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shanz
Sep 24, 2005, 5:28 AM
Post #1 of 2
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Registered: May 18, 2004
Posts: 702
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I am currently a sport/trad/boulderer but know little about ice climbing and looking to get into it was wondering the best way to learn to ice climb. I know that our local crag has a fair amount of ice during the winter(jackson falls IL) was wondering should we set up TR for to learn the moves and such? Also anyone that might do some ice work at Jax feel free to pm me or shoot me an email at shanzerX@gmail.com
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euroford
Sep 24, 2005, 4:15 PM
Post #2 of 2
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
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yes you will definitly be topropping at first. not only is leading ice scary, its expensive. in fact unlike rock, you can't really even get a taste of ice without dropping a VISA on the counter. the real way to do it, is to grab some warm clothes, grab that trusty credit card, and boogy yer butt down to your local ice festival.
this way, even if you learn you hate ice, you'll still have a fun time hanging out, you won't be stuck with any unwanted gear to ebay, and you won't be out hundreds. on the other hand, if you totally dig it, you'll get to try out a bunch of expensive gear that you will later have to order through the mail. check out th up ice fest in munising and of course the ouray ice fest.
if you can't do that, then your gunna need some boots. crampons are adjustable and tools are universal, but you gotta have your own boots if you wanna talk some climber into taking you out topropping for the day. make sure the boots you buy fully crampon compatable, have very riged soles and will keep your feet warm. i've been using the la sportiva makalus for the last couple of years, but i'm thinking of upgrading.
you really should have a pair of crampons, as i'm sure you could guess the bottom of a frozen waterfall is kinda slipery. even if its just the crumy strap on glacier crampons you used for slogging ranier they will help allot for belaying and walking around. otherwise you will have to sit to belay so you won't slip and yank off a leader. your butt will get numb. after a couple of trips, and you have figured out if you dig ice or not, you should have your own crampons. for semi rigid, check out the BD bionic and petzl M10, for rigid check out the grivel rambo's and dmm terminators.
if you dig ice this season, have some tools for next season.
last year we didn't get shit for ice, not even much in wisconsin and it was even a less than stellar year up in the UP. i bet not a drip of climbable ice formed at jackson falls. for the love of god i hope it gets cold and stays cold this year.
keep an eye on your local areas, if it forms up and if you got some boots you shoot me a pm. i'll drive down and take ya ice climbing.
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