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deadpointman
Jun 16, 2003, 5:26 AM
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I'm looking to get a stick clip device so I can work hard routes without risking bad falls (many of the routes I'd like to work don't have good top-rope access). Anyway, I think it would be really cool to have a stick clip that can not only put up quickdraws, but REMOVE them as well. I've seen one model (by Pika Mtn.) that claims to be able to do this, but it's pretty expensive. Are there cheaper alternatives? Input, please. Thanks. 8)
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jughead
Jun 16, 2003, 11:03 AM
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yes i have a very cheap alternative, firstly what you do is you clip your biners onto your harness then climb up and clip in as you reach the bolt :o failing that get someone whos better than you to clip in then second the climb :twisted:
stick clips are soooooooo uncool :roll:
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dbrayack
Jun 16, 2003, 11:28 AM
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Don't listen to that dude, he's just a wanna be. Stick clipping your way up to get a TR is a great way to work on Routes harder than your ability.
Epic sells a stick clip device (12 bucks), but you can just use a stick, hair ties and some climbing tape. Get the stick, wrap the hair tie around the tip of the stick and throw a loop of tape on "helps if you have a smaller biner". Get a small stick to prop the biner open.
Practice it on the ground as the second is not as stable, the most common thing is for the lil stick to get dislodged.
Also, consider bringing up some small gear, if you can, you may want to aid up alittle to get you closer.of course you will want to be clipped directly into the bolt so you're belayer can feed you slack. If this is not clear, email me and I will draw you some pictures and that.
"The best way to learn is to fail miserably".
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whichwayisup
Jun 16, 2003, 12:38 PM
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Get some Kong Frog's. It is a quickdraw with a biner on one end and a mechanical head on the other. When it come in contact with the bolt, it locks around it. It has little "wings" that stick out the side so you can unclip it.
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mesomorf
Jun 16, 2003, 1:03 PM
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Just tape the gates open when you're ready to clean.
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caughtinside
Jun 17, 2003, 9:54 PM
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You don't need one. If you stick clip your way up the entire route and set up a TR, then if you need to clean the route, you tram up the end of the rope the belayer is holding, having them take tight as you go, then clean the route as usual when you reach the anchors.
Just pull up on the other rope!
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tenn_dawg
Jun 17, 2003, 9:57 PM
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Yeah, I agree, stick clip aiding the entire route is a penalty for starting something you should have known is way over your head.
Travis
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nobody
Jun 17, 2003, 11:09 PM
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a simple question, and all you get is this crap!
anyhow, this isn't a draw-removing stick clip, but it is an easy way to escape a sport route leaving no gear behind:
1. put a runner right through the bolt hanger and tie one end of the rope to the side of the runner with the stitching.
2. from this knot, lower a loop of rope to the ground and back up to you.
3. run the free end of the rope through the sewn-side of the runner, then through the other side, and down to the ground.
4. the rope should be making an N shape, with the top-right of the N your starting point (tied to the runner), the bottom-right touching the ground, the top-left passing through both ends of the runner, and the bottom-left touching the ground again.
5. rap down the two left strands
6. pull from the bottom-right of the N, and your runner will come down with the rope.
again, not what you were asking for, but the best alternative I know of.
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jughead
Jun 17, 2003, 11:11 PM
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THANKYOU A.stick clips look really shiite
B. shall we carry a ladder to get past the crux aswell?
C.if you can climb up to the damn clip why cant you clip in :?
D. how funny would it be if you stick clipped the route but couldn't finish it? " excuse me sir i got in way over my head and now i can't reach my clips at the top help me" "fuc£ off" "waaaah!!!" :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
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pancaketom
Jun 17, 2003, 11:22 PM
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In Thailand people were using a long bamboo stick with a notch on the end to put up and take down draws (short very steep routes only). use a little stick to hold the gate open when putting the draws up, then push the top biner flat against the rock and get the gate into the notch in the stick and twist it off. This is easier said than done often, and as I said, works best for very steep routes.
I made a stick clip out of a coat hanger that I bent with pliers 'til it could hold a biner with the gate open. The best thing about it is you can tweak it to match the biner and the angle of the bolt. I fasten the contraption to a tent pole or stick with velcro and rubber bands. I haven't gotten it to unclip yet though.
don't listen to the cool police, use a stick clip and save your ankles.
