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zoebird
May 23, 2005, 6:47 PM
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Hi all!
I wrote a brief introduction in the "less than 100 posts" thread, but i don't know if that's read or what not, and honestly, i don't know how to jump in or where. In fact, just poking around, i feel really intimidated!
I think this post is going to be long, because i'm finding that rock climbing is really bringing a lot of personal, emotional stuff to the fore--which is beyond the actual technique of the climbing. I'm just going to jump into where i am and what i'm feeling--and try to make it clear. I know it probably won't make sense, and perhaps many of you won't care or whatever--but i think i'm looking for some support and for some help and direction in whatever way a person feels that they can help.
I recently started climbing (say, feb-march? i don't have a concept of time, so i don't know when i started, but it hasn't been long). I joined up/started volunteering at a local rock gym in exchange for access to the facilities. It's really great because i also have access to all of the cool people there--the rock climbing coaches and other staff, as well as all the kids who can kick my butt and all the really great 'elders' of the community who have been rock climbing forever. because i work there so many hours a week, i've really been able to get 'in.'
in the first few days, i met a number of people who had started around the time i did. we would get together and belay for each other, struggle through movements and various routes (bouldering and on the ropes), and sometimes just hang out and socialize. Not only was i enjoying learning how to rock climb, but i was also discovering a new social group--an added bonus! (i recently was 'kicked out of' my yoga commuity for being a whistle-blower on sexual/emotional abuse--so while i wasn't necessarily seeking a new social group or 'home' in this sense, i was happy to discover it.)
but i'm progressing very slowly. I do have a few personal disabilities that may be a problem. I don't have depth perception. So, it's interesting. Not only can i not see how far away a certain hold is, i can't really tell what shape it is such that i would know how to reach up and grasp it in such a way that i don't go tumbling to the floor. Of course, i only learned this after bouldering my way half-way up a particular climb to come landing rather hard on all fours.
a lot of people who also started around when i did can do all sorts of routes that i can't even get near yet (i'm still working in the 85-150 range on bouldering; .5-.7 range on the ropes). they don't necessarily climb more than i do, but i guess they're willing to take risks that i'm not ready for yet--perhaps that's emotional too.
in any case, the friends i made have now surpassed me and are looking forward to outdoor climbs. I'm terrifed of outdoor climbs, simply because of my indoor experience. I have a hard enough time climbing on things that are brightly colored with easily marked, brightly colored tape next to them. I can't imagine what it would be like to be in this situation on a rock face where there isn't a great difference in color or shape.
many of my new friends are 'moving on' from me. thankfully, some of the old timers are kind enough to belay for me on the lower routes--and they're kind enough to belay for a good 45 minutes as i go up and down, up and down, up and down--working the same pathway trying different things to become more balanced and efficient. they're kind enough to offer advice, to go up for me and show me different things, to walk me through routes on the bouldering wall as well. that's been a great blessing.
i think i want to know a few things:
1. how do i develop and maintain friendships in this social structure? i don't really understand the status structure of this new social group. everyone is 'generally accepting' and most people are 'eager to help' whenever i ask--and sometimes even when i don't ask, and they do it in such a gracious way, it's wonderful.
but then, when i try to talk to them about meeting to climb together or perhaps just hanging out sometime (this would be after the fifth or sixth time of working together just because we happened to be at the gym at the same time), it turns sour. I've even had people walk away from me while i'm mid-sentence.
I also notice that people who do a lot of outdoor stuff tend to be considered 'better' than indoor people, which is why my peers (those who started when i did) are burning to get an outdoor experience. I'm not really burning in that direction. I may get there eventually, but i'm happy to learn a skill and enjoy myself and face myself in the situations presented to me in the gym. they're already difficult! so, because i don't seem to have this interest, i tend to get ignored again.
On the flip side, i have been volunteering more. This weekend i volunteered for a competition and learned how to judge. it was really great and i learned a lot about climbing. I also learned four new knots and met an 'old timer' who is meeting with me this week to help me learn a few tricks about crossovers and bumping out--which is a new area for me. So, that's a benefit.
