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kitarra
Mar 30, 2004, 11:13 PM
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I began climbing in October, and my first shoes were Mugens.
Fit: I typically wear WIDE 7.5s (well, Women's 9s) for street shoes and my arches and instep are quite high. My 7.5 Mugens were painfully small for quite some time. Once I finally got them broken in and built up some callous on my heels, however, they were perfect. So perfect that I watched the rubber shred itself off with increasing distress, and when a monster hole sprouted during a week of climbing outside Moab, I just about cried.
Use: In the time since I got them at the beginning of November, I've been climbing on an indoors wall 1-2 times a week and every day for a week around Moab. These Mugens were the only shoes I had, so they didn't get any rest.
Wear & Tear: I favor my left foot in everything I do, and rockclimbing is no exception. The rubber on my left shoe began pilling and flaking well before the right. I think it's a clear indication of the MadRubber's short lifespan that my left shoe is so much more eaten than the right. And well, I guess the hooker sole was nice while it lasted, vbut to be perfectly honest when it wore away, I didn't notice that it was gone, and all that wound up happening was the soft rubber became exposed and quickly wore away. Also, crack climbing busted open a slit right on the side of the right big toe.
http://gra.midco.net/...rra/mugens%20top.jpg
(Sidenote: as an artist perpetually obsessed with how things look, I love these babies on an aesthetic basis. The black and white combination is nicely striking. Important? No. But nice. :D )
http://gra.midco.net/...ens%20soles%2001.jpg
Note the difference in wear between left and right. My left foot is dominant, but not thatdominant...
http://gra.midco.net/...%20soles%20close.jpg
You can see that the "hooker sole" has completely worn down on the inner side of both shoes, and the demolition of the soft under rubber that followed. You can also see the area right beneath my big left toe where the rubber has worn away completely.
http://gra.midco.net/...s%20right%20tear.jpg
That's the slit/tear that crack climbing seems to be at least slightly responsible for.
I'm about to send them in to be resoled with C4 and let's hope that lasts better. In the meantime, I went crazy and got a pair of Locos.....
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hardmanknott
Mar 30, 2004, 11:18 PM
Post #52 of 72
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Registered: Jan 15, 2003
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Great review. Let us know how you like the Loco's.
Hardman Knott
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kitarra
Mar 30, 2004, 11:48 PM
Post #53 of 72
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Locos
I feel ridiculous posting any reactions to these yet, since I've had them for an entire week, but Hardmanknott asked. ^_^
The first thing I noticed was their sleek cyborg look. Operating on the same philosophy as Madrock's Hooker shoes - more rubber is better - the Locos approach the subject with the knowledge that feet need air to live. My friend Henry was with me in Moab with Hooker laces, and he mentioned that it felt like his feet were roasting alive (all-encompassing black rubber in direct sunlight = toe roast). To prevent this, the Locos feature a sticky surface over the majority of the shoe, but the tops are aerated with little oval holes. Having only had the opportunity to climb on an inferior indoors wall so far, I couldn't tell you how that aspect of the shoes performs just yet.
The next thing I noticed was how good they felt. The foam-padded x-static fiber that they're lined with (employing actual fibers of silver to act antimicrobially, theoretically preventing foot funk - I'll let you know how/if that works in a few months) is like sex for your feet. Wow. However, I'm a bit frustrated at how long the velcro closures are. They're made of an odd material, too, so I'm nervous to cut them to size.
Once I started climbing in them, the next thing that I noticed was how impossible their aggressive, downturned shape makes smearing. Forget about friction climbing in these puppies - save them for some wicked edging and overhangs. Once my Mugens are back and I've gotten these broken in, I have a hunch I'll go back to the Mugens for all-purpose climbing and save the Locos for bouldering and overhangs.
Hope that helps, and I'll keep you all informed on how these hold up over time.
http://gra.midco.net/...ra/locos%20small.jpg
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hardmanknott
Mar 31, 2004, 12:04 AM
Post #54 of 72
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Those look sensational on you!
You must be the envy of the climbing gym.
I am considering getting a pair strictly for steep, overhanging terrain.
I am currently using the old Five-Ten Rock Socks. (which rule)
How is the sensitivity? How flexible are they compared with the Mugens?
