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irockclimbtoo
Dec 13, 2004, 1:27 AM
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ab
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thinksinpictures
Dec 13, 2004, 1:33 AM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/articles/index.php?id=179
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irockclimbtoo
Dec 13, 2004, 1:34 AM
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ab
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grimpiperx
Dec 13, 2004, 1:35 AM
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V7 :roll:
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melodicllama
Dec 13, 2004, 1:38 AM
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crunchatize me illchester!! :wink:
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wingnut
Dec 13, 2004, 1:47 AM
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In between V7 and V8.
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kalcario
Dec 13, 2004, 1:58 AM
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v3-5, To Bolt at Smith is 14a and has no moves harder than v3
13a is nowhere near v8, it just feels that hard if all you do is boulder
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ikefromla
Dec 13, 2004, 2:00 AM
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In reply to: In between V7 and V8. |
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grimpiperx
Dec 13, 2004, 2:07 AM
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In reply to: v3-5, To Bolt at Smith is 14a and has no moves harder than v3 13a is nowhere near v8, it just feels that hard if all you do is boulder
So what? I dont believe Realization doesnt have any moves harder than V7.........
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kalcario
Dec 13, 2004, 2:18 AM
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*So what? I dont believe Realization doesnt have any moves harder than V7.........*
Realization crux is consensus v9, and it's 15 fuckin a
Still think 13a is v8?
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grimpiperx
Dec 13, 2004, 2:31 AM
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In reply to: Still think 13a is v8?
Number one I said V7 :roll: But yes I do, considering most published books and websites seem to agree with me.....but hell lets not get to serious here.... :)
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camhead
Dec 13, 2004, 2:31 AM
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ya'll are confused. there is a scale that roughly equates v-grades with YDS, on which v7 roughly equals 5.13a, whatever this means.
This should make sense, given that the original YDS was supposed to only apply to the hardest move on a climb. The problem is the endurance factor, however. 60 sustained moves of v2 can very well equal a 5.13a sport route. Really, the true skill of sport climbing is being able to pull of fairly difficult (but not necessary bouldery) moves under full pump, learning to incorporate strategy and rest points into the route, rather than pure power.
However, kalcario and others are missing the point when they simply say that 5.13 does NOT equal v7. This is probably because weakmos such as kalcario may be able to project an endurance 5.13, but when deprived of hangdogging and stick clips, cannot even TOUCH many a v5, let alone v7-8.
For every sustained 5.13 that has no move harder than v3, I can show you a shorter, more powerful 5.13a that contains solid v6 or v7. Think Wild Iris, Central Texas choss, or any other area that is considered "bouldery." It's quite simple:shorter routes = more bouldery power, less endurance, and thus a higher v-grade than a longer counterpart of the same number grade.
I would argue that the only thing you can say about the correlation between v grades and YDS is something like this: A 5.13a will rarely ever have a move harder than v7, a 5.12b will rarely have a move harder than v5, and so on and so forth. This is as objective as you will get.
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karl_hungus
Dec 13, 2004, 2:31 AM
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Doing V7 sure as hell won't get you up every 5.11 -5.13, and doing 5.13 sure as hell won't get you up every V3-V8. The scales are so entirely different you shouldn't bother comparing them, so don't.
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curt
Dec 13, 2004, 2:35 AM
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In reply to: However, kalcario and others are missing the point when they simply say that 5.13 does NOT equal v7. This is probably because weakmos such as kalcario may be able to project an endurance 5.13, but when deprived of hangdogging and stick clips, cannot even TOUCH many a v5, let alone v7-8.
Exactly.
Curt
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irockclimbtoo
Dec 13, 2004, 2:37 AM
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ab
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kalcario
Dec 13, 2004, 4:59 AM
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* This is probably because weakmos such as kalcario may be able to project an endurance 5.13, but when deprived of hangdogging and stick clips, cannot even TOUCH many a v5, let alone v7-8.*
You've definitely got me pegged, although I can usually manage v4-5...I'll take v4-5 and being able to function at the crags, though, over being the v7-8 boulderer/gym bunny who's physically incapable of redpointing the 5.11/v0- warm-ups...
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curt
Dec 13, 2004, 5:20 AM
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In reply to: * This is probably because weakmos such as kalcario may be able to project an endurance 5.13, but when deprived of hangdogging and stick clips, cannot even TOUCH many a v5, let alone v7-8.* You've definitely got me pegged, although I can usually manage v4-5...I'll take v4-5 and being able to function at the crags.....
Sport climbing does not indicate any ability to "function at the crags."