2. this learning curve thing, how does it work?
it seems that some people take to rock climbing like ducks to water. I think, though, that people take it as different kinds of ducks. Some ducks don't care how they swim across the pond as long as they get there. Other ducks want to do it properly. I'm a second duck. I think this is another reason why i'm not 'like my peers' in this regard. most of them are like the first ducks.
The coaches and a few others say that i have a natural grace when moving but i haven't quite made the connection yet on speed and reach and getting all of the individual pieces together. they watch me move ineffieciently. They've recommended some workshops that they teach at the gym, but unfortunately those are when i work. I've considered private lessons, but they've been difficult to organize (mixing schedules is hard).
are their books or something that i can read to gain more access to information? and is there a way to get around some of this jargon? even on this web site i'm so saturated with jargon i can hardly read posts without refering to the dictionary! lol
i really, really, really enjoy rock climbing. I'm kinda struggling with the learning curve (and perhaps my learning methodology is completely wrong) and some of the social aspects.
anyway, sorry that it's long--but sometimes i'm neurotic. thanks for reading; thanks for any advice you can give.
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austinclmbr
May 23, 2005, 7:19 PM
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did you know there is such a thing as a tree duck? wood duck actually. They are born in a nest high in the trees. and for the first few weeks they do not swim at all. unlike all other ducks who come out of the egg asking wich way to the local swimin hole? but, after about a month the mother wood duck throws them out of the nest and they learn to swim and fly in one day!!!
my point here is to stick with it. People are a little timid about partnering up with you because you may hold them up out on the rock. This will pass. Try some low level outdoor bouldering for one thing. this should help bridge to "real" climbing. Also, there is blind climbing, climbing with a blind fold on (I know it sounds crazy) try starting on climbs you have already done and doing it by memory. There are all kinds of widgets and gidgets that are designed to improve your strength, flex, grip, endurance, etc.etc. My rule: there is no substitute for time on the rock!! Furthermore, you may find outdoor climbing easier, you can choose what hold to use instead of being told . You may find the with your limited depth perception being able to run your hands over a textured surface is better than looking for a hold. (stick with me I am almost done) I think most importantly: as you climb remember that it is your footwork that is important, so while ascending make note of where your feet will go as you pass a hold(make sense?). and Finally if you haven't already done so read HOW TO ROCK CLIMB. by John Long. among the people I climb with this book is comonly referd to as THE BIBLE!!
hope all this helps
Jason
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aikibujin
May 23, 2005, 7:49 PM
Post #3 of 11
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Well first of all, welcome to the rock climbing community. You will meet a lot of great people along the way, but also you may run into jerks from time to time. This community is just like any other community, we are all human with faults.
I sense that you've put a lot of your thoughts and emotions into your 3rd post. I can't offer a lot of answers, but I can offer a piece of my own mind. I remember when I first started climbing two years ago, and I can feel some of that eagerness in your post. Rock climbing can be very addictive, I've gone from thinking climbing is crazy and I'd never do it, to going on climbing trips almost every weekend.
First of all, everyone progresses at a different pace. I know how it feels to have people who started with you at the same time, or later than you, to be climbing harder than you. You kind of feel left out, like everyone else has gone on, and you're left behind. I know it's easier said than done, but you just have to not compare yourself to others, and climb for yourself. Challenge yourself, compare yourself today to yourself a week ago, a month ago. See the improvement in yourself, and don't worry about how hard the others are climbing.
You've only been climbing for a few months, there are still much for you to learn and improve. Improvement will come with time, don't try to push it too hard. You've mentioned your lack of depth perception, which hinders your improvement. But take your time, if you love this sport then you still have years and years to climb, to learn, and to improve.