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pelliott
Jun 17, 2003, 11:25 PM
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The reason you need to unclip the draw with a stick clip is if you can't make it to the first clip. In that case, you need to be able to clip the gate with your stick clip and pry it open.
I have made a stick clip that can do this with a battery alligator clip from an auto part store bolted to the end of a golf ball retriever with the ball holder cut off of course. (I quit golfing for climbing) I then put two eye bolts in the handles of the alligator clip, tie some accessory cord to one eye bolt and then thread it through the other eye bolt. You can then open and close the clip by pulling on the accessory cord.
To remove the first draw after the unsuccessful attempt, just grab the gate of the biner with the clip and pull it open.
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one900johnnyk
Jun 18, 2003, 5:06 AM
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does anyone else find it slightly amusing to see sport climbers argue ethics? flame me if you will but i got a chortle or two out of a few mental images some of these posts gave me..
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tenn_dawg
Jun 18, 2003, 5:21 AM
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Yeah.
Sport climbing ethics is an oxymoron. Makes for good discussion though. I just love the term "Sport Weenie".
Reminds me kind of "Beanie Weenies".
And for that matter, has anyone ever had those hot dogs with the cheese already put in? How do they get it in there?
I'm hungry.
Travis
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chitlinsconcarne
Jun 18, 2003, 7:13 AM
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I got pretty good at getting draws off with just my usual homemade clipstick with a spring clamp on the end. I just prop the clamp open with a twig and then grab the back of the biner. With just the right twist you can push the gate open on the hanger and rotate the biner out. Handy trick if everbody runs out of gas with the draws still up.
I found one of those 20' plus sticks like Pika uses for less than 40$ (if I remember right) at a Home Depot or somewhere like that.
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redpoint73
Jun 18, 2003, 1:07 PM
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In reply to: a simple question, and all you get is this crap! anyhow, this isn't a draw-removing stick clip, but it is an easy way to escape a sport route leaving no gear behind:
Until I read the gold-ball retriver idea, propping the gate open is about as good idea as any I have heard/seen. I don't think that idea is crap (although sketchy if you are thinking of lowering from a biner with a taped/propped gate). Ironic that you call other people's responses crap, since your "Texas Rope Trick" has almost nothing to do with the original question.
In reply to: does anyone else find it slightly amusing to see sport climbers argue ethics?
No, but I find it slightly annoying how people on this forum are so quick to point out how climbers "argue" with each other. I've only read a couple posts on this thread that fall into the category of disagreeing. It is possible to disagree with someone, state your own opinion, and not argue. Anyway, the "disagreeing" posts seemed pretty light-hearted and were stated jokingly, not in a negative tone. I think you're just jumping the gun because you are so eager to point out how "inferior" you think sport climbers are.
In reply to: Sport climbing ethics is an oxymoron.
If you want to contribute to an online forum, how about not telling the same cliched joke that has been used 750 million times before you? Times have changed. Some climbers may debate this, but many will agree that the notion that sport climbing is unethical in this day and age is an outdated one.
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one900johnnyk
Jun 18, 2003, 3:32 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: does anyone else find it slightly amusing to see sport climbers argue ethics? No, but I find it slightly annoying how people on this forum are so quick to point out how climbers "argue" with each other. I've only read a couple posts on this thread that fall into the category of disagreeing. It is possible to disagree with someone, state your own opinion, and not argue. Anyway, the "disagreeing" posts seemed pretty light-hearted and were stated jokingly, not in a negative tone. I think you're just jumping the gun because you are so eager to point out how "inferior" you think sport climbers are.
no sir, not "inferior" at all... i climb sport as well. i just refrain from "debating" (if you prefer) matters of ethics w/them. that post was not meant to illicit a response, i'm sorry you wasted your time...
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jt512
Jun 19, 2003, 12:00 AM
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In reply to: The reason you need to unclip the draw with a stick clip is if you can't make it to the first clip.
Huh? How could you possibly not be able to make it to the first bolt if you've stick clipped it? You're on TR. Even if you can't pull the moves, you can always batman up or boink.
