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John Sherman / Queen Creek controversy (merged topics)
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offwidthclimber


Dec 23, 2004, 10:14 PM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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In reply to:
but turning one of the U.S.'s premier bouldering areas into a mining pit is OK. Sounds like Union Carbide could use a man like him in Bishop...

'queen creek' and 'premier bouldering' in the same sentence? WTF? have you ever climbed there? i like queen creek and all, but talk about a misnomer...

anyway, back on topic.

i had a conversation w/ a friend about this whole sherman thing while bouldering in the mcdowells this morning.

queen creek is pretty much gone:

1. there is no legal precedence or argument against the mining
2. resolution has the mineral rights
3. huge tax revenues will be generated
4. lots of business, jobs, and $$$ for the region (which is depressed)
5. finally, lets face it, climbers are not some powerful lobby

now, that's not to say the fight should be given up, but i think sherman's taking a realistic approach to the issue. might as well get something out of this in the way of a land swap for some other climbing. it's better than nothing.


veep23


Dec 23, 2004, 10:17 PM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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David Brower once compromised, he basically allowed Glen Canyon to be flooded in exchange for saving what became Dinosaur NM. It was something he bitterly regretted for the rest of his life. Now I'm not saying that this bouldering area even comes close to comparing with Glen Canyon, but we can certainly learn a lesson from Brower's mistake.


alpnclmbr1


Dec 23, 2004, 10:43 PM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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What is up with people thinking that Sherman can pull another queen creek out of thin air? He can't.

Anyone think the mining company is going to foot the bill for replacing 650+ routes and 1200+ boulder problems?

Also, what is up with people thinking that there is going to be some kind of land swap? The mining company would not hire someone to facilitate giving away real money.

So far he is adding a few lines to an established choss crag?

Get real, he more then likely represents chump change.

If the climbing community is going to get anything real out of this it is going to be through the FOCQ and the accompanying public uproar.

If they can put this kind of spin on it here, they don't have much to worry about.

As far as Sherman, it seems that in my mind, he moves from the climbers advocate side of the table to the corporate america side of the table.

Sometimes, you have to do, what you have to do. If that is the case, oh well, it doesn't make it any better.


rasperas


Dec 23, 2004, 11:38 PM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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Anyone who sells out to Resolution Copper/Block-Cave method, or gives up because
In reply to:
that there is absolutely nothing we climbers can do
-is a prostitute. I would never sell my soul for the reason that "There is nothing I can do about it."


curt


Dec 23, 2004, 11:47 PM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
but turning one of the U.S.'s premier bouldering areas into a mining pit is OK. Sounds like Union Carbide could use a man like him in Bishop...

'queen creek' and 'premier bouldering' in the same sentence? WTF? have you ever climbed there? i like queen creek and all, but talk about a misnomer...

anyway, back on topic.

i had a conversation w/ a friend about this whole sherman thing while bouldering in the mcdowells this morning.

queen creek is pretty much gone:

1. there is no legal precedence or argument against the mining
2. resolution has the mineral rights
3. huge tax revenues will be generated
4. lots of business, jobs, and $$$ for the region (which is depressed)
5. finally, lets face it, climbers are not some powerful lobby

now, that's not to say the fight should be given up, but i think sherman's taking a realistic approach to the issue. might as well get something out of this in the way of a land swap for some other climbing. it's better than nothing.

On items (1) and (2) your friend is mistaken. The benefits of items (3) and (4) would still accrue to the State of AZ-- even if Resolution built the mine in a way that would preserve climbing access.

Curt


robrox


Dec 24, 2004, 1:40 AM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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In reply to:
....do your part to cut down on copper use! quit using electricity, electronics, computers, climbing gear, etc. if there isn't a market for copper, the mine won't open.
the "wink" is conspicuously absent...but I assume it is there invisibly.

Another path would be to invent or perfect the replacement for copper...'specially if it is based on something we all veiw as waste.


phxtradrock


Dec 24, 2004, 2:26 AM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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alpnclmbr1 wrote: "Also, what is up with people thinking that there is going to be some kind of land swap?"

You are quite obviously from California and not from Arizona. Try to educate yourself about the topics we are covering before speaking. This will prevent people from laughing at you.


jlane


Dec 25, 2004, 3:30 AM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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My sincerest hope is that Sherman finds some quality bouldering, because I would enjoy bouldering there as well as Queen Creek in the years to come.