About the social aspect of climbing, it is certainly nice to have a group of people to climb with. I climb more or less in the Washington DC area, and there is a big group of climbers here. But there's really no "social structure" in the group, climbers are just people, so a climbers group is same as any other social group. How you maintain friendship is based solely on you and your friends. Personally I think friendship is something that just happens, like two people get together, and their personalities just clicks. If you aren't clicking with another person, then it doesn't matter how hard you try, you're not going to maintain a friendship. I generally found that be positive, be nice, be warm to other people helps in making friends, but nothing is guaranteed. I don't know how things go "sour" with the people you know, but if they don't want to hang out with you, you can always try to find other people to hang out with.
Climbing outdoors... well I may be biased, but I think climbing outdoors is the real climbing, climbing in the gym is training. Now there are people who likes climbing in the gym better. Climbing outdoors doesn't make a "better" climber, it's just different motivations. I climb because I love the outdoors. But if you want to climb indoors, don't let other people pressure you. You have your goals and motivation, and that's perfectly fine. People who are motivated to go outdoors want to be outdoors, and if that's not what you want, you can try to look for people who share similar goals.
And the learning curve is different for different people. Some ducks just learn to swim faster than other ducks. There are people who have natural talents in climbing. Most of us don't have that. For most of us, there will always be people who can climb harder than us. If you focus on how fast the other ducks are swimming, then you may loose your own path across the pond. Focus on your own path, don't let the other ducks distract you.
Anyway, enjoy climbing. Don't analyze things too much, just enjoy your time on the wall, challenge yourself, and focus on your own goals and motivations.
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mistertyler
May 23, 2005, 8:44 PM
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In reply to: but i'm progressing very slowly. I do have a few personal disabilities that may be a problem. I don't have depth perception.
I can imagine that being unable to perceive depth would make climbing more difficult. However, I think that at this stage in your climbing career you should focus on becoming a safe climber and having fun, rather than acheiving higher numbers.
Don't be in a huge rush to climb outdoors. Climb indoors until you feel you're ready to go outside, and if it takes a year before you get to that point and are having fun in the gym, so be it. When you are ready to go outside, most serious climbers will (or should be) be more interested in your ability to belay them safely and prusik, etc. than your ability to crank hard. (Of course there are exceptions -- if someone is really looking to push themselves on lead and is way over your follow-limit, they're going to want a partner who cranks closer to their level...)
Don't worry about how "hard" others are climbing. Climb and learn at your own pace, not at others' paces. They may be genetically gifted or setting themselves up for overuse injuries.
In reply to: and they're kind enough to belay for a good 45 minutes as i go up and down, up and down, up and down--working the same pathway trying different things to become more balanced and efficient.
It's great that these people have been so kind to you, but in all honesty you shouldn't let someone belay you continuously for 45 minutes. Even the nicest people will eventually get bored and start avoiding you. Instead, jump on a route for 5 or 10 minutes --- climb it, work it, etc., and then come down and belay them on something they'd like to climb. Recognize that their time is valuable and that both partners should be getting something out of the workout.
In reply to: how do i develop and maintain friendships in this social structure?
Be yourself, learn your stuff, and you'll be just fine.
In reply to: but then, when i try to talk to them about meeting to climb together or perhaps just hanging out sometime (this would be after the fifth or sixth time of working together just because we happened to be at the gym at the same time), it turns sour. I've even had people walk away from me while i'm mid-sentence.
Are these, by chance, partners who belayed you for long periods of time?
In reply to: I may get there eventually, but i'm happy to learn a skill and enjoy myself and face myself in the situations presented to me in the gym. they're already difficult! so, because i don't seem to have this interest, i tend to get ignored again.
F_ck 'em. As you wrote, just enjoy yourself and climb with those people who don't feel the need to "prove" themselves to others.
In reply to: this learning curve thing, how does it work?
Go buy How to Rock Climb, by John Long, and read it from cover to cover. Then come back to this site and start reading through the various threads here. Focus on obtaining a basic understanding of the sport so that you can talk to other climbers at your gym and learn from them as well. By knowing your stuff, you will attract partners who appreciate your dedication to the sport and they'll be happy to take you outside.
Happy and safe climbing.
