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b_fost
Dec 12, 2003, 8:51 PM
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do you put the rope in your mouth before clipping in order to get an extra loop of slack? i start doing that about halfway up a route, when the rope drag starts to affect (effect?) how much slack i can pull in each loop. just curious.
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mattdog
Dec 12, 2003, 8:56 PM
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In reply to: do you put the rope in your mouth before clipping in order to get an extra loop of slack? i start doing that about halfway up a route, when the rope drag starts to affect (effect?) how much slack i can pull in each loop. just curious.
Yep, but I have a really strong jaw. My wife tells me I use it all the time.
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outdoormikeg
Dec 12, 2003, 8:56 PM
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I have mixed feelings on this...the problem with pulling up too much slack is that if you come off while clipping you're looking at a further fall but if the gear (or bolt) is above your head you get a little section of top roping...especially at the crux.
I have started to try and put gear in at my waist so I don't have to pull the rope up...its right there. I've also started to lead on ice screws and you almost always put those in at your waist.
Just like everything else in this crazy sport everyone has their own way of doing things...
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mike_ok
Dec 12, 2003, 8:58 PM
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Didn't you say you've been to OKC Rocks? There's a climb there called "Dental Plan" because someone took a fall right before a clip, and had the rope in their mouth. When the rope went taught, out went the teeth.
I do it too when I have to, but try to stay away from it.
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scubasnyder
Dec 12, 2003, 9:02 PM
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The mouth the fifth hand for grabbing rope, i need it on sport route i must say. Dirty but better than falling
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b_fost
Dec 12, 2003, 9:13 PM
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In reply to: Didn't you say you've been to OKC Rocks? There's a climb there called "Dental Plan" because someone took a fall right before a clip, and had the rope in their mouth. When the rope went taught, out went the teeth. I do it too when I have to, but try to stay away from it.
I was there this summer... I didn't see a route with that name. when did that happen?
Also, I use a VERY loose grip (of my jaw) to avoid teeth being ripped out.
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mike_ok
Dec 12, 2003, 9:16 PM
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It happened several years ago... they redid alot of routes this summer so they may have changed the route and name.
I like my new gym better, but I must say, I miss the 90' indoor climbs there.
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lostinvegas
Dec 12, 2003, 9:26 PM
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My teeth(4 of them) snapped off too, when foot slipped and fell during a clip. Wonder how many people had done this...? But I still hold rope by teeth(bridged and false now) to clip something higher than my head - there isn't really much alternative.
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j_ung
Dec 12, 2003, 9:43 PM
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mmmff, i althwwwaazzz ooo.
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fullahsiffur
Dec 12, 2003, 9:51 PM
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Hey, I just now am climbing all of the blues at Okcrocks. Hey Mike, did you ever tackle Quarry daze (90 ft., all holds carved in wall)? I faked my way up it just to see what it is like. A guy at the gym said that he would probably rate it 5.13 b/c! Hey, I bet your gym in Texas has climate control. I climbed the old Dental Plan. It is now called "Lovesick, Broke, and Driftin' ." It was sacreligous to change the name of Numero Uno, though.
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mike_ok
Dec 12, 2003, 9:57 PM
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In reply to: Hey, I just now am climbing all of the blues at Okcrocks. Hey Mike, did you ever tackle Quarry daze (90 ft., all holds carved in wall)? I faked my way up it just to see what it is like. A guy at the gym said that he would probably rate it 5.13 b/c! Hey, I bet your gym in Texas has climate control. I climbed the old Dental Plan. It is now called "Lovesick, Broke, and Driftin' ." It was sacreligous to change the name of Numero Uno, though.
I have climbed most/all of the old blues, but I haven't been back to many of the new. Is Quarry daze the one in the little slot between to silo rooms? Across from the room with the wood crack and Fight Club? If so, I've messed around on it but never done it clean. The mostly carved finger crack in the silo-room next to the bathrooms is fun too.
