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talons05
May 10, 2004, 4:02 PM
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I have a trip coming up July 19th, and I'm looking for beta on the Lamb's slide to summit Long's. I'm also interested in any other moderate snow routes that might still be in season during this time... Any beta would be appreciated, thanks!
A.W.
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agrauch
May 10, 2004, 6:04 PM
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The most obvious choices are to climb Lamb's Slide to Broadway, traverse the ledge and climb either the Notch or Kiener's. A lesser known and much easier option is to take Lamb's Slide to the Loft and follow Clark's Arrow to the summit. Lamb's Slide is fairly trivial as far as a snow/AI route is concerned. If you decide on Kiener's or the Notch, Alexander's Chimney or Stettner's are great moderate rock routes to Broadway.
All the routes are documented in the various 14er guide books.
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flamer
May 10, 2004, 7:06 PM
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Climbing Lambs slide would be a very bad idea.
Due to several drought years in a row lambs slide has become a VERY DANGEROUS route. The amount of rock fall coming down it everyday is almost unbelievable. I have several friends who had near misses.
While climbing on the Diamond I couldn't believe the rocks I saw coming off of Lambs slide all day.
You should reconsider climbing this route for a few years.
Maybe look at Dream weaver.
Hope you find something good to climb!!!
josh
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petro
May 10, 2004, 7:06 PM
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If you are in the area, you may want to check some climbs out in the Indian Peaks, just south of RMNP. Access and approaches are about the same as RMNP, and you can get backcountry permits in Boulder at the National Forest Ranger Station. St. Mary's Glacier, a bit off the I-70 corridor is another option, with about a 5 minute approach.
http://www.climbingboulder.com has a nice slection of these routes listed.
Enjoy!
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allarounder
May 10, 2004, 7:08 PM
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is alexanders still in? Not what I would call a moderate snow route. LOL.
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jsj42
May 10, 2004, 8:19 PM
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In reply to: Climbing Lambs slide would be a very bad idea. Due to several drought years in a row lambs slide has become a VERY DANGEROUS route. The amount of rock fall coming down it everyday is almost unbelievable.
This really depends on weather conditions, but Josh is right to advise against it. Right now or earlier it might be safer to climb it, but I reckon by mid-July it will be very dangerous.
I was out there last year around mid July climbing on the Diamond and right around sun-hit (noon) I watched many blocks tumble down the lamb's slide - including one the size of a refridgerator.
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powen
May 10, 2004, 8:33 PM
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Just out of curiosity, generally when does Lamb's come back in for the winter? A buddy and I were pondering doing Lamb's/Notch next winter...
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maldaly
May 10, 2004, 9:53 PM
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I guided up there for 4 years and have probably done Keiner's 50 times. I haven't been up there in a few years so treat this post with the dis-respect it deserves.
Generally speaking we used to consider Lamb's Slide safe as long as there was spring snow on it. Once that melted to year-old ice or neve, we'd find another route. Safest bet is to hug the left side or climb the rock rib on the left, then cut straight across at B-way height. Even in dry years (Yeah we had them in the 70's and 80's, too), Keiner's was negotiable 'till it was a bulletproof ice flow.
Notes:
There are 2 tricky spots: Getting off B-way at the Notch Coulior and getting from the top of the Giant Staircase onto the summit scree. Read the guides, look on climbingboulder.com and follow your nose.
Good luck,
Malcolm
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soccer_fan
May 10, 2004, 10:48 PM
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Its looking like I will be in RMNP from the last week in June till the end of the first week in July - what condition are the Flying Dutchman, Notch Couloir, and Dream Weaver in? Also what guidebook besides www.climbingboulder.com would have info on the Indian Peaks or St Mary's glacier?
thanks
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mdude
May 10, 2004, 11:32 PM
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Jee wiz folks. Lets set the story straight.
Lambs Slide is about 1000 feet and it is a year-round snow and ice field. In the late summer and fall it is ice, the rest of the time it is snow. Nothing technical about it in the late spring and early summer, just good corn snow for feet. I skied it last summer, rad at about 60 degrees. Lambs Slide only takes you to Broadway. To the top you will have to take Notch couloir or Kiener's. Lambs Slide doesn't go to the Loft in any direct manner. Kiener's is great summer climb. Two 5.4 pitches then scramble to the top. A+
The rock danger that was mentioned is over stated and a little wrong. The rock fall is coming from the Notch Couloir and landing on Lambs Slide. This happens in the afternoon during the late summer and fall. Climbing in the morning.
The park has other route that are snow climbs. Dream Weaver (not hard), Y Couloir on Ypsilon and many others. The snow is melting fast this year.
MD
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ebelay
May 11, 2004, 12:12 AM
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Speaking of RMNP, when does Spearhead's North Ridge typically come in condition (dry rock)? How about the approach? I'd like to get up there mid-june. Is that too ambitious? Being a transplanted desert rat, I'm still getting up to speed with anticipating alpine conditions.