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brolloks
May 23, 2005, 8:52 PM
Post #5 of 11
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Registered: May 25, 2004
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Zoebird
Welcome to climbing. This is something in life worth pursuing, and I hope you stick with it.
Regarding your questions... Try not to overthink all of this so much that you forget the most important aspect - enjoying the climbing. The climbing culture might seem formidable to a newbie, but that is nothing to be ashamed of, nor dominated by. Keep on climbing, and you will soon understand more.
Maintaining friendship in the social structure - you already have people helping you out, showing the type of persons climbing with you. Friendship might develop naturally, but if you try to force it too hard you might find people are uncomfortable (?). Take it easy and enjoy what you have in common for now - the climbing.
The learning curve - it's different for everyone. There is an aspect of climbing that asks you to push your own personal limits, but you decide how far you want to go. Don't compare yourself to others - just keep on climbing.
Maybe some advice : if you have the opportunity to go outdoors and trust the people you can go with, think strongly about giving it a try. It should be in a safer environment (toprope already set up, like in the gym), so you can relax and just try your best - very little can go wrong under "normal" circumstances (I say this very tentatively.... ensure to be safe !). And you can give your learning curve a healthy boost by climbing outdoors.
You might even find people are more relaxed when you climb with them outdoors, making getting to know them easier. I know I am, and that's a big part of the priviledge of climbing outside.
Hope this helps.
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zoebird
May 24, 2005, 12:38 PM
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Registered: May 23, 2005
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Thank you for all of your thoughtful replys.
First, I'm purchasing a copy of the book you recommended. So, thanks for that!
Second, about the climbing itself--the learning curve. I know that i'm a very methodical and technical learner. It is the methodical and technical things--that lead to the creative things--that bring me to aparticular endeavor. What i like about yoga, rock climbing, music, etc, is that there is a method and technique involved, but once you get the basics down, you can really create and think outside of the box. But, as i often tell my yoga students--you have to be 'in the box' first.
Part of the reason why i have this methodology is personality type. Another reason is because of my eye issues. The final reason is because i want to learn how to do things properly, to understand what i'm doing and feel confident about it, so that i can feel safe while doing it, and if i'm helping someone else, they can feel safe too.
So, all in all, i'm not really comparing myself to others. It's simply that others (those who started around me) were pretty much continually criticizing me for taking my time, for trying to learn skills rather than get to the top, for spending a lot of time working on grip strength and feeling out and holding different holds on the board, for learning the various knots that are there to learn, sitting with the route setters to learn about that process and how they create it and feel up the holds, and so on. Most of them know two knots, don't worry about form, and just push-push-push to the top. In some cases, i think they are heading toward injury (as is often the case with yogins too); in other cases, i think they're just excited and eager and will settle down once they decide that they want to actually learn the sport (also common with yogins). But, i did want to know if there was actually something 'wrong' with me or my methodology or not. I simply assumed, when i started, that it would be an appropriate method--but apparently a lot of newcomers don't think so (and a lot of experienced climbers don't seem to care or notice).
To clarify, those experienced climbers who will belay for me tend to do it after they've finished climbing. They'll show me a few things on the bouldering wall, wander off, do their own thing with their own kind (you know, the 5.12+ lead climbing areas), and then come back and offer to 'just belay' for me until their kid finishes practice and playing (there's a kids team at the gym where i am). Certainly, when anyone who offers to belay for me or with me (and i often offer for them), we normally alternate. I tend to spend about 5 minutes per route, because most people have limited time. So, i'm not entirely selfish in this matter--but if one of these experienced climbers is willing to 'just belay' for a while, should i simply turn them down? i often offer to alternate, and as i said, they'll get on the same rope and show me things. . .is there a different etiquette?
As for the larger social issues, i tend to look for social structure to get into a rhythm of the group. because i'm so new, i notice that everyone is really nice, everyone is supportive and willing to help in some way. I'm not really doing this to gain friends, but i've found that it's a very social sport.