-Jay
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tenn_dawg
Jun 19, 2003, 12:18 AM
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Redpoint wrote:
In reply to: If you want to contribute to an online forum, how about not telling the same cliched joke that has been used 750 million times before you? Times have changed. Some climbers may debate this, but many will agree that the notion that sport climbing is unethical in this day and age is an outdated one.
Whew, sounds like someone is a little sensitive! For someone who advocates disagreeing, not arguing, in the same post, this is pretty inflamatory.
Oh, and did you bother to read the rest of my post? The part where I started talking about beenie weenies, and hot dogs with cheese?
Sounds really serious dosen't it? Don't let a little joke hurt your feelings.
And Chill out.
Travis
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chitlinsconcarne
Jun 19, 2003, 2:43 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: The reason you need to unclip the draw with a stick clip is if you can't make it to the first clip. Huh? How could you possibly not be able to make it to the first bolt if you've stick clipped it? You're on TR. Even if you can't pull the moves, you can always batman up or boink. -Jay
Not if you've already pulled the string. In that case you can use the stick to re-clip the rope or, if its overhanging enough, try the ever popular "shwing a loop through the biner trick". When I try that I usually just end up repeatedly smacking my nice, shiney biners against the cruel stone though...
For the terminally lazy like myself, its extra points if one can unclip the draw without leaving a reclining position. Using an extra long stick to clip various useless items to other climbers harnesses while they're on a route gains even more bonus points.
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jt512
Jun 19, 2003, 3:11 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: The reason you need to unclip the draw with a stick clip is if you can't make it to the first clip. Huh? How could you possibly not be able to make it to the first bolt if you've stick clipped it? You're on TR. Even if you can't pull the moves, you can always batman up or boink. -Jay Not if you've already pulled the string.
String? What string? You mean the rope?
In reply to: For the terminally lazy like myself, its extra points if one can unclip the draw without leaving a reclining position.
Sorry, but I still don't understand why you would ever need to unclip the first draw with a stick clip. Why would you stick clip the first draw, then pull your rope? I cannot envision a circumstance in which you would have to stick unclip a draw, unless for some weird reason you stick clipped the draw without putting the rope through it, and then decided you didn't want to do the route. And the answer to that is just not to do that.
-Jay
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tenn_dawg
Jun 19, 2003, 3:16 AM
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Jay,
If you stick clip the first bolt, then after attempting to climb, realize that you cannot climb past it. Your only choices are to 1.) Batman up to the draw, unclip it from the rock, then attempt to downclimb the moves you could not do in the first place, or 2.) Leave it as booty for another climber.
Travis
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jt512
Jun 19, 2003, 3:31 AM
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In reply to: Jay, If you stick clip the first bolt, then after attempting to climb, realize that you cannot climb past it. Your only choices are to 1.) Batman up to the draw, unclip it from the rock, then attempt to downclimb the moves you could not do in the first place, or 2.) Leave it as booty for another climber. Travis
No, those are not the only options.
Obviously your Option 1 is not an option at all, and option 2 is not an option that anyone I know would choose. Better options are these:
[*:402a1d2d9f]Find someone who can boulder up, get your draw, and boulder down.
[*:402a1d2d9f]Find someone who will lead the route and clean it for you.
[*:402a1d2d9f]Batman or boink up to the draw, and climb to the anchors, using aid and/or stick-clipping, if needed. Clean draws on descent.
[*:402a1d2d9f]Batman or boink up to the draw, anchor in, replace the draw with a bail biner, leaving just the bail biner.
[*:402a1d2d9f]Batman or boink up to the draw, anchor in, clean the draw, and rappel leaving no gear by using the Texas rope trick.
Note that Options 2 and 3 can be used to set up a top rope on a route you couldn't lead.
-Jay
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tenn_dawg
Jun 19, 2003, 3:47 AM
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In reply to: Sorry, but I still don't understand why you would ever need to unclip the first draw with a stick clip
You asked and I told you. I guess you already knew. You could also, skydive from an airplane, and snag it as you are parachuting by, or you could rent a crane. Oh, or you could yell at it really loud, until it unclips it's self because it's tired of listening to you.
Travis
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tenn_dawg
Jun 19, 2003, 3:53 AM
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Nevermind that last post, here, I thought of a one word answer for you.
