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ricks308


Sep 13, 2004, 3:07 PM
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How to multi-pitch with 4 climbers
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My family wants to start multi-pitch climbing. How would you multi-pitch Trad with these specifics.

Father. Only trad lead climber in the bunch. Confidant belayer.
Mother. Confidant belayer. Can follow leader.
Son 1. Can belay, but I prefer to have someone watching him while doing it. (for example, if wife was belaying father from mid-point belay, son 1 could belay son 2 up to the mid point stance.) Can follow leader but might have some trouble cleaning some pieces. Can sport lead.
Son 2. Too small to belay. Would rather not have to worry about this one cleaning anything.

Gear: We have all the trad gear neccesary. Each has an ATC. We can also carry a reverso and a grigri.
We can carry three ropes. 10.5 X 50m, 10.5 X 60m and 10.5 X 70m.

Assume routes are too long to double the 70 meter rope and simul belay two climbers with the reverso from the mid point.

thanks


sandbag


Sep 13, 2004, 3:13 PM
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i like algebra word problems!

Father, Son 1 Son 2 and then Mother.

what do i win?


roboclimber


Sep 13, 2004, 3:20 PM
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With only one person in the group that can lead trad, isn't this kind of a recipe for disaster?


jkarns


Sep 13, 2004, 3:21 PM
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You will be moving incredibly slow, annoying climbers behind you, and feeling completely cramped at belay ledges. I cannot recommend you attempting this given the parameters listed. Somebody else in your group has got to learn to lead, and then you split up into two teams. Otherwise, stick with the toproping.


bumblie


Sep 13, 2004, 3:24 PM
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Spend more time on single pitch routes teaching your sons the basics of trad climbing.

You can climb multi-pitch (as a group of 4) by you leading each pitch and bringing everyone up before starting the next pitch. This method is very slow and tedious. Any party coming up behind you is basically screwed.


jerrygarcia


Sep 13, 2004, 3:47 PM
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In reply to:
You will be moving incredibly slow, annoying climbers behind you, and feeling completely cramped at belay ledges. I cannot recommend you attempting this given the parameters listed. Somebody else in your group has got to learn to lead, and then you split up into two teams. Otherwise, stick with the toproping.

Dont listen to this man. If you feel safe enough to bring your kids on multipitch you can try this method:

Purchase a thin 8.5 rope for your second line. Find routes/areas that are not popular with the masses. Lead up the 1st pitch on your main rope, then belay your wife up, she cleans(unless their are traverses then she reclips the 2nd line through those pieces) trailing the 2nd 8.5 line. Teach your kids to work together on the 2nd line, one at the end one tied 10 feet above him. The other option is to have one of the kids take the place of your wife as your second cleaning and reclipping if their are traverses. The only problem is that whoever is on the second line will be simulclimbing but im assuming these will be fairly easy routes.


crotch


Sep 13, 2004, 4:30 PM
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I think this way is simplest:

Mom belays Dad's lead.
Dad trails a 2nd rope and clips it through directionals.

Dad belays Mom and Mistress1 simultaneously on an autoblocking device. Mistress 1 trails a line and clips through directionals if appropriate.

When both Mom and Mistress1 are at the belay station, Mistress1 can belay Mistress2 on the trail line using an autoblocking device. Meanwhile, Mom can belay Dad while he leads p2.


dougsabum


Sep 13, 2004, 5:44 PM
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I second the idea of having a rope smaller than 10.5 mm for the smaller ones. Those ropes might be to big for their little hands.


cjcalls


Sep 13, 2004, 5:49 PM
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In reply to:
I think this way is simplest:

Mom belays Dad's lead.
Dad trails a 2nd rope and clips it through directionals.

Dad belays Mom and Mistress1 simultaneously on an autoblocking device. Mistress 1 trails a line and clips through directionals if appropriate.

When both Mom and Mistress1 are at the belay station, Mistress1 can belay Mistress2 on the trail line using an autoblocking device. Meanwhile, Mom can belay Dad while he leads p2.

You get me My Wife and My Mistress Up there and some one will be coming down the fast way :oops:


scottcody


Sep 13, 2004, 6:17 PM
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Dad leads on doubles,
Brings up wife and youngest at the same time,
Wife trails third rope and re-clip pro.
Mom belays oldest, dad restacks rope for next lead.


phyreman


Sep 13, 2004, 6:26 PM
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I've done this two ways. The way that was already mentioned where the cleaner drags a second rope and then essetially has the other followers on toprope is the safest if you just getting the others into climbing trad. The other method is to have the first follower unclip each piece as he/she comes to it and when follower 2 is ready they begin climbing and reclipping each piece... sort of like leading a sport route as the pro is already there. Then the last person up has to clean.

No matter how you do it, it will take a lot longer, so avoid popular routes on weekends.

Nate


asandh


Sep 13, 2004, 6:32 PM
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:)


Partner chugach001


Sep 13, 2004, 6:43 PM
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You scare me. For who's benefit are you doing this? How well practiced are you in self-rescue?

