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codefrog
May 20, 2009, 7:33 PM
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Thank you! I have been doing it right all along then.
After reading this part of his step 6 I was unsure:
6. "...Then, put the rope into the belay device so that the rope going to the climber is coming out the top of the slot, and the brake side of the rope is coming out of the bottom..."
When I read the above it made me wonder if my picture isn't what he intended. I've always belayed the way your red line shows. I now understand his top/bottom was in orientation to the top of the slot being the non-ribbed side and the bottom meaning the ribbed side.
I'm glad I did ask this. Thanks a ton! Your artwork was perfect and picture clears up the ability to misread step 6 on his instructions.
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jamincan
May 20, 2009, 7:42 PM
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codefrog wrote: I now understand his top/bottom was in orientation to the top of the slot being the non-ribbed side and the bottom meaning the ribbed side.
I believe that the top/bottom is more in reference to yourself than to grooves on the ATC. The ATC-XP can be used in two modes - high friction or low friction. When it is oriented as shown in the photo, it is in high friction mode. If you were to flip it around so that the rope runs through in essentially the same way (brake strand away from you, climber strand closer to you), but the grooves faced toward you, it would be in a lower friction mode.
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codefrog
May 20, 2009, 7:51 PM
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Oh! Geez that makes sense. Hadn't even thought of that.  
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jt512
May 20, 2009, 9:48 PM
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codefrog wrote: Your artwork was perfect and picture clears up the ability to misread step 6 on his instructions.
More like the inability to read it correctly.
Jay
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codefrog
May 20, 2009, 10:42 PM
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Okay fine. If that's what makes you sleep warm and fuzzy then I lack the ability to read it correctly. 
I work in source code for a living. Math and crazy symbols mean a lot more to me than English. I find American English meanders even more. I've read all your posts on kilonewtons, falls, rope and gear mechanics and followed them just fine. I'm the last person on earth (except maybe my wife) that is surprised by my ability to over complicate something simple.
I'm more than happy to have an inability to read something correctly if that means that in the end I understand your meaning it's all good.
I'm 2 months new to climbing and I'd rather ask really dumb questions than go "splat" especially where my kids might be involved.
HOOYAH!
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Johnny_Fang
May 20, 2009, 10:55 PM
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jt512 wrote: codefrog wrote: Your artwork was perfect and picture clears up the ability to misread step 6 on his instructions. More like the inability to read it correctly. Jay
Classic Jay.
I actually put this thread into my 'Jay response modeling program' and it spat out Jay's predicted response as: 'More like your inability to read instructions correctly.' It looks like my residual is quite low on this one, quite low.
Predicted response to the current post?
"*Plonk*"
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codefrog
May 20, 2009, 11:10 PM
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Yeah it is classic Jay. I've read enough of his posts to spot it and truth be told I was waiting for it. But he's technical and show me any technical person that doesn't firmly believe he's infallible and that's it's all "User Error" and I'll show you a sandwich slicer at Subway.
Oh well. I'm actually heading out with the kids right now to to increase my gym rat status and I'm ever hopeful my wife will run out of yard work projects soon so that I can drag everyone into the hills (with an experienced climber of course).
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vawallflower
May 29, 2009, 3:11 PM
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Great information, I have been studying belay techniques quite a bit in order to be the best belay slave on the planet. This is the best post I've found so far. My master will be pleased!
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desertwanderer81
May 29, 2009, 8:10 PM
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[quote "jt512"][quote]thank you SO much for #6, i dont' know how many times i see people i know putting the 'biner through the tie in points, they say 'it'll be stronger, there's more of it there, blah blah blah' they built a belay loop for a reason, and i'm sure they named it the BELAY LOOP for a reason too!! as far as always stand while belaying, thats not that big of a deal i think, except right at the start of a climb, other than that, as long as your paying attention and can belay just as well, go ahead and sit.[/quote]
Can you dynamically belay while seated? With a grigri? Can you dodge a falling rock while seated? I think it's a really big deal.
-Jay[/quote]
You can dodge rock fall and dynamically belay at a belay station on the second+ pitch of a climb?
You really are a climbing god ;)
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jt512
May 29, 2009, 8:14 PM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: [quote "jt512"][quote]thank you SO much for #6, i dont' know how many times i see people i know putting the 'biner through the tie in points, they say 'it'll be stronger, there's more of it there, blah blah blah' they built a belay loop for a reason, and i'm sure they named it the BELAY LOOP for a reason too!! as far as always stand while belaying, thats not that big of a deal i think, except right at the start of a climb, other than that, as long as your paying attention and can belay just as well, go ahead and sit.[/quote] Can you dynamically belay while seated? With a grigri? Can you dodge a falling rock while seated? I think it's a really big deal. -Jay[/quote] You can dodge rock fall and dynamically belay at a belay station on the second+ pitch of a climb? You really are a climbing god ;)
Well, I can dynamically belay at a belay station on the "second+" pitch of a climb, so I guess I'm just a demigod.
Jay
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desertwanderer81
May 29, 2009, 8:39 PM
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If I am on a gear belay station, I personally try not to move around too much so the cams don't walk....plus half the time depending on where you're climbing, you can't even see your climber :p
I am entirely open to the idea however that I am not moving out of ignorance.
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jt512
May 29, 2009, 9:36 PM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: If I am on a gear belay station, I personally try not to move around too much so the cams don't walk....plus half the time depending on where you're climbing, you can't even see your climber :p I am entirely open to the idea however that I am not moving out of ignorance.
You neither need to be able to see your partner nor move around to give a dynamic belay.
Jay
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