Lets continue to get the word out on a local and national level and see what power the voice of the people still has in America. My thanks goes out to John for creating some controversy and passion about the issue, at least people are talking about it regardless of side.

The fight is just begining, lets not throw in the towel just yet.


chippy


Dec 27, 2004, 4:50 PM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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"my thanks go out to john for creating some controversy and passion about this issue" ?????? are you kidding me? john sherman did nothing to start this debate--and the only outreach he's made to arizona climbers was not to solicit the views of the locals, but rather to try to recruit a few of 'em to help him fulfill his contract with resolution copper. all of this has been going on in secret for months, and now that he has been outed, you are thanking him?? sherman is a tireless self-promoter. if he is proud of the great work he is doing for arizona climbers, why hasn't he been a little bit less secretive about it?

arizona climbers, and our out-of-state guests, who are concerned about the loss of a significant and unique climbing resource like oak flat/queen creek face a tough-enough challenge, against a well-financed opponent, without having to wage an additional, internal battle against our so-called friends. if we have any chance whatsoever to prevail in this, it will be by presenting a unified voice as a user group. if you are too cynical to believe that climbers can win against resolution copper, then by all means, stay out of the fight--but don't sign up for a paycheck helping the other side make their points! now is the time to show your plucky resolve by not giving up, and to show your fierce independent streak by not idolizing a sellout.
chippy


atg200


Dec 27, 2004, 5:04 PM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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yes! show your fierce independent streak by doing and thinking exactly what chippy tells you to do and think!


baigot


Dec 27, 2004, 6:50 PM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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hey dudes:

even if the minning industry wouldn´t destroy a climbing area...is a fact that almost every of them are contaminating the enviroment...affect to climbers anyway.

it´s cheaper to the industry to pay contamination penalties, than the costs of aplicate the chemical reciclying regulations.

We, the argentinians are suffering the same in patagonia.

the world has to see that instead of $$$.

what jobs we will have in the future (or our childrens future) if we wouldn´t have air to breathe?

Thanks for hear me?

Vicente


azstickbow


Dec 28, 2004, 5:45 AM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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Chipper and all the other Sherman bashers- listen up.

I have known John for over 20 years. I know him better than anybody posting on this thread. I have talked with and helped him extensively on this project. He genuinely believes that this is a chance to get something for climbers from a mine that is going to happen no matter what climbers do. He is working very hard to scour the hills to find something worth developing not some choss heap. He lived and climbed in Tucson and Flagstaff but does not owe us anything. He is not interested in developing some new area in AZ personally. He makes enough money with his day job that he doesn't need to work for RCC. He hopes to find some great stuff and turn it over to you and go play golf somewhere.

One of the things I've always admired about John is that he does what he believes is in the best interest of climbing (not himself) even when it pisses some people off (and makes his life harder). His climbing style and opinions are uncompromising. His life is devoted to climbing. He once told me that climbing saved his life and he believes he has a debt to give back to the sport. You know all those books he wrote? He isn't getting rich off them. I know he does not make enough from all of them to pay his health insurance. He wrote thenm for the love of the sport and lifestyle of climbing. To call John Sherman a sell out or worse as some of you have done is to prove you do not know the man and are not trying to solve the problem just venting on somebody who is.


There will be no replcement for Oak Flat that will be exactly the same. And even if there was a climbing area that was a mirror image of Oak Flat some of you would still cry foul. The hope here is to mitigate the loss of one resource by opening up another similar area (or possibly more than one) that was not available or developed. There are many things going on here and many decisions to be made.

Going to the table with the mining company with a proactive attitude and a plan will get you something. They have lots of money and motivation to make this thing work for them. RCC even offered to sponsor the bouldering contest for at least 5 more years while new areas are being developed. I believe their offer was turned down even while Jim W. is always threatening to cancel it for lack of sponsors.

The mining company doesn't have a clue about rock climbing so they hired the best guy they could to tell them what they need. John's qualifications are unquestionable. He is the only human to have climbed in all 50 states. He has done more boulder problems and first ascents than anybody and has probably climbed in more good and bad areas than anybody. His perspective on what makes a good climbing/bouldering area is unparalleled and his uncompromising nature is working for you. RCC went out of their way to find him for these reasons. By the way, he was recommended to them by Royal Robbins.