In a yoga studio (the social structure i'm most familiar with), people used to gain status based on experience in the practice, whereas now, you gain status by your equipment, your wealth, and the famous teachers you've studied/vacationed with. That's within the 'general population.' then, of course there are those people who have status such as teachers because they are more knowledgeable and leading the classes. But, a teacher who is wealthier, studies with more famous teachers, and has the best tan tends to be the better teacher. It was interesting to watch my status plummet over the last ten years from 'advanced student and apprentice teacher' (a moderately high status) to an experienced teacher with very low status because i don't go on expensive yoga vacations or spend a lot of money on mats and the like. Quite strange. And, i was ultimately really traumatized by this new social structure when i 'blew the whistle' on a group of teachers who were behaving inappropriately (sexual and emotional abuse) toward students. It was the right thing to do, but now i'm basicly exiled.
Because i lost all of my friends from the last five years in one swoop, i went back to the way i was used to being--independent loner. This is my most comfortable area--but i have learned that comfort isn't always the healthiest, so i challenge myself to go into new communities and make connections with new people.
I decided that i needed to work and learn something new, so i turned to rock climbing. It seems to have the same energetic and spiritual elements that yoga has, just turned from a different somatic space--which gives me the comfort level of being an individual thing. That, and you look good doing it--as i am as vain as the next gal. 8^) So, i started to volunteer at the gym (the same way i got my yoga training) and have taken advantage of the benefits of that (free gym membership, free training on how to do certain things like belaying, and i'm learning how to belay for the lead climbers, even though i'm not up there myself yet, etc). We're also starting to talk about teaching yoga classes there, since a lot of the climbers seem to do yoga poses (very poorly, in most cases, such that it could lead to injury, rather than benefit).
Once there, i realized that it is a very friendly environment. I didn't expect this. the current yoga environment, like the traditional gym environment, isn't terribly friendly to newcomers. you kinda have to be around a while before people 'get to know you' and the like. In a way, i'm sort of off balance when every time i come to the rock gym, people are so friendly and open and share their knowledge. In fact, it is really scary, because at some level i'm waiting for the other shoe to drop.
I think that i feel off-kilter socially because when my peers started to criticize my methodology, it seemed like that shoe was dropping. Similarly, this is the group who has basicly stopped talking to me, beyond a 'hey, how's it going,' when we spend the last few weeks/months working together. Now, they're a group and i'm not.
Now, on the one hand, this is perfectly ok. As i said, i'm a loner and comfortable with that. Certainly, i don't try to force anything, and ultimately i don't mind being left out. Quite frankly, not only am i similar to a wood duck, but i'm an odd duck. I'm deeply spiritually driven (though not in a particular tradition), my work schedule is erratic, and i'm vegetarian and i don't drink alcohol--which some people seem to take as a personal judgement, which it isn't. i don't drink coffee either, but no one seems to care about that. It's really just tastes. So, when i have been invited out, i've often had to decline, and when i haven't declined, there was criticism about not eating wings and drinking beer (which i wouldn't have done anyway when i did eat meat--just one of those things). So, i guess for some, i'm just not 'connectable.'
And i think i have an issue with the connectability concept. If it is true, then i've only ever 'clicked' with two people in my life: my husband and my friend Michele. I really don't think that any one human can be that unclickable, but if i am then that's a burden, isn't it? it seems to become an adequacy question for me. am i really not cool enough? am i really so odd that people don't like me, when i am being myself and not trying too hard (except trying hard to learn skills of course).
I think also i have a lot of emotions to work through from the last ousting from my own community. I'm one of the most highly trained, most experienced yoga teachers in my area. I'm a tough teacher and good at my job. I also love my job--but the community is really 'anti' my deal. It's partly because i'm so different as a teacher, but it's also because i did whistle blow on a lot of behavoir that was really in appropriate. I'm seriously hurting from this.
When i first started climbing, it was a real safe haven. Then, a group of yoga teachers show up at the gym to start climbing and do things. Not only did my rock peer group start on the criticism, but so then did the yoga people who were there. So, i was really a wreck and actually avoided going to the gym on the days that they would be there--and while the gym wanted me to belay for them, i had to explain that, emotionally, i simply couldn't. In fact, even that sticky little green space in me wanted to belay poorly--if you get my drift--and we can't have that.