Yes, my new gym is indeed climate controlled, with huge padding on the floors... thus, I like it more. Also more variety of routes.
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b_fost
Dec 12, 2003, 10:09 PM
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yes. quarry daze is exactly where you described it. i did it clean my third try, and i think that guy is bsing about the grade. there is no way its 13c!
the hardest part (in my opinion) is that carved in circle about 10 feet off the ground. looks like a great hold, but its sucks because of the metal rim.
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halcyon
Dec 12, 2003, 11:12 PM
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In reply to: ... starts to affect (effect?) ...
You were right the first time. It's affect. Kudos on clarifying in case your grammer was wrong. I see way too much bad grammer on this site, and sometimes it makes me a little nuts. Ya know?
p.s. If you say 'Your' when you mean 'you are', I'll eat your face.
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fullahsiffur
Dec 12, 2003, 11:39 PM
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What you just said, b-fost, sounds like BS to me. Did you stem at all? Stemming is not part of the climb. Some of the holds were very small compared with that rim. I could actually climb clean up to above that section. Did you do all 90 ft. clean, which includes no stemming?
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b_fost
Dec 12, 2003, 11:58 PM
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sounds like you didnt consider the option that...i could be better than you?? :wink:
why's it sound like bs? maybe i have better finger strength than you..?
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b_fost
Dec 13, 2003, 12:04 AM
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by the way fullahsiffur, you mentioned climbing all of the blues.. have you climbed wild at heart? i loved that climb.
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cloudbreak
Dec 13, 2003, 12:04 AM
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I don't even use my hands. I just reach down grab the rope with my mouth, come back up and clip it!
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deleted
Deleted
Dec 13, 2003, 12:08 AM
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[quote:81848e2f86="lostinvegas"]My teeth(4 of them) snapped off too, when foot slipped and fell during a clip. Wonder how many people had done this? [/quote:81848e2f86]
it's probably not an uncommon occurance. even if you , as someone mentioned, "use a loose grip" with your jaw, the natural immediate reaction to peeling is to tense up.
it's never happened to me, but i guess i'm just playing the odds like everyone else. it helps to be ugly. :wink:
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deleted
Deleted
Dec 13, 2003, 12:13 AM
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almost forgot ...
last week i watched a guy hold a draw in his mouth [i:d227d2270d]by the biner[/i:d227d2270d]. he was deep in concentration -- and it wasn't a life-threatening situation -- so i kept my big mouth shut while he made the clip.
i did find myself thinking, "boy, [i:d227d2270d]that's[/i:d227d2270d] gonna' take out some grinders!" :shock:
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b_fost
Dec 13, 2003, 12:17 AM
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getting your teeth ripped out makes you feel more hardcore...probably.
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davidji
Dec 13, 2003, 12:50 AM
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In reply to: My teeth(4 of them) snapped off too, when foot slipped and fell during a clip. Wonder how many people had done this
This seems like an advantage for double ropes (which I wasn't using), as at least when you're alternating clips, you won't fall farther because you pulled up slack, and you won't fall on the rope in your teeth. Unless your pieces start to rip...
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fullahsiffur
Dec 13, 2003, 12:54 AM
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Hey, I climbed the sucker with stemming. You won't beleive how hard it gets when you try it without stemming. THAT is what is rated 5.13 b/c. Otherwise, it would just be a 5.10/11.
Sorry.
I probably have better finger strenth if you try to use the dish instead of the mono above it... then again you probably never even saw that. :D
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fullahsiffur
Dec 13, 2003, 12:57 AM
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I just saw your other post, so here is my answer. Wild at Heart is pretty cool, albeit the easiest blue. Art of War is the best in my opinion! It has a dish, plenty of pockets, and brilliant route setting. The ending move is excellent.
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forbin
Dec 13, 2003, 2:37 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: ... starts to affect (effect?) ... You were right the first time. It's affect. Kudos on clarifying in case your grammer was wrong. I see way too much bad grammer on this site, and sometimes it makes me a little nuts. Ya know? p.s. If you say 'Your' when you mean 'you are', I'll eat your face.