Thanks,
Eric
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ebelay
May 11, 2004, 4:43 PM
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Bump - Any beta on Spearhead?
Thanks.
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flamer
May 11, 2004, 7:40 PM
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In reply to: The rock danger that was mentioned is over stated and a little wrong. The rock fall is coming from the Notch Couloir and landing on Lambs Slide. This happens in the afternoon during the late summer and fall. Climbing in the morning.
Lets get a couple of things straight.
#1 The last 3 years I have seen with my own eyes the rock fall coming down lambs slide- and I'm not talking late August- more like early July.
#2 There was an area RIGHT DOWN THE MIDDLE of this "year round" snow and ice field that was completly snow and ice-less. An area approximately the 20 ft across.
#3 When I climb up Mills glacier a 2 summers ago to climb a diamond route it was almost gone. Be aware that in the last few years colorado has experienced a drought- Stuff that is usually considered "year round" hasn't been lately.
#4 You're new here, Don't be a jerk.
josh
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alpnclmbr1
May 11, 2004, 9:36 PM
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In reply to: Speaking of RMNP, when does Spearhead's North Ridge typically come in condition (dry rock)? How about the approach? I'd like to get up there mid-june. Is that too ambitious? Being a transplanted desert rat, I'm still getting up to speed with anticipating alpine conditions.
Spearhead should be fine in mid june.
The approach has several climbers shortcuts that are easy to miss in the dark. If you look at a topo it is pretty straight forward where they go. This would be a great use for a gps.
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flamer
May 12, 2004, 2:47 AM
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In reply to: How about the approach? I'd like to get up there mid-june.
Mid june should be fine.
Keep in mind though that you will have to take the shuttle bus, Thus eliminating the true Alpine start.
If you plan to go CTC in a day(which is totally possible and even recommended!) Keep in m,ind that you won't be able to get the earliest of start's. Check with the park concerning shuttle times...I THINK the earliest is 6am.
Good luck and HAVE FUN!!
josh
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mdude
May 12, 2004, 6:25 AM
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Flamer
Thanks for getting the story just right. So really, thanks for cutting on me and making you look so good and knowledgeable.
Thanks for being so upstanding and the emotional guide on the forum.
MD
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flamer
May 12, 2004, 1:13 PM
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In reply to: Flamer Thanks for getting the story just right. So really, thanks for cutting on me and making you look so good and knowledgeable. Thanks for being so upstanding and the emotional guide on the forum. MD
You're welcome.
If you reread your original post I think you'll notice that the old saying "what goes around, comes around" will be used well.
josh
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talons05
May 12, 2004, 2:26 PM
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Ok, so I haven't been able to find anything on "Dream Weaver" Aaargh... I'm just going to do the chimney to broadway and then do Keiners or something. Are there any moderate snow routes that will still be in season anywhere in CO?
A.W.
P.S. Thanks for all the info everyone.
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allarounder
May 12, 2004, 3:31 PM
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http://climbingboulder.com/ice/db/rocky_mountain_national_park/long_s_peak_mt__meeker_cirque/dreamweaver.html
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atg200
May 12, 2004, 7:25 PM
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dreamweaver probably won't be much fun in mid to late july. the snow climbing is really better earlier in the year.
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soccer_fan
May 12, 2004, 8:09 PM
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How many pickets or flukes are typically taken on routes like Lamb's slide or Dreamweaver?
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helmut
May 12, 2004, 8:48 PM
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In reply to: How many pickets or flukes are typically taken on routes like Lamb's slide or Dreamweaver?
None, Most people just climb Lamb's slide with crampons and ice axe, as for dreamweaver (which I've never done) I believe that most of the cruxes are protected by rock gear.
To note, rock fall from the notch couloir does not hit lambs slide, it funnels down more towards the stettner's ledges unless there is a really strong westerly wind that would blow the rock over to the lambs slide. To note, rock fall danger in that area is pretty high, best bet is to climb super early and get above everyone while it's still good and frozen. Most of the rock fall is caused by people kicking them off of Broadway, tread lightly, there's folks climbing down there. With that being said the Kiener's Route on Long's is classic and should not be missed. Alexander's Chimney is probably best done as an ice climb but it can be climbed in spring/summer but it's not too much fun.
A good moderate snow route (AI2/3) in the Indian Peaks is the Skywalker Couloir on S. Arapahoe peak.
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tomclimbs
May 12, 2004, 9:10 PM
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In reply to: To note, rock fall from the notch couloir does not hit lambs slide, it funnels down more towards the stettner's ledges.....