So, i'm off kilter and i know this. I still enjoy climbing and i'm working around the yoga people who are coming in. My husband has accompanied me a few times to 'hedge' the emotional struggle a bit when yoga people are there. this gives me more emotional space to simply face the wall and problems and enjoy myself and learn about myself in the process.
I can't tell you how wonderful it is that rock climbing has opened up this terribly difficult and emotional door for me. As a very difficult yoga posture often does, it's taking me in directions that i never expected. I'm not only learning a skill, but i'm learning a lot about my social self (or lack thereof) and some of the more difficult emotional aspects of what has happened with my community-career in the last year or so. There is an element of grief to it--and there's nothing like a challenge to bring that crap to the fore. Of course, it always happens about 20 minutes after i leave the gym--for which i'm thankful, or i'd probalby seem like a complete basket case.
and i'm sure that, to you, i seem like a complete basket case.
but, i still enjoy climbing and look forward to going--and just yesterday i went alone, two yoga people were there, and i was fine. so, there is growth, and i always look forward to my next go (which is wednesday!).
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tradrenn
May 25, 2005, 3:06 AM
Post #7 of 11
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
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First:
I would like to welcome you to RC.com
Second:
Thank you for your anesty, that's amaizing. Your openness is so amaizing.
Third:
You should absolutaly not worry that other people are going to climb outdoors and you are not. Just be yourself, just like you did by making this thread. Don't bother too much with people from your gym, I used to climb in one for 2 years and only hang out with them after the gym but never really much more then that. They never became my "friends".
Fourth:
If you have a question: just ask away. Some people on this site will be not "cool" but most are really OK
So you just keep trying and don't give up. You will get there sooner or later.
Rule # 1 is "have fun"
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vegastradguy
May 25, 2005, 3:25 AM
Post #8 of 11
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Posts: 5919
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first, welcome to the climbing community. you'll find that it's an interesting bunch of folks, all with different types of personalities and quirks.
you should read aikibujin's post again, its an excellent one and sums it up perfectly.
finally, in regards to your climbing:
In reply to: It's simply that others (those who started around me) were pretty much continually criticizing me for taking my time, for trying to learn skills rather than get to the top, for spending a lot of time working on grip strength and feeling out and holding different holds on the board, for learning the various knots that are there to learn, sitting with the route setters to learn about that process and how they create it and feel up the holds, and so on.
whats interesting about your method is that it's going to pay off hugely in the long-run. most folks don't do this, and i've found that they generally plateau very quickly and then also have face another large learning curve when they have to go back to the basics on something like knots or other skills.
your method, however, will likely mean that you won't really plateau for quite a while. you will gradually improve over the long run, and eventually you will find yourself to be an avid, experienced climber who is comfortable and adept in the realm of climbing you choose to participate in.
finally, when you're ready (don't give in to pressure), go outside. even though it may be scary at first, trust me, it's an experience not to be missed. go with someone patient and experienced and they will guide you through it all.
have fun, good luck, and enjoy it...climbing is a true joy.
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a_crow
May 27, 2005, 2:03 AM
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yo thanks alot for the good posts in response to "zoebird" i was thinkin some of the same stuff and it was cool that you guys took the time to respond. im just learning about climbing stuff and reading threads like this is major in helping me along my way.
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ryanb
May 27, 2005, 3:18 AM
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Don't be to intimidated by the outdoors. In a lot of the ways it can be easier then the indoors. Gyms tend to have steep walls while many outdoor areas have a lot of clims in the 5.0 to 5.10 range that are not steep at all. Climb's like this take alot more finess and balence then power. Because you are useually suported by your legs it is possible to slowly, searching for the right holds without pumping out and falling. Once you start climbing cracks the situation is further simplified because most of the holds will be in a row in front of you. Further, atempts to power through a hand jam will prove futile, developing the neccasary technique is the only course.
