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dredsovrn
Feb 12, 2004, 10:35 PM
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When it comes to gear, if you have any doubt, don't use it. Unless the price of a new one is worth more than your life. In which case, go for it.
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coylec
Feb 12, 2004, 11:02 PM
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If you doubt your equipment, there are two solutions
(1) chuck it and replace it
(2) eliminate your doubt
cracklover is right (and I respect his opinion because i've read a number of his other posts, which I agreed with) in saying that you get a feel for people by reading their posts. The number of posts they have had is sometimes indicative, but not always.
jt512's posts, in my experience, have been very good. in addition to knowing the answers, jt usually knows the places the verify the facts.
jt, like other prolific posters, tends to sprinkle in exhortations to do your own research. it's great to get opinions here, but they are just opinions. a fact of this sport appears to be there are differing compelling reasons to do things. For example, I rap with a backup. Others argue its bad, because you tend to grab it and it doesn't tighten, or if it does, it can burn through. i personally believe everyone needs to get all the facts they can and make their own decision based on this.
coylec
ps - jt - thanks for answering that PM, btw, i forgot to thank you.
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jt512
Feb 13, 2004, 12:33 AM
Post #53 of 61
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In reply to: In reply to: What's the consensus? The original poster of this topic asked for a consensus, what type of a consensus would it be if only your opinion counts???
What kind of consensus is it when the majority of those who respond don't know what they are talking about? The consensus among knowledgeable climbers is that that rope is perfectly good to TR on.
-Jay
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coldclimb
Feb 13, 2004, 1:32 AM
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And how is it that when you were considering whether it was a consensus or not, my agreeing with Jay was completely disregarded? The evidence shows clearly that it is not only Jay's opinion here. Read the other posts as well as his. There have been several others supporting Jay's opinion as well.
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curt
Feb 13, 2004, 1:32 AM
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I was involved in a number of those other threads that Jay mentions concerning rope age and diminished fall holding capacity. If the rope is factually as described here (6 or 7 years old, stored properly, no major lead falls) the thing is probably fine to lead on.
However, as Jay also asserts, it may be advisable to err on the side of caution. In my mind there is no doubt whatsoever that it is OK to use a rope as described here for TR.
Curt
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slcliffdiver
Feb 13, 2004, 2:28 AM
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In reply to: Like everybody here, I'm left wondering what JT really means and thinks. Was UV not an issue? Should the rope be left IN the sunlight or in the COLD storage room?
IUAA Journal 3-2000
In reply to: Ageing caused only by storage can almost be neglected compared with ageing during use. This also holds for ageing by the influence of ultraviolet radiation; ropes may lose their colour with time, but virtually no loss of strength (more precisely, no loss of energy absorption capacity over an edge), because since the beginning of the 1960’s all perlon and nylon (polyamide) has been UV-stabilised.
It may not make much difference but I'm still not about to leave my ropes in the sun more than neccisary.
I wasn't going to add my 2 cents orginally (I thought posting what Jay said would be redundant). For many years the mantra I've heard was as long as the rope hasn't been exposed to acid (fumes count no car batteries in the trunck with your rope), excess heat, doesn't have any dips or flat spots in it and it's sheath was intact it, was it was good for top roping. However I found this not to be true with one very "used" rope. I had a dedicated top rope that after much use decided it want to be a bungi cord. Sit test before the start of a top rope session can be a good thing besides just testing your anchor.
Unless some nasty befalls it the life cycle of my ropes is generally lead rope > top rope > non climbing uses for myself and others.
If what poster here mean by consensus is "majority" please don't go by that on this site. I just don't think it's reliable here. I'd probably have 10 times the posts here that I do if there weren't for some posters like Jay that post frequently and imo consistantly "get it right". I think the numbers may end up skewed because when some people see an answer that they are confident is correct they feel no need to follow up regardless of what people have said before (often the case with me anway).
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diesel___smoke
Feb 13, 2004, 3:56 AM
Post #57 of 61
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In reply to: What kind of consensus is it when the majority of those who respond don't know what they are talking about? The consensus among knowledgeable climbers is that that rope is perfectly good to TR on.
You're questioning my knowledge?
Ever climb any grade VIs, Jay? Ever solo a wall, Jay? Ever knock off a wall in less than half a day, Jay?
Well, I've done the above. So, suffice to say, I, and I'm sure many others would agree I must, at least, be knowledgeable in something. After all, the person on the summit didn't fall there...
And, perhaps you lacked to read or comprehend my post, I agreed with you that the rope sounds fine, I would, also, probably lead on the rope.
Would I be wrong to get the impression you're a fascist, Jay?
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jt512
Feb 13, 2004, 4:35 AM
Post #58 of 61
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In reply to: In reply to: What kind of consensus is it when the majority of those who respond don't know what they are talking about? The consensus among knowledgeable climbers is that that rope is perfectly good to TR on. You're questioning my knowledge?
No. Neither my initial "Why bother?" comment nor the above were referring to you. I did think your concern about the rope being stored in a cool, dark, UV-exposed place was a bit unrealistic, though.
In reply to: Would I be wrong to get the impression you're a fascist, Jay?
Yes, you'd be wrong.
-Jay
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diesel___smoke
Feb 13, 2004, 4:51 AM
Post #59 of 61
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: What kind of consensus is it when the majority of those who respond don't know what they are talking about? The consensus among knowledgeable climbers is that that rope is perfectly good to TR on. You're questioning my knowledge? No. Neither my initial "Why bother?" comment nor the above were referring to you. I did think your concern about the rope being stored in a cool, dark, UV-exposed place was a bit unrealistic, though. In reply to: Would I be wrong to get the impression you're a fascist, Jay? Yes, you'd be wrong. -Jay
I had asked if your comment was directed at me, had you have said then that it wasn't we wouldn't have had this little quarrel, my mistake... Perhaps I was being a little too sensitive by taking them personal :oops: :)
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catbiter
Feb 13, 2004, 6:02 AM
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I thought this post was going to be about someone asking if a dollar store rope was okay to TR with.
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cantbuymefriends
Feb 13, 2004, 8:43 AM
Post #61 of 61
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Registered: Aug 28, 2003
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In reply to: And how is it that when you were considering whether it was a consensus or not, my agreeing with Jay was completely disregarded? The evidence shows clearly that it is not only Jay's opinion here. Read the other posts as well as his. There have been several others supporting Jay's opinion as well.
I, too, agree with Jay. As you can see in the other thread you posted with the same(?) question. Maybe I even said it first... :wink: :wink:
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