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kalcario
Sep 2, 2004, 4:20 AM
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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*I have to say the single best sport climb I've done is golith at the enchanted tower. its awesome.*
I need to go back and do that one...
Sport - Privilege at Ceuse
Single Pitch Trad - Crack A Go Go, Yosemite
Multi PitchTrad - The Nose
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timstich
Sep 2, 2004, 4:32 AM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2003
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It's only two pitches, but it's probably the hardest to beat for fun and exposure.
Aguja Celo Rey on the Spires in Potrero Chico
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yanqui
Sep 2, 2004, 3:22 PM
Post #53 of 126
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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 1559
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One of the most fun days I ever had climbing was doing Objectivo Luna in the Frey, Argentina about 6 years ago with my wife. Often intimidated by longer routes in the mountains, Gaby was in the zone that day and we just had a blast climbing together. The route is certainly beautiful and was established by the legendary Swiss alpinist Michel Piola. The pitch by pitch:
Pitch 1: 5.9 layback
Pitch 2: A rope stretching 60 meter 5.10c with a little bit of everything
Pitch 3: Steep, juggy 5.10a trad face
Pitch 4: 4th class.
Pitch 5: Steep 5.9 fist crack to an elegant knife-edged ridge/arete
Pitch 6: Bolted face with a 5.10d roof
Pitch 7: Bouldery 10a followed by an easy slab to a spectacular summit.
I'm also suprised I haven't seen anyone mention Washington State's 6 pitch Outer Space (kudos to Fred Beckey). Another super fun day in the mountains, the crux pitch (rated 5.8+) was my first honest-to-goodness 5.9 onsight, maybe 23 or 24 years ago. I probably repeated this route 10 times, and it's certainly worth repeating again, although I hear you can run into a few too many other climbers at Snow Creek Wall now-a-days. 20 or so years ago it was a treat if you happened to see other climbers there.
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noell
Sep 2, 2004, 3:36 PM
Post #54 of 126
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Registered: Apr 17, 2003
Posts: 313
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Okay, I am going to have several answers to this question.
Routes that I have led that are my fav:
Sport : Finally got to onsight Rico Suave a few weeks ago (pardon my spelling! is that right?) at Kaymoore in West VA. Sweet little sport route! Loved it!
Trad: Edge of a Dream at Ship Rock, North Carolina. A little short, but not lacking at all in exposure! Juggy as all get out, great gear, and excellent view!
Routes that I have followed/not yet redpointed/TR'd that are my fav:
Sport: Mo Betta Holds at Kaymoore in West VA. Super juggy (trashcan lid sized holds, I believe is the description of this one) and completely horizontal for several moves. Gotta work on this baby!
Trad: Lincove Lullabye at Ship Rock, North Carolina. I LOVED this route! I fell off the crux and took my first fall that was caught by gear (my partner at the top with his bomber anchor was so awesome). So much exposure, beautiful rock, incredible moves. It was good to learn first hand I could trust the gear, so I didn't mind the fall, and besides I was on TR. But man that move was tricky and powerful! Can't wait to get back on it!
Also Trad: I will have to agree with J_ung on this one, ZOO VIEW. It's next on my lead list. ;-) Gorgeous, intimidating, no-way a 5.7 til you get your hands around those jugs!
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tripperjm
Sep 2, 2004, 4:03 PM
Post #55 of 126
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Registered: Jun 7, 2002
Posts: 10650
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The best route I've climbed, just happens to be the BEST and most well known rockclimb in the world, is the "NOSE". I have done it 5 or 6 times and will likely do it several more times before I die.
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basecamp
Sep 2, 2004, 4:17 PM
Post #56 of 126
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Registered: Aug 4, 2004
Posts: 80
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The funnest routes I've climbed are tied between Gossamer in the Rushmore rocks area of SD. That is just a fun lyback, its short and only has 3 bolts and a 5.7, but its just a fun climb.