I also find the outdoors to be more "layed back" socially. Gym climbing (and sometimes sport climbing or bouldering) tend to atract people who are comeing at it from an athletic, occasionalyy competative, angle. Outdoors, I have climbed regualarly with people who climb 5.13 and with people who back off on 5.8s. It is more about hanging out with friend outdoors.
A couple of suggestions:
1: If you haven't allready, begin to experiment with dynamic motion. It sounds like you are a very controled, balenced climber (not a bad thing) so this may be a bit of a strech but it may open you up a bit to more fluid, rhythemic modes of motion. Find two large holds one just out of reach of the other. Ideally the motion you wish to execute is not a wild powerfull swing but a slow grace full arc. Feel the second hold...find the position you wish to 'land' in...It may be helpfull to use another hold to climb up and put your body in that position so that you know the feel of it.
Establish yourself on the first hold. Prepare to move to the second hold. You wish to use just enough force to get to the position on the second hold but no more. Ideally you will reach the second hold at the deadpoing of your arc...the point where you are no longer moveing up but have not begun to "fall" back down. At this point you should be able to just grab the other hold and hang on without needing to use a huge amound of force to stop the motion of your body.
To generate this arc, swing away from the second hold (usually down) compresing your legs like springs then swing back up using your legs to generate the motion and your arms to hold your body into the wall. Execute this motion with the same rhythem as a breath, ( occasionaly in rhythem with your breath) Down, up, grab= in, out in. each an unavidable result of the previouse. As you try longer movements remeber to keep yout hands and feet on the wall for almost as long as possible, to generate the motion of your body and then to move one (or both) hands up in the rhythem of the grab.
I hope that makes sense, watch some one who is really good but also short climb a reachy rout or think about how a cat jumps.
2: Don't be afraid of power. Because of all the Yoga you have done you are less likely to be injured then the people around you. (the littel muscles around your joints are probably more in balence). You are also probably more in tune with your body. Use this to choose a point where you need to let go...hanging on when you shouldn't is what causes injury...be willing to push up to this point. In particular be willing to get into situations that you cannot physically maintain for a long period of time but can move into and the out of. Divide a rout at your limit (or better yet a longish boulder problem) up...find a few a "rests" in it concentrate on moveing quickley and effichently between the rests (the positions you can't maintain) recovering your breath, refousing and moveing again.
3: As you say, climbing is hugely sociall and alot of that sociallity involves beer and sillyness. You don't need to drink with people to go out with them and be goofy.
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zoebird
May 29, 2005, 4:12 AM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: May 23, 2005
Posts: 65
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ryan:
thanks for the description and tips. I tend to do that with the bouldering wall (find rests and work from there). And i'm working on the 'J-swing' or "swinging-J" movement--is that what you described? that's what they call it at the gym.
what i really like doing is moving my feet and then sort of swinging up in a fluid, dancer like movement. It's similar to astanga transitions, such as 'jump throughs'--there's lots of control, but also lots of just letting go and letting the body do it.
Before i do this, though, particularly on a new route, i tend to climb up without regard to pathways and feel out each hold (depth perception thing). i feel out each hold and then hang on it with left hand, then with right hand. i try to move off of it to either side and onto it from either side, from slightly above and slightly below in order to get the feel for the hold, moving around it, and moving off of it.
surprisingly, one of the coaches at the gym noticed that i was using my thumbs--which is apparently unusual for beginner girls. I figure--i got em, i might as well use them! so, i think it was a compliment. :)
Anyway, i find that moving my feet is the most fun, because it's light. i also like to just work off of one foot--that's relaly cool. On the one wall in our gym, they have these side-ways routes for practicing foot work and they put the kids through their paces. there are hands-only routes and feet only routes, and then one-foot only routes and so on. They're really challenging and fun.
It's a good time, anyway. :) I'm learning a lot and i feel really great about practicing in this way now. I've gotten a lot of great support here and a lot of good support from experienced climbers at the gym.
THanks so much for your input!
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