|
|
|
|
corbin
Mar 17, 2004, 6:31 AM
Post #26 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2003
Posts: 35
|
I can see where your coming from joe, to each his own. "we hardcore slackers'' will devote lots of time and money into the sport- will devote money because we dont want some cheep ratchet poping on us tightening a highline, that could lead to a loss of life. -ric, at slackline.com (slackline brothers) wrote up a very good gear review that you all should read-stuff bout ratchets in there you should read too. Where as the people known as "backyard slackers" could care less about the pureity of the sport. Could care less about MA's. Unforunite. Heck man, MAs are great. It leads over to other things too- like hauling on a wall. Heck-off the top of my head now, I can think of a 9:1 using 4 pulleys. Tell me thats not pretty dang cool. If you used a ratchet, ill be you couldnt tell me how to do that. But thats cool, like I said- to each his own. Use ratchets if it pleases you. I suppose it filters down to a thing of ethics maybe? Let it not seperate us all. Just what i think.
|
|
|
|
|
slacklinejoe
Mar 17, 2004, 7:14 AM
Post #27 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 1423
|
I have read Ric's review, the original one he put out, and the edited one later (If I remember right it was tamed down quite a bit).
My biggest issue there was resorting to name calling off the bat and judging people he had never met, making blanket statements about gear he'd never seen. He mentioned not using ratchets because they were bulky but his pulleys take up more room than my kits, so I was a little taken off on that. As far as durability I've been using higher end stuff items (which do not come from Home Depot) which have handled near daily abuse without fail or even signs of issues since we started doing this. The other issue was karma, which I can see why he'd say that, but I have to think it's just a perspective difference.
When I emailed him to gve him a bit more info about what I was trying to do, I never got even a reply or an acknowledgement. That kind of turned me off of trying to work with them to help promote the sport, which at the time I really wanted to do. If I had to guess I think he was just a little more excited about the situation than necessary at the time, but that's just my take on it.
I mean if you think about it, the more newbies that get into the sport, the more hardcore slackers will evolve out of the mix over time, thus promoting his gear and the future of the sport. In my mind, our items never would have competed against each other, but it sure might help each other in the long run.
I mean was it really worth insulting someone who had sold a whopping 8 kits out of his garage at the time and mostly just wanted to help promote tips and tricks for the sport to people who might not otherwise have gotten into it? But thats irrelavant and in the past and what is done is done and I can understand why he'd say what he says.
In the end though, it just makes me happy that I've gotten so many new people into the sport and that I get so many thank you letters for doing what I enjoy.
On your other note yeah, I would never, never recommend a ratchet for holding a highline. However, you could always try removing it from the line after tensioning which is quite doable with that add-on slide lock that I mentioned earlier in this thread. I have that plastered all over my site and product instructions that I don't sell anything for highlines nor am I qualified to give advice on them.
If nothing else, I kind of like the fact that this thread brought some of the people who might not have posted on this board to the table for a discussion.
I do realize also, that I type way the heck too much on these replies, but I want to do my best to avoid miscommunications - so I'm sorry for making everyone following this thread read so much.
- Joe
|
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
Mar 17, 2004, 7:36 AM
Post #28 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
In reply to: MA Rules !!! Once you truly understand the principles of MA. Ratchets, come-a- longs, truck tightening of lines, are absolutly useless!
What is MA?
|
|
|
|
|
theturtle
Mar 17, 2004, 8:58 AM
Post #29 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 16, 2004
Posts: 122
|
Slackline is tiny sport and already breaking down into sub-genres – “backyard slackers” “hard core slackers and highliners”, does this remind you of the trad vs. sport debates of the 80’s or the bouldering vs. rope climbing movement of the 90’s? Are we gonna have to hear about ethics AGAIN? Corbin, you’re 15 man, chill out a little. I’ve been listening to stupid debates about ethics since before you were born.
MA is apparently short for Mechanical Advantage and it’s also apparently uncontested as the best way to tighten a slackline.
Obviously there is no way a $23 ratcheting truck strap can generate the same amount of force using solely the leverage of its handle, as a MA. Those cheaply made straps are not rated to generate the ridiculous amounts of force slacklinejoe quotes. 10,000 lbs. is what the strap is rated to hold a log on the back of a truck at. There’s no way can you generate 10,000 lbs. of force by clicking a ratchet handle. Anyone who has used one knows, as the line nears its proper tension, the ratchet device makes scary noises, as if it might perhaps explode? Those things don’t cost $23 because they’re made out of high quality metal. If you use one, don’t hurt yourself.