Having climbed with a partner who was KO'd in a fall - who's going to lower your bleeding a** to the ground and initiate a rescue? Listen, I don't want to be your grandma, but take an objective look at this. If you took this scenario to Vegas what kind of odds would you get on a mishap?

Hey man, it's your gene pool so good luck. That being said, I think there is some good advice above. Dad lead on doubles and using an autoblocker. Also, you may want to have Mom come last to help coordinate everyone. So Dad brings up both kids on autoblockers with the oldest trailing a line for Mom. Then Mom breaks down your achor and brings up the rear. Ditto rapping, try to get an adult first (to belay) and last, (to check connections and breakdown).

Good luck,
Jeff


ricks308


Sep 13, 2004, 7:11 PM
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I guess I left off some info to keep the post shorter.
I climb 5.10 and I am exp. on lead and folowing. I have taken many classes including self rescue. I am teaching my oldest son the "ropes". He is 13 years old and shows great interest. He just started leading sport 5.4. (I think he could do more but wouldn't allow him any more than that just yet). He easily climbs 5.7. I don't know his limit yet because he hasn't been on 5.8 or 5.9 yet. (He almost got 5.10 two weeks ago out in Moab but time and light ran out).
The wife and son 2 (11 years old) can climb 5.7. They also need to be tested further, but I don't want to stress them. (Keep it fun and they will want to go again).
They all enjoy the climbing but at different levels. My oldest likes push things. The wife and youngest just like to climb within their boundaries.
The climb we are seeking will be in the 5.2 - 5.4 range. Not something that will be a stress on anyone. (Accept for the oldest son, who will be complaining about it being too easy).
Yes I have opened myself for injury if I am knocked out, since I am the only one with rescue techniques. That's why we're limiting our exposure by staying way below our max grades.
We've been top-roping all over the country for the past 8 years and we all think it's time to move up.
thanks


asandh


Sep 13, 2004, 7:18 PM
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:)


msbrenne


Sep 13, 2004, 7:24 PM
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IF you have to ask other people whether you can do it, then your not asking the right people.


ricks308


Sep 13, 2004, 7:34 PM
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asandh said
"11 & 13 is old enough to learn proper safety procedures and anchor break down and cleaning. Get a Gri Gri and teach the boys to belay you with it. I still think one on one doing a 5.6 multi pitch is much better than trying to drag your entire family up a 5.2 ...."

Thank you. I agree.
So I guess I will be dropping off the youngest at your house to watch him for the weekend so me and the oldest can go get that good old one-on-one. : ^ )

Actually, that's why we bought the grigri. The oldest has been belaying me and cleaning routes (toprope and single pitch). But this has only been for a few climbs. We still feel the need for more direction. The 11 year old, as you say is old enough to start but shows no interest in belaying or leading. He just likes to climb. (Not someone I want belaying me).

It seems that alot of people here believe that everybody climbs every weekend. When you have kids there are a great many other things that make this rather impossible. Also, when you live in southern New Jersey, it winds up being a major excursion to go climbing. This just doesn't happen as often as I would like. There are many other responsibilities. We just like to climb.


rcaret


Sep 13, 2004, 7:37 PM
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The best scenario is if the last climber can lead , They can pass the belay and continue the climb thus making rope management easier , If not the as each climber reaches the belay you have to keep an order so the ropes do not tangle, It is simple in theory , If you never done it you may want to have some one show you or practice on a very easy route .It relay comes down to rope management and keeping the climbers in such and order as no one drags there rope over anothers rope ,Pretty close to just two climbers , Four people = three ropes


asandh


Sep 13, 2004, 8:12 PM
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:)


johnclimbrok


Sep 13, 2004, 8:51 PM
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step 1 -father takes family out and lets them gain experience, in a methodical manner, on easier single pitch gear routes allowing them to develop their "gear head"

Step 2 - father goes on multipitch climbs with individual family members allowing them to lead some of the pitches

step 3 - 2 groups of 2 climb the desired multipitch route - everyone is happy and has accomplished something beyond being dragged up the wall...


jaybird2


Sep 13, 2004, 9:14 PM
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The safety implications are numerous here. The belay stations are going to probably run you an hour or so each time you get everyone situated. Two bolted anchors (hopefully), some 200+ feet of rope, three to four people there, 84 locking biners, 56 runners... are you getting this... and it is all in an area of about 3 cubic feet. Three people with two ropes complicates things enough. And do not climb two kids on one rope. If one falls the other/both could get seriously injured. Can't believe no one said anything about that recommendation. Now one of the kids may be cleaning pro also... geez.

If you are experienced though, you can make it work. Only get on a two pitch route though with full vision of each pitch. I also would bring your wife up last to clean the pro and be able to climb up and help one of the young ones if they get stuck somewhere. If your wife is experienced, great, but if not, do you want her dealing with a hose-beast of a belay station with two fidgety kids when an emotional bout breaks out? A two pitch route will probably take you all day anyway with whatever method you choose. I doubt that a three pitcher would even be possible with the individuals and the time considered. Have fun, be safe.


climbsomething


Sep 13, 2004, 9:32 PM
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4 people. At least 3 new to multi-pitch. 2 adults, 2 children, 1 leader, and only 1 belayer besides said leader who can belay without supervision.

