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cruzinsouthoc
Mar 30, 2003, 6:48 PM
Post #26 of 72
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Registered: Dec 15, 2001
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Well...I got these a 1 1/2 months ago and I'm very happy. I wear a 9 and bought an 8 1/2 - almost returned then cuz the left was too tight. Glad I didn't, I only needed a tiny bit of stretch (which is all you'll get out of them) and now they're perfect. The rubber is very sticky...I was staying at my parent's the weekend I bought'em and walked around on their hardwood floor and heard them sticking to the floor as I walked around. They edge and front point very well and the rubber does stick very well... I've used them in the gym and at J-Tree and am very happy...I got'em small so I only wear them when I climb and take'em right off. But I love how I can stand confidently on small nubs - moreso than my 5.10 Spires.
The guy at the shop told me he went to a mountain sports expo in Colorado where they did a side by side of Mad Rubber vs. Stealth...they got a sole of each and placed them on a sheet of granite then tilted it up and the stealth slid off just before it was vertical and the Mad Rubber stayed on just beyond vertical...that's impressive. I think that's when he was convinced to carry the shoes in his shop.
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mother_sheep
Apr 1, 2003, 4:29 PM
Post #27 of 72
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
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I also want to add that the Sharks are not good crack shoes. They're too soft and were killing my feet more than normal. My street size is 8.5 - 9 (depends on the shoe). My Sharks are size 8. They are too small. An 8.5 might be better. If you buy the Sharks, get them in your street size.
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naitch
Apr 3, 2003, 3:01 PM
Post #28 of 72
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
Posts: 539
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Well, I'll update my Madrock review. I had to dump my Flashes, they just did not fit my foot. The toe box was too narrow, toe too pointed and the toe profile was too wedge shaped (side view) - they didn't allow my toes to curl back and scrunch up. This casued me extreme pain. I tried a larger size but the heel started slipping. I thought I had a fairly narrow foot but the shoe was just too narrow for my taste. Maybe I didn't break them in enough. I wore them around the house for probably 10-15 hours and they just did not change. I switched to an 5.10 Anasazi and the difference was night and day.
Now let me say that it's possible that if I had tried the Mugens, they may have fit more like the Anasazi since they are comparable. May have to try them next time. My son keeps raving about his M.R. Zips more and more each day. I think they (or the psychological effect them have) is helping him to push from 5.11 to 5.12
To MadRocks credit, they have stickier rubber, better construction, a heel fit to kill for and some nice innovations. However, to me, fit is everything. So, for the moment I'll stay in Anasazi land. I think it really depends upon the shape of each person's foot and how much pain they're willing to endure. All 5.10 shoes that I've tried (Mohave's, Lynx's) seem to have that magic fit for me. Other's I've talked to can't stand the Anasazi fit. My advice is give the MadRocks a go. If they fit well, you probably can't get a better shoe and the price is dynamite!
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mwbtle
Apr 21, 2003, 7:38 PM
Post #29 of 72
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Registered: Nov 22, 2002
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I finally received my mad rock hookers. They were half a size bigger than I ordered...but thats a good thing, because they are almost too small. They're a size 4.5, and I usually wear a 3.5 US mens.
They are very narrow, but I can wear them for about and hour and a half with minimal discomfort. My main problems with fit are the narrow toe box, my pinky toe gets squished (as opposed to my big toe, which is the problem with my other shoes), and the heel edge, which bites my heel for the first couple minutes I wear them.
As far as performance goes, they are super sticky. I can edge on tiny polished gym edges that have seen many pairs of feet before me and are less edges than slopers by the time I get to them. Smearing is great. I haven't tried a heel hook yet, I've only been gym climbing in them, but getting them off after a session is no easy feat as the heel suctions your foot in. Basically I give them a thumbs up. I'm not sure how they'll wear yet, but I think other people have covered that in their reviews.
Bottom line, if you have small narrow feet, this is probably a good shoe to try. And even if your feet are tinier than the smallest size, you may want to try on a pair of 4s just to see, because they run very small.
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andy_lemon
Apr 21, 2003, 11:42 PM
Post #30 of 72
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Registered: Sep 7, 2001
Posts: 3335
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If you guys are so content on giving your opinion about this product then please go here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/shopping/index.php?c=91
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coldclimb
Apr 22, 2003, 12:15 AM
Post #31 of 72
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Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
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Hooker zips are great. I like them a lot. No problems at all so far, except that the zipper unzips sometimes, but only when I don't zip it all the way, so it's my fault.
