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jsr
Mar 27, 2004, 10:07 PM
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I'm a finance student at mcgill. I used to climb a lot in highschool, but that ended when I went off to university in ontario, as there were no climbing walls and i didn't have the gear or car for outdoor. As it stands now, I have all the gear i need for indoor, including a rope (don't know if you need them at horizon roc).
Anyway, I've been wanting to start back up for a while now and I'm finally getting around to it. I haven't climbed in 6yrs, but I used to do 5.12 indoors and some 5.10/11 stuff at mt. orford and the pinnacle outdoors w/o much difficulty, so I'm hoping to get back to that level in a reasonable period of time. I'll probably wanna do lead once I get my strength/endurance back up.
I work in the day with school at night. The classes I'm taking right now are taught from the textbook so I can miss a few to climb ;p So my schedule until May will be from 7-11pm, mon-fri, plus several hours saturday and sunday on weekends. I'll probably make wed. and possibly monday as off days. Starting the second week of may, my schedule will be ~9:30-11pm mon-thu (unless my classes end-up being. On Fridays i'll be at the gym by ~6:30pm and probably won't leave till the gym closes. Weekends will be open.
That aside, there doesn't seem to be too much traffic on this site, so i don't know if i'll find a partner here. How easy is it to meet people at the gym? Do most people go with partners? Or do a lot of people go on their own and just boulder or climb with whomever they can find there? Lastly, is the gym crowded? The last time I went was 6-7yrs ago and from what i hear, climbing has become a lot more popular in that time. Oh and do you have to use gri-gris there or can you use your own belay device? I never did like the things...
So PM me if you're interested and thanks in advance if you answer any of my questions about the gym.
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genevieve
Mar 28, 2004, 5:04 AM
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Hi!
I do climb at horizon roc about 3-4 times a week. I would say that usually people do have a partner and a couple of them go there alone to boulder.
The gym is pretty crowdy on week's night and the week ends are kind of "familials"... You can use your own belay divices (ATC, grigri or the eight device, it's up to you).
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wonder1978
Mar 29, 2004, 12:52 AM
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I know that Horizon Roc is pretty crowded all week long in the evening. That's why I usually don't go there. I don't know how easy it would be to find a partner there with all the people waiting in line and staring at their shoes! But they probably have a billboard you can put your name on. I usually climb at Action Directe cause it's the closest to my place. If not, I'll be at Gym Vertical, the best gym in montreal for quality of routes and (especially) for its mellow atmosphere.
Good luck, finding a good partner is the hardest aspect of climbing.
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jsr
Mar 29, 2004, 5:43 AM
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meh, waiting in line? i guess that's not completely unexpected.. how long are these lines? I haven't been yet, still have a couple assignments to finish up, but i'll be going later in the week... Last time i went to HR, we had to wait for routes to free-up, but not very long; there definitely wasn't a line. It sounds like the boulders aren't too busy at least. That's good for loners like me i guess :P
I hadn't thought about this before posting, but since gyms are so busy it seems even more important to have a partner near your ability so you can both do the same routes. I suppose I should hold-off on the partner thing till im' in decent climbing shape and then hope to find someone near my ability level...
Anyway thanks for the replies and who knows, maybe we'll bump in to each other, Genevieve.
Later.
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genevieve
Mar 29, 2004, 2:43 PM
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In reply to: meh, waiting in line? i guess that's not completely unexpected.. how long are these lines? I haven't been yet, still have a couple assignments to finish up, but i'll be going later in the week... Last time i went to HR, we had to wait for routes to free-up, but not very long; there definitely wasn't a line. It sounds like the boulders aren't too busy at least. That's good for loners like me i guess :P I hadn't thought about this before posting, but since gyms are so busy it seems even more important to have a partner near your ability so you can both do the same routes. I suppose I should hold-off on the partner thing till im' in decent climbing shape and then hope to find someone near my ability level... Anyway thanks for the replies and who knows, maybe we'll bump in to each other, Genevieve. Later.
Hummm there's some exageration in here. There's no line-up at HR. The gym can be pretty crowded on week's evenings, but since there's the new section (HR is now almost the double in surface), it's not that bad. Since a couple of weeks, thursday nights seem to be less crowded ;-)
And the boulder is a good thing when you're alone. You'll probably end up by meeting new people and maybe find a new climbing partner.