Logistical nightmare at best, epic waiting to happen likely, serious injury at worst. Period.

But don't let me tinkle in your Wheaties or anything...


aarong


Sep 13, 2004, 9:40 PM
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As you know, it's going to be slow going with 4 people, and while you may be able to make it safe for all 4, on a multi-pitch climb (by the way, how many pitches are you talking?) it would not be nearly as safe as if you were able to divide the teams in two.

Here's what I propose - work with your wife and maybe the 13 year-old, on leading at a 5.4 level if that is the max difficulty you intend to climb. If this is attainable, which I'm sure it is, have the Mom and older son climb together, maybe switching leads - or if Mom is more comfortable, have her lead all the pitches. You climb with your youngest son. Bring extra gear - enough to leave behind at the "cruxes" or difficult-to-place spots. Also - leave the anchor - if you think it would make it easier on them.

Practice on single-pitch stuff before dashing off to a multi-pitch climb. Also - are you all going to rappel down or hike off? This might be the more serious question if 3 of the 4 lack experience.


barrel


Sep 13, 2004, 10:08 PM
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I saw something similar at Tahquitz recently: 5 people with 1 capable leader... and only 2 ropes...

...going up Fingertrip Traverse.

I learned quite a bit from their ineptitude:
1) Four or more people need at least 3 ropes.
2) Traversing routes should be avoided, especially when there's only one competent leader.
3) Large ledges at belay stations are key. 2 of them rappelled at the small stance before the traverse, thankfully.
4) Walkie talkies come in handy when managing a larger group.
5) Common sense and a little empathy for other climbers is nice. Yes, you will be slower than the average group of 2, but that shouldn't keep you from enjoying the great routes in your area. If you can, try to pick routes that allow other groups to pass you on neighboring terrain, and be willing to let other pass/start ahead of you. These people, on one of the best moderate routes in the area, were perfectly unwilling to do so, and angered quite a few climbers that day.


Partner a3webhog


Sep 13, 2004, 10:18 PM
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In reply to:
Yes I have opened myself for injury if I am knocked out, since I am the only one with rescue techniques. That's why we're limiting our exposure by staying way below our max grades.

What happens if you get injured and your family is stranded several pitches up with zero ability to rescue themselves?

In reply to:
It seems that alot of people here believe that everybody climbs every weekend. When you have kids there are a great many other things that make this rather impossible. ... This just doesn't happen as often as I would like. There are many other responsibilities. We just like to climb.

As a father of two, I understand your position. But I'd caution you to take the time to ensure the safety of your family. They don't know any better, but you do. Pretty soon, your son will be able to lead and your wife and son2 will be competent belayers and trad cleaners. I'd counsel for patience.


Partner holdplease2


Sep 13, 2004, 10:21 PM
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If you have to ask, my money says you are in for a world of hurt if you try.

The reasons for this include: Confusion at leaders belay as seconds arive...great confusion clearing the second belay. Very bad scene if you are hurt, are injured, or cannot communicate with your second belay for any reason. Family dynamics in a life-critical situation with 75% of those involved seriously lacking experience.

And, I will say it again, the fact that you are asking on an internet forum how to do this.

I wish you safe and enjoyable family climbing, of course, but perhaps, as you can see from many of the responses to your post, this might not be the way to achieve either of those objectives.

-Kate.


dredsovrn


Sep 13, 2004, 10:43 PM
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In reply to:
i like algebra word problems!

Father, Son 1 Son 2 and then Mother.

what do i win?

This seems the best based on the circumstances. I would just ask this. What's your plan for self rescue if say you are knocked out? The climbing daisy chain will work if everything goes right. You don't want to be a story in the next ANAM.


climbfrog


Sep 13, 2004, 11:02 PM
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I would get some jumars and teach 2 of them how to jug. This way the to can alternate who jugs. Depending how long the pitches are, the second can tie in the middle of the rope, and the third climbs once the second gets to the belay. All the while the fourth person has jugged to your belay. I've showed plenty of young children how to jug and back them selves up. hey love it. It's also a lot quicker.


iamthewallress


Sep 13, 2004, 11:30 PM
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Big groups is the realm of the crag, IMO...experienced or not. Maybe if mom learned to lead?


petsfed


Sep 13, 2004, 11:50 PM
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In reply to:
...Four or more people need at least 3 ropes...