I started climbing in the Phoenix area in 1976. I've seen areas come and go. If the local climbers would unite and help John find good areas and put together a proposal you might be surprised how much you can get. You may have the first recreation area in the state (country?) designed and built with climbing in mind. You might end up with the best sport climbing crag in the state (I've seen it) You might end up with climbing areas on both the east side and west side of the valley. You might end up with all kinds of things if you go to John and say this is what we want in return for losing some bouldering. Sure access to SOME of the Queen Creek areas will be lost but much of it will be preserved. In addition you might find yourself looking at some great new area(s). To fight to save Oak Flat without compromise might just come back to bite you because you will either get nothing or have no say in what you do get. There are choices out there and they will be made with your input or without it. My biggest fear is that local climbers will sabotage a great deal and screw everybody.

John knew going into this that he would become the enemy in some peoples eyes but he believes this is a chance to get something for everybody from a wealthy multinational mining company. He's talked with Jim W. and Curt and many other locals. He would rather have had one of them take the job. It was offered to Jim. He will make enough money off this to buy some new golf clubs and play a few rounds at the Biltmore. During all of his exploration so far he's not even done any climbing. At this moment he's nursing an injured back sustained by exploring another wild area.

Believe me he's not being bought off, he's giving back. You'd be wise to help him out or at least tell him what you want in return. RCC is not trying to divide and conquer as some suggest. They asked Jim W. and others for input and were rebuffed. So, who is the bad guy? At least Sherman is trying to get you something. If the climbing community would unite and say, "This is what we want." You have a much better chance at getting it than bitching about it here.

Get on the bus or watch the video later.


P.S. I know somebody will flame me for not posting my name but with some of you threatening to shoot Sherman why would I.


curt


Dec 28, 2004, 6:22 AM
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In reply to:
Chipper and all the other Sherman bashers- listen up.

I have known John for over 20 years. I know him better than anybody posting on this thread. I have talked with and helped him extensively on this project. He genuinely believes that this is a chance to get something for climbers from a mine that is going to happen no matter what climbers do. He is working very hard to scour the hills to find something worth developing not some choss heap. He lived and climbed in Tucson and Flagstaff but does not owe us anything. He is not interested in developing some new area in AZ personally. He makes enough money with his day job that he doesn't need to work for RCC. He hopes to find some great stuff and turn it over to you and go play golf somewhere.

One of the things I've always admired about John is that he does what he believes is in the best interest of climbing (not himself) even when it pisses some people off (and makes his life harder). His climbing style and opinions are uncompromising. His life is devoted to climbing. He once told me that climbing saved his life and he believes he has a debt to give back to the sport. You know all those books he wrote? He isn't getting rich off them. I know he does not make enough from all of them to pay his health insurance. He wrote thenm for the love of the sport and lifestyle of climbing. To call John Sherman a sell out or worse as some of you have done is to prove you do not know the man and are not trying to solve the problem just venting on somebody who is.


There will be no replcement for Oak Flat that will be exactly the same. And even if there was a climbing area that was a mirror image of Oak Flat some of you would still cry foul. The hope here is to mitigate the loss of one resource by opening up another similar area (or possibly more than one) that was not available or developed. There are many things going on here and many decisions to be made.

Going to the table with the mining company with a proactive attitude and a plan will get you something. They have lots of money and motivation to make this thing work for them. RCC even offered to sponsor the bouldering contest for at least 5 more years while new areas are being developed. I believe their offer was turned down even while Jim W. is always threatening to cancel it for lack of sponsors.

The mining company doesn't have a clue about rock climbing so they hired the best guy they could to tell them what they need. John's qualifications are unquestionable. He is the only human to have climbed in all 50 states. He has done more boulder problems and first ascents than anybody and has probably climbed in more good and bad areas than anybody. His perspective on what makes a good climbing/bouldering area is unparalleled and his uncompromising nature is working for you. RCC went out of their way to find him for these reasons. By the way, he was recommended to them by Royal Robbins.

I started climbing in the Phoenix area in 1976. I've seen areas come and go. If the local climbers would unite and help John find good areas and put together a proposal you might be surprised how much you can get. You may have the first recreation area in the state (country?) designed and built with climbing in mind. You might end up with the best sport climbing crag in the state (I've seen it) You might end up with climbing areas on both the east side and west side of the valley. You might end up with all kinds of things if you go to John and say this is what we want in return for losing some bouldering. Sure access to SOME of the Queen Creek areas will be lost but much of it will be preserved. In addition you might find yourself looking at some great new area(s). To fight to save Oak Flat without compromise might just come back to bite you because you will either get nothing or have no say in what you do get. There are choices out there and they will be made with your input or without it. My biggest fear is that local climbers will sabotage a great deal and screw everybody.