If you have more question, don't hesitate ;-)
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jsr
Mar 29, 2004, 7:03 PM
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No more questions ;p Thanks again for your replies though. I've gotta say I'm really looking forward to climbing again.. It's amazing that I went so long without it, considering I used to be borderline-obsessive about it. I guess it's like anything else though, the longer you go without, the easier not having it becomes. Take care.
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ofer
Apr 5, 2004, 3:13 AM
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Hi,
I go climbing at Horizon-Roc and Allez-Up,
and can lead 5.10 on sport routes and 5.8-5.9 on trad.
I need partner and if you are intrested, we can meet up. We can start boldering (that can be fun too) and top-rope but I really need someone that can lead, so I hope that you intend to go back to lead climbing when you are ready. :?
BTW Allez-Up can be very crowded during the week, but since the new section at Horizon-Roc has opened, I find it much more easy to find available routes there.
Take care, Ofer :)
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banzai
Apr 5, 2004, 3:42 PM
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Hi Ofer,
I just read in a thread that you are looking for a climbing partner. I lead trad around 5.8-5.9 and I'm looking for a partner for some outdoors climbing around Montreal and hopefully in the Adirondaks. Trad, sport, aid, bouldering, gym, it's all good, but trad is what I prefer. I have all the gear. Let me know if you're interested! You can join me at:
banzai@cim.mcgill.ca
514-284-9435
Cheers,
Francois
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cliffhunger
Apr 5, 2004, 4:53 PM
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First, Horizon Roc, with its new section, is the best gym choice if you don't have partners.
It is quite big, and its bouldering facilities can satisfy you for a long time.
The only downside, which gets worse if you have any experience climbing anywhere else than at Horizon Roc (including outside), is that the staff is often annoying and their policies are strict and border-line ridiculous.
For instance, they teach people to do a standard hand-change while feeding slack to a leader. While it is certainly not a good way to efficiently feed slack, it can become dangerous because the leader will end up not having slack when he needs it.
While I can understand that the gym could teach it for toprope, where it wouldn't pose a threat and teach newbies to never move their hand on the belayer side of the rope, it is an unacceptable way to belay on lead.
People teaching that simply don't even understand why you have to do a hand change while taking slack. These idiots have even warned lots of experienced climbers to give slack "their way".
Finally, instead of posting on a message board that you will be at HR at some point, and ask every stranger if they are the guy or gal from the message board who wanted to share an intimate belaying experience, why don't you simply talk to people and ask them for a belay. I don't think someone ever said no to me. If people are unfriendly (which I doubt, but at Horizon Roc, you never know), it's their loss.
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ofer
Apr 5, 2004, 6:51 PM
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I agree with cliffhunger. This can be sometimes very anoying. There is one guy there that really pissed me off. When I belay on lead, I hold the free side of the rope with one hand and the other hand is on the leader side, so I can give her/him a fast slack if yhey need it (dyno move, jump, clipping). This guy told me that I should put my two hands on the free side. I feel that I need to be fast and ready for the leader, and not hold them back when they need fast slack, this is true especialy in sport and gym climbing. This guy is a kid, and I am climbing for more than ten years now. I think that sometimes it is just some kind of show-off or a kid that enjoys the power that is in his hands. :x
But except for that, I enjoy climbing at Horizon Roc very much. 8)
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genevieve
Apr 5, 2004, 7:38 PM
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J'ai fait mon cours de lead chez HR et jamais on ne m'a demandé de garder les deux mains sur le brin de vie. J'ai toujours une main sur le brin de vie et l'autre main sur la partie qui va vers mon grimpeur... ainsi, je suis toujours prête à donner du mou. Je met mes deux mains sur le brin de vie seulement lorsque mon grimpeur est a sec, ou suite à une chute. C'est ainsi qu'on me l'a enseigné.
Je ne sais pas si j'avais bien compris ce que vous disiez, si non, pourriez vous réexpliquer ce problème d'enseignement en français SVP.
Et oui, ils sont strictes, mais faite chummy chummy avec les gars de plancher et je vous garanti qu'il ne vous ferons pas trop chier.
Et celui qui était le plus à cheval sur les ptits détails (Phil Wiseman) est parti ;-) (dommage d'ailleurs, mais bon, c'était pas mal lui le plus Mr. Sécurité).
Sorry for this post in french, but it's soooo much easier for me.