For maximum efficiency, the minimum number of ropes should always be one less than the total number of people. Fastest way to move is in teams of two. Under no circumstances should the experienced be outnumbered by the inexperienced. 1:1 is the best way.


dono169


Sep 14, 2004, 12:02 AM
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you lead (obviously) with two ropes (prob. the 50 and 60). Younger son and mother follow one on each rope. u belay them up on the reverso. good son is tied to mother who then belays him up as he cleans and u head up again. simple enough after a pitch or two


alan_ellis


Sep 14, 2004, 12:04 AM
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It sounds like you are stretching your families abilities and limits in order to rush them into multi-pitch climbing. Maybe they are not ready for multi-pitch climbing. The way you describe them, they are only comfortable on single-pitch routes. My advice, wait a couple of more years when you can divide your family into two teams, when you have two strong leaders, and EVERYONE is solid at lead belaying and cleaning.


barrel


Sep 14, 2004, 12:43 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
...Four or more people need at least 3 ropes...

For maximum efficiency, the minimum number of ropes should always be one less than the total number of people. Fastest way to move is in teams of two. Under no circumstances should the experienced be outnumbered by the inexperienced. 1:1 is the best way.

Definitely, Ropes = Climbers - 1 is ideal, but you can get away with a minimum of 3 with any number of climbers by using the 3rd as a tag line.

But then again, with 3 people you could use an alpine butterfly and tie the 2nd in short, provided the 3rd is VERY comfortable with the difficulty of the climb.


dingus


Sep 14, 2004, 12:50 AM
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In reply to:
How experienced a leader are YOU, for even considering this ?

How experienced should one become before daring to EVEN CONSIDER this? Do they need a permission slip too?

DMT


unabonger


Sep 14, 2004, 12:54 AM
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In reply to:
Teach your kids to work together on the 2nd line, one at the end one tied 10 feet above him. The other option is to have one of the kids take the place of your wife as your second cleaning and reclipping if their are traverses. The only problem is that whoever is on the second line will be simulclimbing but im assuming these will be fairly easy routes.

This is beyond stupid. Either son falling will cause the other one to fall.

There are ways to do what you want to do. But none of them are safe. Too many things can go wrong when you have this many ropes, climbers, and belays. Multipitch belays can be complex under the best circumstances. What happens when the simplest things go wrong, say...three pitches up and lightening starts flashing. How are you going to get everyone down safely and quickly? Answer, you aren't. It will be safe, maybe. And slow, and miserable. Or, it will be quick, and unsafe, and miserable.

Please, fess up, this is a troll, right?

UB

Take your oldest son and go climb some multipitch while the wife and younger one hang out and boulder.


asandh


Sep 14, 2004, 12:57 AM
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:)


markc


Sep 14, 2004, 1:06 AM
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But then again, with 3 people you could use an alpine butterfly and tie the 2nd in short, provided the 3rd is VERY comfortable with the difficulty of the climb.

I was thinking something similar to this. Have Dad lead the pitch. He belays Son1 (13 year old). Son1 trails the rope for Son2 and Mom. Son2 is tied to an alpine butterfly about 15 feet above Mom. Mom can offer encouragement and keep an eye on the less mature son, as well as clean any difficult gear. They won't be too much slower than a party of three. Son1 can be given tasks like stacking the ropes, etc. At 13 it will make him feel responsible and keep him occupied.

I'd advise starting on a couple-pitch route to work out the logistics. If anyone isn't enjoying the experience, they can be lowered from the top of pitch 1 and wait at the base. If they take things slow, I don't think it has to be the doom and gloom that other people are predicting.

mark


markc


Sep 14, 2004, 1:16 AM
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The safety implications are numerous here. The belay stations are going to probably run you an hour or so each time you get everyone situated. Two bolted anchors (hopefully), some 200+ feet of rope, three to four people there, 84 locking biners, 56 runners...

Can you explain the possible need for 84 locking biners and 56 runners? You're baffling me with your calculations here. What do you normally carry for a standard multipitch route? I doubt I carry more than 10 lockers and 15 slings. There's no need to multiply that for each additional party member (which still wouldn't approach your calculations).

mark


sleeper


Sep 14, 2004, 4:51 AM
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I'm quite certain there are many ways to solve this problem and achieve safe and satisfactory results. I present the method I use carefully and thoughtfully. Use your own judgement. Make your own decisions.

This should only be done in the context of a guide soloing the route, mistakes really are not an option. Self rescue wouldn't be a possible contingency. Climb a known route with plenty of margins (i.e. climbed the route previously, adequate belay ledges, good weather, plenty of daylight, etc.) You've traded away too many already. Don't do traverses, pick your route wisely.

Over the past 15 years I have often done multi-pitch climbs with two young (ages varying between 6-15) children (I have six) using double ropes (but could be done with a single rope and a haul line). I've always had them second the pitch together to "coach" each other through cruxes and cleaning as well as moving more quickly. I've never clogged up a route.

Recently, I adapted this method to include a fourth person. Using at least one line of 60m or 70m length (most pitches are not longer than 45-50m, you'll have to use discretion and judgment on route selection). Tie CHILD#1 (the least skilled) in 5-7m from the end on the longer rope (I use a girth hitched butterfly which is more foolproof than clipping in). I put the kids on one line, with the more skilled of the two, CHILD#2, is tied to the end and presumably will be able to move at the variable pace of CHILD#1. When the belay is on, the kids begin to climb unclipping as they pass (if you're using double ropes) gear while the fourth cleans the anchor and begins to follow. The three follow simultaneously with ADULT#2 following the pair and cleaning. When the CHILD#1 arrives at the belay station tie off and put CHILD#2 on belay with Muenter (or additional belay device of choice) and bring on up. All the while belaying ADULT#2. Whey! That's busy.