Fortunately Scott Balcom has invented the recreational slacker’s dream, an easy to use tensioning system, the Slack-Jack. It safely provides a 6:1 MA, is self locking and easy to release. If the cost of the Slack-Jack is prohibitive, use 2 biners and 25’ of supertape, (the Ellington) you can tighten your line just as tight as a ratchet and never put yourself in danger.
Let’s be careful out there…
|
|
|
|
|
lunchbox
Mar 17, 2004, 1:23 PM
Post #30 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 9, 2003
Posts: 20
|
Hey Joe,
Thanks for posting those pics. I'm redesigning those A frames, they are already starting to crack. The rev B will be out of aluminum I beam 4" wide, welded and adjustable.
As far as my balance, thanks all for the tips, I have a 6' step ladder I'm using to get on the line and then for a hand hold to assist until I can fly free, my progress is slow since I badly sprained an ankle out at J-tree a couple weeks ago. I'll get there just poking a little behind the rest of you all.
Scott
|
|
|
|
|
casco
Mar 17, 2004, 2:36 PM
Post #31 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 31, 2003
Posts: 279
|
a rachet is the easy way, and it is cheaper than two biners. but hey, what do I know, I have only set 20 feet of slackline. it´s stupid to make it longer, for if you get to traverse it all, you can turn around and continue, the turn gives it an extra dificulty level! So, just stop fighting, build the slackline as you want. I used a ratchet and worked pretty well. I bent the steel hook that came with it, so I replaced it with a webbing loop.
|
|
|
|
|
uncleslackline
Mar 17, 2004, 4:26 PM
Post #32 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2004
Posts: 76
|
-Joe, you said you wanted to discuss this issue with the big time slackers.
Well, they are talking to you, but you don't even know it!
You say that we are stuck in our ways and that we are not open to new ideas like ratchets. Yet you admit that you have never set up with a quality pulley system. Did it ever accur to you that maybe you are the one who is stuck!
I did return your e-mail! And in my honest gear review I referred to you and Asana as scavenging hyenas, and I stand by it.
I have resisted doing this for years but here it goes!
If you are sick of whatching the blind lead the blind on this forum, check out the intelligent alternittive. Slackline.com
On slackline.com there are experienced slackers, No Joes!
|
|
|
|
|
slacklinejoe
Mar 17, 2004, 5:06 PM
Post #33 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 1423
|
TheTurtle:
You would never try to generate the maximum capacity of a tensioning system on a line, as soon as you hop on it thats where the real tension starts coming into play. Thats why a 2" steel frame with 4 layers of 2" webbing can be DOT approved at 10,000 lbs tension. With it locked off the frame takes the abuse not the moving parts.
Besides if anyone hasn't caught on yet, I remove the tightening system from the setup on bigger lines (70+). I set the tension, then slide lock it off then tie off with a release hitch. So how does that make an unsafe line when it isn't even connected during the slacking and tensioning doesn't get anywhere near it's capacity?
But yeah, I agree, the sport is so small that radical segregation couldn't be a good thing for the logevity and health of the sport.
Uncle:
Actually, I knew who I walk talking to for the most part, I just hope you guys would actually stick around on the board for useful items instead of rather "belief debates." I get dinged because I try to help too much around here. You could always help me out a little by sticking around and shaping the future of our sport. Rigging experience and advanced techniques are always useful around and a lot of people would appreciate the advice. In stead of trying to pull them over to your site, you could always help here.
Actually, I didn't say I hadn't used or don't own a pulley system, I don't own one of yours but I have set them up. Growing up we used to make logging hoists with rediculous ratios - so I'm not quite so inexperienced in the area that I'm on square one. I still rig lines the traditional way with carabiners or pulleys (mine just aren't lightweight climbnig pulleys) just to make sure I keep in touch with reality and don't get stuck in my ways. Also, I never recieved the email, so you can re-send if you want.