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ofer
Apr 5, 2004, 8:12 PM
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I am sorry that my French is not so good (my English is not perfect as well :? ), but from your message I think that you understood mine. It might be that It is only that guy that think that we should belay with two hands on the free side all the time (I understand that you did a lead course there and they tought you to belay like I do: one hand on the free side and one hand on the climber side). Maybe I had to go and tell it to one of the people in charge there but I did not do that (I did not want to give him trobles) but I might do that if he tells me that again. But you right that there are also other guys that are very nice :) . Still there is a problem there (other friends of mine had bad experiences with some of the guys there), and I think that the people in charge there should check those guys better before they hire them.
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aklimerguy
Apr 5, 2004, 8:23 PM
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How the hell do you want to belay someone leading with 2 hands on the "free side of the rope"?
You probably misunderstood what he told you, it makes no sense...
Oh, and for the employees being strict...I use to work there, and you have NO choice, or the big bad Maria (the owner) will be on your case... Try to take it easy on them, eventhough some of them can get annoying.
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cliffhunger
Apr 5, 2004, 8:38 PM
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You were taught right, but it doesn't mean some teachers are incompetent.
To teach beginning leaders to give slack that way is dangerous and shows that the teacher doesn't know his stuff.
I think this is sad, because Horizon Roc also is the gym that gathers most of the beginners and gives most of the courses in Montreal.
They have a responsibility while creating such a volume of new climbers to at least make sure their teachers are ALL competent.
Many of the staff are on a power trip, and it is quite obvious.
Remember that lots of people work there, and a lot of them are great.
When someone does something dangerous, you have the responsibility to make him/her understand that it is dangerous. It is also a good thing if employees who make remarks about a certain climber's craft can at least explain to him in a gentle manner why it should be done in another way.
Some things can be done multiple ways, so you better know your stuff before you criticize someone.
Their certifications are also lengthy and unfriendly.
B
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ofer
Apr 5, 2004, 8:47 PM
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No, I am sure that I understood him very well because I tried to argue with him but he insisted and did not leave me untill I have put the other hand on the free side as well. And he did not wait untill I will finish my belay, the whole argue (and I promise you that I was gentle with him) was taking place during the time that I was still blaying, which makes it dangerous and even more unaccepted. As I said, usually those guys are nice and if it is an experience one, you could ask thaem for recommendations on routes. I am sorry if those guys get hard time in Horizon Roc, I used to work for a short time at Allez Up and I must say that they where very kind to me and I had good time working there.
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e_wire
Apr 5, 2004, 8:48 PM
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I've been climbing at HR, Allez-up, Action Direct and CEGEP André-Laurendeau...
Yes HR is huge - Yes staff is VERY annoying - This is why I don't go there.
For me climbing is also a social gathering where you have fun.
Best place, in my opinion, is Allez-up. Fresh routes (and nice routes) every week. Friendly athmosphere and very cool and relaxed staff.
My friends and I climb every Tue and Thu, you can join us anytime.
Finally, HR grades are... way too easy. Hell, I can do 5.12a there no problem. Then I go to Val-Da and am limited to 5.11 (max!). Allez-up gives you more realistic grades... not Kamouraska grades!
Have fun... wherever you decide to go.
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e_wire
Apr 5, 2004, 8:54 PM
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En passant Geneviève, c'est toujours plus facile de devenir Chummy-chummy avec les gars de plancher quand t'es une fille et qu'ils te cruisent! :wink:
Étant un mec, disons que c'était plus hardus... p-e était-ce du à mon air bête habituel! :shock:
Ciao
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wonder1978
Apr 5, 2004, 9:09 PM
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This is gonna be brutal, but I'm not climbing to be politically correct. HR staff have been, from my past experience (which goes back about 8 years), unfriendly, unwelcoming, unhelpful, annoying, intrusive, clueless, and downright harassing. My solution to this: told them to f*ck off, packed my bags, and left the place never to return. I advise anyone who ever had to deal with similar attitude to do the same. Don't bother complaining, just go elsewhere. Even better, complain here, that's what forums are for after all, and it makes for good reading. Who cares if they supposedly have the biggest, baddest climbing Gym in Canada. I certainly ain't making a career out of climbing plastic. Are you?
And anyway, plastic season is over, let's argue about all the nice crags we shouldn't climb at cause they're supposedly closed, and the reasons why we'll keep on climbing them anyway. Should make for a fun topic. Anyone to start the thread?
