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mrnmibrc
Jul 11, 2006, 9:22 PM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2006
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Does anyone have any tips on setting anchors at this climbing site?
They have single eyelet bolt anchors which make me nervous.
I just ran some webbing through the eyelet and secured it into a sling with a water knot backed up with half hitches. Then tied a loop in the bight and clipped in two opposing petzl spirits. I climbed on this setup, but I still wish I could have backed up my anchor. I've had redundancy hammered into my head since the first day I started climbing and then I'm confronted with this!!
please help
By the way I think that the route information on this site is wrong because they say to anchor into two eyelet bolts but the bolts are spaced too far apart for that. They are obviously intended to be one bolt per climb.
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gonzo78793
Jul 11, 2006, 9:51 PM
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I would not worry about it that much. Those single bolts are solid, and if it blows!#@#$ It is only about 12 ft. down you should be ok! You could back the bolt up with some webbing to a tree? Or get a few hex's or stoppers and use those? :roll:
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ubiestmea
Jul 11, 2006, 10:46 PM
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You can totally use both of the eyelets. All you need is some webbing and some basic anchor setup knowledge. A sliding X works really well, just tie stopper knots to stop extension should one anchor fails. However, the eyelets are 3/4 inch steel closed eye bolts and should hold a dump truck.
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fmd
Jul 12, 2006, 1:06 AM
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You can use both the anchor bolts that are there. That is why there are two anchors for each site. Even the "black" site has two steel anchors for this. If you want, you can us a tree as a back up and the park rangers has yet to say anything to me, as long as you use them as backups only. I wouldnt listen to Tobin as for the 12 feet, there are sites that run 60 feet there. Tobin I think is just used to Hocking Hills :o . Any who, I'll be there this weekend at the blue site and I can show you some different ways of setting up using one, or two anchors if you want...
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whitribj
Jul 18, 2006, 12:33 PM
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I have only run across one anchor point that had only one bolt. I backed up on a tree there.
For every thing else I girth hitch each bolt with 4 foot sling of webbing to a locking biner. This works pretty well.
I usually would prefer to use a sliding X on this but you have to clip the bolts with biners to be able to tie the knots in it to prevent the extension if one side blows. With the bolts being so large a standard biner doesn't cut it.
If you are still interested, pm me and I will take some pics next time I'm up there in the coming weeks.
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chh
Jul 18, 2006, 1:36 PM
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Every site out there, as far as I know, has two bolts. This isn't to say that they are placed in the best position, or aren't half buried by the dirt. Some of them don't make much sense. If you think you only have one bolt at a sight just look way further back than you think is sensible and you will find it. Perhaps whoever put them there was looking for the best rock, I don't know.
If you are using fixed slings you are going to limit what you can climb to the sites where 4 feet is actually enough to get from each bolt to the edge of the cliff, which may not be all of them. And, at some of the sites, these will not be equalized unless you knot one of your slings, which is of course, doable.
The sliding x can be helpful out there as there are a couple of places where you can do slightly different climbs by swinging the anchor point around, but I'd hate to think about the extension. And also, you'd need a lot of webbing to do that at some of the sites. Allthough, I agree, I don't think those rings are going anywhere.
Usually I just take a 20 foot section or so of 1 inch webbing and tie a water knot to each ring and equalize them with an over hand where I want the biners to hang. Kind of like a web-o-lette only with just 2 anchor points instead of 3. I guess you could use an overhand at the rings as well and clip in which would be faster, but I think sometimes the biners lay strangely because the rings are into horizontal rock instead of vertical rock.
In reply to: I wouldnt listen to Tobin as for the 12 feet, there are sites that run 60 feet there.
Man, you have to tell me where you are climbing at John Bryan because I'm fairly certain none of the TR spots are 60 feet. There are 60 foot cliffs in John Bryan, and in Clifton Gorge, but they don't have the anchors on top (unfortunately). If you look hard, there were some old bolted lines down in Clifton. But they were chopped, except for one where you can still see the manky 1/4 inchers. I wouldn't clip them though. And, you might get in a little trouble if you get caught TRing from anyplace other than the designated areas. At least in Clifton anyway since they designated most anything off trail as a wilderness rehabilitation area.
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whitribj
Jul 18, 2006, 1:54 PM
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I think at Blue or Green C is the only place i haven't been able to find the second bolt. I know it as the third set of anchors and I am lening more towards Blue.
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whitribj
Jul 18, 2006, 1:57 PM
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I thought clifton was closed to climbing. Can you point me to any more info, I would be interested in heading up there.
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chh
Jul 18, 2006, 2:29 PM
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I thought clifton was closed to climbing.In reply to: Clifton IS closed to climbing. Hasn't been any legal climbing there for a number of years. fmd also made a good point about the size of the rings if you choose to try and clip in with a locker at the rings. The gate opening on many lockers is too small. I think my Petzl William would probably fit, or any larger pear biner. But, knots are free and don't really take any more time. A friend of mine repainted the bolts last year, but even after a year it's kind of hard to tell the difference between "green" and "blue". I honestly don't really remember which color is which site. We have our own names for the climbs since it's more fun that way anyhow. "Avuncular Monkey" is way better than "4c" or "Yellow". About all that "guide" pamphlet is good for is giving you a rough idea of how many climbing spots there are and where they are located. It reads more like an Eagle Scout project than something written by a climber. If you are looking for a ring, I know I've had to partially dig one out once or twice. It's there. |
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whitribj
Jul 18, 2006, 2:48 PM
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the Omega jake works well. They have the largest gate clearance I have found on a biner.
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llama_grl
Aug 7, 2006, 7:43 PM
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I am new to climbing! However, totally in love and want to learn all that I can. Been climbing outdoors a few times, always with knowledgable folks. However, would like to learn more about setting anchors and start putting my gear together so that I can hone my skills, lol! It's a good place to start outside at John Bryan Park.
Would anybody be interested in getting a group together with hopefully a couple of wonderful and knowledgable folks to learn how to set good anchors and rapelling from this site? And well of course climb?
I climb indoors two to three hours twice a week. Been to Vertical adventures in columbus, Lifetime in columbus and Urban Krag in Dayton.
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whitribj
Aug 7, 2006, 7:55 PM
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Registered: Jun 16, 2006
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sure llama, I wouldn't mind heading up there again sometime soon.
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envirogeek
Aug 12, 2006, 3:57 PM
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My friend and I climb at John Bryan all the time. We use both eyelets with each climb. Our set up included a 'biner on each eyelet (tied with a figure 8), with a "Y" style set-up, we tie a figure 8 in the middle to distribute the force and use 2 'biners opposite at the end for the rope to slide through. This has worked well for every wall we have tried there. We feel safe using this set up and with minor adjustments for each wall doesn’t take too long to set up.
Hope this helps!
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llama_grl
Aug 13, 2006, 3:44 AM
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:twisted: Um! Just like the face!
Hey, it sounds great!
I think August 26th or that Sunday, I will be available. Out of town this coming weekend.
So what do you think? :idea:
Labor Day is the following which again, I am gone! However, the next couple I am available. Third week in September, climbing @ Seneca. Going to try a little trad climbing :shock: :roll: :wink: :twisted:
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