So what would you recommend for all of those non-climbers or very new climbers I mentioned? They won't spend that type of cash, they aren't dedicated to the sport but they still want to have fun.
|
|
|
|
|
slackinfl
Mar 17, 2004, 9:25 PM
Post #34 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2004
Posts: 15
|
I don't understand what some peoples difficulty with figuring out the primitive system is. It is so simple. Three cheap caribiners is max 15 bucks. I think that it is the best way to get into the sport. It teaches you the basics of mechanical advantage and you can pull a line as long and tight as any beginner is going to need to pull with a couple friends. I got my friend 75ft of line and 3 biners at snowleopard.com for $29 and change.
I've been waiting to see this thread for a while. I just didn't want to be the one to start it.
Is there a way to find out if someone is using more than one name to give theirself props?
Unrelated
Joe just tell me what you do for work that requires the bad ass bdus to be your main clothing choice?
|
|
|
|
|
slacklinejoe
Mar 17, 2004, 9:51 PM
Post #35 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 1423
|
In reply to: Is there a way to find out if someone is using more than one name to give theirself props? Unrelated Joe just tell me what you do for work that requires the bad ass bdus to be your main clothing choice?
The moderators will be able to see an IP listing for posters. I think this issue came up ones when NFC first popped up on the board as well. Frankly, I'm not too worried about it since people can clearly see any biasing and advertising pitches - but it is a valid concern in general and posting ethics.
I think part of the issue with primitives have come down to that last few bucks and requiring additional people to pull it. That 23 bucks I mentioned was for a full 30' line, tree sings and dual tensioning system and simplistic setup. Maybe that last couple bucks is enough to cause people to shy away, hard to say. That or it could be that setting it solo without help is a deciding factor. Both are valid points. People, even skilled climbers, were making them with ratchets long before I ever started slacking.
I have to admit, your the first person to be intrigued by my clothing choices. As for my BDUs, my job certainly doesn't require it. I work for a university, Southwest Missouri State University (www.smsu.edu) to be more precise.
I do several things where I work, mostly I teach web developers how to make their web sites usable by all people regardless to disability, program web applications, write technical specifications which sometimes shape disability related laws for the state. I also a officer on a support team for all 480 web developers we have on campus and help review the over 1 million web pages we have. I also occasionally deliver lecutures and training sessions to various groups in the mid-west. So yeah, I dedicate my work to helping people who might not otherwise get an equal shot in this world.
The BDUs work well because they pass as dress pants but I don't have to change if I go climb or slack after work.
|
|
|
|
|
metoliusshawn
Mar 18, 2004, 10:22 AM
Post #36 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 50
|
ss
|
|
|
|
|
japhyr
Mar 19, 2004, 1:04 AM
Post #37 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2003
Posts: 77
|
I'll admit I've been annoyed at some of the salesperson talk in this forum. However, the spirit of Joe's posts is always about getting people into the sport in the way that is right for them. He always mentions the various options, he never claims to have the right solution for a highline.
If a climber wants to begin slacklining, I think they should learn the primitive system, because if you're a climber you should already be familiar with slings and biners and webbing.
I still would rather see nonclimbers use biners to set up a primitive system, but let's face it, if you're only going to walk a short line close to the ground, a ratchet will introduce you to the sport. If that's as far as you go in the sport, that's fine. Anyone who gets hooked on slacklining and wants to make longer lines or highlines will learn the other setups when the time is right.
We can argue purity until the end of time, but the only pressing argument is about safety. I think all ratchets should be removed from a line before walking on it, but I don't think it's dangerous to use a ratchet to tension a short line before tying it off. As long as everyone is up front about the safety issues, we can leave everyone to their own beliefs about purity.
Joe, is learning to set up a primitive system any more complicated than learning to remove the ratchet from the line without losing tension?
|
|
|
|
|
slacklinejoe
Mar 19, 2004, 2:13 AM
Post #38 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 1423
|
In reply to: Joe, is learning to set up a primitive system any more complicated than learning to remove the ratchet from the line without losing tension?
Thank you for your reasonable persective on the subject. I appreciate it since I know that you're certainly a fan of using climbing gear for all parts of the line.
As far as removing the ratchet, I'd have to say that it's at least a little simpler, even though it will probably sound more complex since I go into detail. (See the photo I posted earlier, it's pretty dummy friendly in reality)
A primitive line isn't brain surgery, but it does require some finess at getting the right tension (can be a pain if your solo), not twisting your lines and tying off safely without letting the tension slip and such.