There's a context for this technique, extreme care and judgment must be exercised. Think it through.
There are might be more sure ways but I think few simpler and faster. Speed is safety.

Bill


jerrygarcia


Sep 14, 2004, 5:32 AM
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[quote=unabonger]This is beyond stupid. Either son falling will cause the other one to fall.

Beyond stupid? With kids who are of age to climb, have been toproping for 8 years all over the country, lead sport and only plan to climb 5.0 to 5.4 with this method? Have you ever done any glacier travel or peak traversing, this is just simple short roping.


jaybird2


Sep 14, 2004, 6:37 AM
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markc,

it was meant to be a joke. does anyone even own 84 locking biners? the point was to amplify the ridiculous nature of four people occupying one belay station, two to three of them being unexperienced.

it is great to agree with people's ideas, but it would also be great if everyone read the previous posts to avoid repeating things.

gotta echo what UB said. jerry, enough with the troll. that goes for the butterfly person also. we are talking about kids here. DO NOT climb both of your kids on one rope at one time. if one slips (the lower) because a bumble bee or something gets all up in his grill the other will be dragged down the 5.nothing that you guys are on, cheese-gratered to all heck at best. don't even climb your wife with the child above her on the same rope at the same time, something could happen to make her slip as well.


markc


Sep 14, 2004, 2:33 PM
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markc,

it was meant to be a joke. does anyone even own 84 locking biners? the point was to amplify the ridiculous nature of four people occupying one belay station, two to three of them being unexperienced.

D'oh! Thanks for explaining what I obviously missed. I thought you'd been out in the sun a bit too long.

I think the problem is some of us feel that they ARE somewhat experienced, just not in traditional leading. If they have reasonable goals and the proper route, I think this is manageable. I'm one of the people that suggested putting the mother under the younger son. I think an adult on an easy route should be able to monitor and adjust her pace while helping another climber. I'd definitely prefer an experienced adult coming up last so she can double-check the younger climbers.

To me, suggesting "something could happen to make her slip" is vague and not very useful. Of course she could slip, they could be struck by rockfall, or they could get stung by bees. Many more things could happen, but you have to consider the likelihood. What I think is much more likely is a cluttered belay station. A route with large belay ledges could minimize this. This is also why I suggested starting small (2 or 3 pitches max). That way, if someone decides multipitch isn't their bag, part of the group can easily retreat.

If there isn't a walk-off, I'd send the wife down first (either on rappel or lowered) or do a stacked rappel. The first adult down can make sure the kids are secure when they reach the next station. If the kids are too young/inexperienced to rappel, they can be lowered to the next station. Opinions obviously vary, but I don't think this a guaranteed epic.

mark


jerrygarcia


Sep 14, 2004, 2:44 PM
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gotta echo what UB said. jerry, enough with the troll. that goes for the butterfly person also. .

Troll? ill have you know ive never trolled anyone on these boards, take a look at every response I have posted. What i've described is called short roping and can be used succesfuly by knowledgable people like this family.


markc


Sep 14, 2004, 3:20 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
gotta echo what UB said. jerry, enough with the troll. that goes for the butterfly person also. .

Troll? ill have you know ive never trolled anyone on these boards...

Every post is a troll.


dingus


Sep 14, 2004, 3:23 PM
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Every post is a troll.
Every time I see this quote I hear Humble Pie, (to the tune of 30 Days in the Hole)

Every Post is a Troll!

DMT


Partner j_ung


Sep 14, 2004, 4:14 PM
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Several viable methods for 4-person multi-pitching have been discussed here, and many of them work well enough (all things considered) in the right circumstances.

If the terrain is easy enough and if you're technically adept enough, you might actually move faster than most two-person parties that normally frequent sub-5.4 routes. Obvious safety issues aside, however, you should know that if you don't have your system dialed, it's no where near as much fun as you think it is -- especially for kids.

Experienced climbers tend to look down on guided climbing as an option for themselves, but this sounds like exactly the type of situation in which an experienced guide can be most beneficial. That's what I recommend.


takeme


Sep 14, 2004, 4:48 PM
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More of a curious tidbit than anything--I once watched a party of 4 climb the Casual Route on Longs Peak (IV 5.10a, 1500', 6 mile uphill approach, etc.). A true party of 4--one person leads, 3 follow. At the time, I was astounded. Amazingly, and fortunately, there was noone else on the route that day. It looked like a major cluster-fukc/epic to me, especially as we watched one of the followers struggle with a 5.8 pitch. As we were leaving the area in the afternoon, we figured they wouldn't finish by dark. I found out later that they finished the climb as it was getting dark and completed the 9 2-rope rappels in the dark.

After I thought about a bit I was actually pretty impressed.

