and balance (weight shifting, turning, etc). There is no simple answer for climbing roofs, but generally it's going to consist of climbing with straight arms, toes on holds (not the side of your foot or ball of your foot), and turning your right hip into the wall when reaching with your right arm and left hip into the wall when reaching with your left arm. Of course things are always different and you may be required to use a heel hook, edge of your foot, or even toe hook...it goes on and on and on.
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erisspirit
Jul 12, 2011, 11:35 PM
Post #28 of 33
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
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aethyr wrote: erisspirit wrote: aethyr wrote: erisspirit wrote: my finger and grip strength definitely is stronger now, and that just came with more climbing. I for the most part disagree with your comment about pull strength being stronger though. I can BARELY do 2 pullups, and in most cases that doesn't limit me. What limits me is bad body tension, sloppy footwork, bad positioning etc. On a roof I use way more core tension and footwork than pull strength. There is a reason most here are saying technique technique technique... I don't feel that my pulling strength is my limiting factor. 1st, if you've seen my other thread on gloves, its, uh, my weak, girly skin that gives out before anything. 2nd its my finger/grip strength. Even on solid holds, on roofs, my fingers weaken just from hanging upside down...that is if the skin on my fingers don't wuss out first. Damn it, all this talk is making me itch to get back to the climbing gym. you mentioned pull strength in this thread so I was responding. feel free to ignore what everyone is saying to you... it's your climbing not mine... sounds like you are totally convinced of what you are missing, so good for you! (btw - right now I have soft girly skin so I can't really give you that as an excuse ) Ok, the fault is mine. I actually have specific problems in mind and I'm making generalizations and everyone is responding with generalizations in turn. And I'm trying to apply those generalizations to my specific problem and its not helping because everything is too vague. So, let me start over. What is the proper technique to climbing roofs? What is the proper placement of my feet? What is the general principle I want to adhere to while on the roof to help alleviate fatigue? What is the proper way to reach for the next hold, again to minimize fatigue? Am I the only person that ever had their skin raw and sore from climbing?!
lol no skin does get raw... it's just not THE reason you are having trouble
I can tell you what I do, but realize people are different. I climb differently than most my male partners. My last big bouldering trip 5 different people climbed the same route 5 different ways.
on a roof I keep my arms straight. I keep my abs tight, hips up and find good feet (usually a bit spread apart, but really whatever gives an a solid feeling). I rely on the feet a lot. when going for a hold, it depends on where it is. I figure my feet out first, then often turn a hip to the wall (rolling toward the straight arm that stays put) and reach with the other.
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jomagam
Jul 12, 2011, 11:51 PM
Post #29 of 33
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Registered: Nov 10, 2008
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In reply to: What is the proper technique to climbing roofs?
I try to keep straight arms so that the biceps don't tire. For feet use anything that you can transfer weight unto. Either a big hold that you can push down on, or something you can have friction against and thus lessen the load on your arms.
Roofs are hard, so be patient.
In reply to: Am I the only person that ever had their skin raw and sore from climbing?!
Nope.
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dbogardus
Jul 13, 2011, 12:16 AM
Post #30 of 33
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Registered: Aug 27, 2009
Posts: 148
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aethyr wrote: Am I the only person that ever had their skin raw and sore from climbing?!
For the first six months of my climbing I got a flapper every time I went to the gym.
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herites
Jul 13, 2011, 8:29 AM
Post #31 of 33
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Registered: Apr 10, 2011
Posts: 210
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I now see your problem. Your problem will be solved with a La Sportiva Solution shoe, a dedicated climbing pants (more expensive=better fabric=better climbing) and some campus and system board training. You may need to go to a real gym doing chest and shoulder exercises, taking protein supplements as needed. Also, bicycle, because big and strong muscles combined with cardio and campus/systemboard training will get you the result you desire. edit: Also, I forgot fingerboard and bachar ladder from the list of specialized climbing training methods.
(This post was edited by herites on Jul 13, 2011, 8:47 AM)
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rnevius
Jul 13, 2011, 5:28 PM
Post #32 of 33
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Registered: Jan 1, 2011
Posts: 58
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The best possible thing you could do is ignore herites's post above.
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aethyr
Jul 13, 2011, 5:56 PM
Post #33 of 33
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Registered: Jun 27, 2011
Posts: 26
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herites wrote: I now see your problem. Your problem will be solved with a La Sportiva Solution shoe, a dedicated climbing pants (more expensive=better fabric=better climbing) and some campus and system board training. You may need to go to a real gym doing chest and shoulder exercises, taking protein supplements as needed. Also, bicycle, because big and strong muscles combined with cardio and campus/systemboard training will get you the result you desire. edit: Also, I forgot fingerboard and bachar ladder from the list of specialized climbing training methods.
[buzzlight year voice]You're...mocking me, aren't you?[/buzzlight year voice]
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