With the slide lock that I use, you don't have the problem with letting it slip tension and it simplifies the procedure down to a level which makes it easy to take your time and tie off very securely.
It pretty much works as follows, it either uses the same tree sling or a seperate one as the ratchet. The slide lock must already be on the line before tensioning. Once the tension is set with the ratchet you are ready to lock it off.
Another strand of webbing that is locked to the parachute slide lock with a carabiner, this completely circumvents the ratchet so once you release the ratchet, the line is then held in place by the tree sling going to the slide lock. Slipage is minimal, usually 1/2 inch or less. At this point it holds itself unaided. You just unspool the ratchet, remove it from the system and use that end to tie off to the tree friendly or directly to the tree.
Once it is tied off you can remove the carabiner and spare peice of webbing which just leaves the tiny slide lock in place out of the way, that would be the only metal on the line if you rig it that way. For a few people, any metal in the system at all is a concern, but personally I don't see it as an issue. I suppose with a little creative work it could be removed as well, but the extra effort involved makes it questionable if you really want to mess with it. Depending on your preference, you can tie it off with the slack going over a biner to eliminate nylon on nylon or without. If it's big line (100'+ for instance) a release hitch can be used to make releasing safer, or you can lock it off again, re-attach the ratchet and use it's mechanisim to control the relase.
During the time that it is locked off the parachute slide lock is holding the line tension, which will not hold safely if someone jumps on it. Its rated at 1,000 lbs tensile which is enough to hold non-super tensioned lines when unweighted. It is necessary to have it released before slacking on it to prevent going over it's rating.
Theoreticlaly it could be used to help tie off primitive lines as well if someone was having problems locking it off and tying without losing tension or to make a really nice adjustable pull loop (I think Ethos offers something similar to that).
Obviously it isn't a technique I would try on any line that needed over 1,000 lbs of tension just to set. Once your looking at that type of line, you'd better be learning to use pulleys anyway.
|
|
|
|
|
theturtle
Mar 19, 2004, 3:21 AM
Post #39 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 16, 2004
Posts: 122
|
In reply to: I'll admit I've been annoyed at some of the salesperson talk in this forum. However, the spirit of Joe's posts is always about getting people into the sport in the way that is right for them.
Thanks japhyr for adding an intelligent post. I agree, slacklinejoe is super psyched on Slackline, and that’s cool. I don’t think calling names or writing nonsense will make him go away. Slacklinejoe does give out plenty of erroneous and misleading information and if someone would like to point out his errors in a constructive manner, everyone on the thread would benefit. The real question is where would you start?
Joe-
The DOT approves your ratchets to hold a 10,000 lb. load on the back of a truck, not as tensioning tools. My point was that your ratchet could never generate the 10,000 lb. maximum force or anything near it, because it uses leverage, which is vastly inferior to a mechanical advantage or MA. Besides, the slackline and any other hardware would fail long before you got to 10,000 lbs.
It is true that you can tighten a Slackline with a ratchet, and most of us have, but there is a more efficient way to tighten a Slackline. Just by using 2 carabiners and 25’ of supertape (the Ellington) any recreational length line is easily tightened. There is no bulky 2” webbing or 2” steel frame, or big steel handle, or side locks and best of all it has nothing to do with the DOT. I am confused as to how a lighter and more efficient system for slackline tensioning suddenly became known as “the primitive” system.
Releasing a line onto soft-points is also easy and far less complicated than your “highly advanced” system, and you don’t need to re-attach the tensioning system when you breakdown if you do it properly.
We are going to post a step-by-step photo instruction page on our web site, hopefully by next week.
Keep on slackin'
|
|
|
|
|
jello
Mar 19, 2004, 4:27 AM
Post #40 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 89
|
In reply to: Uncle: Actually, I knew who I walk talking to for the most part, I just hope you guys would actually stick around on the board for useful items instead of rather "belief debates." I get dinged because I try to help too much around here. You could always help me out a little by sticking around and shaping the future of our sport.
Joe, I gota say its great you are so gungho about slacklining at such a young age.
However, Ric (from slacklinebrothers) has been sticking around and shaping the future of our sport since before you were concieved.