I once climbed a 3-pitch route, with climbing that was near, at, or above all our limits, as a party of 4. It went suprisingly well and we all had a great time. The belays were small stances with no fixed pro. We did have 2 leaders, though, but in retrospect I think it would have worked allright with only one. We never had more than 2 people at any given stance. There was noone else on the route.

On the First Flatiron above Boulder (1000', 5.6), I watched a party of 4 where the 3 followers climbed at the same time on 3 seperate ropes! I never did get a look at the leader's set-up.

Charles


asandh


Sep 14, 2004, 5:19 PM
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:)


jerrygarcia


Sep 14, 2004, 5:56 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
gotta echo what UB said. jerry, enough with the troll. that goes for the butterfly person also. .

Troll? ill have you know ive never trolled anyone on these boards...

Every post is a troll.

Im sorry I dont spend all day keeping up with intarweb jargon, please explain to me what you mean by this. I know what a troll is in the sense he "trolls" to get responses but why is "every post a troll"?


markc


Sep 14, 2004, 6:52 PM
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I can't recall the first time I read that quote. Here is a very broad definition of trolling:

The practice of trying to lure other Internet users into sending responses.

Who isn't trying to do that? We all like some type of reply, be it validation or a good fight. Troll comes across as negative in most cases, but good trolls can provide a great deal of amusement. On one level or another, we all do it.


iclimblilrocks


Sep 14, 2004, 11:36 PM
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I say do some single pitch climbs with them, Them meaning you and one other person.. IF the youngest doesnt like to lead or belay He's not ready to do any multi pitch.. I say take the oldest and get him a solid belayer and lead climber. And then get your wife to lead.. but dont take a family trip to elcap with only i trad leader, 2 solid belayers, 1 that can belay but still needs a backup and leads very easy sport, and 1 that loves to just climb around on a top rope..

while you and your oldest son are working on his skills, set up 2 top ropes for your wife and youngest to mess around on (time to put that grigri to work) dont torture your oldest by makeing him use a grigri, Let him use the atc.... Its a teen pride thing (im 14, my partners wouldnt ever make me use a grigri, and ive been climbing less then 20 times)


reno


Sep 15, 2004, 12:04 AM
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Also, when you live in southern New Jersey, it winds up being a major excursion to go climbing. This just doesn't happen as often as I would like. There are many other responsibilities. We just like to climb.

I feel terribly sorry for you, my friend.

My suggestion: Make a long weekend out of it.

On Saturday: You lead, Eldest Son cleans; Mom takes Youngest Son on a hike or swim.

On Sunday: You lead, Mom cleans, and Youngest Son trails as a third, with no real duties. Eldest Son gets a free afternoon to play, assuming you feel he's old enough to be alone for a while...

Tough spot... good luck.


climbsomething


Sep 15, 2004, 12:27 AM
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I say do some single pitch climbs with them, Them meaning you and one other person.. IF the youngest doesnt like to lead or belay He's not ready to do any multi pitch.. I say take the oldest and get him a solid belayer and lead climber. And then get your wife to lead.. but dont take a family trip to elcap with only i trad leader, 2 solid belayers, 1 that can belay but still needs a backup and leads very easy sport, and 1 that loves to just climb around on a top rope..

while you and your oldest son are working on his skills, set up 2 top ropes for your wife and youngest to mess around on (time to put that grigri to work) dont torture your oldest by makeing him use a grigri, Let him use the atc.... Its a teen pride thing (im 14, my partners wouldnt ever make me use a grigri, and ive been climbing less then 20 times)
Climbing less than 20 times on toprope and giving advice!

Well, at least you're honest. A lot of people around here have similarly sexy resumes but don't admit it :roll:


dorkmaster


Sep 15, 2004, 12:39 AM
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I've climbed with three other people before on a three pitch route.
Our leader went up first, and belayed from the anchor bringing up the other three, and so on and so forth. Yeah, its slow, but it was okay because there were huge belay ledges. At the last pitch we set a toprope on it and just lowered off when we were done, back down to the 2nd belay ledge, rather that having 4 people crowding the one top anchor, which there was no ledge for, and this also saved us a rappel.
Good luck dude!


ascender30


Sep 15, 2004, 4:04 AM
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If the original poster isn't joking (trolling), then he is a fool for even considering it, and any of you giving advice on how to get his disaster underway are aiding and abetting.

No disrepect folks...but just take a couple of steps back and imagine if we were discussing this in the Accidents and Injuries Forum AFTER this poor family ended up mangled and/or killed. Who among you couldn't point out a hundred or so "shouldas" and "couldas" in this situation....starting with "he shoulda never even THOUGHT about it!"

The stakes are too high. Remember how we always remind each other that 'complacency kills'? Well, figuring out the most efficient way for 1 self-proclaimed competent leader to get 3 other people up a multi-pitch climb SCREAMS complacency. Grab your stones and join me in telling this dude: you and ALL your family members at a minimum need to know how to build belay anchors; ascend/descend a rope (and carry the gear to do so); escape the belay system; buddy rappel with an injured climber; and most importantly MAKE CONSIDERED DECISIONS BASED ON EXPERIENCE. Add any number of other necessary skills I'm sure people will post, and THEN maybe consider a two-pitch IDIOT-PROOF trad climb (which doesn't exist)..and still you'll need a good deal of luck to get up as a group of four.