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bouldersdothebodygood
Apr 29, 2003, 4:49 AM
Post #32 of 72
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Registered: Apr 28, 2003
Posts: 133
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at first when i saw the muggens i was like sweet heel cup those ridges must be killer for heel hooks i am sorry to say i do not know the heel is so hard to get my foot in and the shoe is so rigid that i couldn't keep my feet in them for long enough to get comfortable and dont say i was trying to small a size i was trying a half size bigger than my street shoe if u guys at mad rock could soften up that heel cup so i could slip into a tight shoe it would be most apreciated other than that i really want them. :oops:
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moabbeth
Apr 29, 2003, 5:12 AM
Post #33 of 72
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 1786
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I have a pair of the Mad Rock Phoenix shoes. They're not as useful as my wonderful La Sportiva Mythos, but for the price they're a good shoe. For some reason they tend to work better when the rock isn't cool but when it's a little warmer. Seemed like they don't stick as well on climbs in the shade or in the mornings before the rock warms up. But after the rock warms up a little, they're great. I've been using them at places like Pt. Dume or Echo Cliffs, places where I want to climb well (sport leading) but not necessarily anything that is super challenging (Josh or Tahquitz). But I gotta give MR Phoenix props for comfort, I find them really comfy unless the rock gets hot...then you totally feel it through the rubber unlike with the LS Mythos.
When I tried Illlusion Dweller out in Josh in late February, I had my Mad Rocks on and the first 20 ft was giving me trouble. No joke, I had my partner lower me back down and switched to my Mythos and it made a huge difference, made it up with a lot less trouble. But it was chilly that day and the route was in the shade. At least that seems to be the pattern with my MR's. Just my humble opinion.
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switch
Feb 23, 2004, 8:42 PM
Post #34 of 72
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Registered: Feb 15, 2004
Posts: 35
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Good Info...
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misfit4lf
Feb 23, 2004, 8:53 PM
Post #35 of 72
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Posts: 59
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My wife and I both bought a pair of the flashes. Within three days the shoes tore on the fabric above the toe. Madrock replaced them with no hassle and although the shoes are the same size as the ones we sent back neither of us can fit into the shoes.
I would not recommend them at all. They aren't built well and the sizes vary so I can't order the same size of the same shoe model later on and expect it to fit.
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iamthewallress
Feb 23, 2004, 9:10 PM
Post #36 of 72
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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In reply to: When I tried Illlusion Dweller out in Josh in late February, I had my Mad Rocks on and the first 20 ft was giving me trouble. No joke, I had my partner lower me back down and switched to my Mythos and it made a huge difference, made it up with a lot less trouble. But it was chilly that day and the route was in the shade. At least that seems to be the pattern with my MR's. Just my humble opinion.
Another thought on this...I use my Pheonixes for wide cracks and slabs since they have a thick-ish sole. You probably got a lot more of your Mythos in the crack on I.D.
For wide cracks, I like the extra width that the heel bumper on the pheonix give. I have found those shoes to be somewhat supportive and very comfy and really like the stickiness of the rubber. However, I've had THREE defective pairs and have had to return two of them after a wear or two to REI when either the rand spit open or the rand and the sole pulled apart. My current pair blew out too (between the rand and sole), but I've kept using them because I didn't have time to take them back. Since then the stitching from one side of the laces has completely (yes, that's 100%) come undone. These shoes have less than 100 pitches on them and are not resolable. At this rate, they may be comfy, but they are not the bargain that their price suggests.
Edit: When I contacted Mad Rock after the first delamination problem, the person who contacted me assured me that they had never had such a problem, could hardly imagine such a problem, and offered to "look at them" if I sent them to him. I didn't really care to spend my money so that he could research his projects short falls, so I never sent him my shoes. REI, however, gave me my money back and said that they had had other similar complaints.
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fredrogers
Feb 23, 2004, 9:57 PM
Post #37 of 72
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Registered: Aug 20, 2003
Posts: 288
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First off, I think most of these reviews are terrible. People writing about how they love their Mad Rock shoes 5 days after owning them. How can you judge the product with so little experience with them?
