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freakontr
Dec 30, 2005, 7:53 PM
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Hi,
I'm trying to put together a "hit list" of must do free climbs in Yosemite for the summer. About 10-20 climbs, nothing harder than 9 (for now). I've never climbed there so maybe start off with munginella or something. Does anyone have any inputs?
Thanks.
Mickey
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jeapord
Dec 30, 2005, 8:13 PM
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Check out Supertopo books or the website, you will find them there.
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areuinclimber
Dec 30, 2005, 8:25 PM
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snake dike (5.7)
royal arches (5.7)
commitment (5.9)
selaginella (5.8 but do the .9 start)
knurdle (5.8) TR sherries crack (.10c) if your not leading that hard
ejesta (5.8)
reeds direct (5.9)
regular route on higher cathedral spire (5.9) but do the salathe (?) variation start.
anything in your range at the base of el cap
peruvian flake (soft .10a)
the 5.8 corner on five and dime cliff
stay off of swan slabs becuase its a polished mess, the climbs are short and not that exciting.
dont keep food in your pack to much or it'll get ravaged by squirrels, hanging your pack in a tree is useless, this is mainly around manure pile butress.
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mtnjohn
Dec 30, 2005, 9:05 PM
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How could leave off so many classics"
- Nut Cracker
- Central Pillar of Fenzy
- Bishops Terrace
- Commitment
- Braille Book
- Higher Cathedral Spire
There's just to many to try and list
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sspssp
Dec 30, 2005, 9:37 PM
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In reply to: How could leave off so many classics" ... There's just to many to try and list
Did you answer your own question?
cheers
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mtnjohn
Dec 30, 2005, 10:03 PM
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touche'
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vegastradguy
Dec 30, 2005, 10:17 PM
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lessee, everything listed.
make sure to check out After 7, a great line and good fun and rarely has the lines of its neighbor- Nutcracker.
Swan Slabs has loads of great climbs, albeit a bit short. Lena's Lieback and Grant's Crack are favorites of mine. I wouldnt call it a bad crag- its also a two minute walk from Camp 4- great for rest days.
the ST is prolly the best book for 'must-do's' in yos- pick it up and use it to assemble a great trip.
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clintcummins
Dec 30, 2005, 11:04 PM
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In reply to: Hi, I'm trying to put together a "hit list" of must do free climbs in Yosemite for the summer. About 10-20 climbs, nothing harder than 9 (for now). I've never climbed there so maybe start off with munginella or something. Does anyone have any inputs?
Why wait until summer? If you wait that long, it will be rather hot in Yosemite Valley. But there are lots of climbs in your range in Tuolumne Meadows, which is nice in the summer and also in Yosemite.
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climbingaz
Dec 30, 2005, 11:55 PM
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Anything on Manure Pile would be a good start.
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g-funk
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Dec 31, 2005, 1:31 AM
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Eichornīs Pinnacle is cool too. Super easy, and great vista and exposure.
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kalcario
Dec 31, 2005, 2:29 AM
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don't forget the mandatory Yosemite 5.9 baptism-by-fire 2nd pitch of Reed's Direct
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freakontr
Dec 31, 2005, 5:09 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Hi, I'm trying to put together a "hit list" of must do free climbs in Yosemite for the summer. About 10-20 climbs, nothing harder than 9 (for now). I've never climbed there so maybe start off with munginella or something. Does anyone have any inputs? Why wait until summer? If you wait that long, it will be rather hot in Yosemite Valley. But there are lots of climbs in your range in Tuolumne Meadows, which is nice in the summer and also in Yosemite.
I'm going to school in Wyoming, won't be back in California until May.
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salamanizer
Dec 31, 2005, 6:18 AM
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MAYThe best climbing of the season is over by may. I was there last weekend with no one in camp 4 and no lines on anything on the cookie or Acrc rock. Granted you have to know where to climb during the off season but to limit yourself to the summer months in the valley is to miss the prime of what the valley has to offer. Personally I avoid the Valley like the plague in the summer months. Touloumne too, accept anything slab, anything harder than 5.11 or some of the back country stuff.
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le_bruce
Dec 31, 2005, 8:04 AM
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1. Central Pillar of Frenzy
2. Reed's Direct
3. Bishop's Terrace
Yosemite really opens up when you break into the .10 range. If you can do Reed's, it's time to try some of the .10 classics: Sacherer Cracker, Moby Dick, Outer Limits all have excellent protection and are good for pushing one's limits.
Good trip to you!
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mtnfr34k
Dec 31, 2005, 9:30 AM
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Do a google search for "bridwell brave new world" and you'll find Jim Bridwell's classic article about the benchmark 5.9 climbs in the Valley. Good luck!
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slab-dyno
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Jan 1, 2006, 5:53 AM
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One more vote for "Central Pillar of Frenzy."
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stymingersfink
Jan 1, 2006, 6:38 PM
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Arrowhead Arete 5.8 (6 pitches)
Killer exposure, excellent "sidewalk" pitch to exit, two (or was it three?) free-hanging raps involved in the descent (down the gully to the west).
On the north sided of the ditch, up behind the grey-bar hotel. Plan for an early start, or you'll be making the descent in the dark.
My first taste of technical climbing involved seconding this route back in '95. Loved every minute of it! One of these days I'll return to lead it. Maybe this is the year to do so...
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