|
|
|
|
maculated
Dec 5, 2005, 5:50 AM
Post #1 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
The day started off fairly nicely. We were supposed to be in Red Rocks with our favorite "other" climbing partner, Dan (who you may know from TRs such as "Maculated says, 'Rain? Screw Rain!'" and "Maculated goes to Indian Creek"), but unfortunately that guy had to go and break his foot again hiking his pal out with a broken ankle (long story). So Carrie and I decide to just do a day trip to let the area dry out after a decent rain.
Carrie and I have tried to go to Pinnacles together for the last year but illness always seems to get in the way. Hers, mine, my dog's, I don't know. But this time things were different: namely, no one was sick! Beyond that, I knew we had big plans this day, but little did I know we would make history!
I woke at the crack of dawn to ready myself for an exhilirating day of clipping bolts at "rocks-stuck-in-mud," better known as Pinnacles National Monument. As I scrambled to get my pack in order, I heard the the theme from Masterpiece Theatre: It was Carrie on the line, "I'm at the coffee shop - what do you want?"
Ten minutes later the best climbing partner in the world shows up, eats in tow:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65802
As we climbed the Cuesta Grade and rolled into the flatter lands beyond, the Carrie-mobile YIERPED at us. After my heart quit racing, she found that her German vehicle was alerting us of the "cold weather warning" that it is 37 degrees outside. I wonder at the kind of people the Germans must be to be able to tolerate the shrieking sound that eminates from their vehicles seemingly at random. Had I been merrily driving along, I would have run off the road in surprise. Carrie also tells me of stories in which the car's radio has made ringing noises - apparently the cars have telephone numbers that the owners have not been given. ::shudder::
Anyway, this is California! It should not be that cold! Just last week I was laying out on my lawn in a bikini! As we drive, I notice frost in the shade of the oaks, glad to have the heated seats I made fun of when she purchased this car a few months ago.
As we get off the highway and wend eastward, I delight in building the suspense. "No rock, huh, Carrie?"
"Nope!"
"There should be by now, you'd think, wouldn't you?"
"You would!"
"The truth is, I got you to drive out here so I could kill you."
She's not very gullible.
Anyway, the joke is a good one because it is not until turning the magical corner that the skeptic finds that indeed, maculated is not going to kill her, but is, indeed, taking her to climb. The rocks rise out of the rolling hills in curious reds and greys, spotted with green lichen and grey moss. I direct her up to the upper parking lot even though it is now around 10 - and kablam! Parking spot! Muwahahah!
As we trek up into the rocks, Carrie marvels at the strange beauty of Pinnacles. As we approach the corner that looks out over the gorge, I declare a photo op:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65801
Good Karma for the person that finds sunglasses that don't tweak on my face after a surfing-related nose break.
Once we decide to trek out to the Reservoir and check out "The Hand" and "Frog" for warm ups (Yes, I am FEELING the 5.7 R today!), as we are crossing the bridge a thought occurs to me.
It is not a good thought.
It could very well be one of the few thoughts one about to start climbing would think.
It is . . .
It is . . .
Yegads! I didn't bring my harness!
After a quick unpacking of a very lightly packed pack (say that four times fast), I discover:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65799
Please hire me as an actor. My expressions are very believable.
DOH! I HAVE FORGOTTEN MY HARNESS!!!!!!
AND BELAY DEVICE! Insert expletives here!
Good natured Carries simply offers a characteristic, "Uh oh! Uh heh heh heh heh." But not to worry! I have had similar troubles before! I have packed a cordelette! We shall make a swiss seat and do it the old fashioned way!
While I'm busy assessing the situation, Carrie looks over to the priminent pinnacles reflecting in the pond: "Let's climb that." The unconquerable, the impenetrable. That's right: The First Sister. Goes at a righteous 5.4 on one side and gasp . . . unbelievable . . . 5.5 on the other.
As we approach the face, an idea strikes me. . . I am going to climb this pure. Get away from the trappings of technology and let the capability of woman speak for itself. I am going to do it in old style! With a swiss seat, and a gear sling, and approach shoes! I will belay my second with a munter hitch! I will rappel with a biner brake.