I've had 2 pair of Mugens. They fall apart very easily due to the extremly soft rubber. The first pair lasted 3 or 4 weeks, second pair lasted about 6 weeks. I'm pretty hard on shoes but this is about half as long as my 5.10 shoes last (BTW, I consider 5.10's durability to be pretty atrocious as well but Mad Rock makes 5.10 look good in this category).
BUT the low price sort of evens things out. They climb fine, similar to a soft pair of 5.10 Anasazi velcroes. I think the dual-density rubber sole provides very little advantage and is prone to tearing right off the sole. I've had rubber "flappers" ripped on both pairs of shoes.
I think the Mad Rock line is great for beginners who are unsure about how often they'll go climbing. They may quit the sport well before these shoes wear out and not be out too much cash.
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curt
Feb 23, 2004, 10:26 PM
Post #38 of 72
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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In reply to: First off, I think most of these reviews are terrible. People writing about how they love their Mad Rock shoes 5 days after owning them. How can you judge the product with so little experience with them? I've had 2 pair of Mugens. They fall apart very easily due to the extremly soft rubber. The first pair lasted 3 or 4 weeks, second pair lasted about 6 weeks. I'm pretty hard on shoes but this is about half as long as my 5.10 shoes last (BTW, I consider 5.10's durability to be pretty atrocious as well but Mad Rock makes 5.10 look good in this category). BUT the low price sort of evens things out. They climb fine, similar to a soft pair of 5.10 Anasazi velcroes. I think the dual-density rubber sole provides very little advantage and is prone to tearing right off the sole. I've had rubber "flappers" ripped on both pairs of shoes. I think the Mad Rock line is great for beginners who are unsure about how often they'll go climbing. They may quit the sport well before these shoes wear out and not be out too much cash.
Fair enough--I'll update my Phoenix review. I am now on my third pair of Phoenix shoes. Each pair seems to last me about 6 months of regular climbing and bouldering on sharp rock like Joshua Tree Monzonite and Arizona Dacite. The are very comfortable and I will sometimes not take them off during a 3-4 hour bouldering session. When they do wear out, I have replaced them, rather than resoling them because the uppers are pretty shot by the time the rubber wears down. For the price of the Phoenix shoes--I don't mind doing that.
I think if you are wearing a pair of Mad Rock shoes out in a few weeks, the problem may not be with the shoe--although I will admit they aren't the highest quality shoe on the market. BTW, most people who I have heard complain about Mad Rock shoes have the "dual density" soles, which the Phoenix do not have. Maybe that's also part of the reason I have had better luck.
Curt
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climbhigh2005
Feb 23, 2004, 10:49 PM
Post #39 of 72
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Registered: Jun 14, 2003
Posts: 1500
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My 1st pair of climbing shoes were madrock, and although I have other pairs, I always end up wearing the madrock... they are the most confortable shoes I have.. good for smearing too!
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andy_reagan
Feb 23, 2004, 11:11 PM
Post #40 of 72
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Registered: Jan 12, 2004
Posts: 1075
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I have the mad rock flashes. They have been great shoes. Although I have tried on a pair of similar sized anasazi's and I have to say I like those better. :wink:
Great rubber, although it seems to wear A LOT faster than my 5.10 moc's.
In reply to: My other quibbles come down to design- the velcro straps were a bit long, but the decorative rubber logo patches near the ends kept me from being able to trim the straps without mutilating them. The stitching around the heel cup also gave me the itchies. Nonetheless, the Mugens represent an outstanding value, and could easily garner the same "cult following" as the Anasazis.
Here's some advice for the tags on the velcro straps. Cut them off. Sawing under them with a sharp knife will cut the thread holding them on. Then its a simple task of picking the thread out from the webbing. The thread is NOT structural, so you won't delaminate the strap at all by doing this. I cut off all little logos on the straps and then cut the one off on the heel puller thingy. It's nice, now they dont look quite as shitty and its a few less grams :wink:
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iamthewallress
Feb 24, 2004, 12:07 AM
Post #41 of 72
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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In reply to: I think if you are wearing a pair of Mad Rock shoes out in a few weeks, the problem may not be with the shoe--although I will admit they aren't the highest quality shoe on the market. BTW, most people who I have heard complain about Mad Rock shoes have the "dual density" soles, which the Phoenix do not have. Maybe that's also part of the reason I have had better luck.
