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islandclimber
Feb 2, 2007, 6:34 PM
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Registered: May 2, 2004
Posts: 94
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I'm planning to give this route a go when the weather improves. Just wondering if anyone out there has done it and can supply any beta, particulary tricky parts? gear reccomendations? etc..
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yetanotherdave
Feb 2, 2007, 10:04 PM
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Registered: Mar 19, 2005
Posts: 243
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not yet, hoping to get on it soon, if the weather co-operates. What's your timeline?
I will say that you should absolutely have your camera out for the descent. If you have a partner, the guy with the haulbag should go first, and the other should get the shot of them riding the pig over the roof. I missed that after Ten Years After, will definitely be ready next time I'm up there with company. UB will probably be solo, tho, so it'll have to wait for Humpty Dumpty...
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peas
Feb 12, 2007, 11:14 PM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Mar 30, 2002
Posts: 400
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When I did it, we didn't have anything above a #3 camalot. The last pitch was a bit of a conundrum because of this. It would have gone easier with a 3.5 camalot (grey). Apart from that, nothing unusual. Bring some medium to large heads in case anything has blown out of the Black Sickle (p10 of Maddaloni's guide).
None of the climbing is particularly tricky, and no single pitch stands out in difficulty.
If you're hauling a bag, leave it on Flake Ledge until after the 10c traverse, then haul from there. You may need to extend your haul line. Maddaloni suggests fixing two ropes to flake ledge from the top of Golden Throat Charmer (the next pitch), but I haven't tried that.
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