John knew going into this that he would become the enemy in some peoples eyes but he believes this is a chance to get something for everybody from a wealthy multinational mining company. He's talked with Jim W. and Curt and many other locals. He would rather have had one of them take the job. It was offered to Jim. He will make enough money off this to buy some new golf clubs and play a few rounds at the Biltmore. During all of his exploration so far he's not even done any climbing. At this moment he's nursing an injured back sustained by exploring another wild area.

Believe me he's not being bought off, he's giving back. You'd be wise to help him out or at least tell him what you want in return. RCC is not trying to divide and conquer as some suggest. They asked Jim W. and others for input and were rebuffed. So, who is the bad guy? At least Sherman is trying to get you something. If the climbing community would unite and say, "This is what we want." You have a much better chance at getting it than b---- about it here.

Get on the bus or watch the video later.


P.S. I know somebody will flame me for not posting my name but with some of you threatening to shoot Sherman why would I.

You know Sherman better than I do? I doubt it. And yes, you should post your name so we can collectively see if you are a credible source of information--or not.

Curt


chouca


Dec 28, 2004, 6:55 AM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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I want to commend the lack of knee-jerk reaction to this post. Imagine, finding out about BOTH sides to make informed opinions rather than making hasty conclusions from a single inflamatory post. This could sweep the internet and start a revolution! Climbers are breed a cut above.

Marc B.


azstickbow


Dec 28, 2004, 4:24 PM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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My intention for posting here is to defend John from attacks made against him personally by people who either don't know him or at least haven't talked to him about this project. Curt excepted. And to hopefully get some of you to give constructive input. I'm not here to defend RCC or say that you should be happy about losing some climbing. I think losing any public land is sad but in this case we might get something back at least.

Yes Curt I know John better than you do. And if you think I am his "yes man" you should have seen the 2 hour argument we got into just two days ago!


curt


Dec 28, 2004, 8:24 PM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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In reply to:
My intention for posting here is to defend John from attacks made against him personally by people who either don't know him or at least haven't talked to him about this project. Curt excepted. And to hopefully get some of you to give constructive input. I'm not here to defend RCC or say that you should be happy about losing some climbing. I think losing any public land is sad but in this case we might get something back at least.

Yes Curt I know John better than you do. And if you think I am his "yes man" you should have seen the 2 hour argument we got into just two days ago!

I think you just "outed" yourself there, Chris. Anyway, I am looking forward to seeing John when he gets down here to AZ and talking to him more about what is going on between FoQC, The Access Fund and others--in relation to the current RCC mining plans.

It seems to me that you have only heard the RCC side of this issue, perhaps from John, and that you don't understand that what we (FoQC and AF) really want is a "win-win" scenario, where a mine can coexist with climbing.

Curt


md3


Dec 29, 2004, 8:01 PM
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No one is threatening to shoot anyone. In combat deserters / traitors can be shot without much due process. The comment wasn’t meant seriously or to imply any sort of threat, but rather, only to emphasize how disappointing it would be if a prominent climber was helping the mining company diffuse negative public reaction while aware that there is a possibility that such a reaction could lead to mining in a way that preserved the land above. However, as I would say again, such efforts are constructive and should be supported if there is no chance of saving the area.

BUT, I still haven’t seen anything posted from anyone who really knows anything about what is involved in anti-development efforts as to whether or not there is a realistic chance of pressuring the mining company into using the more expensive surface preserving option.


climberstephen


Dec 29, 2004, 8:14 PM
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I don't see what the big deal is. It's not even that great of a climbing area and there are tons more near it as well as scattered around AZ. I think the big deal with it isn't about climbing at all. QCC is the local climber's hide out where they have big parties and the once-a-year bouldering comp. So I think it's about booze and money, not climbing. Not that I disagree (the PBB is certainly a blast) but, of course, those arguments won't win over any State Reps. I say the locals would be spending their time more efficiently if they were looking for a new (and better) climbing area then sitting around trying to get that choss pile back.

