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zibircut
Apr 24, 2007, 7:04 PM
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I have been trying to find an online resource to figure out how to set up a Texas prusik system, and what is needed for the same....
Any help?
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ocary
Apr 24, 2007, 7:13 PM
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Freedom of the Hills lays it out for you.
I learned from the book and trying it out. Haven't died yet.
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altelis
Apr 24, 2007, 7:59 PM
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ocary wrote: Freedom of the Hills lays it out for you. I learned from the book and trying it out. Haven't died yet.
i fully agree, and a lot of my technical rigging knowledge/experience comes from reading then applying in the real world, many times "stepping" up the risk----on the ground in my living room, on the ground next to to the cliff, on a line with a back up, then finally "real world conditions"----and as my experience grows and so does my ability to look at and judge more complex rigging systems for safety problems, sometimes its read and apply 2 pitches up.....
BUT "haven't died yet?"
smoked all my life, haven't died yet.....
done meth all my life, haven't died yet.....
get absolutely sh&t faced and drive home, haven't died yet....
man, these all must be safe activities, right
good idea (get FOH), terrible reasoning!
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reg
Apr 24, 2007, 8:08 PM
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zibircut wrote: I have been trying to find an online resource to figure out how to set up a Texas prusik system, and what is needed for the same.... Any help?
are you refering to having a long cord for the feet and a short cord for the harness?
if so use 7mm accessory cord - two lenghts: 5' for the foot loop, 3' for the harness loop. tie each lenght of cord into a loop using triple fishermans knots. now use prusik knott (http://www.animatedknots.com/...ww.animatedknots.com) to attach each loop to rope - use locker on harness to attach harness loop to harness (suggest not using belay/rapel loop), arrange harness loop prusik above leg loop prusik. stand up in the leg loop then slide/raise harness loop prusik knot high as you can on the rope (may have to loosen prusik a bit to slide up rope) - then sit on harness loop putting weight on prusik - slide/raise leg loop prusik all the way to harness loop prusik and stand up and slide harness loop prusik up rope. progress up rope. you may need to adjust prusiks as you go to keep them dressed and neat.
hope i haven't wasted anyones time if it ain't the right system 
(This post was edited by reg on Apr 24, 2007, 8:12 PM)
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ocary
Apr 24, 2007, 8:10 PM
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Woah. Simmer down. Was a smartass comment. I forget people here don't know me in real life and would know the intonation to use in that.
There was discussion I was part of recently about learning from books vs learning from class vs learning from somebody not an AMGA certified guide. This was a reference to that.
And, yes, I am big fan of the 'step up' approach. I rigged the texas system and a variety of other techniques for various things in the living room, then at the base, then got on ropes.
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altelis
Apr 24, 2007, 8:21 PM
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this really isn't the texas prusik system, reg, this is just using a short loop for your waist and a single long loop for your foot----
when using friction hitches/ascenders as your primary means of being "on belay" you need 2 points of attachment---which is whyy when juggin we are daisied to BOTH jugs, not just one.....
SOOOO, begin with one "short" prussik loop, tied like a normal prussik and attached to your waist. this will keep your waist from going down rather than up...
now for the slightly more complicated one, the "foot prussik"...instead you want one strand of prussik cord that reaches from approx your nose to the ground. now, in the "middle", actually about 1/3 from one end (you'll need to play around with this one), tie an alpine butterfly (or 8 on a bight, but the butterfly is easier to untie if you need to use for something else, eg moving it off a glacier rig to be used in a crevasse rescue haul system).
the butterfly's loop should be JUST big enough to tie a prussik knot with.
now, on the shorter section's end you want to tie a figure eight on a bight whose loop is just big enough to accomidate a biner, this is what you will use to clip the prussik to your waist, thereby giving redundancy to the system
on the end of the longer section you will tie a loop knot of your preference, whose tail doesn't need to be long as this loop is simply to hold your foot in place and doesn't actually do any safety work. there are a number of ways to deal with the foot section---
the most simple is to tie a large enough loop that your foot fits in and just stand
the more complicated but more comfortable way is to tie a small loop, pull a bight through this loop and now you have a stirrup--if you put the knot on the inside of your foot (if you are wearing boots) the bight tightens, keeps the foot prussik on your foot and keeps you upright
again, the prussik of the foot prussik must go ABOVE the waist prussik on the rope being ascended
have fun
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PaulSiegel
Apr 25, 2007, 12:59 AM
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As a caver I've ascended on prussicks before, it ain't fun but you can do it. I'd actual recommend making two feet prussicks. i.e. ones that when tied reach from your feet to your waist attachment and have a back up to your harness. the method altelis has is great, just make two. make sure that the top prussick or "short" prussick reaches only about to your nose from your waist attachment, nothing worse the leaning back on to it and not being able to reach it again. This method yields 3 independent attachments to the rope.
Clear as mud? I'd get On Rope 2nd edition by Bruce Smith and Allen Padgett. everything you'll every want to know about descending and ascending.
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cintune
Apr 25, 2007, 1:27 AM
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Yep, prusiks are great and all, but using ascenders is a whole lot easier, and by adding a pulley to your top (foot loop) attachment and running the rope from the harness attachment up to the pulley and back down you can set up a nice ratchet to help with the "standing up" part of the process.
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waynew
Apr 25, 2007, 4:39 PM
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The industry standard for ascending systems is On Rope, written by Bruce Smith and ? You can usually find it at the Public Library, and its worth the trip. Or you can (should) buy your own copy from his company OnRope1. Good folks and quite knowledgable (blatant plug complete)
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