Oh, and have fun...


ascender30


Sep 15, 2004, 4:06 AM
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Complacency....

As has been pointed out...spelling counts.


ricks308


Sep 15, 2004, 3:43 PM
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Thank you all for your replies and concerns.

Ascender30 said:
"The stakes are too high. Remember how we always remind each other that 'complacency kills'? Well, figuring out the most efficient way for 1 self-proclaimed competent leader to get 3 other people up a multi-pitch climb SCREAMS complacency. Grab your stones and join me in telling this dude: you and ALL your family members at a minimum need to know how to build belay anchors; ascend/descend a rope (and carry the gear to do so); escape the belay system; buddy rappel with an injured climber; and most importantly MAKE CONSIDERED DECISIONS BASED ON EXPERIENCE. Add any number of other necessary skills I'm sure people will post, and THEN maybe consider a two-pitch IDIOT-PROOF trad climb (which doesn't exist)..and still you'll need a good deal of luck to get up as a group of four. "

At a minimum. Yes they all know how to ascend and descend a rope and carry the equipment to do so. Me and the oldest son know how to escape the belay. I will be teaching this to my wife the next time my son and I are practicing it at home. (when you live far from any climbing, this is what you do in your living room to pass the time) I am the only one with the buddy repel so if it were me that got injured they would have to lower me (if rope allowed). All but the youngest son is in a position to make considered decisions based on experience. And no, I do not believe that I am complacent.

Yes we were considering a (as close as you can get to)idiot-proof two-pitch walk-off route with a really big ledge for the belay.

What this discussion has really brought to light for me was that 13 years old is old enough to begin learning trad lead. I had not even considered this until he was a bit older. He has voiced the desire, but I have been hesitant to begin this due to his age and size. But looking back, I believe that he is probably ready to begin the process. (and yes, I do know the "process" of becoming a trad leader, and there are already a bunch of open threads on this, so no need to rant here on this). So this is what we will be concentrating on instead of multi pitch with four climbers. We'll take all three ropes. (what I was originally trying to avoid in the first place. The three ropes at the belay problem.) Trad lead on TR on one route while the others can TR on another. My oldest son thanks you all for this revelation.

thanks all.


takeme


Sep 15, 2004, 5:57 PM
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If the original poster isn't joking (trolling), then he is a fool for even considering it, and any of you giving advice on how to get his disaster underway are aiding and abetting.

Bullsh!t. I don't think any of us posting to this thread know this family personally. So we just have to take the original poster at his word regarding their level of experience. And from what I've read, there is no reason why they couldn't do a 2-pitch 5.4, with a large belay ledge and easy walk-off safely. The climbing will certainly be within all of their abilities, and far below the leader's ability. It's 2 pitches--not that commiting. I somehow doubt that they're going to be doing this out in the middle of the wilderness. Guides do stuff like this all the time on much longer routes. Now, maybe it will be annoying...or maybe not and they'll have a lot of fun. I hope for the latter. This kind of thing could certainly be a "disaster" in the wrong hands--as could any attempted climbing ascent, in the wrong hands. Nothing leads me to believe that that's the case here though.


Partner p_grandbois


Sep 15, 2004, 6:04 PM
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Kudos for making it a family event. Anyone that is annoyed by you moving slow should just F* off. Seriously, they are just being jerks. You lead, son #1 then 2 then Mother. you guys should be OK. I am sure you all understand the risk with this many people.


markc


Sep 15, 2004, 6:46 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
If the original poster isn't joking (trolling), then he is a fool for even considering it, and any of you giving advice on how to get his disaster underway are aiding and abetting.

Bullsh!t. I don't think any of us posting to this thread know this family personally. So we just have to take the original poster at his word regarding their level of experience. And from what I've read, there is no reason why they couldn't do a 2-pitch 5.4, with a large belay ledge and easy walk-off safely. The climbing will certainly be within all of their abilities, and far below the leader's ability. It's 2 pitches--not that commiting. I somehow doubt that they're going to be doing this out in the middle of the wilderness. Guides do stuff like this all the time on much longer routes. Now, maybe it will be annoying...or maybe not and they'll have a lot of fun. I hope for the latter. This kind of thing could certainly be a "disaster" in the wrong hands--as could any attempted climbing ascent, in the wrong hands. Nothing leads me to believe that that's the case here though.

That's been my position all along. There are three big problems they'll most likely deal with:
    * managing three climbing ropes
    * providing enough space for all party members at the belay (especially considering the length of time needed)
    * possibly monopolizing a route while others wait (which is only a problem if the OP considers it one)

How many people actually knew the laundry list of skills ascender30 wrote when they seconded their first multipitch route? I didn't. Most casual clients of guides don't. Yet somehow experienced leaders manage to pick routes within their abilities so friends can get a taste of multipitch climbs. Those who are hooked soon start the learning process in full.