Here is a reason you would want to un-stick-clip a quickdraw from the first bolt.
Convenience.
Options 1,2,3,4,and a5, of yours, and both of mine would require a good bit of effort. The un-stick-clip sounds like sport climbing to me!
Travis
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jt512
Jun 19, 2003, 3:56 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Sorry, but I still don't understand why you would ever need to unclip the first draw with a stick clip You asked and I told you. I guess you already knew. You could also, skydive from an airplane, and snag it as you are parachuting by, or you could rent a crane. Oh, or you could yell at it really loud, until it unclips it's self because it's tired of listening to you. Travis
I'm not sure what, if anything, your point is. Mine -- and I thought it was obvious -- is that you never have to stick unclip a bolt, since there are (practical) alternatives.
The way you get the first draw down if you can't get past it is the same way you get any other draw down that you can't get past. You can't very well stick unclip the second, third, or fourth bolt from the ground. You use one of the options I listed. You do the same for the first bolt. There is no point in inventing some specialized piece of gear specifically to unclip the first bolt.
-Jay
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tenn_dawg
Jun 19, 2003, 4:14 AM
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My point.
Travis
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chitlinsconcarne
Jun 19, 2003, 6:55 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: The reason you need to unclip the draw with a stick clip is if you can't make it to the first clip. Huh? How could you possibly not be able to make it to the first bolt if you've stick clipped it? You're on TR. Even if you can't pull the moves, you can always batman up or boink. -Jay Not if you've already pulled the string. String? What string? You mean the rope? In reply to: For the terminally lazy like myself, its extra points if one can unclip the draw without leaving a reclining position. Sorry, but I still don't understand why you would ever need to unclip the first draw with a stick clip. Why would you stick clip the first draw, then pull your rope? I cannot envision a circumstance in which you would have to stick unclip a draw, unless for some weird reason you stick clipped the draw without putting the rope through it, and then decided you didn't want to do the route. And the answer to that is just not to do that. -Jay
Some personal experiences with this(in one 24 hr. period, no less.):
Stick clipped the first bolt on a route with a first bolt made to be clipped just so. A few more bolts up and I be stuck cold on the crux, elvis is in the building and that day it just ain't gonna happen. Down fall back to the first bolt, lower, unstickamoclipadeedoodah and its off to the bar to blot out my ignominious performance with tasty scottish libations.
Next day..
With the trusty stick, first draw (and just maybe the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, etc.) goes up. "Hey you hungover sot", says the better half, " considering that you're putting your shoes on the wrong feets,I 'd say you got even less chance of getting up this today than yesterday. Lets go to the buffet instead." Foolishly I pay no heed and, of course, fail again. Repeat of previous days shenanigans. Except.. on the way out..
Hey, lookit that!
Some lazy goober left that nice, shiney leaver biner hanging right up there. Booty call! She's mine and I didn't even have to shoe up. All is right in the world once again..
Its all true I tell ya.
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jt512
Jun 19, 2003, 4:36 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Sorry, but I still don't understand why you would ever need to unclip the first draw with a stick clip. Why would you stick clip the first draw, then pull your rope? I cannot envision a circumstance in which you would have to stick unclip a draw, unless for some weird reason you stick clipped the draw without putting the rope through it, and then decided you didn't want to do the route. And the answer to that is just not to do that. -Jay Some personal experiences with this...: Stick clipped the first bolt on a route with a first bolt made to be clipped just so. A few more bolts up and I be stuck cold on the crux, elvis is in the building and that day it just ain't gonna happen. Down fall back to the first bolt, lower, unstickamoclipadeedoodah and its off to the bar to blot out my ignominious performance with tasty scottish libations.
Why would you down-fall the route to clean it when you could clean it on rappel from the high bolt? You don't even need to leave a biner if you know the Texas rope trick.
-Jay
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one900johnnyk
Jun 19, 2003, 5:19 PM
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what's the texas rope trick?
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jt512
Jun 19, 2003, 5:31 PM
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In reply to: what's the texas rope trick?