If it wasn't for guys like him you may never have heard about slacklining yourself. :wink:
In reply to: We are going to post a step-by-step photo instruction page on our web site, hopefully by next week. |
|
|
|
|
slacklinejoe
Mar 19, 2004, 6:33 AM
Post #41 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 1423
|
Never said you'd ever generate 10,000 lbs, just that the frame and webbing was rated as such. I thought I spelled that out at least once already in this thread and a few others. If I wasn't extremely obvious about it when I said it I appologize:
In reply to: You would never try to generate the maximum capacity of a tensioning system on a line, as soon as you hop on it thats where the real tension starts coming into play. Thats why a 2" steel frame with 4 layers of 2" webbing can be DOT approved at 10,000 lbs tension. With it locked off the frame takes the abuse not the moving parts.
In reality you'd be pushing it to hit 1,000 much less the full 10K. The real tension happens after somone has gotten on the line, not during the setup. If I had to guess setup is more like 400-600lbs being average, but that's just a guess. The real meaning in that number is that it won't be the point of failure under a tensile load on a slackline, your webbing, stitching/knots and carabiners would be suspect first.
As for any technical FACTUAL problems with what I've said, please elaborate here or PM me as I'm curious. As I pointed out earlier in this thread, if someone wants to correct me, fantastic - I'm all about learning. Judgements are a whole lot less useful.
As far as leverage being "inferior" making such a statement as far as usefulness and such are of little value in practice? It's physics, as in facts of how matter and engergy behaves. Subjective judgements like inferior are hard to place in that realm. If you start talking about efficency of force applied, then you can start making good judgements. But then you have to factor in friction of the pulleys or webbing over carabiners VS a variable diameter spool attached to a leverage system that is "reset" back down every so many feet of webbing.
Give Plato a place to stand and a long enough lever....
As far as efficency, here's how I currently see it; I can set a 60 foot line solo using my methods one handed with little effort, but I can't do it on a 3:1 pulling as hard as I can, a 6:1 and maybe with all my effort (using just webbing and biners anyway) but I'd be thinking 9:1 or higher to be comparable in effort wise (haven't tried it yet, but I will, it sure wasn't happening using webbing only with no pulleys). With pulleys and rope I'm sure that number would reduce drastically.
BUT I'm not arguing saying that any method is superior at all, which I think still isn't getting across. I'm saying alternatives appear as a valid solution for those who have no desire to master rigging skills and just want to slackline for as little effort and cash invested as possible. For anyone else, that solution doesn't necessarily have the same benifits.
Saying it isn't a valid option would be saying it doesn't work, but it does - as you noted many, many people have already done it successfully with no real skills or strength required to make it work.
As far as soft pointing, thats one area that I'll admit, I need more ideas and experience. That was just my method I came up with playing around in my garage. Its highly effective for gym rats like myself with little outside expereince, but as soon as I see it done and master it myself I'll expand my methods. I'm still very much a beginner in setting anchors and rigging manipulations.
When I started this sport, I looked at this problem very much from a beginners perspective, I was hooked slacking before I could climb a 5.8, had never climbed outside and had next to zero equipment. From that perspective, the solution to slacking looks a whole lot different and I seem to not be the only one. As my climbing skills improved and I started accumulating more gear, I started playing with different rigging techniques and such - it seems to be a common story.
|
|
|
|
|
japhyr
Mar 19, 2004, 9:43 AM
Post #42 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2003
Posts: 77
|
In reply to: it uses leverage, which is vastly inferior to a mechanical advantage
Leverage is a form of mechanical advantage. Mechanical advantage is the measure of how much a system, any system, multiplies an input force. The mechanical advantage of a lever is simply the distance from the pivot to the input force (handle on a ratchet), divided by the distance from the pivot point to the output force (the radius of the webbing spool). It does not take a very long handle on a ratchet to produce a 6:1 or even a 9:1 mechanical advantage.
|
|
|
|
|
theturtle
Mar 19, 2004, 5:53 PM
Post #43 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 16, 2004
Posts: 122
|
Again, thanks jayphr. I was obviously not specific enough in my statement.
The inferiority I refer to is in the category of bulk vs. efficiency, as well as safety.
The quest for the perfect slackline tool will not be ended with a “long enough lever”, the idea is to find a system that is simple and not bulky.
Again, DOT truck straps are not tensioning tools. They re not designed to tension things, they’re for securing loads on the backs of trucks. It is misleading to give out DOT ratings like “10,000 lbs.” it implies that the device is somehow powerful, when in fact, the DOT rating has nothing to do with the power or efficiency of the device. You can use a screwdriver to gouge wood, but that does not make it a good wood chisel.