Curt, please see my reply. Although I'm sure that my technique leaves a lot to be desired and my evil bunions are hard on shoe leather, I've had Pheonix rands (not the dual density soles) rupture or delaminate straight out of the box.
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curt
Feb 24, 2004, 3:24 AM
Post #42 of 72
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: I think if you are wearing a pair of Mad Rock shoes out in a few weeks, the problem may not be with the shoe--although I will admit they aren't the highest quality shoe on the market. BTW, most people who I have heard complain about Mad Rock shoes have the "dual density" soles, which the Phoenix do not have. Maybe that's also part of the reason I have had better luck. Curt, please see my reply. Although I'm sure that my technique leaves a lot to be desired and my evil bunions are hard on shoe leather, I've had Pheonix rands (not the dual density soles) rupture or delaminate straight out of the box.
I also had one pair of Phoenix shoes that split along one of the rows of stitching down near the toe--on the second boulder problem I wore them on. I exchanged them for another pair. No doubt (as I admitted above) they are not made like Scarpa shoes. Still, I think the price is right and they perform really well--for me at least.
Curt
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iamthewallress
Feb 24, 2004, 3:39 AM
Post #43 of 72
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In reply to: Still, I think the price is right and they perform really well--for me at least.
I guess I'm bummed at the durability and customer service, but I do have to admit that for the purpose that I was using them, I haven't found anything that felt better on my foot.
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dangermonkey
Feb 25, 2004, 7:09 AM
Post #44 of 72
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Registered: Jan 15, 2003
Posts: 164
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I am a 5.10 shoe consumer. I fit the Anasazi last, it works great for me. I was intrigued by the Mad Rock Flash and Mugen due to their similar fit. I was discouraged about the rubber. The injection moulded rubber "chunked" away as opposed to the "feathering" of extruded C4 Stealth rubber. I have three (new) pairs of 5.10 shoes that I use cosistently. I just picked up a pair of Mugens -a half size smaller than my bouldering shoe- to see how they wear... I like them... the rubber wear is acceptable and their performance is outstanding. Yes, a half size smaller than my Anasazi Vecros, and Southwests. Great shoes.
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overlord
Feb 25, 2004, 9:58 PM
Post #45 of 72
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
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i have flash. i really love their feel and sticky rubber and tight fit.
but i dont know how they wear jet because they were only outside two times because its winter now.
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sparky
Feb 26, 2004, 3:53 AM
Post #46 of 72
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Registered: May 31, 2002
Posts: 438
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I bought the Sharks, I think. Great shoes, I liked the soft and the hard rubber, also the heel was nice. What I didn't like---- the rubber wore out REAL fast. I won't get a second pair of Mad Rocks, but they would be an excellent first shoe, great price and I'm sure they'ed last other folks longer. :shock:
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climb_plastic
Feb 26, 2004, 7:16 PM
Post #47 of 72
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Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 706
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Because of the price they are an excellent first pair. No use spending over 100 on your first pair. My friend bought the anasazi. One month later guess what...too loose. He's not even climbing at a point where he would notice a difference in the type of shoes so why pay so much. Oh and I still like the flash now. They climb a lot like my anasazis but they're not as comfortable but they are cheaper.
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daggerx
Feb 27, 2004, 8:41 PM
Post #48 of 72
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Registered: Sep 16, 2001
Posts: 761
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I have been climbing in mad rock since they come out and I love them. I own 2 pair of mugens and a pair of hookers lace and just order a pair of the loco's for new boulding and sport shoes and a pair of the frenzys for trad and super long multi pitch stuff. The rubber is so sick. I have been climbing along time "11 years" and have tryed alot of shoes over the years and in my oppion mad rocks are the best brand hands down.
DAggerX
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litleclimberchick
Feb 27, 2004, 10:19 PM
Post #49 of 72
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Registered: Apr 13, 2003
Posts: 1254
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I just bought my first pair of Mad Rocks on Monday, Mugens. I had previously only purchased La Sportiva Shoes, but that's beside the point.
I tried my Mugens out for the first time yesterday and besides the fact that they are a little stiff still, I have to say I love them. The rubber is so sticky, they edge like crazy, and they heel hook like nothing else I've used.
Going climbing again today, and really looking forward to breaking them in some more.
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