Hardman Knott
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elstifster
Mar 31, 2004, 1:39 AM
Post #55 of 72
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Registered: Mar 15, 2004
Posts: 21
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Mad Rock Flash:
I got a pair of Mad Rock flashes about a month ago. I have been bouldering in them at Horsepens 40 once and in the gym a few times, I have also taken them to a local spot, the Coosa Slabs, and been bouldering. I must say that this is my first pair of climbing shoes, but I had worn Sportivas before, and that the Mad Rocks are way better. I love the way that they fit, they are just right on my foot. I tend to have a narrow foot and all shoes I tried were either too wide slightly or didn't feel right, the Mad Rocks were right on. I also dig the heel cup. It hooks great, it takes a little getting used to, but once you do, it rocks. You also can't beat the deal, $70, hell, anyone can just grab a pair to have as backups. I have a friend that has some Mocs and flashes, and she uses the flashes more than the mocs. So go figure.
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kitarra
Mar 31, 2004, 6:15 AM
Post #56 of 72
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Hardman -
The sensitivity is surprisingly high, considering how padded they are. Not having anything but the Mugens to compare them to yet, I'm afraid I'm of little help here, but I'd wager that they actually yield more sensitivity than the Mugs. Flexibility is DEFINITELY increased. The little gill-things above the big toes really do help, but I'm a little paranoid about how they'll hold up. We'll see.
Something I didn't mention earlier is that a 7.5 in the Loco is looser than a 7.5 in the Mugen, so be warned.
Edit: The Locos are not, in fact, sized looser - the padding just keeps you from feeling the pain...at first.
Do they still make the rock socks? I'm havin' trouble finding them.
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metolius21
Apr 2, 2004, 3:48 AM
Post #57 of 72
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Registered: Mar 14, 2004
Posts: 65
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hgjftjzedhzdgj.
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alvchen
Apr 2, 2004, 4:31 AM
Post #58 of 72
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Registered: Jan 15, 2002
Posts: 616
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If I remember correctly, the Mad Rock Rep said they made those straps with that material, so you can cut them. It's the same material that's on the new Frenzy's.
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merock
Apr 2, 2004, 4:58 AM
Post #59 of 72
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Registered: Dec 27, 2003
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I don't want to spray to much, but I bought a pair of Flashes and hated them... the rubber sucked, I never felt like I was sticking to anything no matter what, my feet skated a few times trying to send projects, very frustrating.... they did however last for a decent amount of time. So I was thinking about going back to the "other" shoes (old faithfuls) and I tried on a pair of my friends brand new Mugens fresh out of the box.... needless to say I LOVE these things. I can edge with confidence again and my feet stick soooo good. My theory in how a shoe should work is to set it and forget it..... just like that rotisserie... Good shoe, love the fit, love the heel blah blah blah.....
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jefferson
Apr 2, 2004, 6:10 AM
Post #60 of 72
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Registered: Dec 13, 2003
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I have been climbing in the Flashes for about 6 months and I think they are great. No one who I have talked has noticed any increase in rubber wear at all...and ohhhhhh they heel hook like butter baby!
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hongkongstuey
Apr 2, 2004, 6:36 AM
Post #61 of 72
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not sure what the current state of play is about Madrock rubber - living in Hong Kong i'm guessing our stock is a little old but..
pair 1 of Mugens - 6 trips out bouldering, hole formed where the sole and rand join on left boot :cry: boots relegated to wall use where after about 2 months the rubbers wearing a little thin but other than that not too bad
pair 2 of Mugens (to replace relegated pair 1) - 2 trips out (mostly working a problem that involves some substantial toe / side of foot hooking on an arete) and the upper suedey material wore through (even though i'd noticed some wear after the first session and finger taped over the spot in question) - patch now sowed over the hole using material from an older (and more durable) set of boots
conclusion: the rubbers sift and the uppers are too supple / weak for anything 'meaty' - shame, because performance wise i found them an outstanding boot but, even at the low prices, less than a months use before starting to come apart ain't no use to anyone..
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xprompt
Apr 2, 2004, 7:11 PM
Post #62 of 72
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Registered: Mar 10, 2004
Posts: 159
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im looking to buy my first pair of shoes
Madrock seems to be the choice but i have a ?
Should i purchace the Flash or the Phoenix?
i want to stay in that price range. I wear a size 8 . Should i get a size a climbing shou as well or a 7.5
thanks for your help
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rrrADAM
Apr 2, 2004, 7:29 PM
Post #63 of 72
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I know quite a few who have bought or were comped a pair, and very few will get another pair. They work well while they last, but they just don't hold up to continued rigorous climbing that well from what I've seen.
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curt
Apr 2, 2004, 8:05 PM
Post #64 of 72
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In reply to: I know quite a few who have bought or were comped a pair, and very few will get another pair. They work well while they last, but they just don't hold up to continued rigorous climbing that well from what I've seen.
