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up_for_a_good_time
Feb 1, 2006, 9:59 PM
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Has anyone climbed or attempted the Eiger? I am seriously contemplating an attempt on the North Face in June this year. Not quite sure about which route yet, but I would greatly appreciate any information regarding anyone's ascent - successful or not! Additionally, if anyone is qualified and is interested, let me know. I'm looking for a teammate. Thanks.
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iceisnice
Feb 1, 2006, 10:41 PM
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shit man, i can't even find people with the motivation to tackle local mountains let alone something abroad. best of luck to ya.
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criscokid
Feb 1, 2006, 10:55 PM
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I'm really curious how the face climbs now that the ice is all gone. You should call rock and ice and do a feature for them. maybe even get a little funding.
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toml
Feb 2, 2006, 1:59 PM
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Are you nuts? June? Do you have a death wish?
You'll be lucky - VERY lucky - to get a solid enough freeze to make the thing safe enough to contemplate climbing.
Most folks hit it in winter - much better and more reliable conditions. If you're going to make a trip there from DC for the purpose of climbing it, go in winter - or make it a LONG trip to give you a better chance of hitting a decent weather window.
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tradman
Feb 2, 2006, 4:34 PM
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Ditto Toml.
Eiger North Face is VERY VERY DANGEROUS. There is near-continuous stonefall, especially in summer, and major rock falls have been seen in all of the last 3 summers.
Even the easiest route on the Nordwand (1938-heckmair) is hard and contains three nasty traverses which are extremely difficult to reverse. The harder lines (and especially the Harlin Direct) are atrociously hard and dangerous, and as far as I know were all done in winter.
I don't wish to sound patronising or offensive, as I have no idea who you are, but I'll stick my neck out and say this: if you're good enough to climb the nordwand, you'll certainly have access to better and more informative sources than this board. I'm sorry to say that if you don't have access to the kinds of people and literature that you need, then you're almost certainly not ready for the Eiger.
:oops:
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up_for_a_good_time
Feb 2, 2006, 9:45 PM
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Tradman, you are most certainly correct. However, the 1938 team didn't have too much access to prior sources or information before they made the first ascent as the six members of the '35 Sedlmayer/Mehringer and '36 Hinterstoisser teams respectively all perished on the mountain. With the rockfall more common in recent years, the climb is, of course, very dangerous. I have the entire month of June to wait out for stable weather and I will do my best to climb only under the best conditions. Lastly, posts on rc.com is surely not my only source of information. I wish curious to hear from anyone whose attempted in the past. Thanks for the input. I'm looking forward to June.
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chip
Feb 2, 2006, 11:59 PM
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I recommend you read the following books:
"The White Spider", Harrer
"New Horizons", Bonnington
"The Beckoning Silence", Simpson
If you still want to climb it... WHY? There's so much other stuff to do that doesn't qualify as Russian roulette for climbers. I live a couple of hours from the Big E, but it's off my list.
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iceravines
Feb 3, 2006, 4:53 AM
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I am sure Jeff Lowe had put up a route on the North face called Metanoia.. if Im not mistaken. I agree with the others that June is too late for that type of approach. February or March at the lastest would be a lot safer and be prepared for A5,M6 and 5.10 climbing. There are other routes that are safer but what you are looking at is 1 of the hardest routes ever done in the Alps . Lowe did this solo and you may have to seek his beta for Metanoia. Good luck. Send a pm regarding when & where. Depends on the cash available
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mig
Feb 10, 2006, 4:32 PM
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Next middle March, I will take my 3ª try of climbing the Eiger North face.
I tried it in June, 2003 and the all wall was fatal. The dry year put all mountain in extreme dangerous conditions.
Last year (2005) I tried in Winter (March). The weather was fine, but the high temperature in that week (some weeks before the temperature was frozen, but that week...so hot!) and we quit because the extremely soft and deep snow.
I hope this year we can find the good conditions to climb this huge and hard mountain.
Wish me luck...
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seanhabgood
Feb 12, 2006, 5:38 AM
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I was thinking about climbing the Eiger in August. I looked into it from people who have climbed it and other rock there and they all told me it was a relay bad idea. The best time with weather patterns was March on ice.