As far as saying, "the stakes are too high," don't you think that's a personal judgment?

mark


climbsomething


Sep 15, 2004, 8:29 PM
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What this discussion has really brought to light for me was that 13 years old is old enough to begin learning trad lead. I had not even considered this until he was a bit older. He has voiced the desire, but I have been hesitant to begin this due to his age and size.
That's a funny arrangement of priorities. You're willing to subject your entire family to a clusterf*ck but you want to shield the 13-year-old from leading because he's small? I learned to lead trad when I was 22, but I was and am smaller than most 13-year-old boys...


dirtineye


Sep 15, 2004, 9:49 PM
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In reply to:

What this discussion has really brought to light for me was that 13 years old is old enough to begin learning trad lead. I had not even considered this until he was a bit older. He has voiced the desire, but I have been hesitant to begin this due to his age and size.
That's a funny arrangement of priorities. You're willing to subject your entire family to a clusterf*ck but you want to shield the 13-year-old from leading because he's small? I learned to lead trad when I was 22, but I was and am smaller than most 13-year-old boys...

Back in the good old days, right Sport Pumpkin?

I was sailing in organized races single handed when I was 13-- we also used to go looking for thunderstorms for the big wind hahaha. 13 can do a lot.


climbsomething


Sep 15, 2004, 9:57 PM
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dirt- you used to be a kid?! :shock: Freaky.


dingus


Sep 15, 2004, 10:51 PM
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In reply to:
What this discussion has really brought to light for me was that 13 years old is old enough to begin learning trad lead.

Depending upon the kid, absolutely! Like someone else said later, 13 can do a lot.

DMT


Partner artm


Sep 15, 2004, 11:38 PM
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according to a climbing magazine article Chris Lindner Led a 10a or 10b trad climb at the tender age of 10


crimpandgo


Sep 16, 2004, 12:09 AM
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ricks308:
Have fun and be safe. There are many climbs that have ample space at belay ledges for 4 or 5 people. and dont worry about slowing up the parties behind you. You have just as much right to climb the route as anyone else. I too climb with two kids. Sure there are risks and sure ther are more logistics. But climbing is risky. So is driving in a car and you wouldn't think twice about putting your family in the wagon would ya?

I agree with keeping it easy. My kids can climb in the 5.6 -5.8 range and when I take them on group climbing adventures, i like to choose this cool 5.0-5.4 . They talk about it for weeks afterwords.

Have fun.


sleeper


Sep 16, 2004, 12:22 AM
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Bravo!

It's good to hear from someone living the dream, not only speaking hypothetically.

Climb on!


norushnomore


Sep 24, 2004, 10:05 AM
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Here is a suggestion on the subject that should get you going:
(takes 3 ropes):

1. F leads first pitch and bring M up, M trailing a second rope.
2. M brings S1 trailing a third rope while F reflakes lead rope.
3. S1 brings S2 (while observed by M) meanwhile F leads next pitch belayed by M

Never more then 3 guys at the belay station. And you are not going to be that much slower then a two person party.


ophir


Sep 28, 2004, 7:23 PM
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wife 1 son 1 and son 2 just need more experience in ground up single pitch leading and cleaning. mabey you should try for next season and do your homework with this one. Another option is to have a guide company take up the whole bunch and put the brute of the safty on them and not dad 1


maniacsurfer420


Sep 28, 2004, 7:36 PM
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um ya screw climbers behind cuz of yur families selfishness and lake of responsibility. dont exceed 3 climbers and 2 is best and more safe..
but in my opinion screw the ropes u should all just solo.


ambler


Sep 28, 2004, 7:40 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
You will be moving incredibly slow, annoying climbers behind you, and feeling completely cramped at belay ledges. I cannot recommend you attempting this given the parameters listed. Somebody else in your group has got to learn to lead, and then you split up into two teams. Otherwise, stick with the toproping.

Dont listen to this man. If you feel safe enough to bring your kids on multipitch you can try this method:
No, do listen to this man. jkarns is right. Climbing in a 4-person party is slow even if they're all fully competent. And the belay ledges get crowded, there are 3 ropes to manage, lots of chances to drop rocks or gear on whoever is below, things get stuck, the day wears on.... Much scope for unforeseen complications.

In reply to:
Purchase a thin 8.5 rope for your second line. Find routes/areas that are not popular with the masses.
In these parts "not popular" means "more likely to have long approach and loose rock." Two more things that are less great for kids.

I was taking my two kids, one at a time, up classic routes from North Conway to Boulder Canyon by the time the they were 10. They remember those days vividly. I think a mass assault on a long route could have been memorable in an unhappy way.


maniacsurfer420


Sep 28, 2004, 7:40 PM
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aahhh jack ass climbers dont u hate emm and by saying that i mean all of u route hoggin slow puss bastards. common edicate is to let faster better climbers pass you , and jeee this is impossible and very dangerous wiht a family of amateurs above you waiting to pull u off the rock.


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