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crag behavior question
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micahmcguire


Jun 19, 2002, 8:15 PM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2002
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All I can say is Alaska kicks ass. So much space, so few people. All you climbers stay down there you hear?

[ This Message was edited by: micahmcguire on 2002-06-19 13:15 ]


rock_climbin_06


Jun 19, 2002, 9:45 PM
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Registered: May 15, 2002
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I agree with JT. I would pretty much say first come first serve for the routes. And dont worry I won't be coming to Alaska too soon. Its a long drive to us "Texans"


duskerhu


Jun 21, 2002, 8:04 AM
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OK, let me clarify... (or make clear for those of you who seemed to misunderstand)

We are not hogging routes or leaving our ropes on a route all day and climbing them when someone feels like it.

There are usually 4 or 5 guys and sometimes more. If any of us brings our kids, wow, now we might have 10 people. If we all bring our kids, holy buckets are we busy chasing them around...

Anyway, if we have 5 guys, and we put up 2 routes/ropes, someone is on those routes the whole time. If we don't have someone on a route, we pull the rope and are done with that route.

Now, for more clarification, these routes are usually right next to each other (meaning, no more than say, 50ft. apart). We don't put up ropes that are on totally different areas and hike between them, and leave the route sit unclimbed for hours, half hours, 20, 15, or 10, minutes at a time while our ropes are there "saving our place."

Clarifing, if you got to a route first (and are climbing it), you keep it 'til you're done (as long as someone is climbing it) and if someone shows up and wants to wait in line for it (while you're still climbing it), maybe offer them a run (if you're not done climbing it) untill you're done climbing it.

And flailers, common, we're adults here (well, some of us anyway.) If someone can't make the route after a bit, they're off. Oh, yes, we have the exception. They are our CHILDREN! And we don't let them flail very long...

Oh, and by the way, if you people are so neanderathalean (I'm not sure this is really a word) that you can't even communicate with your "fellow" climbers when you see one at the crag, it must be YOU who are making it an "unfriendly" place!

PERIOD!

Now with that, say hi to the other climbers you run across; I bet they say hi back. And talk a little more, you might make a friend.

Climb happy and safe!

Live Free!
Play Hard!
Climb On!

duskerhu


phil_nev


Jun 21, 2002, 9:20 AM
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crag behavior question [In reply to]
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Well apollodorus,
"Sport is for fags" eh??
It's a shame to see someone of such experinace so narrow minded. You would think that by now, people would have accepted that sport climbing is a style, and a very popular one at that. I LOVE climbing. Sport trad, i love it all, it just shits me up the wall to be called a FAG just because i clip a bolt more often than i place a nut.....


bouldertoad


Jul 3, 2002, 2:43 AM
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Registered: May 26, 2002
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If you are on a route then you have every right to be on it as long as you see fit. Now I will say that taking long breaks between attempts is not the best thing to do but nonetheless it is your perogative to do so.
Recently I was climbing with a two of my good friends and the one was working a roofy section of a route. A second party came up and while she was in mid crux yelled up to ask how long she was going to be up there. She was taken back by the whole thing and fell. They then asked her how many times she was going to try before giving up the rope. Now this is not typical of most people but they are out there and I do not think you can get much more rude then talking to a person leading a route. Especially if you do not even know them.
I had some choice words with the party and they left never to be seen by us that day.

On a side note I had one of my most fun days of climbing when all the "good" ....starred...routes were occupied by other climbers. WE were forced to try some of the not often done routes and I was pleasantly surprised that they were just as good as the ones we wanted to do. So if someone is on the route you want to do just suck it up and go find another ....there is a lot of rock out there just go and climb it


mobius


Jul 9, 2002, 4:45 AM
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ohh man, you climb where people wait in line? that has to sux...guess im just used to the luxury of being mostly alone. id smack em and tell em to go somewhere else, pleanty of rock for all!!! Amd its your untill your done, tr or lead or whatever, you were there, they can wait or go somewhere else.
Matthew~


ecocliffchick


Jul 9, 2002, 4:51 PM
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  I can't believe there are so many places with people waiting in line to climb! I think the only time I've had to wait was over the Easter weekend in the Red River Gorge and even then, there was maybe one party on each climb in the area we intended to go, so we could either wait the half hour it might take for them to finish, or move to an area with a trickier approach. I guess there are way fewer climbers around here..

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