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jt512
Mar 19, 2004, 11:30 PM
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In reply to: the hardest route i've seen at my gym was a .13a/b
I see you're in Claremont, so would that be Hangar 18? We've had harder routes from time to time. Before they all moved to Colorado, a lot of top-name climbers, like Tiffany Campbell, Lisa Rands, and others, used to train at Hangar 18. A couple years ago Kodee and Jason Campbell put up a 13+/14-, not that anyone but them could actually climb it.
-Jay
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ikefromla
Mar 19, 2004, 11:36 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: i've seen 13c/d. Hard 13's and 14's are set all the time for comps. at world cup difficulty comps the routes have to be brutally hard to spit off some of those competitors. yah, but these are on world cup standard walls. 20+ meters high with lots of unrelenting angles. |
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ikellen
Mar 20, 2004, 2:48 AM
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Well, the grades in our gym are a 1-7 scale, with 1 being a ladder essentially, and 7 about 13b or so. The hardest lead/TR I've seen was 13D, rated at a 7+. It was an incredibly crimpy overhand to small tiny holds, hand foot matches, and just insanely hard moves in general. I never saw anyone do it.
There is one unmarked route, which is basically a bunch of small edges chipped into an overhanging arete. Pretty much every move is probably equal to the crux of a 5.12 or higher :lol:
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jt512
Mar 20, 2004, 3:37 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: It's possible, but if you can't send it, how will you be able to rate it? Who said I can't?
It goes without saying.
-Jay
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andrewokc
Mar 20, 2004, 5:21 PM
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In reply to: My gym has a VERTICAL, yes VERTICAL, 13 b/c. Ninety feet on thin egdes and cracks, no plastic holds. The only thing 'plastic' about it is that it is man-made and indoors.
sorry bro. that isnt a 13b/c. believe me, its not that fucking hard. its like 12a
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curt
Mar 20, 2004, 6:30 PM
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In reply to: The hardest plastic sent. . .
Curt
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xanx
Mar 20, 2004, 7:46 PM
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my gym routinely has V11+ stuff set... there are almost always more than 2 problems that flat out will never get done (some taped, some untaped).
and we do have some strong climbers... 4 that climb V11 and up, plus more when we have comps.
at The Wall up in Vermont, Ben Hebb set a route he thought is about 5.14c... he was working Livin Astro 5.14c at the time, so i trust his assessment to within a grade or so... point it is was HARD.
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ikefromla
Mar 20, 2004, 8:16 PM
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WOW. I want to send 14c.. even if it's on plastic.. that is sick.
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elcommunisto
Mar 21, 2004, 8:43 AM
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Some register jockey at Boulder Rock Club said they have a .14a in there, although I've never seen it. My regular gym has a couple .13something routes, but I'm not exactly sure what they are.
EC
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overlord
Mar 22, 2004, 3:25 PM
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the final route in WC Kranj 2003 was considered about .13b and i think they stil had room to grow :wink:
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pianomahnn
Mar 23, 2004, 2:50 AM
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Well, looks as though the route is about 13d-ish.
Mission accomplished.
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axewielder
Mar 23, 2004, 2:01 PM
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we have maybe 5 or 6 12s, most of which are actually 11s...
also 2 13s, one of which is actually an '11 (sry routesetters if u are reading this) and the other (completely on a horizontal roof) is actually a 13 (minus)
There's also a 14a on the roof, which I have no clue about, but it is definitely harder than the 13-
Our boulder problems have gone to maybe V10
basically, it can be a big ego boost to climb at my gym
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hoofers_andy
Mar 23, 2004, 2:25 PM
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One time, on my boulder in my dorm room, I was setting some new problems.... and then, i was like, i need to set like a V14, so i did. it was definiately a V14, no question about it. I had the first ascent, so that means i get to rate it. i bet all you gym rats wish you could be as good as me.
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chronicle
Mar 23, 2004, 2:30 PM
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Seen 13c at my gym. In our bouldering arena, V11.
