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chedontsurf
Sep 27, 2007, 11:37 AM
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I'm gonna start doing some roped soloing on ice this winter and I'm trying to work out some concerns. With the long approaches here in WY, weight is a major concern. I'll be using a mammut Serenity or a Sterling Nano(is that out yet?) with a grigri. Do I need to back the grigri up with an ascender or something? Anyway, for full rope rappels, I was thinking about getting 70m(factoring in 60m climbing rope elongation) of 7mm cord. Is that too thin? Can I go thinner?
If anyone can help me out or has a better way of doing the thing, let me know.
p.s. don't tell me to sack up and just solo it w/o the rope. I've soloed WI3+. This is for longer, more technical routes.
thanks.
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Crimsonghost
Sep 27, 2007, 12:05 PM
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If you're just going to use the cord as a way to retrieve your rope after abseiling, then you could go thinner, down to maybe 5mm. If you're planning on putting weight on the cord, then maybe go with 7mm for peace of mind. Bear in mind though, a really thin cord can be hard to pull with cold hands/winter gloves on.
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anykineclimb
Sep 27, 2007, 5:41 PM
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Are the Serenity and Nano even thick enough for a Grigri?
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tradmanclimbs
Sep 27, 2007, 5:50 PM
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Rope solo on ice is APINTA how sure can you be that your iced up rope is going to work in the gri gri? The beauty of ice is that you can free solo pretty safly a grade or so below your lead level
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majid_sabet
Sep 27, 2007, 6:00 PM
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Based on what I seen, GG and ATC are the worse two belay devices for frozen ropes
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ryanb
Sep 27, 2007, 6:05 PM
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I have a 9.4, my (worn) gri gri only locks up with a little tension from the break hand. There was an accient in WA a few years ago where a gri gri failed on an icey thinnish line. I think a gri gri would be basically useless for soling on a possibly icy 9mm. I don't roped solo enough to be able to recommend a better solution though.
Some people I know use 5.5 mm tech cord for raping. It is super expensive but seems to work.
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tradmanclimbs
Sep 27, 2007, 6:07 PM
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Tech cord gets weaker with repeted bending. Assume that would be a bad choice as a rap line?
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extreme_actuary
Sep 27, 2007, 6:42 PM
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Is it acceptable to use GriGri's on ice? Too high of an impact force for me (if my pro is ice screws). When I rope solo, I use a Yates Rocker Rope Grab, but I don't think you can use it on thin ropes. Never used it on ice either. It has a little bit of slippage to it to ease the impact force. But, it has been discontinued for some reason. Are you going to lead or top rope? If you are top roping, definitely run a second knotted fixed line and clip into it for a backup. If you are leading with ice screws using a grigri with a toothed ascender as a backup, good luck!
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tradmanclimbs
Sep 27, 2007, 6:52 PM
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I was rope top rope soloing w a jumar about 1985 rope iced up and the jumar slipped right down the rope. I pushed it up over my head and it slid right back down. Free solo on ice is the ticket
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ryanb
Sep 27, 2007, 10:08 PM
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tradmanclimbs wrote: Tech cord gets weaker with repeted bending. Assume that would be a bad choice as a rap line?
Perhaps not the most durable, safest or cheapest but people do use it when weight matters that much to them. I usually end up with a friends half rope or a retired lead line for long raps but i'm poor.
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reno
Sep 28, 2007, 12:49 AM
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chedontsurf wrote: I'll be using a mammut Serenity or a Sterling Nano(is that out yet?) with a grigri. Do I need to back the grigri up with an ascender or something?
OK, I just HAVE to ask this:
Why on Earth would you be using a GriGri while ice climbing? There are much easier ways to injure yourself, guy.
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paintrain
Sep 28, 2007, 3:00 AM
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I agree with most. Use a petzl mini traction or petzl ascender since they have aggro teeth as ropes will ice up. Ditch the gri gri for ice climbing.
Use a hefty cord. It will make you stronger for carrying it.
PT
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tradmanclimbs
Sep 28, 2007, 11:35 AM
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I personaly don't believe in ropesoloing ice unless its a dire emergency. free solo is the standard common practice for ice and arguably safer INMOP
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pyramid
Sep 28, 2007, 2:57 PM
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You can't rope solo with a gri gri, you can toprope solo with one though. I do this quite often. The mini Traxion with get gunked up with new snow and fail, I know this from experience. If there is no new snow on the ice the Traxion works fine. I perfer to use no rope at all and just trust my skills, get alot more climbing done that way. But of course I prefer a partner, preferable a cute gal! 
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tradmanclimbs
Sep 28, 2007, 10:44 PM
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ICE CLIMBING+ GRI GRI = ?
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reno
Sep 29, 2007, 12:11 AM
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tradmanclimbs wrote: ICE CLIMBING+ GRI GRI = ?
Stupid.
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stymingersfink
Sep 29, 2007, 6:46 PM
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reno wrote: tradmanclimbs wrote: ICE CLIMBING+ GRI GRI = ? Stupid.
When I started ice climbing, I approached it in much the same manner as climbing rock, in that I was teaching myself the ropes so to speak. Roped soloing WI3 with a grigri, backed up by a clove hitch. Talk about a PITA. After the first few nights of doing this, I switched to double ropes. Too thin to run through a grigri, I ended up spending quite a bit of time adjusting clove hitches. By the end of the season I was grateful to be able to solo that WI3, even if a partner was available. I'd drag the ropes up, but only to facilitate a quick retreat or a rap off the top.
Use your leashes, make every placement a belay or be prepared to roll the dice. It'll be safer than trying to manage some CF at your waist, which nearly always ends up short-roping you in the middle of the crux or some other dicey icy.
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rockguide
Oct 2, 2007, 2:50 AM
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climb_eng wrote: pyramid wrote: You can't rope solo with a gri gri, you can toprope solo with one though. I do this quite often. The mini Traxion with get gunked up with new snow and fail, I know this from experience. If there is no new snow on the ice the Traxion works fine. I perfer to use no rope at all and just trust my skills, get alot more climbing done that way. But of course I prefer a partner, preferable a cute gal! What are you talking about? Lots of people rope solo with a gri-gri. It works better if it's modified, but is perfectly functional even in it's unmodified form.
You know people who have rope soloed with a gri gri on ice? Icy ropes?
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gobennyjo
Oct 2, 2007, 3:08 AM
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So now why did your name used to be I hate gri gir's
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climb_eng
Oct 2, 2007, 3:31 AM
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rockguide wrote: climb_eng wrote: pyramid wrote: You can't rope solo with a gri gri, you can toprope solo with one though. I do this quite often. The mini Traxion with get gunked up with new snow and fail, I know this from experience. If there is no new snow on the ice the Traxion works fine. I perfer to use no rope at all and just trust my skills, get alot more climbing done that way. But of course I prefer a partner, preferable a cute gal! What are you talking about? Lots of people rope solo with a gri-gri. It works better if it's modified, but is perfectly functional even in it's unmodified form. You know people who have rope soloed with a gri gri on ice? Icy ropes?
Oh... on ice. OOoooops, my bad. Sorry :(. No, Grigri is not good with icy or wet ropes. I should have read the post.
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skinner
Oct 2, 2007, 4:13 AM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
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This just sounds like a bad idea. I think even if the ropes were "dry'ish", just the little ice crystals and snow would collect in the gri-gri and not only would it be useless, but you'd probably fall trying to unfvck it.
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