Also, I will do it with pants that will not stand up! As soon as I go to build my swiss seat, the buttons pop off my pants.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65795
Don't get fresh now, those are my thermals for the intolerable cold of Central California!
No matter! First Sister! Be afraid! Be very afraid! I WILL send!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65793
But that's not all . . . I'm going to do something no one has ever done before!
That's right! I am going to attempt The First Sister . . . In A Day!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65790
You know, it's funny. Just before I started, these guys scuttled up to me for a photo. Silly Japanese tourists. Always looking for photos with Americans. Such weird fashion sense, too!
The start is dicey unprotected 5.3 off a block. I'm standing on knobs just barely the size of your fist. It's scary, and it takes me a long time to get to the first ledge. When I get there, I can see the sun is setting, and I know the history of the parties before me - none have been successful in their attempts to summit in a day.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65791
It's easy to back off now, but I won't. I can't.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65800
Carrie tries to deal with the pressure of being a famous climber upon our return from the summit and my posting of this tale.
The light is getting long and I can feel the alpenglow setting in, but I can't, I won't, fail now. As I must my strength, letting out a dignified little, "Nyyyygh!" as I reach for the summit, I know I have done it. It was scary for a while there - no bolts between belay stations and Leepers to protect the crux, but I made it. I stand on the top of the First Sister as the first party to Summit-In-A-Day-In-A-Swiss-Seat-With-No-ATC-And-Wearing-Approach-Shoes-and -Pants-That-May-Not-Stay-On. A proud day!
I get to work, anchor myself in and clip a locking biner to my tie in point. "You are on belay!" Munter hitch away!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65798
Trust me, you can't see it, but my right hand is locked off - up for M! Not down! Down is for Dead!!
When Carrie summits, and we still have daylight, she can barely believe it. This is a day that will live in infamy.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65794
Carrie looks to the horizon, and realizes we've topped out and it's only noon! Surely a world record!
Since we're up in such style and with such time - we realize the only thing to do is to rap back down, bag the rest of the sisters, and then get on with the Trad climbing on Discovery Wall. "Who goes first?" Carrie asks.
Need she ask? As quick as the flash from the light catching my aluminum contraption, I am down the face of the rock old-school style:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65797
If any of you saw this actual process, you may know I'm exaggerating when I say quick. YOU try rigging a brake when you've only seen photos of it.
Once we hit the ground after our last tag of the Sisters, we strut past climbers with our chests out, proud as peacocks. Carrie and I arrive at Discovery Wall with our eye on an even more monumental task - the First Free Ascent of Swallow, 5.6.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65792
That's right! We're not going to clip the fixed pin!
Of course, the story does not end here . . .
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65796
But my PANTS DO!
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Dec 5, 2005, 5:58 AM
Post #2 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
mac- another trophy for you, larry deangelo would be proud!
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Dec 5, 2005, 5:59 AM
Post #3 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
You're fast!
Also, please note swiss seat strung around belt loops to hold pants on. :)
|
|
|
|
|
slavetogravity
Dec 5, 2005, 6:09 AM
Post #4 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 1114
|
In reply to: The start is dicey unprotected 5.3 off a block. I'm standing on knobs just barely the size of your fist. It's scary, and it takes me a long time to get to the first ledge. When I get there, I can see the sun is setting, and I know the history of the parties before me - none have been successful in their attempts to summit in a day.
Funny stuff. :lol:
Another great story from the worlds most famous 5.3 climber.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Dec 5, 2005, 6:13 AM
Post #5 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
:lol: :lol:
Another Maculated TR, another semi-epic. BTW, you don't get to give me shit about only doing 6 routes a day after this little admission. 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
kpalsson
Dec 5, 2005, 2:04 PM
Post #6 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2004
Posts: 127
|
If you want some real munter love, then don't rig it on your harness, and do the proud "Up! not down! for munter" which although right, is just silly. Holding things up is a pain in the arse.
Rig it on the anchor, then down to you, is up to the knot. Less of the joy of holding a pillow on outstretched arms for an hour, and more, "I'm one mean grizzled hairy mountain god!"
