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duransportiva
Nov 19, 2007, 4:54 PM
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I went to Sandrock this past weekend with a couple of friends. I cleaned my first route. I did it without knowing how. I just used what I thought was common sense. Am I doing it right?
When I got to the top anchors, they had rings on them so I clipped a daisy chain from my belay belt to one ring. When I was clipped in, I undid my figure 8 and threaded the rope through the rings on the anchors. I tied a figure 8 and put it back on my harness. I took the daisy chain off and was lowered down by my belayer.
Also, when I was up there all I could think about was how I could get down if I accidentally dropped the rope. When I was untying the figure 8, I just lightly bit down on the rope to keep from dropping it. What do you guys do?
(This post was edited by duransportiva on Nov 19, 2007, 4:56 PM)
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generationfourth
Nov 19, 2007, 5:05 PM
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before you untie your own 8- tie an 8 on a bight and clip it to yourself.
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tuna
Nov 19, 2007, 5:06 PM
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Before you untie the rope from your harness
Pull up about 6 feet of rope make a simple overhand or figure eight knot then clip that to your leg loop or belay loop
Then untie the rope from your harness
I like to have two pieces attaching me to the rap rings but hey if you feel good about one daisy chain the rock on
Does that answer your question?
Another thing to consider when you might just take a chance on killing yourself is to ask questions before you put yourself in the situation
ciao
Santan
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wzrdgandalf
Nov 19, 2007, 5:07 PM
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You did it almost all right. There are a few things that you might want to change though.
1. Before you untie, pull some slack out from your climbing line and tie an overhand knot on a bite and clip it to a gear loop in your harness.
2. Dont Lower off the anchors, instead run your climbing line all the way through the rings so that both ends of your rope are on the ground. After you do that Rap down the route with an ATC or something else. This will keep from the anchors having to be replaced as quickly.
P.s. if you had dropped the rope, the onlyl way I can think of to get the rope back would be for you to hang out and wait for someone to climb a rope up to you.
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pro_alien
Nov 19, 2007, 8:54 PM
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If your rope is not maxed out, and the anchor rings are sufficiently large:
Pull a bight of rope through the anchor rings, make a figure 8 on it, attach with a locking biner to your belay loop. Then untie your normal tie-in and get lowered.
Quicker and no way to drop the rope.
If the locking biner & belay loop are good enough to belay my partner, they are certainly good enough to lower me off with.
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boku
Nov 19, 2007, 10:31 PM
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Heh, that exact same happened to me the first time I topped out at a chain anchor. My non-leading wife was belaying, and there I was with the rope in my fist thinking, if I were to drop this now I'd be uberNFBSK'd. Ever since I've clipped an overhand on a bight before untying. The bight-through-anchor-ring that another poster suggested is often a better option.
Here's a thing to watch for: If the rings are aluminum, they're rap rings made for rapping not lowering. I've seen such rings worn more than half way through by folks toproping and lowering through them. That's a tiny fraction of a square inch of cross-section from the very bad situation of having them worn all the way through.
My approach is to always look critically at whatever I'm lowering or rapping off of, and if practical to rap off instead of lowering. And to never if I can help it lower off of aluminum rap rings.
Bob "BoKu" K.
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desertwanderer81
Nov 20, 2007, 6:15 PM
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Yeah, everyone has it just about right so I'll just sumarise in a list!
A) Clip into two hangers with whatever you're clipping in with.
B) Clip the rope onto your harness with an overhand knot or clove hitch before you untie it from your harness.
C) Rap a route instead of being lowered off to save the rap rings/chains.
D) Always weight your rapelling device before you disconnect your personal protection.
E) Tie knots in the end of your rope so you don't rap off the ends.
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hsvclimber
Nov 20, 2007, 7:03 PM
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When you pull slack and make your figure eight on a bight, why would you ever clip it to your leg loop. Clip it to your belay loop...
The side benefit of an 8 with a locker through your belay loop, when you are just going to thread the anchors and lower is...
you can have your belayer keep you on belay the entire time... So if you do something stupid you would be caught by your last piece of pro...
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spikeddem
Nov 21, 2007, 9:00 AM
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hsvclimber wrote: When you pull slack and make your figure eight on a bight, why would you ever clip it to your leg loop. Clip it to your belay loop...
Rappelling.
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flint
Nov 21, 2007, 9:16 AM
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hsvclimber wrote: When you pull slack and make your figure eight on a bight, why would you ever clip it to your leg loop. Clip it to your belay loop... The side benefit of an 8 with a locker through your belay loop, when you are just going to thread the anchors and lower is... you can have your belayer keep you on belay the entire time... So if you do something stupid you would be caught by your last piece of pro...
Well, that is unless you have cleaned the route completely, and you shouldn't lower, always rap if possible.
j-
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Toerag
Nov 21, 2007, 10:59 AM
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This is sport climbing we are talking about right? You clip in to the top pull rope through the bolts tie fig 8 clip it to you with screw gate lower off.. you dont need to tie a knot in the end nor do you rap down the route, if you are worried about wear and tear of the lower off then use Mailons like the rest of the world do. point is what ever you do make sure the guy holding the rope knows what you are doing as if he thinks you are rapping are you think he is lowering you'll be dead !
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jt512
Nov 21, 2007, 4:01 PM
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Toerag wrote: This is sport climbing we are talking about right? You clip in to the top pull rope through the bolts tie fig 8 clip it to you with screw gate lower off..
In the US, sport anchors are often chains or closed cold shuts that are too small to accommodate a bight of rope, hence the need to untie, thread the anchor, and re-tie in. I agree, though, that at most crags the idea of rapping to "save" the anchors is a bit silly.
Jay
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CaptainPolution
Nov 22, 2007, 9:49 PM
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I rarely rap off any sport route. ill put up draws till the last one is done climbing but I always lower off that shit. We replace anchors in this neck of the woods so it's not important
(This post was edited by CaptainPolution on Nov 22, 2007, 9:50 PM)
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ja1484
Nov 22, 2007, 9:59 PM
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CaptainPolution wrote: I rarely rap off any sport route. ill put up draws till the last one is done climbing but I always lower off that shit. We replace anchors in this neck of the woods so it's not important
As stated, it depends on the neck, and even then, sometimes it depends on the climb.
I distinctly remember rapping off Springer at the New River Gorge last year, hanging from shuts that were worn about halfway through their barstock. Sketchums.
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