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Myxomatosis
Oct 7, 2007, 11:30 PM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: Jun 12, 2007
Posts: 1063
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Heres a little trip report from my first trip away for the Summer 
After spending five days in bed with the flu, I wasn't in the best health leading up to the weekend but I wasn't going to stay home like a poof.
Me and my climbing partner Jamie "Are these my shoes?" meet up with our other two mates, "Crazy" Dave and Guy "I need a hair cut"  at the Servo on the main drag to Hamilton. After a 2 hour drive down in light speed we made it to "Bryce's" Cafe and Climbing shop 
First day we went down to Wharepapa aka Castle Crag. I can't remember the names of the climbs but we were down on the lower teir's. There is seven to eight 16-18 (5.9-5.10b) 20-25m sport climbs, great for warming up on.
None of us had any trouble of them, all of them were onsight'd (three each), just got down and dirty with them all Lots of fun on long 25m easy sport routes, great warm up morning.
After lunch we headed up to the Buttress with some harder climbs. Speedy Gonzalous 5.10b+ 20m was the aim. Guy was first up on lead, he had quite alot of trouble, the 1st clip was a cake walk but the 2nd clip was a real dog. Involved a couple of real punchy moves into a ledge, then clip. He failed.
While Guy and Dave were playing on Speedy, me and Jamie decided (well I had decided I wanted to fail on something for the weekend) so I decided to give "Strong Man for Jesus 5.10c" a go. Dave who had climbed it before wanted me to wait for him to clip the first clip as it was a real ball's to the wall one (Two three finger pocket moves on your left then committe across to small ledge below the clip then work your hands along and clip) . I gave the first crack to Jamie, just to see what he was made of (least experinced climber and first time outdoors) he gave up before even starting,,,, wimp!!
Anyway, I was up, breezed up to the first clip without mercy, only to find myself dog'n the gear to get the rope in, then the moves to the 2nd clip were a couple of nice long reach's to big ledges, easy peazy but then I over climbed the clip and ended up above it struggling to find a hold I could use to clip below myself, everything was positive. I then chucked in a heal hook, got even further past the clip and then got into the "oh shit, Im gonna need to down climb" thats when the fun really started, tried to move my hands down but got stuck, had to re-do my hook then unhook and a couple of quick ladder moves and "TAKE" jumped onto the first clip... damn that one scared me a little.... So I found my onsight level  , the moves weren't the problem, it was the clipping this time, so not to fussed, I could have reached the 3rd clip easy if I had gotten the 2nd.
While I was over there having the time of my life, Dave was over on Speedy (climb Guy was on before) creating new words for the Urban Dictionary Turns out the there is a 10m run out between the 2nd and 3rd clip then aother 7m to the 4th one.... "this one really did my head in, didnt remember it being that silly"... yeah so some creative bolting there from someone. Dave chucked up a top rope, I dont think I was in any mood to lead that after my fun on Jesus and Jamie wouldn't have been up to it. Guy had another crack, failed, Jamie had a go and got spanked all the way, then Guy felt a little annoyed that Jamie did it and had another go, finally he made it up!... so then down to me... Well they were saying how hard it was, but I didnt really have much trouble, could have probably lead it but wouldn't have enjoyed the long run outs, thats for sure
The end of the day we headed back around to the Lower Teir and worked on a couple more of those long 18-19s and even a 16. Good end to a full day of climbing  . Nothing much to report apart from Jamie failing his first climb, a 16-5.8... I was so proud for him, he learnt a big lesson. All because he missed a big massive jug. Guy lead it then we set up a T/R and Jamie breezed up it... swearing all the way... dumbass... By this time my flu was in full swing, wasn't in much mood for climbing, but still did the T/R...
So turn fast forward to Sunday we headed down to Froggat Edge and the climb I had been planning to do for the whole weekend, "Terror" but more on that later.
My health haddn't improved much and wasn't feeling the big "man I can't be arsed" but we just went up Slug Wall and played around on a couple of easy warm up routes, 5.9's. All onsighted again, no troubles here
Then moved down to Animal Biscuit Valley for "Moonbase Alpha 23m 5.9 and Bring Your Daught to the Slaughter 20m 5.10a+".
Jamie and guy played on a 5.9 for awhile but me and Dave headed down to try a 5.12a climb to try to do the start (one crux).. got thrown off onto the ground and rolled down the hill  yeah... little out of my league. So back up to Moonbase.
Managed to onsight it without much trouble, even tho feeling very weak. Jamie followed in the same fashion (thats him in the above picture)
Then Dave lead Bring Your Daughter as it's a real nice climb. Some awesome committing moves to jugs. He set up a top rope and let the rest of us have a crack on it for the first time. I loved it, two move start to a ledge, then a nice layback with dodge hand hold to another bomber jug (very committing move this one) then match and pump it up to another jug... thats followed by a section of 5.6... nice break and then back into an over hung head board with three committing moves to ledges with minmal hand holds in between... good foot work is a must.
Anyway, after we us other three had played around on the top rope we headed around to the main face to do Terror Incognito 5.10a 25m, my goal for the weekend. It was getting late in the day and my health wasn't 100% I still went thru with leading it. Dave was keen to set up a top rope on it but there was no way I was letting this one get away without at least a Red Point
This isn't my photo (as I was climbing) but it runs up the left side of the massive bookface, just to the left of centre in the photo, then follows across right a little to the line running all the way up the left side of the knob. 11 Clips and 25m's.... was doing this one for my original climbing partner Mike 
The first clip was a bit of fun... one of those real balance on nothing and get it but after that it all went smooth. Had quite a few rests at the clips but I had had the flu all week (good excuses aye?).
Started to feel the burn near the top with three clips to go but I just worked through it, one at a time, two to go. I could see it was easy for the last clip but there was some interesting laybacks would need to be done for the next clip tho. Looked down and thought "no way Ive come all this way to fail now!" started up the last little face, reached into a couple of side pulls to the left then bridge'd across and bam got the last clip... now to finish her off... stood up, snagged to jugs, then feet up, pushed up to the ledge and found it to be.... bomber... fully stoked... had a little tear in my eye 
Dave followed on lead as well, had some interesting things to say and then set up a T/R for Jamie and Guy. Well Guy bailed out and left it for Jamie... he had to push himself, he said once he got to the bottom there was scared on T/R and couldn't believe I just lead it.... yeah give me respect
Anyway... awesome weekend... Managed to get both of my goals, to fail and to get Terror, next time Ill have a go at leading Speedy, Bring Your Daughter and the one that thrashed me, Strong Man for Jesus.
Classic "Dumb" Moments: Dave forgetting his rope.. DOH!!!.... Jamie and Guy brought the same pair of shoes but 4 sizes different. Then Jamie climbing in Guy's pair while me and Guy sat at the bottom talking about how "Looks like he brought a size to big"....haha what a moron
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sbaclimber
Oct 8, 2007, 12:44 AM
Post #2 of 3
(992 views)
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
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Nice pics!
It looks so much nicer when it isn't raining. Makes me want to take another trip up there.
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