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taydude
Aug 15, 2007, 6:31 PM
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I'm looking into getting a pair of sportivas. I've demo'd the katana. They felt good but a lil narrow. The sales rep told me the kumos are similar but wider. the kumos also look like they heel hook better. Has anyone tried these shoes? How do they fit compared to the katanas? do they stretch a lot? thanks for any input
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silascl
Aug 15, 2007, 9:46 PM
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Here's the email exchange I had with Sportiva on the Kumo/Katana comparison:
In reply to: Hi, I've been climbing in a pair of Katanas for the past 10 months (my first pair of climbing shoes) and the toe is starting to blow out. I'm looking for some new shoes, but on a bit more of a budget. I'm mostly climbing indoors, but also some outdoor bouldering and sport climbing. Nothing too overhung. I'm looking at the Kumos, and wonder if they would be a big change from my current shoes. The midsole and sole specs seem similar, so I'm unsure on how different the edging and overall feel would be. If I do decide to get these, I'm wondering if I should go down a half size to compensate for some of the leather stretch? Thanks for the help
In reply to: Hello, The kumo will not be much like your katanas. It will be alot stiffer and probably will not be as sensative as your katanas either. It can be sized the same but seems to fit a little narrower then the katana as well. I hope this info helps you in your search. Thanks Justin
My experience with the Katanas was that the heel didn't fit me very well and had a tendency to slide off when heel hooking very hard. Otherwise I really liked the shoes.
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wax
Aug 16, 2007, 3:03 PM
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really, unless the sportiva's (any of their shoes) fit your feet comfortably, there's no real point in getting them... unless you refuse to buy any other brand.
my personal experience, i found katana's too stiff.
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musicman1586
Aug 16, 2007, 9:51 PM
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wax wrote: really, unless the sportiva's (any of their shoes) fit your feet comfortably, there's no real point in getting them... unless you refuse to buy any other brand.
Wow, what a useless statement? Isn't that true of any company or shoe? And you offer no further explanation as to why you seem to be knocking la sportiva either.
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wax
Aug 16, 2007, 10:01 PM
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wow... okay, am not knocking sportiva. just sayin that if one were to try on a shoe and found it, for example, too narrow, it may not be the right shoe.
yeah, it seems like a redundant statement, and i'm sorry if that set you off.
BAAAAAAAACK to the original question... what kind of boulderring do you typically enjoy? A stiffer shoe may help in certain situations...
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campo
Sep 4, 2007, 4:20 PM
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I was always a fan of the Katana, but I agree, the heel is a bit narrow. Do, however keep in mind that they will stretch a little once you get them. I had a bit of a problem getting my heel to settle in at first, but after a few months, they stretched to the point where they fit my foot. Of course, comfort has nothing to do with it, at least for me.
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secretninja
Sep 4, 2007, 4:25 PM
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IF you're stuck on sportivas, take a look at the testarossas...i found to be quite confortable for a agressively downturned shoe
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secretninja
Sep 4, 2007, 5:53 PM
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*comfortable
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give_r
Sep 7, 2007, 10:49 PM
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I'm not a big fan of the way the sportiva shoes I've bought held up. They've always peeled like crazy. On my katanas the whole heel peeled off. Disappointing to pay top dollar and get lousy shoes.
If I had to choose between the katana and the kuma it'd be the katanas, the kuma's are the rental shoes at the gym I work at, they're not very good at all. Stiff sole, not sensitive, flat. They are on the other hand durable..
NS
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secretninja
Sep 8, 2007, 8:29 PM
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I dunno man...i've never had durability issues with my shoes. I've always managed to get atleast 9-12 month of hard climbing in before the rubber wears down to the leather and i replace them. Are the peels resoles? if not i'd be tempted to take them back and write that pair off as a bad batch...
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james_climber
Sep 8, 2007, 9:07 PM
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taydude wrote: I'm looking into getting a pair of sportivas. I've demo'd the katana. They felt good but a lil narrow. The sales rep told me the kumos are similar but wider. the kumos also look like they heel hook better. Has anyone tried these shoes? How do they fit compared to the katanas? do they stretch a lot? thanks for any input
I think it depends of your feet, in my case i have tried lots lots of brands and shoes, and katanas is the best i have.
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give_r
Sep 9, 2007, 8:12 PM
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Not resoles, new shoes. I've had the same thing happen to friends of mine, especially with katanas where the whole heel will peel off, within two weeks of climbing in one case. Maybe they send the bad batches to Nova Scotia...
NS
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secretninja
Sep 10, 2007, 12:47 AM
Post #13 of 17
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There's no way a delamination in two weeks is a durability issue; its a defect. take those suckers back. Sounds like a bad batch of glue/glue application to me
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mheyman
Sep 10, 2007, 2:09 AM
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give_r wrote: Not resoles, new shoes. I've had the same thing happen to friends of mine, especially with katanas where the whole heel will peel off, within two weeks of climbing
Either they were highly abused or they are defective . If defective take them back. They should wear out, not fall apart
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mitchgripgrabber
Sep 10, 2007, 2:10 AM
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Registered: Mar 14, 2006
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Katanas are awesome. I have had 5-6 pairs and all have been resoled once and a couple twice. Climb anything and everything in them.
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climbordie7
Sep 10, 2007, 2:14 AM
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Registered: Jul 21, 2007
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both of those suck in my opinion, the best shoes i have ever had were the mad rock locos, they are durable, with good sticky rubber that won't shred. but that isn't the new locos with the fire on the toes it is the old ones with the white and white rubber mesh over the fabric. the over is the 5.10 verdes.
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wax
Sep 11, 2007, 8:37 PM
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Registered: Jan 6, 2005
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wait untill the Miura's come out in Velcro.
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