The diagram has gotten a bit messed up, apparently when the site upgraded to the new system, but it is described here: The Texas Rope Trick
-Jay
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chitlinsconcarne
Jun 19, 2003, 6:44 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Sorry, but I still don't understand why you would ever need to unclip the first draw with a stick clip. Why would you stick clip the first draw, then pull your rope? I cannot envision a circumstance in which you would have to stick unclip a draw, unless for some weird reason you stick clipped the draw without putting the rope through it, and then decided you didn't want to do the route. And the answer to that is just not to do that. -Jay Some personal experiences with this...: Stick clipped the first bolt on a route with a first bolt made to be clipped just so. A few more bolts up and I be stuck cold on the crux, elvis is in the building and that day it just ain't gonna happen. Down fall back to the first bolt, lower, unstickamoclipadeedoodah and its off to the bar to blot out my ignominious performance with tasty scottish libations. Why would you down-fall the route to clean it when you could clean it on rappel from the high bolt? You don't even need to leave a biner if you know the Texas rope trick. -Jay
Cuz its quick and dirty. Keeps the belayer busy (laughing at my pathetic attempts to downclimb just..one..more..inch to put off the inevitable plunge). I never carry any sewn slings on sprot climbs to do rope tricks with, their tendancy to swing around on my harness throws off my balance and detracts from the perfect profile of my buttocks.
I'll stick to tilting at windmills with my giant cliplance and leave the rope tricks to the texans.
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flash
Sep 13, 2003, 3:46 AM
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I have the PERFECT answer for your simple question:
Contact Trango.
They came out with a new stick clip (for $12 or something). It is brand new and will clip OR UNCLIP a rope / biner.
It's called the Squid.
Check it out.
I played with it at the OR Show in UT, and I will vouch for it.
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camhead
Sep 13, 2003, 6:10 AM
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this debate over the last few pages is hilarious.
nobody has yet mentioned that quite frequently, the harder the route, the steeper it is likely to be. on steep stuff, the last three or four draws are ALWAYS a pain to clean while being lowered.
by far the easiest alternative would be to unclip them from the ground with a nifty little stick clip device. yes, there are a myriad of other ways to clean a route, but as tenndawg said... CONVENIENCE!!!
word.
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deadpointman
Sep 13, 2003, 6:37 AM
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Thanks Flash, sounds like just the thing. I'll keep my eye out for it and probably buy one as soon as I can.
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organic
Sep 13, 2003, 9:24 AM
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Use two sticks one to hold the gate opne the other to remove the biner.
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biff
Aug 27, 2004, 9:09 PM
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Sorry to bring back such an old thread .. but here is a link to a product that I just reviewd.
It removes draws, and is cheaper than the other products that I have seen that make that claim.
http://www.rockclibming.com/gear/product.php?p=2656
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thipp
Sep 7, 2004, 5:03 AM
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Trango makes a stick clip called the Squid which works very well to remove draws and costs about $ 30.00. It attatches to any type of window washing pole.
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russell
Oct 3, 2004, 11:10 PM
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Rock climbing Tools makes one called Superclip. $21.95 with free shipping. Its listed in the gear section or goto rockclimbingtools.com to check it out. :wink:
Here is a quote by maculated from the Outdoor Recreation show:
Super Clip - RockClimbingTools.com
Aside from zealousness its proprietor had for his product, this is a pretty nifty contraption. I'm not a stick-clip owner (though I should be), but I've used all manner of products down to a stick with some tape on it. What sets this clip apart is its lack of breakable parts and the additional feature of being able to also remove biners from hangers.
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fiend
Oct 3, 2004, 11:36 PM
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Posts: 3669
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In reply to: I have the PERFECT answer for your simple question: Contact Trango. They came out with a new stick clip (for $12 or something). It is brand new and will clip OR UNCLIP a rope / biner. It's called the Squid. Check it out. I played with it at the OR Show in UT, and I will vouch for it.
http://www.mtntools.com/...lder/trangosquid.htm
There's pictures on that page which will show the squid. As far as stick clips go, it's pretty rad.
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dig_scott
Oct 3, 2004, 11:43 PM
Post #40 of 40
(4820 views)
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Registered: Aug 30, 2002
Posts: 303
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i didnt take the time to read a 3 page post.
the squid is a stick clip that removes clips and can clip the rope.
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