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rongoodman
Feb 12, 2006, 6:02 PM
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There's an article in the March edition of Rock and Ice about how global warming has affected many of the classic climbs in the Alps, due in part to the loss of the permafrost. You should take a look at the current and past pictures of the Eigerwand.
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brianri
Feb 12, 2006, 6:25 PM
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I attempted the Northeast Pillar Austrian Route in July. We made it up a couple of thousand feet before spending a very cold bivy and retreating the next day due to waterfalls from the melting snow from the summit snowfields. This route is suppose to be relatively safe from falling rocks as it is a buttress. I was regularly pulling off rocks and protection was non-existent or worthless. Bring lots of pitons with you. We left 15 of them up there building anchors when we retreated. We ended up summitting via the Mitelleggi ridge which is a worthy consolation prize. If you attempt anyting on the north side I would go in late August or early September after all the snow has melted. Email me if you want specific details.
Brian
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far_east_climber
Feb 12, 2006, 7:28 PM
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Yargh, I hate asking this, but what is the 'agreed' grade of the 1938 route?
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brianri
Feb 12, 2006, 9:24 PM
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Grades have no meaning on alpine routes like this. That said, the guidebook has the 1938 route at ED2.
Brian
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smoothicity
Feb 14, 2006, 7:19 AM
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Wow, dude...too cold for me. Anyone see that German guy solo the 5.11d grade not too long ago. Wicked. The best of luck with the Eiger. I skied at its base there in Switzerland last spring break. Beautiful country.
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josephgdawson
Feb 14, 2006, 8:27 AM
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You want to do the North Face of the Eiger? I'm calling bullshit on that.
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alpine_monk
Feb 14, 2006, 8:47 AM
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In reply to: You want to do the North Face of the Eiger? I'm calling s--- on that. |
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chris_sheridan
Feb 14, 2006, 3:05 PM
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In reply to: You want to do the North Face of the Eiger? I'm calling s--- on that.
The type of person you probably admire got to be that way by ignoring people like you.
Hats off, and good luck to Up_For_A_Good_Time.
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cindylou
Feb 14, 2006, 3:14 PM
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In reply to: I recommend you read the following books: "The White Spider", Harrer "New Horizons", Bonnington "The Beckoning Silence", Simpson If you still want to climb it... WHY? There's so much other stuff to do that doesn't qualify as Russian roulette for climbers. I live a couple of hours from the Big E, but it's off my list.
Don't forget:
"Eiger: Wall of Death", Roth
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alpine_monk
Feb 15, 2006, 8:39 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I recommend you read the following books: "The White Spider", Harrer "New Horizons", Bonnington "The Beckoning Silence", Simpson If you still want to climb it... WHY? There's so much other stuff to do that doesn't qualify as Russian roulette for climbers. I live a couple of hours from the Big E, but it's off my list. Don't forget: "Eiger: Wall of Death", Roth
Dorian
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smoothicity
Feb 23, 2006, 9:00 PM
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Besides the rockfall adding particularly dangerous conditions, is the actual climbing anything like Matterhorn or any other nearby peaks? I understand the Eiger is just flat-out dangerous, but I just understand why it retains such an infamous reputation. Is it just about the rockfall and exposure?
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mikes
Feb 23, 2006, 9:47 PM
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there are some great climbs on the right side of the north face. All somewhat safe from the rockfall but none of them come close to the high point of the Eiger. I climbed on of these in 2001 during August and we had tons of snow and 25 F. You would be very lucky to find good conditions within only one months time.
Good luck!
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seanhabgood
Feb 24, 2006, 1:47 PM
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Hey up_for_a_good_time are you still going for the climb and would you also like to climb the other peaks in the area? I talked to the German who was referenced in the thread Ueli Steck he is Swiss i think. He said it was possible, but winter gives you better conditions. The winter freezes the rock reducing the fall and there are no thunder storms. He said that it was about 10 hours up and that starting at midnight would be the best time. the start time makes sense it would put you at the top at around noon and start you down before the thunder storms build. I would like to climb with you if you are still looking for someone. If the north face is not safe the minter ridge is a good route to get around the rock fall. I would like to do a training climb if you are up for it the longs peak diamond would be good I have a place to crash just out side Rock Mountain National Park. The diamond is a day to hike up and a day of climbing. If you really are up for it drop me a line. Sean
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