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shakylegs
Apr 5, 2004, 9:26 PM
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Strange. 3-4 years ago, I did just that: got annoyed with the staff and all their weird policies, and their under-rated routes. Started going back a few weeks ago, the chick and I are pretty much left alone. The route ratings are now more realistic--stilll easier than Allez-Up--but none of this bullcrap 5.12 ego-fellating walkups.
I think we're pretty lucky in Montreal to have several gyms, and each of them with their style.
And, as for HR staff? Let's not forget that one of them was teaching someone how to belay lead, and didn't pay attention to the climber, who fell and shattered (amputation) his ankles. So take anything they tell you with a grain of salt. One chick even asked me the other day what a Reverso was, and whether it was new on the market. (No, I'm not kidding.)
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e_wire
Apr 5, 2004, 11:01 PM
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Are you serious... someone felt during their lead course and broke their ankle to amputation... Didn't know that... Men, this is bad.
I agree, if you like there, good for you. If not also good for you! It's all a mather of choice and Montreal has lots of it!
Now, if the weather can warm up a bit, we wont have to debate about plastic anymore...
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shakylegs
Apr 5, 2004, 11:42 PM
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Yup. It was around 4 years ago, the details are sketchy. The climber got to the top and leaned back. Either the belayer wasn't strong enough or wasn't paying attention, but the climber fell to the concrete. Since this stuff gets amplified (bouche à oreille), I heard that both feet had to be amputated, but take it for what it is. Made me appreciate the gravel at Allez-Up.
But, hey, HR lets me tie in with a bowline, so I'm not complaining.
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cliffhunger
Apr 6, 2004, 12:42 AM
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I remember hearing about that incident.
I didn't hear about the amputation part of it, but I remember that the guy wasn't gonna climb again.
If the boss is on your back for the wrong reasons, you should tell him.
Horizon Roc has always worked because of their position as a welcoming gym for beginners. I dunno if they have been close to the regular or stronger climber's hearts in the last years (boulderers excepted since they opened the new section).
It is difficult to have a gym that satisfies both a beginner/occasionnal and regular/hardcore group. Since they got bigger, I think the atmosphere has relaxed a bit, and they can finally accomodate their clients correctly.
I didn't have any problems with the staff personnally last time I went, on the contrary. I was only told by several people of their belaying "advice" and I went through one of their "simply marvelously pleasant" certifications a year and a half ago.
It's still an excellent gym.
The routes were mostly unrated in the harder range (didn't see a single 5.12), and I think it's a good thing. Most of their clientele won't climb that level, and the few that will can simply ask the staff about the grade, or make their own opinion.
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genevieve
Apr 6, 2004, 1:14 AM
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Ouin... j'en suis à me demander si je vais reprendre mon abonnement là...
Et a propos des voies qui sont trop faciles... Êtes vous en train de me dire que mon 5.9 ne vaut rien? Je rush au max tellement les voies sont "reachy" chez HR...
/me s'en va déprimer.
Aklimerguy... je travaillais aussi chez Horizon Roc... PM moi pour savoir si on se connait ;-)
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wonder1978
Apr 6, 2004, 1:55 AM
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Genevieve, cheer up, you should know better.
Gym ratings mean absolutely nothing, sh*t, nada, rien pen toute.
Did I hear something about Allez Up with realist grades? You must be joking! Last time I went there, friend of mine who climbs 5.12 regularly, and has in different countries, on different continents (so don't bring up that Orford ratings are soft crap), could barely get through a TR 5.9 at Allez Up. I mean come on, they're completely off the chart, like we're talking about two different worlds here!!! I know ratings will differ from one region to another, but seriously, their ratings weren't even close to being reasonable. I can't imagine anyone leading 5.8 at Allez Up that wouldn't feel at home in any outside 5.11 in Quebec.
so cheer up Gen, struggling with 9s over there, you should be good for a few 12s at Kamou or Rumney this summer.
Cheers :wink:
ps. slight exageration only for dramatization purposes (we're on RC.com folks)
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e_wire
Apr 6, 2004, 2:15 AM
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Gen... les cotes c'est une chose... la tête c'en est une autre. A-Up a des cotes hard et HR des cotes softs. Base toi simplement entre les deux. Pis si tu t'amuses, c'est ca qui compte... non?
Quand à savoir si tu devrais prendre ta passe là-bas... eee... essaye d'autres gyms. Si c'est HR qui te plait toujours et que ca bien situé pour toi, vas-y!
Ciao
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