Curt
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camhead
Dec 13, 2004, 5:29 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: * This is probably because weakmos such as kalcario may be able to project an endurance 5.13, but when deprived of hangdogging and stick clips, cannot even TOUCH many a v5, let alone v7-8.* You've definitely got me pegged, although I can usually manage v4-5...I'll take v4-5 and being able to function at the crags..... Sport climbing does not indicate any ability to "function at the crags." Curt
Old men, please break it up.
Kal, qualify the term "function at the crags," and quit setting up false dichotomies.
Curt, since hearing about your great relationship with Paradise Forks, I will take it upon myself to both force you to "function at the crags" while I gain revenge for those Gloria's horror shows to which you have subjected me in the past. Next summer. Paradise Lost. Boo Ya.
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grimpiperx
Dec 13, 2004, 5:31 AM
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In reply to: Sport climbing does not indicate any ability to "function at the crags."
Oy, since this thread is dead anyway I might as well ask, Curt I have Uber-respect for you, but why is it that you and everyone else bashes sport climbing so much arent you just supposed to do what makes you feel good? I mean they climb rock right? So why is it so different?
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curt
Dec 13, 2004, 5:37 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: * This is probably because weakmos such as kalcario may be able to project an endurance 5.13, but when deprived of hangdogging and stick clips, cannot even TOUCH many a v5, let alone v7-8.* You've definitely got me pegged, although I can usually manage v4-5...I'll take v4-5 and being able to function at the crags..... Sport climbing does not indicate any ability to "function at the crags." Curt Old men, please break it up. Kal, qualify the term "function at the crags," and quit setting up false dichotomies. Curt, since hearing about your great relationship with Paradise Forks, I will take it upon myself to both force you to "function at the crags" while I gain revenge for those Gloria's horror shows to which you have subjected me in the past. Next summer. Paradise Lost. Boo Ya.
Yeah Paul, I didn't exactly do myself proud at Paradise Forks last fall, however I have onsighted numerous 5.12 trad routes in my day, some 20 years ago--when 5.12 was considered difficult. Photos of some of those exploits have been posted on this site.
Curt
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kalcario
Dec 13, 2004, 5:44 AM
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*Kal, qualify the term "function at the crags," and quit setting up false dichotomies.*
It means fire the warmups in 10 minutes or less each, work and/or crank off a project or 2, and run laps on stuff you have wired 3-4 letters easier than your project level, preferably 2 days in a row - basically the same thing a competent boulderer does, except you're climbing. The boulderers I know, when they actually dare to show up at the crags, get so pumped 4 bolts up one warmup run that they're literally finished for the day.
*Curt, since hearing about your great relationship with Paradise Forks,*
We heard about that down here, too - not that we really needed to be told...
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camhead
Dec 13, 2004, 5:48 AM
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In reply to: Yeah Paul, I didn't exactly do myself proud at Paradise Forks last fall, however I have onsighted numerous 5.12 trad routes in my day, some 20 years ago--when 5.12 was considered difficult. Photos of some of those exploits have been posted on this site. Curt
yeah, I've seen the pics, and if I ever get to the point of being solid on 5.12 gear, I would probably retire into boulders, or southern california choss, etc.
That said, what would be the V-rating for an Indian Creek 5.11+??? My chalk sponsor needs to know.
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curt
Dec 13, 2004, 5:49 AM
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In reply to: *Kal, qualify the term "function at the crags," and quit setting up false dichotomies.* It means fire the warmups in 10 minutes or less each, work and/or crank off a project or 2, and run laps on stuff you have wired 3-4 letters easier than your project level, preferably 2 days in a row - basically the same thing a competent boulderer does, except you're climbing. The boulderers I know, when they actually dare to show up at the crags, get so pumped 4 bolts up one warmup run that they're literally finished for the day. *Curt, since hearing about your great relationship with Paradise Forks,* We heard about that down here, too - not that we really needed to be told...
I didn't see you at Paradise Forks either, Joe.
Curt
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curt
Dec 13, 2004, 5:55 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Yeah Paul, I didn't exactly do myself proud at Paradise Forks last fall, however I have onsighted numerous 5.12 trad routes in my day, some 20 years ago--when 5.12 was considered difficult. Photos of some of those exploits have been posted on this site. Curt yeah, I've seen the pics, and if I ever get to the point of being solid on 5.12 gear, I would probably retire into boulders, or southern california choss, etc.
You will only feel the need to retire to boulders if you are offended, as I am, by posers like kalcario who only sport climb and then pretend to believe the numbers they tick mean something.
Curt
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pk
Dec 13, 2004, 6:06 AM
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I've flailed off v3's! and have soared up some high 12's there is no correlation here other than the grade, it's just that a grade. It all depends on the strength, length, sustance of the route in question.
grade at your own discression.
P.k.
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