munky
Nov 29, 2007, 10:46 PM
Post #26 of 26
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Registered: Apr 26, 2006
Posts: 358
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On PGR you can get gear in the roof but from there it is a grovel and I'm unable to stop and place gear. I was on the face within one hand move and 2 foot movements from a jug when I peeled and I whipped under the roof (15 feet or so) and stopped the impact with my right heel. Fuck, why couldn't I just pulled through. Instead, I've been drinking every night and eating like a fat kid home from a weight loss camp. To the right of PGR are a bunch of good leads. Triple Treat, Springboard, Anal Clenching Adventures and a little farther right as you head towards Fern Falls there is an 11 that is really good and a roof crack that is awesome also. As far as directly left of Portley's I haven't been on any of those. If you walk in from Fern Buttress I would recommend getting on Two Bag Face. It's an awesome gear protected face. A good warm up for the body and head. I've been on few others can't remember the names and kinda shady on how to describe where they are. The climbing between Fern Buttress and Fern Falls is pretty good. I've been meaning to give Welcome to Conditioning a go all season but I always walked past it because I wasn't warmed up, partners, or another objective. Have you been on it? The wall is one of the most gorgeous I've seen at the New.
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