Halcyon, risking having my face eaten, I believe you are incorrect about the usage of 'affect' versus 'effect.' A quotation (not to be confused with quote) from Britannica.com:
Usage: The confusion of the verbs affect and effect is not only quite common but has a long history. Effect was used in place of affect as early as 1494 and in place of affect as early as 1652. If you think you want to use the verb effect but are not certain, check the definitions in this dictionary. The noun affect is sometimes mistakenly used for effect. Except when your topic is psychology, you will seldom need the noun affect.
I am also quite disturbed by the poor grammer on this site. The constant misuse of there, their, and they're is like fingernails on a chalkboard.
alex
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valeberga
Dec 13, 2003, 5:02 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: ... starts to affect (effect?) ... You were right the first time. It's affect. Kudos on clarifying in case your grammer was wrong. I see way too much bad grammer on this site, and sometimes it makes me a little nuts. Ya know? p.s. If you say 'Your' when you mean 'you are', I'll eat your face. Halcyon, risking having my face eaten, I believe you are incorrect about the usage of 'affect' versus 'effect.' A quotation (not to be confused with quote) from Britannica.com: Usage: The confusion of the verbs affect and effect is not only quite common but has a long history. Effect was used in place of affect as early as 1494 and in place of affect as early as 1652. If you think you want to use the verb effect but are not certain, check the definitions in this dictionary. The noun affect is sometimes mistakenly used for effect. Except when your topic is psychology, you will seldom need the noun affect. I am also quite disturbed by the poor grammer on this site. The constant misuse of there, their, and they're is like fingernails on a chalkboard. alex
forbin you are confused. That quote is referring to the noun, not the verb. Halcyon is talking about the verb affect, which in fact is more common than the verb effect. Just look at def. #3 under affect.
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offwidthclimber
Dec 13, 2003, 6:08 AM
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Wow...
English majors or just dorks?
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deleted
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Dec 13, 2003, 6:49 AM
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[quote:552866527a="forbin"][quote:552866527a="halcyon"][quote:552866527a="b_fost"]... starts to affect (effect?) ...[/quote:552866527a]
You were right the first time. It's affect. Kudos on clarifying in case your [size=18:552866527a][b:552866527a]grammer[/b:552866527a][/size:552866527a] was wrong. I see way too much bad [size=18:552866527a][b:552866527a]grammer[/b:552866527a] [/size:552866527a]on this site, and sometimes it makes me a little nuts. Ya know?
p.s. If you say 'Your' when you mean 'you are', I'll eat your face.[/quote:552866527a]
Halcyon, risking having my face eaten, I believe you are incorrect about the usage of 'affect' versus 'effect.' A quotation (not to be confused with quote) from Britannica.com:
Usage: The confusion of the verbs affect and effect is not only quite common but has a long history. Effect was used in place of [i:552866527a]affect[/i:552866527a] as early as 1494 and in place of [i:552866527a]affect[/i:552866527a] as early as 1652. If you think you want to use the verb effect but are not certain, check the definitions in this dictionary. The noun affect is sometimes mistakenly used for effect. Except when your topic is psychology, you will seldom need the noun affect.
I am also quite disturbed by the poor [size=18:552866527a][b:552866527a]grammer[/b:552866527a] [/size:552866527a]on this site. The constant misuse of there, their, and they're is like fingernails on a chalkboard.
alex[/quote:552866527a]
[i:552866527a]here's[/i:552866527a] a suggestion: if yer gonna put on yer [i:552866527a]grammar nazi [/i:552866527a]hats, learn to spell [size=18:552866527a][i:552866527a]grammar[/i:552866527a] [/size:552866527a]. poor [size=18:552866527a][i:552866527a]grammar[/i:552866527a][/size:552866527a] makes [i:552866527a]me[/i:552866527a] nuts, too. :wink:
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overlord
Dec 13, 2003, 9:39 AM
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i sometimes use my mouth to hold rope for those long clips.