I also like a climb called "The B!tch" at Palisades State park in SD here... its only a 5.8, and its a top rope, but its a crazy akward dihedral that you have to use a lot of different moves on, but it again is just a really really fun climb!!! :)
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vivalargo
Sep 2, 2004, 10:41 PM
Post #57 of 126
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 1512
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Stoner's Highway, 5.10c, Black Rose, 5.11c/d, Mother Earth, 5.12b, A4 (outrageous positioning, rarely done), all on Middle Cathedral.
For pure crack climbs, Good Book and New Dimensions (both 5.11a) are pretty damn fine.
JL
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tattooed_climber
Sep 3, 2004, 5:40 AM
Post #58 of 126
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Registered: Dec 13, 2003
Posts: 4838
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my first gear lead of course...
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russoggi
Sep 3, 2004, 9:23 AM
Post #59 of 126
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Registered: Aug 19, 2003
Posts: 15
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*** Saxon 210 Feet HVS 4c,4c Carn Kenidjack, Cornwall North Coast
*** Diagonal 260 Feet, HVS 5a,5a,5a,4c Dinas Mot, North Wales
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brutusofwyde
Sep 3, 2004, 5:11 PM
Post #60 of 126
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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Hairline on the East Face of Mt. Whitney, originally rated V 5.10c A3.
Just finished replacing anchors on this route 4 days ago, and was as awestruck as when I first topped out on it 17 years ago.
Now rated at V, 5.10d C2F, the route is within reach of many backcountry climbers seeking a big wall adventure in the wilderness.
Brutus
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topher
Sep 3, 2004, 5:17 PM
Post #61 of 126
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Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 477
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i have 2 both in squamish one blazing saddles... its 4 pitches and goes at 10b amazing climb.. and the second was the grand wall also amazing 11a... i would recomend both!!! do it do it
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jimthespider
Sep 3, 2004, 5:26 PM
Post #62 of 126
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Registered: Jul 23, 2003
Posts: 53
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Leading every pitch of Snake Dike on Half Dome onsight with my best friend, to cap off a 3 week roadtrip. Awesome scenery, varied climbing and a full day.
Honorable mentions:
Durrance - Devils Tower
Ecstsasy - Seneca, WV
Soler - Seneca, WV
High Exposure - Gunks
Something about multi-pitch trad that it tons more rewarding than sport or bouldering...
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olderic
Sep 3, 2004, 6:32 PM
Post #63 of 126
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
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Got to name two because they represent very different "bests".
Snake Dike - soloed on a blustery day in October many years ago on my 34th b-day (many many years ago). "Best" because it was a complete adventure - car to car completely on my own in good form and a quick time.
Double-issama - More recently (slightly before my 50th b-day). "Best" because after being intimidated by it for many years I went for it and topped out just before sunset to a beautiful view out from the Trapps. It fished a perfect weekend of climbing for me - perfect route, perfect partner, perfect experience...
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climbaholic
Sep 3, 2004, 9:32 PM
Post #64 of 126
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Registered: Aug 20, 2003
Posts: 34
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I was reading through everyone's favorites and thinking...man no one's put snake dike down yet...but way out here on page 5 it's been listed twice.
My favs:
Stalagasaurus -- Ton Sai Thailand. Amazingly steep climb that use a huge stalagtite for stemming. Alas, I've heard the stalagtite has recently fallen making it a much harder climb.
Snake Dike -- The whole experience -- the long approach, the runout climbing and the calf-burning slab to the tourist-filled summit followed by a descent of the cable route. Puts a smile on my face just thinking about it.
Yellow Spur -- Every single pitch is good, interesting and different than the last.
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faust
Sep 3, 2004, 10:05 PM
Post #65 of 126
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Registered: Apr 30, 2003
Posts: 47
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My favorite multipitch climb so far is Lotta Balls in the Red Rocks. Every inch is quality, and there's a great variety of climbing.
My favorite single pitch ever is Laughing Crack in Squamish. Oh so very good.