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rmiller
Mar 23, 2004, 3:35 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: The hardest plastic sent. . . That would be the red route, for sure--or maybe the blue one. :lol: :lol: Curt
No damnit! It is the green one next to the red one. These old guys just can't see color anymore. :D
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miuralover
Mar 23, 2004, 4:05 PM
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In reply to: the final route in WC Kranj 2003 was considered about .13b and i think they stil had room to grow :wink:
More like 8b or 8b+. A 13b (8a) wouldn't do a lot to separate the field at a world cup. Everyone would flash it.
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igcuesta
Mar 23, 2004, 4:26 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: the final route in WC Kranj 2003 was considered about .13b and i think they stil had room to grow :wink: More like 8b or 8b+. A 13b (8a) wouldn't do a lot to separate the field at a world cup. Everyone would flash it.
Think so. The national spanish cup at Avilés had for the final a 8b+ (5.14a) route: a couple of climbers onsighted it. A week before the WC took place also in Aviles on the same structure, and the final was harder for sure.
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tonydevo
Mar 23, 2004, 4:37 PM
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Remember that video clip of Malc Smith in his room? He built a replica of 'Hubble' to train on. The "HPWASAF" problem was said to be the hardest plastic sent in the UK at the time, he only did it twice ever as I recall.
Gyms here sometimes set a .14 for training. A local guy built a 14b to suit his strengths and sent it while nobody else could come near sending.
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jsr
Mar 29, 2004, 3:59 AM
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Really hard routes are definitely possible. My highschool used to host comps every year on our wall (it was a good wall by any standards-donated by the wealthy father of a kid that liked climbing) and ppl would come from gyms in ontario and quebec to compete. I never thought to ask the routesetters name, but i believe the final route at the last comp i did there was 5.13a/b. It started at the bottom left of the wall and traversed diagonally up and to the right, then up a 30deg overhang that became a 45deg overhang which finally became a ~12-15ft roof, at the end of the roof you had to turn your body 90 degrees and climb towards the side of the roof at which point you had to get yourself out from under the roof and on to the final ~15ft of vertical wall. The guy that won the competition, sebastien (a kickass climber from a gym in quebec city), flashed it. Most other finalists fell at some point on the overhanging section and never even made it to the crux (which was getting around up on to the final vertical section followed by a couple really tough moves on miniscule holds). I remember the routesetter being very surprised seeing this sebastien kid flash his route. The second strongest climber fell off half-way through the roof on a hold we called the brain. It was this massive circular (about a foot in diameter) hold with about 20 single-digit pockets in it. They were all useless exceot for one in which you could hook your finger around on the inside. From just looking at it though, you couldn't tell which was the right hole. He fell off trying to find the right one. I remember thinking how strong this guy was too. He was doing one-armed chin-ups from full extension like they were nothing before the comp. Powerful or not, he came second to sebastien two years in a row.
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nthusiastj
Mar 29, 2004, 4:49 AM
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The BRC has a new 13 up right now. However, they usually only assign a + or - to the grades. I will tell you whether it is a 13c or d in about 5 years. When I can actually send it!
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fullahsiffur
Mar 29, 2004, 6:11 AM
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In reply to: sorry bro. that isnt a 13b/c. believe me, its not that f---ing hard. its like 12a
I must ask, did you stem? If so, you did not climb the route. Did you climb it clean, no rests, all the way?
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metrogroaz
Mar 29, 2004, 7:48 AM
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Our gym has a few .13's, i recently saw two guys getting off of them and saying "thirteen my ass, thats an eleven" to which the employee near them responded, "hahaha thats what i said" either way the ratings in the gym dont seem to really matter when you get outside cause multiple holds abound.
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gogo
Apr 14, 2004, 2:29 AM
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The hardest route we had at our gym was a 5.13a lead. Only one person in the gym could do it, and he was the one who set it. Started in a cave (our lead wall has a small cave), traverses the cave, comes out onto an overhang, four clips to top (approx. 40-50 feet high).
The hardest bouldering route actually marked is probably V6. There are harder ones, but we leave them unmarked.
We used to have a lot of routes at the 5.11b-5.12a range, but too many beginning climbers were complaining of difficulty, so now there are very few routes harder than 5.10, and the ones that are feel more like highball boulders.
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karmaklimber
Apr 14, 2004, 2:49 AM
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In reply to: Did you climb it clean, no rests, all the way?
What does resting have to do with climbing a route cleanly? Resting, not hangdogging.
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