Just a note on the above post. This is not true. I was there when a HUGE rockfall expelled itself from the notch. We said - wow that was cool, until we saw that a truckload of microwave sized blocks were hurtling down lambs slide right at us! We duck for cover while the blocks exploded all around us. we were at the base of Lambs slide getting ready to head up to do Stettners. we ended up getting the hell out of there. Of course this was couple of years ago when it was all falling apart. I am sure it is better now...
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timstich
May 12, 2004, 10:24 PM
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Any word on what Lamb's Slide is like this week/month? A current report would be useful, as a friend of mine plans to use Lamb's to access Broadway to do Keiner's at the end of the month. Seems like last week's snow should be fairly settled by now. Is it still the rock bowling alley it was two years ago?
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timstich
May 12, 2004, 11:30 PM
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When my friend arrives, I'll ask around again what conditions look like. Then for alternative routes. I figured you were getting snowed on skibby up in Winter Park. They showed the temps on the weather last night. We are getting rain down here in Lakewood. Oh and, I will not be joining them in any case. I'm waiting for later in the summer for my own modest plans.
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soccer_fan
May 13, 2004, 5:59 AM
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Not to run it into the ground, but are flukes/pickets really needed for couloirs and the like or mostly just for glacier crossings?
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reno
May 13, 2004, 6:10 AM
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In reply to: Flamer Thanks for getting the story just right. So really, thanks for cutting on me and making you look so good and knowledgeable. Thanks for being so upstanding and the emotional guide on the forum. MD
mdude:
You posted crappy advice. Josh called you on it.
If that is a source of distress or embarassment for you, then you have some growing to do.
Flamer is a heck of a good fellow. I called him last week to get some beta on Hallet's, and he told me what I needed (not wanted, but NEEDED) to hear... ain't a lot of people willing to be the "bad guy" when it comes to giving advice.
So chill, eh?
Get over it and move on.
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talons05
May 13, 2004, 3:28 PM
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Thanks for the link, that was helpful. Just how crowded is this area in summer?
A.W.
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luigi
May 13, 2004, 4:40 PM
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Timstich,
I was on Lambslide last Sunday with a couple of friends, it was good snow. At this time of year there is is hardly any rock fall, we went on to Broadway for a hundred feet or so, because we are planning to do the notch and wanted to check snow conditions. It was all pretty stable, but after this week, who knows. We went all the way up Lambslide no problems. On the way down the slide their was a guy coming up. He ended up soloing the Notch. So conditions were pretty good for him on Broadway and the Notch.
Luis
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timstich
May 13, 2004, 7:01 PM
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Thanks for the update, Luis. Glad to hear you had a good climb.
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helmut
May 25, 2004, 8:03 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: To note, rock fall from the notch couloir does not hit lambs slide, it funnels down more towards the stettner's ledges..... Just a note on the above post. This is not true. I was there when a HUGE rockfall expelled itself from the notch. We said - wow that was cool, until we saw that a truckload of microwave sized blocks were hurtling down lambs slide right at us! We duck for cover while the blocks exploded all around us. we were at the base of Lambs slide getting ready to head up to do Stettners. we ended up getting the hell out of there. Of course this was couple of years ago when it was all falling apart. I am sure it is better now...
Good point near the base of the lambs slide couloir which is near the base of stettner's, the chimney, kor's door, etc. the rockfall from the notch will spill down into that common area. I was thinking of being up the lambs slide a bit more, good correction to note. thanks.
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helmut
May 25, 2004, 8:07 PM
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In reply to: Thanks for the link, that was helpful. Just how crowded is this area in summer? A.W.
If you climb on a weekend there will usually be at least a couple of parties on each route, even if you get lucky and no one is climbing your particular route you need to be concerned of people above you on different routes knocking rocks down on you. The best bet is to climb midweek and start early and don't kick stuff down on me, I don't like getting up early.
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timstich
May 25, 2004, 8:16 PM
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My friends report that they will be going up next Tuesday, which sounds ideal as it is after the Memorial Day rush.
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coomer
May 30, 2004, 2:53 PM
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[quote="flamer"]In reply to: If you plan to go CTC in a day(which is totally possible and even recommended!) Keep in m,ind that you won't be able to get the earliest of start's. Check with the park concerning shuttle times...I THINK the earliest is 6am. Good luck and HAVE FUN!! josh
Come June 21st, the shuttle will start running at 5am. It's running at 6 am starting this week. Was just up on Hallet's chimney this past week (shuttle left at 7 am) Got hit by a storm half way up... sucked ass.
Cheers
e
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timstich
May 31, 2004, 3:03 AM
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We hiked up to Arapahoe Pass today, which was a windy, snowy, cloud-filled maelstrom. Then went over to the Long's Peak ranger station and talked to some really cool old school guys who had been climbing Long's in the late 50s. They pulled out a 3-ring binder of photos showing various photos of Keiner's and also the descent using Camel's couloir. A fun visit.
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