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lordshockspeare
Sep 3, 2004, 10:14 PM
Post #66 of 126
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Registered: Aug 25, 2004
Posts: 116
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tough to say....
One favorite of mine, (mostly out of novelty) is "Meathook Sodomy" in maple canyon.
But seriously, the sweetest route I've climbed of late was "Sunday Bloody Sunday" down in the Dominican Republic. For many reasons.
KT
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simplistic
Sep 3, 2004, 10:24 PM
Post #67 of 126
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Registered: Jan 15, 2004
Posts: 53
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for me its gotta be "centrefold" in squamish, thus far it has opened my eyes to the possibilities that lie ahead in this sport. check it out.
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rockitjeff
Sep 4, 2004, 12:42 AM
Post #68 of 126
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Registered: Jul 13, 2002
Posts: 143
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one of my votes…. A trifecta….. . ..the Drug Dome/ Mariuolumne Dome link up of Oz , Gram Traverse and Middle Earth
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russ
Sep 4, 2004, 1:40 AM
Post #69 of 126
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Registered: Aug 14, 2004
Posts: 14
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The BEST? Well that would be a, maybe, 15ft climb in Berkeley that's probably rated 5.5 :roll:. It was my very first climb ever and was it exhilarating as hall.
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jsj42
Sep 4, 2004, 1:54 AM
Post #70 of 126
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Registered: Dec 24, 2002
Posts: 374
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Eldo: Doub Griffith/Dubious Graffiti (11c) or the Edge (11a)
RMNP: Spear Me the Details (11d) or Celestial Gate (12a)
South Platte: Wunsch's Dihedral (11a)
The Black Canyon: Scenic Cruise (10)
Moab Area: Infrared (12a) or Fine Jade (11a)
Indian Creek: Lightning Bolt Cracks (11a) or Learning to Crawl (11c)
Zion: Namaste (12a) (but I haven't done Shune's yet...)
J Tree: Figures on a Landscape (10b)
Red Rocks: The Delicate Sound of Thunder (11a) or Fiddler on the Roof (10c)
Devil's Tower: Matador (11a)
Squamish: Cruel Shoes (10d) to the Grand Wall (11a)
The Grampians: Missing (11c) or Sandanista (11c) or maybe the 7th Pillar (11d)
But the ALL-TIME best would have to be DESPATCHED (11d/12a) at Arapiles...
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mlog
Sep 4, 2004, 4:16 AM
Post #71 of 126
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Registered: May 11, 2004
Posts: 23
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Soloing Thunderbolt Peak to Polemonium Peak traverse in the Palisades (Sierra Nevada). It offered lots of 5th class knife-edge ridge climbing and some incredible exposure, all at 14,000'! We thought that our ridge climb went for about 1.5 miles. Difficulty-wise, it was probably IV, 5.8-5.9
I am so psyched with it, I will be back next year to finish the full Palisades traverse, this time between Mt. Sill (via Swiss Arete) and Middle Palisade (~V, 5.7)
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daveh_cdn
Sep 4, 2004, 5:08 AM
Post #72 of 126
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Registered: Apr 19, 2004
Posts: 47
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Waimea 5.10d at Rumney NH.
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crankenstein
Sep 4, 2004, 5:29 AM
Post #73 of 126
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Registered: Dec 20, 2002
Posts: 164
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A lot of great routes mentioned so far. It depends on how I define "BEST". Many climbs in RMNP come to mind; Petit Grepon, The Casual route, many routes on Hallet Peak. I guess one of the most memorable and proudest was Birds of Fire on Chiefshead. Another very memorable one was East Buttress of Middle Cathedral in Yosemite. If I tried to define "BEST" as the route I've done the most or would do again any time, then I have to think of Eldo and routes like The Green Spur or Over the Hill or Outer Space.
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a_scender
Sep 10, 2004, 3:39 AM
Post #75 of 126
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Registered: Feb 25, 2004
Posts: 88
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I can't believe that no one has metioned it yet,
Rosy Crucifixtion 10a in ELDO. The coolest two pitches ever.
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