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b_fost
Dec 13, 2003, 1:06 PM
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maybe it would due halcyon and mtngeo gud to use a cupple tooths.
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jipstyle
Dec 13, 2003, 6:45 PM
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In reply to: You were right the first time.
In reply to: Kudos on clarifying in case your grammer was wrong.
The word is spelled grammar. The sentence itself is a travesty.
In reply to: I see way too much bad grammer on this site, and sometimes it makes me a little nuts. Ya know?
I suggest you stop being so hard on yourself. The more you practice writing properly, the easier it will become.
In reply to: p.s. If you say 'Your' when you mean 'you are', I'll eat your face.
P.S. If you correct someone's grammar in a post which appears to have been written by an elementary school student, I'll correct it for you.
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halcyon
Dec 14, 2003, 8:13 PM
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Wow... vicious...
I'm never surprised when someone is singled out in a flame fest on this site. First off, spelling is different than grammAr, so you cant use that against me. As for the original grammar issue (affect vs. effect) I was talking about the verb affect. I'm not going to argue any more about it because it's stupid. The fact of the mater is that all I was doing was letting b_frost know he was right, and congratulating him for wanting to correctly get his point across. If by doing that you can get attacked by all sides, this site has some major social issues to work out. I'm probably not going out of my way to compliment another on this site again though.
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valeberga
Dec 15, 2003, 1:44 AM
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In reply to: Wow... vicious...
lol
yeah (failure to capitalize) we got (oh I'm sorry, have) some serious dudes here. Dropping web site references and everything (sentence fragment, absence of punctuation)
Screw it I'm done with English... Siempre es mejor tener la cuerda en tu boca, para que puedes saber el sabor de la tierra, los polvos de aluminio y magnesio, y la grasa de tus manos y las manos de tu companero. Por eso siempre escalo con mi cuerda en mi boca, porque es mejor disfrutar la experiencia completa que estar seguro. En todo caso, el muere es inevitable y el sabor de una cuerda madura vale mas que solo una vida. (Me perdonaran la falta de acentos.)
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rockingnyc
Jan 2, 2004, 5:34 AM
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As long as you can spit it out durring a fall, I really don't see a problem with it.
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trackhead
Jan 29, 2004, 8:31 AM
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Friend of mine fell making a clip on a trad route. Ripped out his two front teeth. Looked all over the place for his teeth and couldn't find them. I took him to the emergency dentist, and later found his teeth in his pack. Somehow they fell right into it lying at the base of the route.
Needless to say, I never put the rope in my mouth while clipping. His head snapped back pretty good, although he said the extraction was painless.
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kathy
Jan 29, 2004, 11:35 AM
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In reply to: Needless to say, I never put the rope in my mouth while clipping. His head snapped back pretty good, although he said the extraction was painless.
so what are the alternatives? (Esp. when cliping at waist level is not an option)
K
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ra
Feb 4, 2004, 10:00 PM
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Is there any other way to do it? I think we shouldn't do it but can't find a better choice.
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okieterry
Feb 4, 2004, 11:17 PM
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I do it all the time and don't even think about it! Usually I try to reach down and grab just enough rope to pull it up and clip in one motion but sometimes it gets desperate and I just grab it with my teeth. One time in Yosemite it did cause a cap that was on one of my front teeth to come off. It was cool walking around with a missing tooth and duct taped glasses for a couple of months. Later on (with Superdiamonddave) I wacked it again with a #4 camalot and broke the cap and post out.
Back to Quarry Daze at OKC Rocks. It is my favorite inside route. I have been working it for about a year and still haven't got it. The hardest moves to me are near the top. It was probably me that gave you the 5.13b rating. A couple of guys from colorado who climb that grade regularly gave it that (and they didn't get it either!).
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