Stephen


curt


Dec 29, 2004, 9:11 PM
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In reply to:
I don't see what the big deal is. It's not even that great of a climbing area and there are tons more near it as well as scattered around AZ. I think the big deal with it isn't about climbing at all. QCC is the local climber's hide out where they have big parties and the once-a-year bouldering comp. So I think it's about booze and money, not climbing. Not that I disagree (the PBB is certainly a blast) but, of course, those arguments won't win over any State Reps. I say the locals would be spending their time more efficiently if they were looking for a new (and better) climbing area then sitting around trying to get that choss pile back.

Stephen

Stephen,

What would be nice is if they could find a great mineral deposit under Jackson Falls and then strip mine that choss pile.

That was sarcasm, my friend--get it?

Curt


climbsomething


Dec 29, 2004, 9:26 PM
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In reply to:
I don't see what the big deal is. It's not even that great of a climbing area and there are tons more near it as well as scattered around AZ. I think the big deal with it isn't about climbing at all. QCC is the local climber's hide out where they have big parties and the once-a-year bouldering comp. So I think it's about booze and money, not climbing. Not that I disagree (the PBB is certainly a blast) but, of course, those arguments won't win over any State Reps. I say the locals would be spending their time more efficiently if they were looking for a new (and better) climbing area then sitting around trying to get that choss pile back.

Stephen
Are you as stupid as you sound?


Partner bill


Dec 29, 2004, 9:33 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I don't see what the big deal is. It's not even that great of a climbing area and there are tons more near it as well as scattered around AZ. I think the big deal with it isn't about climbing at all. QCC is the local climber's hide out where they have big parties and the once-a-year bouldering comp. So I think it's about booze and money, not climbing. Not that I disagree (the PBB is certainly a blast) but, of course, those arguments won't win over any State Reps. I say the locals would be spending their time more efficiently if they were looking for a new (and better) climbing area then sitting around trying to get that choss pile back.

Stephen
Are you as stupid as you sound?

read his profile, his "local crag" is about 150 miles from where he lives. :lol:


bvb


Dec 29, 2004, 10:48 PM
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In reply to:
I have known John for over 20 years

In reply to:
You know Sherman better than I do? I doubt it.

ha! pffffft! get real!! you guys are posuers. i know sherman better than both of you two guys put together. i'm the king of the "i know sherman" club. me. bvb.

you two johnny-cum-latelys can sukit.


climbsomething


Dec 29, 2004, 11:11 PM
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Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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I don't see what the big deal is. It's not even that great of a climbing area and there are tons more near it as well as scattered around AZ. I think the big deal with it isn't about climbing at all. QCC is the local climber's hide out where they have big parties and the once-a-year bouldering comp. So I think it's about booze and money, not climbing. Not that I disagree (the PBB is certainly a blast) but, of course, those arguments won't win over any State Reps. I say the locals would be spending their time more efficiently if they were looking for a new (and better) climbing area then sitting around trying to get that choss pile back.

Stephen
Are you as stupid as you sound?

read his profile, his "local crag" is about 150 miles from where he lives. :lol:
heh. Hi Bill! New screenname!

Hi bvb!


curt


Dec 29, 2004, 11:48 PM
Post #99 of 156 (16264 views)
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275

Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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I have known John for over 20 years

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You know Sherman better than I do? I doubt it.

ha! pffffft! get real!! you guys are posuers. i know sherman better than both of you two guys put together. i'm the king of the "i know sherman" club. me. bvb.

you two johnny-cum-latelys can sukit.

That's odd, he doesn't seem to know you. Hahahaha.

Curt


bvb


Dec 30, 2004, 8:38 PM
Post #100 of 156 (16262 views)
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Registered: Mar 3, 2003
Posts: 954

Re: Sherman sells out AZ climbers on Queen Creek/Oak Flat ac [In reply to]
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I have known John for over 20 years

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You know Sherman better than I do? I doubt it.

ha! pffffft! get real!! you guys are posuers. i know sherman better than both of you two guys put together. i'm the king of the "i know sherman" club. me. bvb.

you two johnny-cum-latelys can sukit.

That's odd, he doesn't seem to know you. Hahahaha.

Curt

waitaminnit goddammit...then just who the hell is this ugly assed burned-out oldskool rummy who keeps showing up at our houses unannounced, drinking our liquor, groping our wives, fondling his dog in a 'these-two-are-way-too-familiar' fashion, and flailing on our warm-ups???

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