There is also some risk involved with using a tool for something it was never designed to do.
|
|
|
|
|
japhyr
Mar 20, 2004, 12:17 AM
Post #44 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2003
Posts: 77
|
turtle,
You found a clear way to express some of my personal objections to ratchets and such. I don't like the bulk, and I don't like using them for something they are not designed for.
I am enjoying this thread not for argument's sake, but because it's helping me figure out exactly when ratchets are reasonable and when they are not, even though I prefer they never be used.
A ratchet or come-along is a tensioning tool. I'm not sure why you would say they are not. I believe you strap a load down on a truck, and then use the ratchet to create tension in the strap, thus securing the load to the truck. The DOT ratings are meaningful, if they are understood properly.
|
|
|
|
|
theturtle
Mar 20, 2004, 3:39 AM
Post #45 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 16, 2004
Posts: 122
|
Jayphr,
Again, I was not specific enough. I do consider come-a-longs tensioning tools, but DOT ratchet straps are not. While it is true the ratcheting mechanism IS a tensioning tool, it is only designed to tension its own webbing to secure a load. The DOT rating is only useful to know what size load can be secured. It has nothing to do with how much force is generated by the ratcheting mechanism.
edited for sloppy spelling...
|
|
|
|
|
japhyr
Mar 20, 2004, 5:27 AM
Post #46 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2003
Posts: 77
|
Thank you! That is a very interesting clarification. Rated to secure a 10,000 lb load is much different than rated to hold 10,000 lb tension. I was wondering about this, because the only ratchet I own, which I use to hold my kayak on my car, is rated to 400 lb I believe.
|
|
|
|
|
slacklinejoe
Mar 20, 2004, 8:53 PM
Post #47 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 1423
|
I got to looking on the web for a bit more on the standards for rating on ratchets and such and I found a fairly good description of the component capacity, rated capacity and work load limits from one of the manufacturers.
It appears they are still rated on a pull test for tension for their rated capacity. The work load is actually just a built in buffer by DOT.
http://www.keepercorp.com/rated.htm
At least my take from it is that it is still rated on a 10,000 lb pull test for tension.
As far as how much tension can be produced using the moving parts, I'd say it exceeds what you'd be putting on a slackline (except extreme lengths) to set it by any means, but I was unable to find anything in particular about the handle/leveraging capacity. Although you can use calculations for leverage to get an idea of how much tension is possible to exert through it (or at least a leverage ratio).
Again that comes into play where the tension to set the line vs the tesion while someone is on the line.
|
|
|
|
|
japhyr
Mar 21, 2004, 5:34 AM
Post #48 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2003
Posts: 77
|
That's an interesting site. Which ratchets do you use in your kits?
|
|
|
|
|
slacklinejoe
Mar 21, 2004, 5:48 AM
Post #49 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 1423
|
I've switched twice since I started assembling them. I'm using Allied anso-teks now. I used to use the ones from Home Depot, Keeper's I think, but the mechanisims seemed to vary from unit to unit more than I cared for.
I had to use lithium grease on the moving parts and clean it up really well before they left or some wouldn't release smoothly. The nice part about the Allieds is: slightly longer handle without having a larger footprint; which packs up about 2" wider that a climbing shoe but otherwise the same dimensions.
It has a much more friendly handle since it has a rubberized grip, much more consistant tolerances, MUCH smoother action and I don't need oiled/greased to perform like they should.
I also felt that they handled higher tensions as they feel the same while the other two types I used felt liked the started to bind on themselves more under longer lines.
Costs me a little more, but it's worth it so my customer's won't have to deal with inconsistancies. Even though I never had any problems with the others, I feel more confident in this batch.
People might assume I just grab what ever is the cheapest, but I do put a lot of work into actually testing these to make sure they work as I expect them to.
Good thing I know that no one can get rich off making these or I might be paranoid answering questions like that. (read as: it takes a lot of kits just to pay for my gym membership....)
|
|
|
|
|
climbingurlie
Mar 21, 2004, 6:12 AM
Post #50 of 50
(19612 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2003
Posts: 202
|
I use rachets for my slackline, and they work just great for my beginning level. I bought a whole kit from slacklinejoe for very cheap, and it works. I may change my views on this when I get more advanced though...
|
|
|
|
|
|