Sounds like a good day though :) Sounds like you even planned the story before hand, getting the suitable pictures in advance, instead of making a nice story to go with the day afterwards :)
Cheers,
Karl P
|
|
|
|
|
kubi
Dec 5, 2005, 2:14 PM
Post #7 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2004
Posts: 815
|
are you guys going to be in the next issue of R&I or what?
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
Dec 5, 2005, 3:50 PM
Post #8 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
In reply to: You're fast! Also, please note swiss seat strung around belt loops to hold pants on. :)
i'll confess i saw the pictures in the new photos section and smelled a trip report!
although, if my partner realized i forgot my harness, he would laugh with glee and teach me to tie in with a bowline (not on a coil!) and then i would obviously have to hip belay all day..... :roll:
|
|
|
|
|
cowpoke
Dec 5, 2005, 4:23 PM
Post #9 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2005
Posts: 142
|
funny stuff!! Thanks for the laughs!
|
|
|
|
|
saxfiend
Dec 5, 2005, 5:01 PM
Post #10 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 31, 2004
Posts: 1208
|
Fun TR, Kristin! I'll look forward to the conclusion (there is going to be a Part II, isn't there?).
So, does this make you the female Scary Larry? :D
JL
|
|
|
|
|
ledavis23
Dec 5, 2005, 7:23 PM
Post #11 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2005
Posts: 108
|
Way to go! Even though you left some crucial gear at home, your know-how got you out of it! Chick-climbers everywhere are proud!
|
|
|
|
|
climbinginchico
Dec 5, 2005, 7:51 PM
Post #12 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 3032
|
Instant classic! :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Dec 5, 2005, 8:53 PM
Post #13 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
In reply to: If you want some real munter love, then don't rig it on your harness, and do the proud "Up! not down! for munter" which although right, is just silly.
I thought about that - but there were two reasons I didn't - I had to belay her leads with it "up" on my harness so I figured I'd get the practice in on ground she was not going to fall on, and I also didn't have a real good way to belay from the anchor - not one that made me happy - I was using all my free biners for the brake on the way down. (Yes, we considered the dulfersitz, but I've NEVER tried that . . . )
In reply to: Sounds like you even planned the story before hand, getting the suitable pictures in advance, instead of making a nice story to go with the day afterwards :
Actually, not really. When something stupid happened I would stop for the photo, but a lot of those had nothing to do with the story until I got home. I will admit, of course, we planned the In-A-Day photo because of how truly bad ass I was being all day. :)
And no, no part II, I just had to find a way to work in the conclusionary photo . . . :)
|
|
|
|
|
shogun
Dec 5, 2005, 10:00 PM
Post #14 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2002
Posts: 107
|
hey mac:
why the undy change? button picture shows black and the last photo show pink...
-=g=-
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Dec 5, 2005, 11:50 PM
Post #15 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
LOL, good eye. It warmed up, I took off the thermals. All the better for you!
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Dec 6, 2005, 2:24 AM
Post #16 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
Very funny, thanks!
GO
|
|
|
|
|
climbsomething
Dec 6, 2005, 2:58 AM
Post #17 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
|
Next time you've get a slingshot TR set up, why don't you try the foot belay? Curt can hook you up 8-)
|
|
|
|
|
baja_java
Dec 6, 2005, 3:13 AM
Post #18 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2003
Posts: 680
|
nice pointing form. good to see fellow pointers out there carrying on and honoring all those who have pointed before us
|
|
|
|
|
gordo
Dec 6, 2005, 3:31 AM
Post #19 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2005
Posts: 111
|
Funny stuff...sounds like fun in every way :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
superflea
Dec 7, 2005, 9:48 PM
Post #20 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 23, 2005
Posts: 49
|
Loved the TR. It reminds me of some of the best times with my friends (including the day angelaa and I shared one pair of climbing shoes on a multipitch route).
|
|
|
|
|
g-funk
Deleted
Dec 7, 2005, 10:15 PM
Post #21 of 21
(5797 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
That one photo with those Japanese tourists almost looks like it has been altered. Is it an original?
Great TR :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
|