I'm on my third pair of Mad Rock Phoenix shoes. A pair of these lasts me about 6 months of weekend climbing/bouldering. After that, the rubber is worn out and the uppers are pretty shot--so, I do not resole them. They perform really well though and best of all, they are really comfortable for me. I can leave them on all day if I choose to.
Curt
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drunkencabanaboy
Apr 5, 2004, 1:07 AM
Post #65 of 72
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Many people have talked about how badly/quickly mad rock shoes tend to wear. Well, here is a picture of my Zips. I have had them since last christmas. It is a year and 4 months later. I was not able to climb for about 8 months of that time due to a motorcycle accident. so lets see - that's about 8 months of climbing ~3 times a week in the gym, and about once or twice a month outside (taking into account winter, etc) The right foot shoe has a pinky sized hole kinda right above where my right toe edges on holds, and the left foot show has a hole where the "hard" and "soft" rubbers come together about where my little toe is. Overall I have loved my Zips - thinking about getting another pair - but even tho they may only be $90 - they are not a cheap shoe if they only last 8 months.
I have just bought a pair of Locos online. I will post a review of those once i have climbed in them for a few weeks.
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cracklover
Apr 20, 2004, 1:46 PM
Post #66 of 72
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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Bought a pair of the Mad Rock Phoenix.
Went crack climbing, and full on foot jams reduced the leather on the uppers to swiss cheese within a week of climbing. The leather is extremely poor quality. I was quite happy with the rubber (as everyone else has said) but I would strongly recommend against buying the Phoenix if you ever expect to jam with them.
GO
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skateman
Apr 20, 2004, 2:18 PM
Post #67 of 72
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Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 186
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Hi Folks,
I'm currently on my second pair of Flash's! The 1st pair was on thier last legs after 6months
of climbing 3 days per week (indoors & outdoors). I had a set of Boreal Diablo's previously.
The Flash's far outperformed the Boreals in both smearing and edgeing. The Boreals
also delaminated after 5 months.
I sized the Madrock's same as my street shoe. After 4 months they stretched to the point
where the fit was a little looser than I cared for. When I purchased the second pair of
Flash's, I went a 1/2 size smaller to account for the stretch. However, after a month these
shoes feel larger than my previous pair.
Aside from the sizing issue mentioned above, I would highly recommend these shoes.
(although, I may be in the market for a pair of Mythos now that the price has come down
a bit)
Climb hard! Climb often!
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lagarita
May 13, 2005, 4:16 AM
Post #68 of 72
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Registered: Dec 23, 2004
Posts: 356
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As my first pair of climbing shoes I went with the mad rock phoenix. I chose them because thats what the gym I went to rented. I found that they fit my abnormally narrow and long feet. When I actually bought them they helped me improved my technique dramatically, especially smearing. The fins on the heels make for great heel hooks on overhangs. They break in fairly quickly, I'd say after 2 months of use in the gym. I climb about twice a week. After about 7 months of use they're still holding up. The other selling point was that the soles can be replaced either by the at home version or by sending them away. They got my vote for the beginer who doesn't want to rent shoes, but doesn't want to break the bank. :righton:
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theescalador
May 13, 2005, 3:44 PM
Post #69 of 72
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Registered: May 11, 2005
Posts: 2
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Flash!
I have my shoes for about 5 months now, climbing twice a week indoor and going outdoor once a week.
PRO: Great price, cool color, excellent for edging, great for hookheal, high resistant leather and sole.
CONS: Do not strecht that much (as said by manufacturers and peers.. they still hurt), unconfortable to wear and the big down not good for smearing at all.
Summary, I would try another brand before buying a new pair el FLASH...
Have a nice climb
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rock_101
May 14, 2005, 11:00 PM
Post #70 of 72
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Registered: May 8, 2005
Posts: 55
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Got Mad Roc Pheonix Today to try some Mad Rock's Out.
Only climbed with them for about 3 hours. though my first thought was that they were great. Comfotrable, amazing rubber and overall greatness.
I willl edit my post when I use them more.
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lil_monkey
Dec 31, 2005, 7:03 PM
Post #71 of 72
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Registered: Dec 31, 2005
Posts: 57
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edit
peace
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namoclimber
Jan 1, 2006, 12:06 AM
Post #72 of 72
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Registered: Dec 18, 2005
Posts: 118
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Had a pair of mad rock loco's brand new super sticky and good for steeps.
the only problem being that there so soft the wear out faster. and my first trip to squamish mainly granite bouldering i rip a chunk off the heal, heal hooking.
shoes failing before you do kinda sucks wont buy them again.
they are sticky though?
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